EP40 - Big OIL LEAK & Changing my MAINSHEET Blocks
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- čas přidán 9. 03. 2024
- In this episode I discover a huge oil leak in my Yanmar diesel engine then my duaghter Aurora helps me change out my mainsheet blocks. After that we go for a sunset cruise on the Pacific here in Long Beach, CA.
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Hey Andy, great video … as always! Great idea on using the dremel to clean the thru-hulls. The deposits are copper sulphate, caused by the interaction of sodium in the salt air with the bronze (an alloy that is typically 88% Cu and 12% Zn). The green patina (aka verdigris) can actually be beneficial in sealing the outer layer, although some may argue that point. It can also be removed with vinegar and a wire brush. The only time to worry about it is if, upon removal, you find a pinkish coloration underneath, which indicates galvanic corrosion. Ok, thanks for allowing my inner nerd to get out for a stroll … James
Thanks James. Your inner nerd is most welcome on this here channel. 👍🏼😂
I appreciate the fun facts. I’m into it. Maybe I’ll let the patina stay hmmm…
At 5:55 the corrosion occurs on any exposed metal, especially in a humid environment. Use citric acid you buy in any food store to mix with warm water. It desolves corrosion/rust from any metal. Also good for wiping rust stains off of your fiberglass hull.
Oh Andy, oil in the bilge nasty and messy. at least you were in the harbor instead of out there. The deposits are probably electrolytic corrosion. Good job on the upgrades, I assume you bought hardware from Garhauer Marine. Mahalo.
Hi there Bob, I was lucky to be close to my slip when I discovered the oil leak.
I got the Garhauer hardware on CatalinaDirect.com. Cheers! 🤙🏼
Hi Andy, I think your old mainsheet setup was more the exception than what is most often done. I remember one of your past videos showing the mainsheet leading straight from the lower sheave of the fiddle block (on the Fico traveller car) to the forward deck-mounted turning block at the partners. Having it go back up to the boom after the traveller increases what the mechanical advantage was but either way is acceptable. You don't "think that's the way it's supposed to go", but the way it's supposed to go is what works, and that does.
As the sheet goes from the front boom block to the triple traveller block, we usually try to go through the center shiv first, but your version looks better. The aft boom block is just taking it from one side of the triple to the other side, and it Works.
Theoretically, your old setup was 6:1, and your new setup, with 3 shivs available on the traveller block, is 7:1. Because of friction etc it's only theoretical, but it's the best way to describe and compare the two versions. The thing that always seems to interfere with leading the sheet forward is the vang setup. Your old system was at least as clean as this one in that regard bc it stayed below the vang blocks.
In light air you may find that your traveller block might flop off to one side, and the way we prevent that is usually a short length of marine exhaust hose (1-5/8" dia for example) that goes around the D shackle, and holds the block upright all the time. You don't need to split the hose; it will be whatever length fits in that gap between the traveller car and the tube frame of the block. Drill a 5/16 hole in the side of the hose right where the pin screws into the shackle.
You could also just wrap a bunch of tape around the D shackle and when I do that I make the first layers of tape backwards (sticky side out), then more wraps the normal way over the sticky turns, and then sew a little leather over the tape. The leather should be oversize to account for how much it will shrink from exposure. Making the first tape wraps backwards means there will be no adhesive residue on the parts when you change it again. This is not a great place for self-amalgamating tape, it doesn't have the "structure" needed.
It's ok to take a sanding disc to the D shackle and carve the shackle bight to fit your traveller car clevis. After sanding (much preferred vs Grinding it) the shackle to shape, passivate it by soaking it in a quart bucket of ospho overnight. Ospho is also very good to brush onto the engine parts (rinse/dry) before priming. I actually use Ospho to etch aluminum too prior to painting. There are many times using it has allowed me to paint without using a separate primer. Yes, I know that it's not the gucci way to etch, but it works better than you'd think. I use as much or more ACE / Rustoleum spray paint as the marine stuff.
Bilges, and the nasty sticky exposed inside surface of hulls (unsealed laminating resin like in old Cals): I don't paint those surfaces. I use 105/209 with enough hi density filler to color it (a white-beige) and "stretch" it a bit more, but not enough hi density to make it not pour or self-level. That's it, no sanding or painting, done in one step. If you want, add a few drops of universal colorant. After it cures (4+ days), scrub the blush with soap and water. Been pouring this mix onto old drawer bottoms (for example) for decades, inside AND out. No paint needed, not for direct sunlight (needs paint to stand sunlight). I always de-grease these surfaces with Petroleum Distillate Paint Thinner, scrubbed on with a wire brush, then washed with soap/ water/ rinsed, dried with alcohol.
This is not what everybody does, this is what works for Me. I don't really care for Colloidal silica bc it seems to be hydrophyllic.
Not sure you realized it, but filling the gap between the cabin shell and the Liner, when you installed the Head portlight, was Brilliant. I use a lot of Big Stretch on those, Never 52million.
Hope you're well, all the best to you, Misty and Aroura!
Thank You
Marty strikes again!!! 🙌🏼
You sir are too smart with this boat nerd stuff. You are on a whole other level of knowledge that I hope to have one day.
I’ll read this a few lore times and hope to retain a couple nuggets of info.
…I figured to use something flexible when I filled the gap in the port lights. It seemed logical and I try to stay away from 52million at all costs in most projects.
Thanks for chiming in.
Looking forward to hearing from you next time.
Cheers!
Andy
another great video dude!
i actually have a fuel leak in my SUV so i decided to try to fix it before starting my trip up to your area. it ended up coming from the fuel tank itself, and i was thinking i needed to replace the whole tank, but fortunately i should be able to seal the leak with some adhesive that's made for oil and fuel tanks, so it's gonna save me like $600, which is around what i planned on spending on the trip there, so big win
Thanks! 🤙🏼
Right on! A penny saved is a penny earned right?!
There has been no announcement for the auction yet and I called last week and they said no plans yet. If I were you I’d get in touch with the Shoreline Marina office if the auction is a critical stop on your trip. 🤙🏼
@@sailingsole ya, ill give them a call, it's 1 of the main reasons i wanted to go there. but maybe ill still go camping there for a month and do a bunch of fishing. i mean, there are so many free piers and jetties there that you are allowed to fish from with no license, and maybe ill rent a boat and go fishing with my uncle in San Diego for a day, and i have friends in and around LA.
i'm thinking ill be going even if they don't have the auction, because a good adventure is really what i'm after
Great video as usual Andy.
Thanks Ricardo Monte bon 🤣
@@sailingsole real funny Toe Moss!😝
This could go on for a while bro! 😂
@@sailingsole Yes it could.😜
Oil leaks are a pain no matter what kind of engine!
That one caught me by surprise. I’m glad it was a relatively easy fix.
@@sailingsole It had me wondering if you could put a zinc washer on the corroded stud and another nut behind it.
@@sailingsole You had a lot going on.
When I was young I was taught that every machine, no mather complicated it is nothing more than a series of simpler, smaller machines. If you look at the big complicated machine it can be overwhelming but if you look for the smaller machine with the actuall problem it is almost always an easier fix.
It looks like it is always light out there with all the light pollution. How far out I wonder do you have to go to really see the stars?
Our best local destination is Catalina Island, it’s ~26nm away and you can absolutely see the stars. But I’m sure you only have to be 5-10 miles offshore. Personally I welcome the light when I’m in the harbor or not too far offshore because there are a lot of obstructions.
I Love those lights, they remind me of when I worked (for owners) at Cal Ship, Todd and of course, Al Larson's in the 70's.
Do you go to Minnyes in Newport for parts? Tons of sailboat items
Oh yeah, absolutely. Minneys is one of my favorite spots. 🤙🏼
Does your engine have reverse?
Yes it has reverse. 🤙🏼
What size engine is it?
Yanmar 2GM-20. I think it has 16hp.
Exhaust elbow leaked what? Oil? Water?
The elbow leaked water out. I fixed the elbow a long time ago and d I didn’t have any footage of that.
@@sailingsole Thanks…that explains the RUST.