75. Sorting the plumbing in the campervan
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Having replaced the sink in the new worktop, I needed to sort out the sink outlet for waste water and the supply pipe from the main tank. This proved irritatingly troublesome, as you will see!
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Tools & Parts used for my campervan build
Autoterm diesel heater: geni.us/Van_Au...
Renogy 2kW inverter: geni.us/Van_Re...
Sink: geni.us/Van_Ne...
Induction hob: geni.us/Van_In...
Portable toilet: geni.us/Van_To...
Fridge: geni.us/Van_Co...
Charger: geni.us/Van_Ma...
Solar Controller: geni.us/Van_So...
Gas Alarm: geni.us/Van_Ga...
Old sink unit: geni.us/Van_Si...
Old heater unit: geni.us/Van_Pr...
Old inverter: geni.us/Van_In...
DeWalt jigsaw: geni.us/Van_De...
DeWalt drill: geni.us/Van_De...
DeWalt mitre saw: geni.us/Van_De...
DeWalt circular saw: geni.us/Van_De...
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You never cease to amaze me. You take a simple mundane task like fixing plumbing in a camper van and make it interesting. Not only interesting but fun to watch and informative believe it or not. It really does amaze me.
Barbed fittings are not meant to seal on their own. You just needed a hose clamp on the water line or as you call them a jubilee clamp. Nice work though!!!
Took the words right out of my mouth. I'd redo that without using any sealant and a clamp on each fitting.
And if the hose is too small to fit the regular hose clamps, two or three zip ties, pulled very tight, should do the trick.
Yes come on David just use a hose clip Lols plus using a sealant on top of a leak never works 👍
Agree entirely. Also suggest using marine grade stainless hose clamps not zinc coated ones. Take the sealant off, take the hose off and put a good quality hose clamp on it, if you don’t use hose clamps it will eventually leak!
Ah, well, now ... barb type fittings used not to require anything other than friction to ensure a seal.
For those who used Bunsen burners during chemistry periods the pink rubber hose from the bench top gas spigots to the Bunsen burner will recall the hose was merely a push fit.
I'm going back over sixty years and happy to be corrected if things have changed significantly.
I can't recall my school ever being razed to the ground, even with me in attendance.
Might be worth some folks doing a spot of Googling prior to posting slightly inaccurate advice, albeit in a well meaning way.
If a spigot fitting requires a clamp of any description then generally the spigot is designed with parallel sides with a pronounced lip at the end.
If a "quick fix" is required on joints which are not a tight fit to a hose then use self amalgamating tape.
Would further suggest not being sparing with the tape, and being careful to lap the layers by a half width and keep a tension on the tape when winding.
Such tape is not just for sealing electrical joints.
I always enjoy your videos because of your sense of humor and you narration. Thank you David for a truly enjoyable Friday evening. And that is quite the cliff hanger at the end. Have a great weekend.
Its just so wonderfully satisfying watching David working on his Van, so aptly named, "Pandemonium". His antics give me such a feeling of "anything is possible." My self confidence rises beyond recognition and fired on by the comments on hacksaws or jigsaws and judging by eye, going back repeatedly to buy missing or non-fitting parts, I don't feel so alone and isolated facing the demoralising prospects of attacking my DIY projects.
As an owner of an induction hob, I can tel you:
Everithing from steel and iron works: cast iron, carbon iron, stainless steel, alpaca and so on. I even have some metal plates and they work too. Aluminum does not work at all unless it has a steel insert in the bottom. Usually they are marked as induction compatible. When you look at the bottom, you will see a steel grate - that heats it.
The hob will tell you - if it cannot work with the vessel, it will show error on display.
alpaca? 🤔
Shifting focus off the personal canal vlogs onto other projects was a great decision. You're back to producing as much or more great canal content as you ever have. Seems like you've got a renewed vigor. Yes, I know this is the van channel 😉And of course, the van content is great too.
What a patience you have David. Well done. Brilliant video. Thank you letting us observe you as you work.
Thanks 👍
Only David could rivet his audience with such a mundane (yet rife with peril) exercise in plumbing 101! Well done sir! Cheers.
I'm cracking up. I'm not sure which is funnier / cleverer -- David or the comments section. What a great video.
Hi David
Just seen the waste pipe fitting video.
Why not just warm up the waste pipe at an appropriate point with a hair dryer ( a heat gun can be used but with caution 😬) and create a bend, then keep hold of it at the required angle and dip in a bucket of cold water to set the angle. Also, smear the wate pipe rubber grommet seal with washing up liquid to lubricate before fitting. It will go on further and a lot easier.
The inlet pipe you fitted was not a problem with your fitting it. It was a problem with the the white plastic fitting not being seated to the pre assembled pipe properly. It should have been tested first at the factory. The water was not coming from your black warmed up pipe where it joined. Sealant may work temporarily but if twisted it may leak again. Regards Peter
Please David don’t take everyone’s sound advice , I’d prefer watching your methods. Thanks for the entertainment sir !
Haha will do!
My induction cooker came with a simple, flexible magnet like you use to hold things on the refridgerator. You are supposed to use it to check pots and pans. I also found a steel stove diffuser plate that is magnetic -- there are many on Amazon. If a pan isn't magnetic the diffuser plate can be used on top of the cooker, and works as well to heat the pan.
I will buy one, thanks
re: RidgeMonkey -- if a magnet sticks to it, it should work on the induction cooktop.
Best of luck!
I love Davids willingness to try stuff and how he admits it might not work, same as me, sometimes i want to see why an idea fails.
I wouldn't be worried about diesel spills for the reason you state but more so a diesel smell slowly building up.
What you lack in formal training, you more than make up for with solid thinking. Kudos! As for the small leak, perhaps heat the pipe and install a small hose clamp. That's a "fickle finger of fate" thing. It's leaking because it CAN. 😅 Top marks on the diesel vent. Can’t wait to hear the report on that.
I'm pleased to report that a 160-mile round trip recently resulted in no drips from the vent!
That satisfying "tump", when you squeezed the seal on the waste pipe
You always make me chuckle…..’if this doesn’t work I’ll sell the van’…….😅😅 Thanks again for a grand wee vlog. I was willing that darned pipe NOT to leak …….arghhh.
What a nail-biting cliffhanger to end on.
I can't wait for the next episode.
Diesel tank - you can buy a purpose made Marine diesel tank with all the fittings and vents on it - Mark Davies shows one on one of his Diesel Heater videos. Water tanks - Why not have them the other way round so that the fresh water pipe goes straight up to the tap instead of the curve? Fresh water on the outside, waste on the inside?Always a good idea to clean the pipe cuts of any swarf/curly bits, as if it goes in the water tank it will get into your pump and could cause problems. Also take the stickers off the pipe that goes into your fresh water too :-)
Re the diesel tank ventilation issue. Usually a secondary fuel tank will have a 'fuel tank vent screw' on the top of the tank filling cap which (when unscrewed) allows air into the tank as fuel is being drawn out by the pump. This is quite normal with fuel tanks on boat outboard motors and on marine 'secondary' fuel tanks which is essentially what you have.
Hose clamps, heat guns and lubrication make portable plumbing perfect fun. If a magnet sticks to a pan, it is induction suitable.
Jubilee clip should have been used for the pump connection.
It shouldn't need one, the whole point of the barb thing is that it's a pressure fit
@@Vandemonium a barb fitting is only good for gravity fed water systems as there is no pressure being fed to it a jubliee clam will press the pipe closer to the barb fitting creating a water tight seal
I agree jubilee clip required similar barb finish on some gas connections but you wouldn't dream of just push fitting the pipe, or WOULD YOU 😳
Forgot to mention. We all learn from experience. Doing the Doing. So we'll done matey many people would have given up. The more you do diy the better you get. Cheers from old George and Jane
The easiest way to check if a pot, pan or kettle can be used on an induction plate is to use a small magnet. If it sticks, the answer is yes
Hacksaws work much, MUCH better if you secure the workpiece near the cut. They cut on the push so just a good corner to wedge it in is often enough. Don't try and go fast, you'll just make yourself tired. Don't push too hard, you'll just bend the blade and make it wander. Just relax, go slow and if you start to get impatient, think about something else; maybe the next thing you need to do.
Also, that is a tetchy little saw. A proper, full-size one give you much more usable blade length and many more teeth through the kerf for each stroke.
👍
A small jubilee clip or jubbly clip as my mate calls them is the way to go if the water pipe still leaks. Wont need much pressure, keep gently tightening the clip as the pump is running, when the drip stops, quid's in. Nothing more annoying. As regards the pin hole in the handle. The diesel will probably slosh about like an old belly dancer and the most you'll get is an oily stain. Wont be the Torry Canyon in the back of the van. Oh , when your cutting with a junior hacksaw, the gap the blade makes tries, successfully to close. Used in conjunction with poly pipe you get the melting effect from the friction which causes it to become even more sticky. You may have noticed it became easier when you placed it over your knee. I stick to the senior hacksaw, not becuase I'm getting old, but its more user friendly. Especially to an apprentice senior. 😂
I'm taking notes to see how I can do this in my allotment shed.
Always end on a cliffhanger David , that way everyone will want to see the next episode 😊 Cheers from California !
I love a plumbing video that doesn't just go down the drain! ;)
Great work as always. I do miss your boat (it was a low key dream to get to the UK and stumble into you cruising the canals)... but I am glad to see the vids there showing the history and modern canal life, and these camper van vids. You're very entertaining and always inspiring with your interest, ambition, and DIY spirit. Keep up the great work!
I second mvpeters suggestion - replace the ferrule/barb combination. I suspect the leak is at that joint, not where the hose fits over the barbs.
As to the vent in the diesel canister - I would think that a vented cap would be available - one with a one-way valve, I mean.
I didn't read down the comments very far so I apologize if I'm repeating advice here. Always use a magnet to definitively test any cookware you want to use on an induction cooktop. If a magnet adheres to it, it will work. My husband and I (from Virginia USA) love watching your vlogs, David ... on the canals or on the roads.
Thank you
Not to rain on your parade David but would suggest a brief natter with your insurers ref your modifications performed by yourself.
I once contacted the BSS and boat insurers ref work on my boat.
Both stated that provided the manufacturer's installation instructions/method statement were followed to the letter then they were happy.
However insurers did assure me that they would check to confirm compliance. You will appreciate that's why there are "T&C's" ... for their benefit.
If a magnet sticks to it then it will work with induction!
And magnetic metal 'flame-tamer' plates are readily available to transfer heat to a non-metallic pot or pan.
Thank you, David! Entertaining as always and there are some quotes that I have in mind as well when working on something for the first time!
Cheers!
It wasn't the hacksaw. You were holding the black pipe on the wrong end. Always hold the longest end, and cut off the shortest end, while it's in the air. Don't rest the short bit on anything. If you do that from now on, you'll find the job will go much smoother. For everything you cut.
Also, if you wipe some spit on the inside of the rubber hose attachment before you push it onto the sink drain, the male end, it would just slide on.
Just about the push fit connection on the bottom of the sink. If you put a small bit of fairy liquid around the inside of the rubber connector it will slide on much easier. Still loving the van videos
Also, I am SO glad you didn’t saw your fingers off. 🎉
Here's a tip for any plastic fittings that leak. Check for a moulding line with your finger nail. The water tracks along these. You can smooth them with fine sand paper or wire wool or even a scourer. As long as any scratches you make are fine enough And run in the same direction as the sealing surface, it will work. In this case you'd wrap the barbed fitting in your abrasive and hold and turn the pipe left and right to polish out the moulding line.
In addition or as an alternative you can put several turns of PTFE tape round it before pushing it together.
Nice work, learned a cupla things, still trying to get mine together. Thanks m8, nice work.
get a magnet see if will attach to the ridgemonkey, if it does it will work of your hob
“Arrghh! I hate hacksaws!” saw-saw-wiggly-wiggly sawing… and 😮….3…2…1 Holding my breath, will there be blood flow? Yikes! 😅 Good job! 🎉 🥳
It's just like the start of an episode of "Casualty"!
A jubilee clip or pipe clamp may solve the leaking problem but there is an assumption that the leak is caused by the black pipe you have squeezed onto the barbs. It may be that the leak is coming from the metal crimped half.
It's coming from the pipe, I can see it
@@Vandemonium The push fit looks sufficiently tight, it looks like the leak is coming from between the metal and white nylon parts, pull the black rubber pipe back a couple of barbs so that you can see which joint is leaking. Sealant will probably not last when applied externally, rather than between the surfaces that should be mated together.
None of the Ridgemonkey cooking products is suitable for induction hobs, but you can buy an induction hob adapter plate from, say, Amazon, which is basically a ferrous disc that sits between your induction hob and the non-induction pan.
(I’ve been considering the same question myself!).
Hello from Texas.. push on David .
Super glue will wick into the water connection and seal it. The cap on the diesel tank seems to have a small nozzle designed to take a vent tube. That can be connected to the cap and run up a few inches to prevent leaks.
David, 1. simply put a hose clamp around the leaking pipe, 2. A pinhole vent (to allow air in) while diesel may not exit as a liquid, being a hydrocarbon will produce vapour! So the suggestion of a little one way valve was a good one!
Great work. Loving this "upgrade series"
Soak your bendy pipes in boiling water then hold it flat whilst it cool. Hey presto! straight pipes!
Actually pretty interesting stuff.
I’m amazed by your ability to keep on going through the difficult technical fiddly bits.
I really admire your camper van, and am considering building one for myself and the wife.
Happy Camping
A proper vent on the diesel tank will prevent the vacuum collapse during use but will close off when not in use to prevent odors and flammable gases from escaping. Just a thought David. Great video as always!
You are doing quality work. I am excited to see the places you take the viewers.
Hello David, The bad news first and the good news second. I bought a Ridge Money for the boat fine on gas but at home on the induction hob, a big fail because the RM is made of non magnetic aluminium. Now the good news I purchased a Tescoma Induction Hob Adapter from Amazon, currently unavailable but there are other such beasts available on Amazon. The adapter works well but it must be borne in mind that the steel adapter holds the heat. Hope that helps. P.S. I had an Autoterm installed on my boat to replace the aged Mikuni.
Use a jubilee clip man!! Simple and effective!!
Check your pans with a magnet. If it sticks it should work.
Ah yes, good point!
Enjoyed the video, very well done. Use a magnet on the cooking pan, if it sticks it'll work. The pin hole vent is likely to be too small. Assuming the van is stationery when the heater is in use, just slacken off the filler cap.
Cool, thanks
Jubilee clip will fix the leak at the barbed connector.
Oh my, more sawing in midair 😮
🤣
Sawing in midair is the funniest thing…. 🤣😂
Hi David, a bit of Fairy Loquid on those push fits can help push them in further. Great video as always
Another fun video. I think your diesel will be just fine.
David" sealant? 😅 heat the hose with hair dryer then twist it back and forth a few times, this should seat the barbs. If not put on a wide zip tie and pull it tight with a pliers. 😊
Try placing a magnet on the bottom of your ridge monkey if it sticks to the bottom, then you should have enough ferrous material to work.
I looked up your comment "said the actress to the bishop" and laughed. Entertaining videos as always. Thank you for sharing your adventures and thoughts with all of us. Hello from Colorado USA.
As Irene says - a drop of washing up liquid works wonders on interference pipe fittings.
Two things. Fuel tank needs one way valve. When you stop the vehicle fuel will go one end of container. Same when you accelerate causing fuel to pop out of pin hole. Looks as if you need hose clamps. Also it looks as if the crimped water hose. Silver bit is faulty. One way valves are very low cost. Etc. Cheers from old George and Jane.
Cheers. I've done a 160 mile trip over mixed roads and absolutely nothing came out of the pinhole, phew
use a tie-rap or 2 jubilee clamp if you have 1 on your water pipe
😃👍
use any magnet on any pan if it stick to your pan it's suitable for induction 😉👍
had the same problem of dripping from my hose, ended up going to the doctor.
just kidding, I ended up using a hose clamp, that worked.
BTW I also had trouble finding the right words for "hose clamps", so I asked chatGPT something like "what is the name of these metal rings that are used to tighten a hose?". this thing is brilliant!
It’s outrageous. I hope you win your case.
Good afternoon, another amusing video, thank you. may I make a few suggestions please, when cutting plastic tube flexible or rigid either use a sharp knife or support the pipe mechanically because as you were cutting with the saw your action of pushing down caused the cut area to close up gripping the saw blade making it harder to cut, the free end of the pipe was leaning on the seat pushing up, never rely on barbs not leaking always use a suitable hose clip to clamp the pipe to the barb and finally when pushing fittings into a flexible pipe smear some vaseline around the fitting as lubrication.
With the leak from your water pipe, why not simply use a jubilee clip?
The vent in your diesel container. A very easy fix and a fuel gauge to match. If you go to a chancery and but a fuel gauge screw rap for your fuel container (a universal fit) if comes with a vent screw within the cap. About £20 max.
Wago connectors and wago box for your under sink connectors. Electrical retailers normally have some you can buy individually.
Using washing up liquid will lubricate the pipes to make the fitting a lot easier
While being a splendidly simple way of letting air in, fumes may come out on the pinhole, even more so on a hot day.
Until you find a one-way airing valve, thise surely does the trick, but the valve may solve the issue of fumes and smell, if my thinking turns out to be correct.
I hope I am wrong though.
Very well put together video David, as ever.
Virtual handshake from our new home in a lovely village in Hungary
Fumes shouldn’t be an issue, I think, as the whole thing is inside the (former) gas locker
You’ll need a converter plate if you want to use your Ridge Monkey on the induction hob.
Fun genius...in the waterworks. Good stuff ! P.S. be very careful with anything induction/magnetic stovetop. You could ruin it or start a fire, or melt your unit. Treat the induction heater as any other electrical thing; look up everything you must keep away from the new stovetop. Recall must never put anything metal within a microwave oven (similarly, but different physics all together, but...)...or it will spark and ruin your microwave oven. Not sure what type of Aluminum you can use there, or specialy cookware for induction....be Careful ! P.P.S. the gap in the clear wastewater tank with grey corrugated plastic pipe to blue cap is good ! it allows the air displacement as water fills in the wastewater tank...otherwise it would get pressurized too much and stop water flow. P.P.P.S. on the small black pump hose you could use zip-tie around the outside to crimp-it on to the plastic. Zip - tie.
To be fair, if the pin hole in the handle doesn't work, it'll be pretty easy to seal it back up.
Love your get 'er done attitude. Cheers
Cutting the stiff pipe with the saw - you're doing it the wrong way around, don't support the short bit you want, support the long bit, then it can't pinch the blade! - - - A smear of liquid soap on the inside of the rubber bung would help it to slip onto the sink drain. - - - dripping filler pipe - a jubilee clip or self-amalgamating tape will fix that!
PTFE tape and a jubilee clip will work wonders on that water pump hose connection.
Maybe a simple access hole in the supply water bottle for filling to save you undoing the pump pipe work. Constantly flexing pipes might incur leakage eventually.
No the Ridge monkey does not work on induction, I have had the same problem, but you can buy an induction plate that will conduct the heat, but it must be solid one. Good luck.
Just try a zip tie around that barb fitting. That little leak shouldn't take much to correct. And your diesel tank pinhole will be just fine. It won't leak or smell. You may even need to make it just a bit larger. Check the tank during operation and see if there is any sign of vacuum. Also check when the temperature in the van heats up for the tank bulging due to expansion.
If you put a cable tie or two on that leaking hose it will help to seal it to the barb.
BRAVO! Well done and a good recovery.
Just found out that you are in a van now!! Look forward to watching you in your new adventure!!;!
Haha cheers, I've had the van for five years! I don't live in it, it's a weekend kinda thing
A little late to the party 😀 x
Surely the pin hole will allow diesel vapour out as well which will build up
If your freshwater refil tank was identical to the supply tank (that one almost is) you could simply swap them over instead of decanting and risking spilage. I think you are probably right about the diesel not spilling from the pin prick, but i did chuckle when you said "it will only drop on the road -not ideal but not a crisis" It would be for the poor sod following you, if they hit that patch of diesel🤣
Fair point though the amount would be absolutely negligible if any, and it would first have to spill out of the tiny vent and then make its way to the gas locker hole ... I checked after a 160-mile trip on mixed roads and there wasn't even the tiniest drip escaped.
LOL
Thank you. Hope everything works well!
If a magnet likes your pan so will the hob
A tiny smear from a tiny 1/2oz pot of Black Swan silicone grease gets any pipe onto any connector. I couldnt help thinking of Kenny Everett's Reg Prescott character while you were hacking away at that pipe !
Exactly right, silicone grease has many uses
For induction tops, if a magnet sticks to pan / ridge mokey it will work.
Did all the water drip out and flood the van while David was driving? Did the diesel all spill out onto the road causing a 40 car pileup? Did David just give up and sell the van? Find out next time on Vandemonium: troubles in paradise.
Oh I can't wait!!
Jusst a thought, you might want to remove the label on the hard black plastic pipe you used for straightening the water pipe to the pump. the ink, glue and paper will loosen and float around in your water jug. Might plug up your pump and leach undesirable chemicals into your water. Just a thought.
Great video, entertaining as always!
I was a little worried about the standing pipe - both because it looked like it still had a label on it, and also because it feels like the gap between the standing pipe and the flexible one could be a problem for bugs etc…
Stick a magnet on the pan it. If it stick it'll work.
Ps I've not tried the theory even though I have an induction hob on the cooker!
Great video on how to do a 10 minute job in only 3 days.😅
Yep, that's my DIY
Jubilee clip needed, 000 or 00 size. I would remove the waste tank and put pipe out through the bottom as its only dish water.
More storage space then.
A lot of vans tap into the main diesel tank for the heater. More storage and no diesel leaks and smells.
place a magnet under the pan, if it sticks it is ok.
Jugs sounds right
That would be one magic splash
If you look up Ham-fisted in the dictionary there is a picture of David holding a hacksaw. 🤣
True