BMW R1100GS head removal Part 1 Project GS continues /
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- čas přidán 15. 02. 2024
- Well well. You think it is all finished and then this happens!!! Some projects are destined NEVER to be finished. Project GS is one of them I think. It looks as if there will always be something that needs attention. Have you ever had a vehicle like this? As soon as you get rid of it the buyer says it is the best vehicle they have ever had!! Bizarre. I am going to keep going with this baby, I am sure there are more things that it will throw up into the mix to test my skill and patience.
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Happy riding - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks, from Brazil
Great to hear from you
Thanks
Many thanks. Let me know if there is anything you need help with. If I can help I always will.
I’m currently doing the same job to my 2002 R1150GS - exhaust stud seized/snapped off
Hi, yes, they always snap off. Look at the R1100RT that I restored, all 6 snapped. I did a video on drilling them out and re-tapping them. You have to be careful when drilling the one that is broken on my engine as that one goes into the oil feed to the head gear. That is what has happened on this engine. I am lucky as the head that I have is almost new. Fantastic.
Nice job, i really wanted to see the valve stem rubbers. : )
It seams you can or someone has used the cyl. heads and even with "doppel zunding" from the R1150 engines.
Also from what i discovored, the R1100 engines from '98 onward have an improved oil cooling system where the oil heats up faster, it's a different engine house casting.
Yes you can use the twin spark heads if you get the stick coils and wiring etc. Quite easy to do though. Yes, from 1998 the way the engine breaths was made differently. The only problem was the later engines use oil, whereas the early ones don't use a drop.
Hi, I will show the valve stem seals being removed in part 2 for you
Not that i want "twin spark", but the valve covers are a bit prettier shaped. mine are painted by hand and are a bit ugly.
Are the R1150 heads bolt on like that?
My R1100RS is 30 years old now and i think the valve stem seals are on the way out, there is a slight blue smoke. i have the back part taken off for paint and i run the engine once a while and noted the blue smoke.
I have a rear frame, master brake & clutch pump and gearbox from the R1150RS, 6 gears and a GS final drive with mudguard. I'm now working on the final drive for a total rebuilt, it's in a acid bath now.
Well, it came to my attention that the '98's R1100's have a Oil thermostat, that's why i mentioned it. @@RestorationBiker
Do I still want to continue owning these old BMW bikes or should I consider something newer like the 1050 VStrom?
Hi, Yes, I know what you mean. But! The later bikes are un-repairable, by the home owner as there is so much electronic gismos on there that touching one thing will disable another. That is without the poor quality of modern items, like shock absorbers that fail with 14K on them. Drive shafts that MUST be checked at 15K . The oiler bikes just need regular maintenance that almost anyone can do. You have to pay your money and 'gamble away'
Finally bought an old R1100rt but with issues. The bike is running on one cylinder but the fuel injector and spark plug are both working, on the non functioning cylinder. I have done the usual checks like swapping HT leads etc but to no avail.The bike is showing compression of 175 on the running cylinder and 210 on the non running cylinder. This has me stumped - the bike has run hot at some point as there is bubbling of paintwork on the body panels close to the exhaust though I think it is common for these engines to run hot if left idling . It has only done 38,000 miles. Any ideas tips much appreciated
Hi Geoff, sounds interesting. Is the exhaust stone cold on the non functioning side? If it is then obviously no fuel is being burnt in the cylinder. 210PSI sounds too high!!!! Go back to basics as you have just bought the bike so i presume you do not know what it has done recently.
Start with valve clearances, then very carefully check valve timing, (very carefully) It is possible for the cam sprocket to come loose and rotate without turning the cam, Don't run on that cylinder then. How do I know? I had one that was doing exactly what yours is doing and that is what it was. If all that checks out OK. Then, you must replace the plugs, remove injectors and do a 'flow' test. I think you would have found it by then. These engines are very simple and very reliable, so not a lot stops them. Let me know how you get on and I will help as much as I can.
Thanks for the very prompt reply. The non functioning sides exhaust does not get hot and can be touched whilst the bike is running on one cylinder. I have now removed the rocker cover and can see that the cam is operating the valves when I manually rotate the engine. The clearances on the valves are a little high. I am not sure how you do a flow test but I found your video of interest showing that the cams can become chipped. I am really surprised by the high compression yet the bike would not fire on this cylinder even when I sprayed some WD 40 down the intake. It's a real puzzle but I guess that's why it was a cheap bike. I'll keep you informed as to how things progress. I had a Zetor tractor that would not run properly due to a twisted cam shaft (you'd think it would have snapped rather than twist) but can't imagine anything like that on a BMW as metals far superior. The only other thing I can think of is that one of the HT leads was not producing a bright blue spark and wondered if poor detonation might have resulted in a build up of carbon over time, hence producing high compression.Thanks again@@RestorationBiker
Will take your advice and check timing - but no nasty noises so far. Cheers@@RestorationBiker
@@geoffreyfowler6458 Sounds very interesting. Check the valve timing. It is possible to get it right but have it totally wrong. The best way to check it is to have both valve covers off so you can see both cams. Turn the engine to the OT mark on the flywheel. Find out which pot is at TDC firing. Get the running cylinder at TDC firing. Then check the other side (non functioning) to check that the cam is NOT firing. It is possible to get both pots firing at the same time, which means one won't run. Whilst it is there check the cam sprocket marks to ensure that they are right. It is so easy to get it wrong, ask me how I know? Then if that checks out, do a slow engine rotate with a spanner on the crank and watch VERY carefully to see if the cams are doing what they are supposed to do. I am certain there is a cam issue here. Let me know how you get on.
@@RestorationBiker Ok, please let me give you an update. I have managed to get the bike to fire on the right hand cylinder by spraying easy start through the throttle body intake but the engine ran rough. Otherwise it will still run only on the left pot but the air intake on the right hand cylinder does not sound right and it really sucks air which may explain the very high compression reading of 210-220psi. In addition to checking TDC I decided to check the cam operation as you suggested. I marked the flywheel with tip ex at the point the right cylinder inlet valve starts to open I then rotated the engine until the left side inlet started to open and looking through the inspection hole the mark on the flywheel was visible in exactly the same place. There also appeared to be minimal difference when checking the exhaust valve inlet. I have swapped the injectors, ht leads etc and this has got me stumped although I'm enjoying the challenge. I have removed the exhaust but cannot see anything amiss with valves or carbon build up in the pipe. I do know the engine has run hot at some point as there is paint bubbling on the fairing near the cylinder/ exhaust. I'm not expecting a solution here but any pointers much appreciated - I assume next step is to remove head. Cheers