I cannot thank you enough for doing this. I was hesitant about doing this but took my time and it all worked as you described in the video on my 2019 Kawasaki 310 with 105 hours. It actually was not that bad.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. Yes, don’t let the engine come too far forward or you will be singing the blues. I left the duct from the air box and the water cooling likes attached- the lines have enough slack and the air box duct kinda compresses just enough to get the engine forward enough to swap the belt.
JD the next time you replace the supercharger belt , take the new one and soak, completely submerge the new belt for 1 hr in a product called 303 aerospace protectant. the 303 is a little expensive, but damn well the cost to get 10X the life out of supercharger belts or any serpentine or v belts. this was shared info for the C6 ZR1 corvette supercharger and serpentine belts. this works and will fix these frequent changes. I just picked up the 2023 310 ultra LX-S last ski was a 19 GP1800R SVHO. I like the LX-S, don't know why Kevin is dissin on it so hard ??? I actually wanted all the options except the stereo so the LX-s was exactly what I wanted in the Jet Ski. thanks for the effort your putting into this channel, your conveying a ton of quality information about our ski's on your channel. thanks again for what you do.
Thanks for that tip Tommy! I use copious amounts of 303 on my seat, all the black plastic, on vinyl furniture, my boat, my RV tires, and on and on..great product but never considered putting it on the belt. And I 100% agree that I love the LX-S . I specially ordered this ski in October of 2021 a day after it was announced. I hate stereos..and was thrilled that the LX-s gives you flagship features without the stereo. I have long legs and love the extra footwell space so glad to hear I’m not the only one. Not sure why Kevin dislikes it but his opinion is his opinion..if anyone is confused about the demographic for the LX-S..they haven’t watched my channel. I’m the demographic. Lol
Wow, more involved than I realized from your belt tensioner/maintenance video. I may wind up not doing this myself if I can’t talk myself into it 😂. I’m overdue at 111 hours.
Thanks for watching, I appreciate you supporting my channel! I don’t think there’s another Kawasaki belt removal tutorial, so hopefully this will be helpful for anyone attempting to do their own work!
Catalystic exhaust filter will lead to ring/pistons heat damage. When the engine is at full throttle the fireball where all the exhaust ports combine is right in front of the exhaust filter. Suggestion - put the spacer back in to replace the filter, and move that fireball further away from the pistons. Noisey exhaust is a side effect, but be respectful to others, and add to the performance of your 1500F. Cheers 🍻
I don’t know if you’ve watched any of my other videos, but I do not run an exhaust filter any longer. I have the KP bypass plate in there and love it. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
That does look involved , but manageable. Was it difficult to get the shaft aligned to move the motor back in place? How much time did it take you? You have some great mechanical skills JD! Someone need to make a higher quality exhaust filter!!!! As always, thanks so much for posting these videos !
Thanks man! Not shown on the video, but while I used the one piece of wood in the front, I used the other one at the back to budge the engine back into place and to line things up. The coupler does slide back together pretty easily
I’ve heard of people doing this..not a bad idea and could save you a ton of time. I wonder where specifically it can be zip tied? Up on the carrier bearing maybe.
With normal duty the belt should last about 100 hours- check it every 10 hours though to look for wear - that’s from the manual. If you have the plastic belt shroud on it makes it more difficult to check the belt..if you start seeing an excessive amount of black soot in your bilge or are having performance issues probably time to check and replace the belt
Great illustration & information JD. Thanks for sharing. Take a wow guess on how many hours we put on Gina’s 16 Kawi 310R before the belt gave away? Billy D
You do realize that only a handful of skis had this issue, yet the forum trolls blew it out of proportion. All affected units were repaired under recall / warranty more than 5 years ago. The Yamaha 1.8L engine has a current issue with heads cracking..I was emailed about a brand new FX SVHO with milky oil from a cracked head with less than 20 hours...
@@JDsWaterWorld Yeah I just need to get off the internet, trolls ruin it I swear, lol. I talked to the owner of Kawi performance in NY been doing this 20 years, in '14 and up Kawi used a better but more brittle piston for the 310's so some are failing as he said to replace them with "forged" pistons sooner than later if you can.. My '14 310x only has 68 hours never a day's problem so I'm contemplating replacing them or just leaving it alone and enjoy life it's 50/50 right now.. Although Mama used to say if it ain't broke don't fix it!!. Problem is there aren't that many Kawasaki dealers out here to do that work because the engine has to be pulled out and timed right afterwards.. He said even up to The 23's are still using the same exact pistons but because the tunes are better on the new ones failures are way less prominent because of pre detonation issues....NOW is he full of sh** and totally off about everything??...Who knows but I'm a scaard 😱
My 2017 is just at about 100 hours so I'm preparing to taken this on over the winter. Thanks for the great video. The maintenance schedule lists that the damper coupling should be inspected/replaced at 100 hours. Since it's mostly exposed when doing the belt, I figured I'd do it at the same time, but it looks like you would not be able to remove it without sliding the engine further forward such that it no longer sits on the mounts (i.e. you'd need an engine hoist). Thoughts on this? Did you inspect the rubber damper in the engine/driveshaft coupling?
You can get the coupler out easier if you remove the jet pump as well at the same time- let’s you slide the coupler back a bit more…yes definitely inspect the puck and at 100 hrs you might as well just replace it. I checked mine and it was fine. Check your driveline carrier bearing as well- guys chasing every last mph need to keep that bearing fresh..ive seen that bearing last 25 years lol it’s the same part number as my 1998 STX1100..of course you must get a special coupler tool and have a second set of hands to help
I recently bought a used Ultra 310 and the OEM supercharger belt cover is missing. I am wondering if this cover prevents the belts from getting wet and slipping? I am experiencing bogging down at WOT, I have changed spark plugs and fuel pump, checked all hoses but cant find the issue. thinking maybe the belts are slipping? possibly a throttle body issue as it does fine when rolling onto the throttle, but not punching it.
The cover missing would not cause that issue...have you ever greased the pivot bushing? The carrier bearing or a hose could be leaking causing water to spray onto the belt..
@@JDsWaterWorld I have not greased the bushing, I will try that. it has a brand new supercharger and pulleys from the dealership so I would think it would be greased but who knows. thanks for the reply!!
Why does it have a new supercharger and pulleys? Doubtful the dealership did it...believe it or not the bushing comes dry from the factory. You will also probably want to check the fuel pressure and filter screen...
@@JDsWaterWorld I dont know, it was done by the previous owner shortly before I bought it. I will definitely grease the bearing. it makes full boost / RPM until 30mph then bogs down, thinking it may be over boosting as it has a BOV delete plate. I also found a crimp in the SRV vacuum line. I just changed the fuel pump and fuel filter and confirmed all injectors are firing, not sure how to test the fuel pressure though. gonna order a code reader as well
Awesome. Original belt? I’ve seen belts last a few hundred hours in fresh water..I’m on belt 2 but only because I kept changing pulleys and my stock pulley rusted and ate my first belt
@JDsWaterWorld original belt...just did an oil change (Amsoil 10W-40). As much as I like the new 310s I can't bring myself to sell her for $5k or whatever and spend $17k on a new one
Nah yours is a tank- the electronics and pretty much every component are proven reliable. The KSRD makes docking and maneuvering a breeze, and the narrower adjustable seat is a game changer for ergonomics, but other than that it’s the same ski
Not sure if it is easier but can you pull the pump and slide the driveshaft back enough? Was thinking you could maybe pull the pump leaving reduction nozzle on. I know older 2 strokes had room to slide drive shaft back enough to put a belt through the gap.
As I look closer at your video, not sure that would slide back enough. That bites on the filter. Kawi Performance says deleting it is safe if you blow the water out post ride.
Good point, I have no clue. I would hope that if it could be done that way the service manual would convey the info. I am going to say probably not, but I have not personally tried it so who knows.
Does the supercharger require oil to be changed inside of the actual unit or does the ski engine oil get into the charger as well? Or is fogging the supercharger enough for lubrication? Please explain. I just bought a 23 ultra 310. I understand everything about this ski and maintenance just not the supercharger oil component.. thank you
The supercharger has its own gear box and oil bath that does not require service unless the unit is being rebuilt- it’s sealed and service free. The fogging keeps the rotors and casings free from corrosion and mineral build up
Great video! Im afraid I will have to do this procedure for my 2011 Ultra 300. It will not go past 40mph as it stumbles & bogs , boost cannot climb. There is evidence of soot in the hull. When I put by finger on the belt tensioner idler wheel I can turn it. Does that mean loose belt?
Definitely sounds like a worn belt. Check all your hoses and clamps as well and make sure the BOV and relief valve are not seized up..you should not be able to move the idler wheel. Your idler assembly and spring could be worn out as well…
I buy them from various sources- search the part number on Ebay and sometimes you can find various dealers selling them at a discount. Never buy a used belt. It is cheaper for me to order belts from Japan than it is to drive down to my dealer and buy them
Well I have only used OEM because I would hate to go through all the trouble to change it and then have an aftermarket one snap or something. I am told the factory ones are Kevlar reinforced or something similar and that's why they are so expensive. Typically the cost is between $74 and $80. Last time I ordered I bought 5 and paid $65 each from a Japanese powersports guy that sells on eBay
Yeah second one failed after 35 hours, first one failed after 50 hours. The maintenance interval is 50 hours…. But yes seems that we need a stainless steel exhaust filter.
Does seem to be premature, we’re riding in pretty salty areas as well. 80% of the time salt/brackish waterways for us. We do make it to Florida 10+ times throughout the year. We do flush out the exhaust after picking up at the launch like 10 - 15 seconds maybe longer if that’s what it takes to get the water out of the waterbox’s. First exhaust filter was changed/intact at 174 hrs. Second was around slightly over that around 184 hrs (358hrs) it was gone! Double/triple checked & pulled both waterbox’s. No wheres to be found. Next time was at 198hrs (551hrs on dash) this time it was broken loose and lodged thankfully. I’m personally going to say on my end I will plan every 150hrs now with that data I collect. But like always follow your manufacturers recommendations for all maintenance and service. Billy D
I ask with all respect JD, must the engine really need to be moved back. Or is there another way? I really want to not "go that route" Thanks for the info and video.
Haha yes, there is no way to change the belt without sliding the engine out of the way. It’s really not that difficult to do once you get the hang of it!
Yeah the filter does not hold up very well..mine is bypassed now, I’m done with it..I will be doing a video on making your own bypass spacer from the old filter lol
@@JDsWaterWorld not for nothing but if I designed a ski the upper engine compartment would be removable, with a bolt on oringed upper section that could be removed for full access to the engine.
I cannot thank you enough for doing this. I was hesitant about doing this but took my time and it all worked as you described in the video on my 2019 Kawasaki 310 with 105 hours. It actually was not that bad.
Thanks for the comment! Glad my video was helpful! And agreed, It’s really not bad once you get the hang of it!
Great video and excellent step by step very helpful. Also, great that you mentioned not to let the engine come off the mounts.
Thank you
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. Yes, don’t let the engine come too far forward or you will be singing the blues. I left the duct from the air box and the water cooling likes attached- the lines have enough slack and the air box duct kinda compresses just enough to get the engine forward enough to swap the belt.
JD the next time you replace the supercharger belt , take the new one and soak, completely submerge the new belt for 1 hr in a product called 303 aerospace protectant. the 303 is a little expensive, but damn well the cost to get 10X the life out of supercharger belts or any serpentine or v belts. this was shared info for the C6 ZR1 corvette supercharger and serpentine belts. this works and will fix these frequent changes. I just picked up the 2023 310 ultra LX-S last ski was a 19 GP1800R SVHO. I like the LX-S, don't know why Kevin is dissin on it so hard ??? I actually wanted all the options except the stereo so the LX-s was exactly what I wanted in the Jet Ski. thanks for the effort your putting into this channel, your conveying a ton of quality information about our ski's on your channel. thanks again for what you do.
Thanks for that tip Tommy! I use copious amounts of 303 on my seat, all the black plastic, on vinyl furniture, my boat, my RV tires, and on and on..great product but never considered putting it on the belt. And I 100% agree that I love the LX-S . I specially ordered this ski in October of 2021 a day after it was announced. I hate stereos..and was thrilled that the LX-s gives you flagship features without the stereo. I have long legs and love the extra footwell space so glad to hear I’m not the only one. Not sure why Kevin dislikes it but his opinion is his opinion..if anyone is confused about the demographic for the LX-S..they haven’t watched my channel. I’m the demographic. Lol
Ahh no need to thank me, thank you for watching. I’m just a random guy with a GoPro and a Jetski 🤣
That's a lot of work to replace a belt. Really detailed video JD!
I’m getting the belt back on the tensioner can be a pain too
Wow, more involved than I realized from your belt tensioner/maintenance video. I may wind up not doing this myself if I can’t talk myself into it 😂. I’m overdue at 111 hours.
It's a fairly overwhelming task but once you do it once or twice it become pretty easy
@@JDsWaterWorldI’ve re watched the video and decided I can do it myself 👍🏽 I plan to get at it after the rainy weekend. Thanks for the video!!
Cheers mate, another great informative and easy to follow vid. 👍
Thanks for watching, I appreciate you supporting my channel! I don’t think there’s another Kawasaki belt removal tutorial, so hopefully this will be helpful for anyone attempting to do their own work!
Catalystic exhaust filter will lead to ring/pistons heat damage. When the engine is at full throttle the fireball where all the exhaust ports combine is right in front of the exhaust filter.
Suggestion - put the spacer back in to replace the filter, and move that fireball further away from the pistons. Noisey exhaust is a side effect, but be respectful to others, and add to the performance of your 1500F.
Cheers 🍻
I don’t know if you’ve watched any of my other videos, but I do not run an exhaust filter any longer. I have the KP bypass plate in there and love it. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
Great video, very informative thank you
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
Thank you JD. I just bought a 2016 310 lx. I have to pull the motor and change pistons. Yep, fun fun fun. Peace.
If you have to change the pistons - get a set of forged ones from Kawi Performance
@@JDsWaterWorld ...Thank you JD. I have spoken to Kawi Performance. I will indeed get a set of forged pistons and send him the cylinders for honing.
@@JDsWaterWorld ...Your videos are great. Peace.
That does look involved , but manageable. Was it difficult to get the shaft aligned to move the motor back in place? How much time did it take you? You have some great mechanical skills JD!
Someone need to make a higher quality exhaust filter!!!! As always, thanks so much for posting these videos !
Thanks man! Not shown on the video, but while I used the one piece of wood in the front, I used the other one at the back to budge the engine back into place and to line things up. The coupler does slide back together pretty easily
The belt change, not including intercooler removal, took me about 2/3 hours
@@JDsWaterWorld Thanks JD!
I’ve heard of people doing this..not a bad idea and could save you a ton of time. I wonder where specifically it can be zip tied? Up on the carrier bearing maybe.
@@JDsWaterWorld This would be a great idea if it is possible.
Hi JD
I put two belts there , I cable tie one and fit the other
Yes, I have heard of quite a few people doing that - great way to save time
Do i need to change the belt? At what interval JD? I use my pwc in rough saltwater enviroment. Offshore mostly
With normal duty the belt should last about 100 hours- check it every 10 hours though to look for wear - that’s from the manual. If you have the plastic belt shroud on it makes it more difficult to check the belt..if you start seeing an excessive amount of black soot in your bilge or are having performance issues probably time to check and replace the belt
Great illustration & information JD. Thanks for sharing. Take a wow guess on how many hours we put on Gina’s 16 Kawi 310R before the belt gave away?
Billy D
Im sure its some crazy high number? 250hrs?
@@JDsWaterWorld Your a little warm! 😜
Billy any piston issues on your '16?...
You do realize that only a handful of skis had this issue, yet the forum trolls blew it out of proportion. All affected units were repaired under recall / warranty more than 5 years ago. The Yamaha 1.8L engine has a current issue with heads cracking..I was emailed about a brand new FX SVHO with milky oil from a cracked head with less than 20 hours...
@@JDsWaterWorld Yeah I just need to get off the internet, trolls ruin it I swear, lol. I talked to the owner of Kawi performance in NY been doing this 20 years, in '14 and up Kawi used a better but more brittle piston for the 310's so some are failing as he said to replace them with "forged" pistons sooner than later if you can.. My '14 310x only has 68 hours never a day's problem so I'm contemplating replacing them or just leaving it alone and enjoy life it's 50/50 right now.. Although Mama used to say if it ain't broke don't fix it!!. Problem is there aren't that many Kawasaki dealers out here to do that work because the engine has to be pulled out and timed right afterwards.. He said even up to The 23's are still using the same exact pistons but because the tunes are better on the new ones failures are way less prominent because of pre detonation issues....NOW is he full of sh** and totally off about everything??...Who knows but I'm a scaard 😱
My 2017 is just at about 100 hours so I'm preparing to taken this on over the winter. Thanks for the great video. The maintenance schedule lists that the damper coupling should be inspected/replaced at 100 hours. Since it's mostly exposed when doing the belt, I figured I'd do it at the same time, but it looks like you would not be able to remove it without sliding the engine further forward such that it no longer sits on the mounts (i.e. you'd need an engine hoist). Thoughts on this? Did you inspect the rubber damper in the engine/driveshaft coupling?
You can get the coupler out easier if you remove the jet pump as well at the same time- let’s you slide the coupler back a bit more…yes definitely inspect the puck and at 100 hrs you might as well just replace it. I checked mine and it was fine. Check your driveline carrier bearing as well- guys chasing every last mph need to keep that bearing fresh..ive seen that bearing last 25 years lol it’s the same part number as my 1998 STX1100..of course you must get a special coupler tool and have a second set of hands to help
I recently bought a used Ultra 310 and the OEM supercharger belt cover is missing. I am wondering if this cover prevents the belts from getting wet and slipping? I am experiencing bogging down at WOT, I have changed spark plugs and fuel pump, checked all hoses but cant find the issue. thinking maybe the belts are slipping? possibly a throttle body issue as it does fine when rolling onto the throttle, but not punching it.
The cover missing would not cause that issue...have you ever greased the pivot bushing? The carrier bearing or a hose could be leaking causing water to spray onto the belt..
@@JDsWaterWorld I have not greased the bushing, I will try that. it has a brand new supercharger and pulleys from the dealership so I would think it would be greased but who knows. thanks for the reply!!
Why does it have a new supercharger and pulleys? Doubtful the dealership did it...believe it or not the bushing comes dry from the factory. You will also probably want to check the fuel pressure and filter screen...
@@JDsWaterWorld I dont know, it was done by the previous owner shortly before I bought it. I will definitely grease the bearing. it makes full boost / RPM until 30mph then bogs down, thinking it may be over boosting as it has a BOV delete plate. I also found a crimp in the SRV vacuum line. I just changed the fuel pump and fuel filter and confirmed all injectors are firing, not sure how to test the fuel pressure though. gonna order a code reader as well
2011 still running like a top...72 yesterday on GPS
Awesome. Original belt? I’ve seen belts last a few hundred hours in fresh water..I’m on belt 2 but only because I kept changing pulleys and my stock pulley rusted and ate my first belt
@JDsWaterWorld original belt...just did an oil change (Amsoil 10W-40). As much as I like the new 310s I can't bring myself to sell her for $5k or whatever and spend $17k on a new one
Nah yours is a tank- the electronics and pretty much every component are proven reliable. The KSRD makes docking and maneuvering a breeze, and the narrower adjustable seat is a game changer for ergonomics, but other than that it’s the same ski
@@JDsWaterWorld how much is an ECU flash on the new generation?
Not sure if it is easier but can you pull the pump and slide the driveshaft back enough? Was thinking you could maybe pull the pump leaving reduction nozzle on. I know older 2 strokes had room to slide drive shaft back enough to put a belt through the gap.
As I look closer at your video, not sure that would slide back enough. That bites on the filter. Kawi Performance says deleting it is safe if you blow the water out post ride.
Good point, I have no clue. I would hope that if it could be done that way the service manual would convey the info. I am going to say probably not, but I have not personally tried it so who knows.
If the belt break while riding, is the ski dead on the water, or can it ride back to the dock?
No, you can return to the dock at about 10 mph max. The ski will run at idle speed with no belt attached.
@@JDsWaterWorld Thank you.
Does the supercharger require oil to be changed inside of the actual unit or does the ski engine oil get into the charger as well? Or is fogging the supercharger enough for lubrication? Please explain. I just bought a 23 ultra 310. I understand everything about this ski and maintenance just not the supercharger oil component.. thank you
The supercharger has its own gear box and oil bath that does not require service unless the unit is being rebuilt- it’s sealed and service free. The fogging keeps the rotors and casings free from corrosion and mineral build up
Great video! Im afraid I will have to do this procedure for my 2011 Ultra 300. It will not go past 40mph as it stumbles & bogs , boost cannot climb. There is evidence of soot in the hull. When I put by finger on the belt tensioner idler wheel I can turn it. Does that mean loose belt?
Definitely sounds like a worn belt. Check all your hoses and clamps as well and make sure the BOV and relief valve are not seized up..you should not be able to move the idler wheel. Your idler assembly and spring could be worn out as well…
Thank you so much!
@@JDsWaterWorld
JD's Where did you get your Kawi belt from ?
I buy them from various sources- search the part number on Ebay and sometimes you can find various dealers selling them at a discount. Never buy a used belt. It is cheaper for me to order belts from Japan than it is to drive down to my dealer and buy them
@@JDsWaterWorld you mentioned $8 a pop, so I wonder where can I get one for $8 a pop 😊
lol I probably said $80 did I actually say $8 on the video??
@@JDsWaterWorld I heard 8, maybe you did or I didn’t fully get it, btw, any pro/cons if not using OEM belt? Yes/No ?
Well I have only used OEM because I would hate to go through all the trouble to change it and then have an aftermarket one snap or something. I am told the factory ones are Kevlar reinforced or something similar and that's why they are so expensive. Typically the cost is between $74 and $80. Last time I ordered I bought 5 and paid $65 each from a Japanese powersports guy that sells on eBay
The exhaust filter failing a second time, let alone after such a short time is a bit of a concern.
Yeah second one failed after 35 hours, first one failed after 50 hours. The maintenance interval is 50 hours…. But yes seems that we need a stainless steel exhaust filter.
@@JDsWaterWorld compltely agree!!!!
Does seem to be premature, we’re riding in pretty salty areas as well. 80% of the time salt/brackish waterways for us. We do make it to Florida 10+ times throughout the year. We do flush out the exhaust after picking up at the launch like 10 - 15 seconds maybe longer if that’s what it takes to get the water out of the waterbox’s. First exhaust filter was changed/intact at 174 hrs. Second was around slightly over that around 184 hrs (358hrs) it was gone! Double/triple checked & pulled both waterbox’s. No wheres to be found. Next time was at 198hrs (551hrs on dash) this time it was broken loose and lodged thankfully. I’m personally going to say on my end I will plan every 150hrs now with that data I collect. But like always follow your manufacturers recommendations for all maintenance and service.
Billy D
Are you at about 85 hours on the ski/belt?
Yes, I think it’s 87 hours or there about. Soon I will have to do a valve adjustment on the ski when it hits 100!
@JD’s WaterWorld what is the time you should change the belt?
Dang mane ! What a pain in the ass.
I ask with all respect JD, must the engine really need to be moved back. Or is there another way? I really want to not "go that route" Thanks for the info and video.
I see the shaft is in the way. ugh I think the answer is NO
Haha yes, there is no way to change the belt without sliding the engine out of the way. It’s really not that difficult to do once you get the hang of it!
Man this Maintenance sucks im dreading having to do this one.
I have No fucking idea why they don't put 4 welds instead or 2 on the filters.
Yeah the filter does not hold up very well..mine is bypassed now, I’m done with it..I will be doing a video on making your own bypass spacer from the old filter lol
@JD’s WaterWorld lol mine buybassed on its own at 48 hrs on one of my skis. What did u have like 29hrs on the new one?
Yeah I think 35 I have to check the log. You know the new ones have a stopper peg that stops the filter from going down into the waterbox?
@JD’s WaterWorld no I didn't know that so what happened to mine. I thought it just went into water box and the salt made dinner out of it.
I get a headache just watching this 😢
Haha it’s a bit overwhelming if you haven’t done it before!
@@JDsWaterWorld not for nothing but if I designed a ski the upper engine compartment would be removable, with a bolt on oringed upper section that could be removed for full access to the engine.
Yeah they definitely did not have “ease of maintenance” as an item on their checklist when designing this ski