Hi Aeromodeller1, thank you for your kind comment! Indeed, these little Guillow's models are not the very best choice, if you want to make them fly. But the good thing about them is, that you don't need much space to keep them. But I think, that the main problem is the rubber band, that comes with the kit. It does not allow you to wind up the prop very often and with only about 150 turns of the prop, the model simply can't fly for more, than a few seconds. Have a wonderful day!
Andreas, my heart is with you, but those Guillows kits are brutal on rubber band power. They're built for engine power that could haul 100g of cargo. Try or at least look-over a Peck Polymers kit - they have a Mustang and a Zero. Get a little bottle of Nitrate dope, not Butyrate, just skim the outer edges of the sticks, where the tissue goes. Use a tissue color you can live with, no paint. other than a light coat of clear to waterproof the tissue. You'll be amazed. If it glides OK but climbs and stalls under power, use a balsa shim to aim the propeller slightly downward. Then use the Guillows plans and some of the parts parts to build something like the Peck kit. Add sticks and fill between them with 0.75mm sheet.for a balsa nose in place of the plastic part. The Peck Zero has 1/20 inch / 1.25mm sheet and sticks where Guillos use 1/16 inch/1.5mm. Move the anchor point for the rubber band 1 former further forward. Every gram you keep off the back of the plane means 2 gram of weight you don't need up front to balance it. Keep the outer 3-5mm of the sheet outline of the rudder and horizontal stabilizer parts and use longer sticks in the middle. Then sand down the horizontal and vertical tail to 1mm or 0.75mm thick. Buy some real Pirelli Tan rubber, same cross section as the rubber in the kit, but far more powerful. I've built their FW-190 and never made it light enough. Ought to try again. I got one Hurricane light enough it would rise on rubber power after I launched it. Historic markings are fine but try no color first. Some people laser-print on tissue paper... backed with regular paper to go through the printer...
Dear Bill, thank you very much for your very valuable advice! I really hope very much, that many friends of Guillow's models will find and read your advice. Unfortunately I don't have at the moment enough time to build another rubber powered model, but I do have stored a few more nice kits. One of them is the Fi-156 from Dumas, which comes with coloured tissue. And when I'm ready to build it, I'll check out every detail, you've shared here. Thank you very much! With regards, Andreas
Thank you. I did really enjoy watching you and your FW. Those Dumas kits look sweet. My wife got me a Turboporter, from NZ I think, One of these days! Be well, friend, Bill
For those, who might wonder, why I've put the Nazi swastika decals on my german Guillow's models. I did it, because I wanted to build models of existing aircrafts and the swastika on my models shows nothing else, than the historical truth.
Hi Dilan aeroplane guy, you're absolutely right. Kurt Tank was a genius. Just think of the fact, that the power plant of the Fw 190 could be changed from the twin-row BMW 801 radial engine to the Daimler-Benz DB 603 inverted V12 and the Junkers Jumo 213. And the Fw 190 is not only technically an excellent design, it's also very beautiful. In my eyes, the most beautiful fighter airplanes of this time are the Fw 190 and the Spitfire Mk V. I wish you all the very best!
Hi RR67890, thank you! My slideshows are for those, who like Guillow's models. If someone doesn't like the way, I've built my models, I simply hope, that he will do a better job and enjoy his own work. I wish you all the best!
I don't wonder. You've built an incredible LST for your grandson and so I can imagine, that your Fw 190 must have been or still is an outstanding model too.
Thanks. I like your model. Nothing prettier than the 190. Right now the LST sits on a shelf in his bedroom. Now his brother wants an IFS-1 Carronade in the same scale. Just got the Lindberg kit to use as a pattern. I do have another one of these 16" FW-190 kits right now. Haven't started it yet. Those little .020 motors are getting expensive when you can find them. Have a half built A-26 from Comet and one .020 for it right now. Built one of those when I was about 15. Had 2 Cox .020 motors on control line and could take off on one motor. Those were the good old days back in the 60s.
very nice build, but too many coats of paint. do one coat to get it to fly for lengthened periods of time, and watch what kind of rubber bands you put in there. some of them are stronger than others. avoid the weak bands. they will never get it to fly far. but again, very good build. cheers
Thank you! I've tried to find a compromise between the way the model looks and the way it flies and I also wanted it to be easily reproducible. I'm very grateful for such comments like yours, because your advice is very useful for me and all those, who want to build their first Guillow's model resp. for those, who want to improve the performance of their models.
I've tried to find an easily reproducible way to balance a Guillow's model, so that it would be easier for other model-makers to equilibrate their own model. Your comment is a very valuable advice. Thank you!
Well you obviously,build them with great passion,and detail,but as a suggestion see if you can find an open field that will allow wind to assist the aircraft in it's lift, where you are is beautiful, but those trees block lift, I know you know this,and it just came too mind. I am also looking at a fellow in upstate New York, his address is maxfliart.com check him out ,he also states trim difficulty.
I think, that a big issue, why these little Guillow's models fly so poorly is the rubber band, that comes with the kit. The big LC Bf 109 has a much better rubber band and it's also much easier to trim it out. The washers, which I've used for my smaller models do fit pretty well, but they also turn the model easily from tail heavy to nose heavy. And I've chosen this place for my test flights, because I needed the high grass to protect my models from damage. But you're right about the trees. Unfortunately I didn't know any better places, because at this time I lived in a foreign country.
@@andreasbuttner-land1890 ohh !! I see you are not in your country,that would really put a damper on the issue, nonetheless ,keep at your hobby ,and we will cheer you on.
...how you say "lead sled" in German ? Hehe, just kidding... your airplane is too heavy... build another one and don't paint it, just dope... Ill fly better... Cheers...
You can paint it, but use an airbrush spray painting tool. Thin the paint and leave the bottom surfaces white. But it does look good in black tissue covering.
Guillows kits are notoriously heavy. That you got it to fly at all is quite an accomplishment.
Hi Aeromodeller1, thank you for your kind comment! Indeed, these little Guillow's models are not the very best choice, if you want to make them fly. But the good thing about them is, that you don't need much space to keep them. But I think, that the main problem is the rubber band, that comes with the kit. It does not allow you to wind up the prop very often and with only about 150
turns of the prop, the model simply can't fly for more, than a few seconds. Have a wonderful day!
Andreas, my heart is with you, but those Guillows kits are brutal on rubber band power. They're built for engine power that could haul 100g of cargo. Try or at least look-over a Peck Polymers kit - they have a Mustang and a Zero. Get a little bottle of Nitrate dope, not Butyrate, just skim the outer edges of the sticks, where the tissue goes. Use a tissue color you can live with, no paint. other than a light coat of clear to waterproof the tissue. You'll be amazed. If it glides OK but climbs and stalls under power, use a balsa shim to aim the propeller slightly downward.
Then use the Guillows plans and some of the parts parts to build something like the Peck kit. Add sticks and fill between them with 0.75mm sheet.for a balsa nose in place of the plastic part. The Peck Zero has 1/20 inch / 1.25mm sheet and sticks where Guillos use 1/16 inch/1.5mm. Move the anchor point for the rubber band 1 former further forward. Every gram you keep off the back of the plane means 2 gram of weight you don't need up front to balance it. Keep the outer 3-5mm of the sheet outline of the rudder and horizontal stabilizer parts and use longer sticks in the middle. Then sand down the horizontal and vertical tail to 1mm or 0.75mm thick. Buy some real Pirelli Tan rubber, same cross section as the rubber in the kit, but far more powerful.
I've built their FW-190 and never made it light enough. Ought to try again. I got one Hurricane light enough it would rise on rubber power after I launched it. Historic markings are fine but try no color first. Some people laser-print on tissue paper... backed with regular paper to go through the printer...
Dear Bill, thank you very much for your very valuable advice! I really hope very much, that many friends of Guillow's models will find and read your advice. Unfortunately I don't have at the moment enough time to build another rubber powered model, but I do have stored a few more nice kits. One of them is the Fi-156 from Dumas, which comes with coloured tissue. And when I'm ready to build it, I'll check out every detail, you've shared here.
Thank you very much!
With regards,
Andreas
Thank you. I did really enjoy watching you and your FW. Those Dumas kits look sweet. My wife got me a Turboporter, from NZ I think, One of these days! Be well, friend,
Bill
For those, who might wonder, why I've put the Nazi swastika decals on my german Guillow's models. I did it, because I wanted to build models of existing aircrafts and the swastika on my models shows nothing else, than the historical truth.
It might have the swastika on there but the engineer who designed and developed it was a genius
Hi Dilan aeroplane guy, you're absolutely right. Kurt Tank was a genius. Just think of the fact, that the power plant of the Fw 190 could be changed from the twin-row BMW 801 radial engine to the Daimler-Benz DB 603 inverted V12 and the Junkers Jumo 213. And the Fw 190 is not only technically an excellent design, it's also very beautiful. In my eyes, the most beautiful fighter airplanes of this time are the Fw 190 and the Spitfire Mk V.
I wish you all the very best!
I don't understand all the criticism. It is a great finish. The colors look good.You worked hard there is nothing wrong with it.
Hi RR67890, thank you! My slideshows are for those, who like Guillow's models. If someone doesn't like the way, I've built my models, I simply hope, that he will do a better job and enjoy his own work. I wish you all the best!
Why are you flying it around all of those trees? You should find a bigger field.
I found indeed another place, as you can see in the end of the video.
I flew one of those on control line with a Cox .020 many years ago.
I don't wonder. You've built an incredible LST for your grandson and so I can imagine, that your Fw 190 must have been or still is an outstanding model too.
Thanks. I like your model. Nothing prettier than the 190. Right now the LST sits on a shelf in his bedroom. Now his brother wants an IFS-1 Carronade in the same scale. Just got the Lindberg kit to use as a pattern. I do have another one of these 16" FW-190 kits right now. Haven't started it yet. Those little .020 motors are getting expensive when you can find them. Have a half built A-26 from Comet and one .020 for it right now. Built one of those when I was about 15. Had 2 Cox .020 motors on control line and could take off on one motor. Those were the good old days back in the 60s.
Your grandsons have a penchant for interesting ships and they have a grandpa, everyone else would dream of.
very nice build, but too many coats of paint. do one coat to get it to fly for lengthened periods of time, and watch what kind of rubber bands you put in there. some of them are stronger than others. avoid the weak bands. they will never get it to fly far. but again, very good build. cheers
Thank you! I've tried to find a compromise between the way the model looks and the way it flies and I also wanted it to be easily reproducible. I'm very grateful for such comments like yours, because your advice is very useful for me and all those, who want to build their first Guillow's model resp. for those, who want to improve the performance of their models.
tends to nose dive, try a bit less nose weight, i use modeling clay :)
I've tried to find an easily reproducible way to balance a Guillow's model, so that it would be easier for other model-makers to equilibrate their own model. Your comment is a very valuable advice. Thank you!
Congratulations on a brilliant build. These kits don't fly very well on rubber power. They require to much balance clay added to the nose.
Thank you very much!
Well you obviously,build them with great passion,and detail,but as a suggestion see if you can find an open field that will allow wind to assist the aircraft in it's lift, where you are is beautiful, but those trees block lift,
I know you know this,and it just came too mind.
I am also looking at a fellow in upstate New York, his address is maxfliart.com check him out ,he also states trim difficulty.
I think, that a big issue, why these little Guillow's models fly so poorly is the rubber band, that comes with the kit. The big LC Bf 109 has a much better rubber band and it's also much easier to trim it out. The washers, which I've used for my smaller models do fit pretty well, but they also turn the model easily from tail heavy to nose heavy. And I've chosen this place for my test flights, because I needed the high grass to protect my models from damage. But you're right about the trees. Unfortunately I didn't know any better places, because at this time I lived in a foreign country.
@@andreasbuttner-land1890 ohh !! I see you are not in your country,that would really put a damper on the issue, nonetheless ,keep at your hobby ,and we will cheer you on.
@@royalanania3306 :-) !
...how you say "lead sled" in German ? Hehe, just kidding... your airplane is too heavy... build another one and don't paint it, just dope... Ill fly better... Cheers...
You're absolutely right, that it's too heavy to fly well. But it flys. A similar german word is Bleiente - lead duck ;-)
You can paint it, but use an airbrush spray painting tool. Thin the paint and leave the bottom surfaces white.
But it does look good in black tissue covering.