NOTE: I tried to replace the bezel insert on this watch with an aluminum insert that matches the original 6105 and unfortunately you CANNOT. These steeldive1970 bezel inserts are thick ceramic inserts with a stepped shape to them to fit within the bezel. The Aluminum inserts are FLAT so they rest on the outer ring of the case that the crystal presses into, so flat inserts simply ARE NOT compatible with these watches. I tried to mold the original insert to create a riser for a flat insert but unfortunately I don't have the necessary resources to do it properly and ended up breaking my original insert. Hopefully this information helps anyone thinking of swapping the insert. Especially since to do it effectively (Without damaging or altering the functionality of the bezel) you need to pop out the crystal to get the insert out. So I'd recommend just sticking with the original insert.
@@allenwalters8812 Happy to hear it! I contacted Seikosis to try and get another logo, and although they said they would check, I never got a followup response.
Yeah never mind. The guy told me it was matte and it looked like it through the paper it was wrapped in but when I took it out it wasn't at all. Don't care to be lied to like that.@@ItsAnotherWatch
@@allenwalters8812 That's disappointing. I must admit, although the dials themselves are the best out there, the service isn't great to be honest. Sorry that it wasn't matte finish.
I've been looking at making a Willard tribute myself and decided to go down this route and use the Steeldive case, movement and hands, rather than buying them all separately on Ali. Means I don't have to mess about cutting a crown stem to fit on my first ever build too 😂
I've watched most of your videos and I can say, listening to you "waffle on" is just fine. I've learned more about building watches just from your random thoughts. Keep it up!!
Had to say you have been an inspiration to me, one of the best youtubers explaining how to build watches and how to source parts, very in depth and concise love the fact you don't give up due to your frustration's and thanks to your mistakes I'm on my 7th successful watch build. Once again cheers buddy 😊😊👍👍
As for changing the finish of the glossy logo to a brushed look while it's on the dial, the only thing I can think of is using a bit of peg wood, sanding it flat on an angle and glue a strip of 1000 grit sandpaper on that flat end. Then you just gently rub it back and forth as straight as you can on the logo. It's how I polish hands, albeit out of the case and with a bit of felt and polishing compound instead.
I am into homage watches because there’s no way I can afford nor would pay those prices. I like the idea of modding and that is how I stumbled onto your channel. I binged your videos and love them. Your builds are real and not chopped up with sharp editing to make it look like your some expert builder that never faces problems. Your videos have totally inspired me to jump in and take a stab at modding. Your videos are packed with lots of information and humor, very clear and honest. A great job mate, keep it up.
Dan, your watch modding skills are simply exceptional! Your attention to detail and precision in your work is truly impressive. You have an incredible ability to transform ordinary watches into unique and beautiful pieces that reflect your artistic vision and expertise. Your passion for watch modding shines through in every project you undertake, and the results are always stunning. You are a true master of your craft, and your work is admired by many. Keep up the amazing work!👍
Nice job Daniel. I like your builds the most from those others that I follow because your process is truly honest...you make the same mistakes that I have done...others "cut away" and do not show you the mis-steps. BRAVO!!! Thanks again for your honesty Phil the Architect Watchmaker
I have done a bezel insert swap on a steeldive willard, flip the watch upside down and soak the bezel in nail polish remover, just use a little nail polish remover, just enough to cover the bezel. Pick off the old bezel insert, remove the retention wire, pop off the bezel, apply some silicone grease on the underside of the bezel where it interfaces with the click spring. Re-apply bezel onto watch and click spring, rotate it to make sure it is on right. Re-insert the retention spring, then put some silicone grease on that. Use jewlery adhesive to glue on the new bezel insert. I recommend the Tandorio watch bezel as it will fit the steeldive case, and the lume is the correct color and the whole thing just looks more original to the classic willard.
I love watching your enthusiasm for modding watches. I’ve learnt about what’s available out there so one day I have a try myself. Thanks for the videos, keep em coming.
Looks good on your wrist 😊clean look 👌 I think you deserved the beach after that. I have a addiesdive and when I got it it looked so clean clear and beautiful and I should wear it more often but I have started to realise that are a while some watches irritate my skin. 😢 but hey I have over 100 pieces so lots to choose from hence I always double Don which I think I started. 🤔 😊
To get rid of the shiny finish on that logo WITHOUT removing it from the dial, I would use my good ol' tapping trick. With a small piece of 600 grit sandpaper placed on your index finger tip, firmly and steadily as possible start tapping along the logo in sections until you approach a nice, even "matte" finish. It certainly will take some patience and finish will be sandblasted-like instead of brushed. If logo is plated, this is the trick to use cause it's kinda less aggressive than rubbing it with sandpaper. Surrounding area of the logo must be protected to avoid making a mess instead of art, obviously.
I’d say leave as is, the watch is already beautiful and you put a lot of effort and budget doing it, don’t risk it, you may scratch the dial trying to amend the logo. Always an inspiration watching your videos, I did myself an SPB207 following you, keep up the nice work and take care mate!
Finally another 6105/turtle build. This inspires me to just get started on my build to be my first build. Saving up for the parts. Love the watch, just gorgeous.
I built one like this in 2021 using a Rdunae 6105 as a base. It has the most accurate case with a pure 4 o’clock date, and 19mm lug width like the original. I bought a Seikosis dial and hands with the short second hand. Replaced the crown with one with the ‘lock’ arrow in the correct direction. Then I bought a Klien type 3 crystal, which I had to reduce the diameter by 0.25mm all around. Dial - kept the Seikosis logo, but used a couple of coats of fine misting humbrol clear laquer to Matt the logo and dial. The result is brilliant on an uncle Seiko strap.
Nice video as always, you’ve achieved a good classic look. I went down the spb151 route with my 1970 and like you say the hands are a bit wider and easier to see if like me your eyes are ageing. Both great looking in slightly different ways .
That’s a project I have in mind and now seeing your work I’ll go ahead and buy the steel dive and Seiko gear and use your video as a reference! As always your work is fabulous! Cheers !
Can't believe the price of those dials tho I could buy a very decent watch for that. I did try to take off a bezel from a watch didn't realise the bezel gear would brake and I've not Been able to find a replacement one. When starting out tying repairs you always seem to mess it up but you do learn from the mistakes it just isn't easy. That's why it is costly to send them off. I was quoted over£300 to get it fixed which is way more than the watch cost 😮 so it is still broken. But it was a invicta legend which isn't available any more or atleast I could not find one. 😢 but I did learn from it. 😊
The Rdunae is the nearest to the original with 4 o'clock crown, 19mm lugs and the right profile crystal. Also the hands are near perfect. Granted its 50 quid more but looks so good. They also got the bezel profile right.
@@Tom_H327 If you do not mind ,you can ask this same question on my email that I have on the description of my channel....i will be glad to guide your through
Check out Rdunae (Retangula) Willard - absolute one to one with the original, although it's pricy. They do have og lock writing on the crown, aluminium bezel, sizes are exact same as the original, even its 19mm lug instead of 20
Great job, looks fantastic! I also agree that you should've considered the Rdunae watch as a base. I think that would have given the final product that little extra touch. You did say you like ceramic bezel inserts, though, and the 19mm lugs do turn some people off. There seems to be a lot more options for 19mm straps out there these days than there used to be, but I'm not so sure on the bracelets.
I have the same thought. Mine is in a 'Semdu' brand willard, the cheapest at the time just before the Steeldive 1970 came out. Recently a similar to RDUNAE case set (from FEIYASHI) is available for $43.
Cheers for documenting the S-logo change with dial feet, glue and all. BTW, 2 years ago seikosis sent me a dial with a non shiny logo. I would sell the steel dive and grab a rdunae R2X. I am wearing the rdunae as is because it is perfect. The bad lume of seikosis pissed me off. The rdunae logo is fixed with a single dial foot....anyway...look at some close ups of the rdunae, the insert, the large pip, the bezel look, the visible crown tunnel, the lock crown, the correct crown guards, down to the noches underneath the bezel and last but not least a double dome sapphire crystal. And the hands are fantastic.....also rdunae watches come adjusted. Did I mention the chocolate bar strap?
I just bought this steeldive and have had the same feeling every time i wear something else. Very neat watch, would like to change the dial to green, but seems like there aren't many affordable options in the willard style. And I thought the bezel sounded funny, didn't know it was a wire type nor realize they were such a pain to remove. A shame because I wanted to put a green bezel insert on it eventually
Nice! I have a Seiko modern version because I did not want a chinese case (Steeldive) so I bought the expensive Seiko and the 6R movement had terrible rate and beat error. When I removed the case back to regulate, it was inscribed with "Case made in china". I expect it was cased in china and they could not be bothered to regulate the unipressive 6R movement. I think yours is a better quality watch then my real abet chinese factory Seiko.
After watching your channel I took the plunge and got myself ali parts to build the closest thing I could manage from an SKX007. Its crude its rough, but its ticking away with only +7s a day and I cannot take it off, even with the rubber strap as my jubilee is still to arrive
Man, great job mate! Wow what a difference just a dial & hands make. I’m not normally a fan of ‘Feikos’ (I’d say just get a San Martin or buy Seiko’s reissue). But I love the passion and dedication that goes into this, and it’s why I watch the channel! Wasn’t gonna watch the whole video but the emotional rollercoaster & stress of seeing an amateur try this is exciting (I do some modding too and an WELL familiar with how stressful some moments can be😂). Is that an Australian beech btw?
Would be nice a tutorial, you’re a master on this, I want to do the same on my steeldive, but I’m a little afraid about using glue, I want to know very much about that process . BTW amazing video.
A truly great and inspiring video... except for the whole glossy Seiko logo thing. Couldn't you have just frosted the existing logo with some 4000 grit paper? It seems like such a fuss to switch them out. Thank you again for the excellent watch modding tutorials!
Have ordered the Rdundae R2X following some comments on here and will look at getting a Seikosis dial in good time. Would love to change the waffle strap it comes with to a Seichu braided strap but they seem to be rarer than hens teeth unless someone's got a source they would like to throw my way. Great video. Great watch.
Maybe you could give us an update. Did you run into problems? Is there a spacer under the dial? I really would appreciate your feedback. Thank you very much in advance, kindest regards, Uwe
Another great mod. Might give this one a shot myself. Question.... I've got quite a few mods now and I don't wear all of them. It's time to clear some out before I start more...
great vid but i realised something: why not just use a fibreglass pen brush for coses brushing to brush the finish on? Simply tape off around it and law a gentle brushing in either direction. but again props bro to the effort an time you went to for us to do this!!!
Im really interested in seeing you try and brush or rough up the logo from a Seikosis dial. I thought lightly going over mine with a silver marker pen might work but I'm not brave enough to try.
Maybe push the ‘I’ a bit to the left? 15:15 it looks like it’s leaning to the right. Otherwise I’d say it looks good I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The watch is stunning
i have two steeldive and the SPB151J1 seiko. the seiko have a aluminium insert, and i 1 million time prefer it to the ceramic glossy one. Plus, the metal texture and color is very different than the steedive. it's more grey, look almost like titanium compared to the 316L steel. I have no idea how they get this finish, and i am blacksmith, I know steels lol ;) . i love my steedives but now i have the seiko, it's hard to wear the steedive. and you right yours looks close to the original. the biggest visible difference is the position of the crown. on the original 6105-8110l, it is really at 4. i guess on the namoki, the crown position was correct. and considering the price of your upgrade, i'm not sure taking the steeldive was a better choice than the € 80 namoki case as you changed everything else.
It looks great just the way it is. Maybe a thicker hand set? I would leave the logo alone, because you'll likely make it worse if you keep messing with it. Very nice watch...
What a fantastic job you did, the watch looks superb. I would like to get one of these built, would the face fit the Rectangular Rdunae 61005 8110 version? That looks like a rrissuevis so good, except its missing the Seiko logo
If the Rdunae uses an NH35 then it should fit just fine. Just make sure you pick the correct crown position dial for the case. (if thats what you meant by "would the face fit")
Thanks for bringing it to my attention, I can't remember If I looked on their site at the time of this bild (for all I know I mentioned it in the video, its been months so I've already forgotten) but Its nice to see it there now. If its a 4.1 O'Clock crown position then it would be great for a movement swap from the steeldive into it. It doesn't say on the listing what crown position it is. Anyway, thanks again for telling me. I'll bookmark it for the future.
Thanks, here's the equipment I use: Mic: Neumann TLM102 Camera: Samsung NX500 Lenses: Pentax-M 50mm f1.4 Fast Prime Lens Pentax PK Mount With NX adapter (For the talking on camera shots) \ 16-50mm Lens (the stock lens that comes with it) For the top down shots I use a generic 4k webcam with C-mount lenses: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09S347GQ8
Thanks! Yeah, I've got another collaboration with NamokiMods coming up where I take a look at their BB58 homage Pre-Build. As well as building a gold version of one myself using their parts. It might be a while before the video goes out since I am still waiting on parts and then there's the recording and editing process, but its in the works!
I did try to sand it to a frosted finish but unfortunately they are made of brass, so if you sand it too much it reveals the orange brass colour. Although it was polished silver before, I tried sanding it off camera and unfortunately ruined it. You can see what i mean at 45:01. If I can get the necessary things together to nickel plate it back to silver I could use it again. Which I would like to do at some point. Thanks for watching btw! I'm glad you enjoy my videos.
@@28lucky16 I had a damaged OEM SNZH55 dial that I took it from. So the best way that I can think of to get OEM logos would be buying damaged vintage dials (with a good condition logo) of the same size and hoping the dimensions of the logo is the same as what you need.
@@28lucky16 My honest answer is: no I don't. The only way that I've tried with some success is by removing the logo from the dial, and laying it down on some high grit sand paper (2000 or 3000 grit) and just gently rubbing it against it with just the weight of your finger on it and moving it in either a linear or circular motion to scuff the surface, but it won't necessarily produce a perfect uniform matte finish. Maybe some kind of light and very fine grain sand blasting? The problem is they're only very thinly coated before you get to the brass colour underneath. I did try with a fiberglass pen but it literally didn't do much of anything to it, in fact it can even smooth the surface, so avoid that. The only other thought is some kind of jewelry laser that can perfectly, and completely level, retexture the surface without removing too much material to reveal the brass but that's out of my league.
paint it with a silver marker ? or like a clear coat for a new finish ? just guessing here.. maybe you can try it with the logo you sanded. Would like to hear your findings on the next video . again a great watch. thanks
It's been a while, but I think at the time it was to do with price and lume quality. And since MonsterWatches hands were a known quantity to me, I opted for them instead. Although after doing the "budget" 6105 build after this one, I actually preferred the wider Steeldive hands that went on that, especially after I relumed them to match perfectly. My one minor nitpick with the build in this video is the hands are a bit thin (as were the original 6105) and so I like the slightly modern take on my budget 6105 build a bit more.
Cheers Dan, Beautiful job I had already bought the steel dive 1970. When searching for original 6105 dial I accidently bought the dial that said 150 "Proof instead of resistance. Besides that I left the nh35 movement bought the clear back and yes good fit. Thanks for leading the way! By the way what was the 6105 proof dial used on?
NOTE: I tried to replace the bezel insert on this watch with an aluminum insert that matches the original 6105 and unfortunately you CANNOT. These steeldive1970 bezel inserts are thick ceramic inserts with a stepped shape to them to fit within the bezel. The Aluminum inserts are FLAT so they rest on the outer ring of the case that the crystal presses into, so flat inserts simply ARE NOT compatible with these watches. I tried to mold the original insert to create a riser for a flat insert but unfortunately I don't have the necessary resources to do it properly and ended up breaking my original insert.
Hopefully this information helps anyone thinking of swapping the insert. Especially since to do it effectively (Without damaging or altering the functionality of the bezel) you need to pop out the crystal to get the insert out. So I'd recommend just sticking with the original insert.
@@allenwalters8812 Happy to hear it! I contacted Seikosis to try and get another logo, and although they said they would check, I never got a followup response.
Yeah never mind. The guy told me it was matte and it looked like it through the paper it was wrapped in but when I took it out it wasn't at all. Don't care to be lied to like that.@@ItsAnotherWatch
@@allenwalters8812 That's disappointing. I must admit, although the dials themselves are the best out there, the service isn't great to be honest. Sorry that it wasn't matte finish.
It looks so good but man, it DESERVES a signed crown!
I've been looking at making a Willard tribute myself and decided to go down this route and use the Steeldive case, movement and hands, rather than buying them all separately on Ali. Means I don't have to mess about cutting a crown stem to fit on my first ever build too 😂
I'd say leave the logo as it is... nice job
I've watched most of your videos and I can say, listening to you "waffle on" is just fine. I've learned more about building watches just from your random thoughts. Keep it up!!
You do a phenomenal Long John Baldry Robotnik impression!
Thank you!
Changing the logo on a dial is a level of horological exploration that I will leave to this gentleman haha
Had to say you have been an inspiration to me, one of the best youtubers explaining how to build watches and how to source parts, very in depth and concise love the fact you don't give up due to your frustration's and thanks to your mistakes I'm on my 7th successful watch build. Once again cheers buddy 😊😊👍👍
I admire the fact that you didn’t swear once during the whole dial swap. I would have been effing and jeffing through the whole thing. Well done.
As for changing the finish of the glossy logo to a brushed look while it's on the dial, the only thing I can think of is using a bit of peg wood, sanding it flat on an angle and glue a strip of 1000 grit sandpaper on that flat end. Then you just gently rub it back and forth as straight as you can on the logo. It's how I polish hands, albeit out of the case and with a bit of felt and polishing compound instead.
I am into homage watches because there’s no way I can afford nor would pay those prices. I like the idea of modding and that is how I stumbled onto your channel. I binged your videos and love them. Your builds are real and not chopped up with sharp editing to make it look like your some expert builder that never faces problems. Your videos have totally inspired me to jump in and take a stab at modding. Your videos are packed with lots of information and humor, very clear and honest. A great job mate, keep it up.
Dan, your watch modding skills are simply exceptional! Your attention to detail and precision in your work is truly impressive. You have an incredible ability to transform ordinary watches into unique and beautiful pieces that reflect your artistic vision and expertise. Your passion for watch modding shines through in every project you undertake, and the results are always stunning. You are a true master of your craft, and your work is admired by many. Keep up the amazing work!👍
Wonderful! So much tension I need a coffee! But this video has confirmed I’ll buy everything and just pay my local watchmaker to assemble it.
Nice job Daniel. I like your builds the most from those others that I follow because your process is truly honest...you make the same mistakes that I have done...others "cut away" and do not show you the mis-steps. BRAVO!!! Thanks again for your honesty
Phil the Architect Watchmaker
I’m here because terminal montage
Wonder how it went down tho
I have done a bezel insert swap on a steeldive willard, flip the watch upside down and soak the bezel in nail polish remover, just use a little nail polish remover, just enough to cover the bezel. Pick off the old bezel insert, remove the retention wire, pop off the bezel, apply some silicone grease on the underside of the bezel where it interfaces with the click spring. Re-apply bezel onto watch and click spring, rotate it to make sure it is on right. Re-insert the retention spring, then put some silicone grease on that. Use jewlery adhesive to glue on the new bezel insert. I recommend the Tandorio watch bezel as it will fit the steeldive case, and the lume is the correct color and the whole thing just looks more original to the classic willard.
I love watching your enthusiasm for modding watches. I’ve learnt about what’s available out there so one day I have a try myself. Thanks for the videos, keep em coming.
Me too
Looks good on your wrist 😊clean look 👌 I think you deserved the beach after that. I have a addiesdive and when I got it it looked so clean clear and beautiful and I should wear it more often but I have started to realise that are a while some watches irritate my skin. 😢 but hey I have over 100 pieces so lots to choose from hence I always double Don which I think I started. 🤔 😊
To get rid of the shiny finish on that logo WITHOUT removing it from the dial, I would use my good ol' tapping trick. With a small piece of 600 grit sandpaper placed on your index finger tip, firmly and steadily as possible start tapping along the logo in sections until you approach a nice, even "matte" finish. It certainly will take some patience and finish will be sandblasted-like instead of brushed. If logo is plated, this is the trick to use cause it's kinda less aggressive than rubbing it with sandpaper. Surrounding area of the logo must be protected to avoid making a mess instead of art, obviously.
What a nice mod yet again! Your videos got me into modding myself.
Love watching your modding Dan and this particular watch is my favourite so far . Great job.
Damn Dan. I found Seiko mods and your channel only a few days ago and now I've already watched all your videos. You better step your game up mate.
I’d say leave as is, the watch is already beautiful and you put a lot of effort and budget doing it, don’t risk it, you may scratch the dial trying to amend the logo. Always an inspiration watching your videos, I did myself an SPB207 following you, keep up the nice work and take care mate!
Finally another 6105/turtle build. This inspires me to just get started on my build to be my first build. Saving up for the parts.
Love the watch, just gorgeous.
I built one like this in 2021 using a Rdunae 6105 as a base. It has the most accurate case with a pure 4 o’clock date, and 19mm lug width like the original. I bought a Seikosis dial and hands with the short second hand. Replaced the crown with one with the ‘lock’ arrow in the correct direction. Then I bought a Klien type 3 crystal, which I had to reduce the diameter by 0.25mm all around. Dial - kept the Seikosis logo, but used a couple of coats of fine misting humbrol clear laquer to Matt the logo and dial. The result is brilliant on an uncle Seiko strap.
May I ask where you got the crown to fit the rdunae case?
Nice video as always, you’ve achieved a good classic look. I went down the spb151 route with my 1970 and like you say the hands are a bit wider and easier to see if like me your eyes are ageing. Both great looking in slightly different ways .
That’s a project I have in mind and now seeing your work I’ll go ahead and buy the steel dive and Seiko gear and use your video as a reference! As always your work is fabulous! Cheers !
You are an artist and a horology connoisseur 👍.
Can't believe the price of those dials tho I could buy a very decent watch for that. I did try to take off a bezel from a watch didn't realise the bezel gear would brake and I've not Been able to find a replacement one. When starting out tying repairs you always seem to mess it up but you do learn from the mistakes it just isn't easy. That's why it is costly to send them off. I was quoted over£300 to get it fixed which is way more than the watch cost 😮 so it is still broken. But it was a invicta legend which isn't available any more or atleast I could not find one. 😢 but I did learn from it. 😊
Nice watch. Thanks for sharing
Great video mate your steeldive looks insane, probably the best bang for buck homage watch in years
Watch modding takes an extreme/excruciating amount of patience.
I made a cushion with an egg ring, foam and a fine micromesh cloth. And some glue. Easy peasy stuff works great !
The Rdunae is the nearest to the original with 4 o'clock crown, 19mm lugs and the right profile crystal. Also the hands are near perfect. Granted its 50 quid more but looks so good. They also got the bezel profile right.
Agree !
Just ordered one, looks good, let's hope it turns up!
God Bless You! 🤧 I hope you are feeling better!
Haha, thanks. It was just a bit of dust. When I was editing the video I found myself laughing at the sneeze and decided to leave it in.
God I actually have missed watching these
Great built! I got an identical i think dial for Spain on eBay and the results were the same. Very beautiful
Nicely done mate! Super attention to detail which I very much appreciate. I'm about to start a Willard build of my own so tks for posting 💯🤙
following your footsteps i also got motivated to do my own rendition on the Tudor Black bay .......Wish me luck...
Will do. Where did you get the case dial movement from?
Please enlighten us! I'd like to try a BB build too!
@@Tom_H327i am trying to reply to this thread ....already did it like 5 times but don't know why my comments just keeps on vanishing
@@Tom_H327 If you do not mind ,you can ask this same question on my email that I have on the description of my channel....i will be glad to guide your through
Check out Rdunae (Retangula) Willard - absolute one to one with the original, although it's pricy. They do have og lock writing on the crown, aluminium bezel, sizes are exact same as the original, even its 19mm lug instead of 20
Very nice job
I've watched this like 5 times i guess
Now i wana mod my Steeldive
Quick Gavin, give me your 6105 and I promise to spare half of your friends when I'm King of the Watches!
Man that was cool. Talented. Awesome.
Nice dial and hands. My 2 favorites.
Great job, looks fantastic! I also agree that you should've considered the Rdunae watch as a base. I think that would have given the final product that little extra touch. You did say you like ceramic bezel inserts, though, and the 19mm lugs do turn some people off. There seems to be a lot more options for 19mm straps out there these days than there used to be, but I'm not so sure on the bracelets.
I have the same thought. Mine is in a 'Semdu' brand willard, the cheapest at the time just before the Steeldive 1970 came out. Recently a similar to RDUNAE case set (from FEIYASHI) is available for $43.
That’s a sexy watch mate. Great work.
Cheers for documenting the S-logo change with dial feet, glue and all. BTW, 2 years ago seikosis sent me a dial with a non shiny logo. I would sell the steel dive and grab a rdunae R2X. I am wearing the rdunae as is because it is perfect. The bad lume of seikosis pissed me off. The rdunae logo is fixed with a single dial foot....anyway...look at some close ups of the rdunae, the insert, the large pip, the bezel look, the visible crown tunnel, the lock crown, the correct crown guards, down to the noches underneath the bezel and last but not least a double dome sapphire crystal. And the hands are fantastic.....also rdunae watches come adjusted. Did I mention the chocolate bar strap?
Looks bloody good might have a go myself. It reminds me of the reissue with the 8L35
Do you have a new video in the works? Your channel is by far my favourite Seiko mod channel.
I just bought this steeldive and have had the same feeling every time i wear something else. Very neat watch, would like to change the dial to green, but seems like there aren't many affordable options in the willard style. And I thought the bezel sounded funny, didn't know it was a wire type nor realize they were such a pain to remove. A shame because I wanted to put a green bezel insert on it eventually
Looks amazing. If you ever decide to sale it. I’ll buy it.
Jedi skills are improving sir...
Nice! I have a Seiko modern version because I did not want a chinese case (Steeldive) so I bought the expensive Seiko and the 6R movement had terrible rate and beat error. When I removed the case back to regulate, it was inscribed with "Case made in china". I expect it was cased in china and they could not be bothered to regulate the unipressive 6R movement. I think yours is a better quality watch then my real abet chinese factory Seiko.
After watching your channel I took the plunge and got myself ali parts to build the closest thing I could manage from an SKX007. Its crude its rough, but its ticking away with only +7s a day and I cannot take it off, even with the rubber strap as my jubilee is still to arrive
These dial are so fragile and I have messed up a couple but not tried to change the logo. Nice job to make it work so well.
u did a nice job and u are getting better as a watch builder
Excellent work there👍
Amazing build
Fantastic build. I would switch the insert to an aluminum, why not make it look exactly like the original.
Cracking good job
Man, great job mate! Wow what a difference just a dial & hands make.
I’m not normally a fan of ‘Feikos’ (I’d say just get a San Martin or buy Seiko’s reissue). But I love the passion and dedication that goes into this, and it’s why I watch the channel! Wasn’t gonna watch the whole video but the emotional rollercoaster & stress of seeing an amateur try this is exciting (I do some modding too and an WELL familiar with how stressful some moments can be😂). Is that an Australian beech btw?
I'm glad that you found it exciting enough to watch the whole thing! I appreciate your viewership. Its a beach in Cornwall in the south of England.
@@ItsAnotherWatch it’s 3:30 in the U.K. haha. Funnily I also did some Friday night watch modding.
Top notch vids mate
I just ordered the steeldive sterile with no logo, great watch for the price
bro your vids are fire!!!!! keep posting!
Would be nice a tutorial, you’re a master on this, I want to do the same on my steeldive, but I’m a little afraid about using glue, I want to know very much about that process . BTW amazing video.
Top quality content my man! Keep it up! 👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻
A truly great and inspiring video... except for the whole glossy Seiko logo thing. Couldn't you have just frosted the existing logo with some 4000 grit paper? It seems like such a fuss to switch them out.
Thank you again for the excellent watch modding tutorials!
Beautiful watch
Have ordered the Rdundae R2X following some comments on here and will look at getting a Seikosis dial in good time. Would love to change the waffle strap it comes with to a Seichu braided strap but they seem to be rarer than hens teeth unless someone's got a source they would like to throw my way. Great video. Great watch.
Maybe you could give us an update. Did you run into problems? Is there a spacer under the dial? I really would appreciate your feedback. Thank you very much in advance, kindest regards, Uwe
@@u.k.9412 will do,I'm not there yet. Got a Seichu strap but it's 20mm rather than 19mm of the Rdunae so it's going on something else.
The crown itself is spring loaded as part of the screwdown design
Good Job. I like the effort you put on those mods. Not everytime my beer but. Big uP!
Another great mod. Might give this one a shot myself. Question.... I've got quite a few mods now and I don't wear all of them. It's time to clear some out before I start more...
Amazing, great, if you have one available, I'll buy it
great vid but i realised something: why not just use a fibreglass pen brush for coses brushing to brush the finish on? Simply tape off around it and law a gentle brushing in either direction. but again props bro to the effort an time you went to for us to do this!!!
Im really interested in seeing you try and brush or rough up the logo from a Seikosis dial. I thought lightly going over mine with a silver marker pen might work but I'm not brave enough to try.
I know I’ve seen some 6105’s in past with the pt5000 and I’d use that
A double dome sapphire glass crystal and a uncle seiko waffle strap will look on that.
36:01 Me: [loud external screaming]
Maybe push the ‘I’ a bit to the left? 15:15 it looks like it’s leaning to the right.
Otherwise I’d say it looks good I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The watch is stunning
i have two steeldive and the SPB151J1 seiko. the seiko have a aluminium insert, and i 1 million time prefer it to the ceramic glossy one. Plus, the metal texture and color is very different than the steedive. it's more grey, look almost like titanium compared to the 316L steel. I have no idea how they get this finish, and i am blacksmith, I know steels lol ;) . i love my steedives but now i have the seiko, it's hard to wear the steedive.
and you right yours looks close to the original. the biggest visible difference is the position of the crown. on the original 6105-8110l, it is really at 4. i guess on the namoki, the crown position was correct. and considering the price of your upgrade, i'm not sure taking the steeldive was a better choice than the € 80 namoki case as you changed everything else.
It looks great just the way it is. Maybe a thicker hand set? I would leave the logo alone, because you'll likely make it worse if you keep messing with it. Very nice watch...
Is NE15 really worth It?, Thats the thing iam wondering.
What a fantastic job you did, the watch looks superb. I would like to get one of these built, would the face fit the Rectangular Rdunae 61005 8110 version? That looks like a rrissuevis so good, except its missing the Seiko logo
If the Rdunae uses an NH35 then it should fit just fine. Just make sure you pick the correct crown position dial for the case. (if thats what you meant by "would the face fit")
I’d have taped off the dial or used protectors and used a fiberglass brush tool to brush the shiny seiko logo.
Crystal Times makes a better more close case
Thanks for bringing it to my attention, I can't remember If I looked on their site at the time of this bild (for all I know I mentioned it in the video, its been months so I've already forgotten) but Its nice to see it there now. If its a 4.1 O'Clock crown position then it would be great for a movement swap from the steeldive into it. It doesn't say on the listing what crown position it is.
Anyway, thanks again for telling me. I'll bookmark it for the future.
lov it, your sound and video quality is outstanding, what mic and camera do you use?
Thanks, here's the equipment I use:
Mic: Neumann TLM102
Camera: Samsung NX500
Lenses: Pentax-M 50mm f1.4 Fast Prime Lens Pentax PK Mount With NX adapter (For the talking on camera shots) \ 16-50mm Lens (the stock lens that comes with it)
For the top down shots I use a generic 4k webcam with C-mount lenses: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09S347GQ8
What a great mod! Anything new coming up Dan?
Thanks! Yeah, I've got another collaboration with NamokiMods coming up where I take a look at their BB58 homage Pre-Build. As well as building a gold version of one myself using their parts. It might be a while before the video goes out since I am still waiting on parts and then there's the recording and editing process, but its in the works!
@@ItsAnotherWatch That sounds like a great project! Can't wait to see it, hope everything goes well 👍
just my 2 cents would it not have been easier to sand the original seiko logo from glossy black to brushed. love your videos.
I did try to sand it to a frosted finish but unfortunately they are made of brass, so if you sand it too much it reveals the orange brass colour. Although it was polished silver before, I tried sanding it off camera and unfortunately ruined it. You can see what i mean at 45:01. If I can get the necessary things together to nickel plate it back to silver I could use it again. Which I would like to do at some point.
Thanks for watching btw! I'm glad you enjoy my videos.
@@ItsAnotherWatchwhere did you buy oem logo to replace one? Tell me please ❤
@@28lucky16 I had a damaged OEM SNZH55 dial that I took it from. So the best way that I can think of to get OEM logos would be buying damaged vintage dials (with a good condition logo) of the same size and hoping the dimensions of the logo is the same as what you need.
@@ItsAnotherWatch thanks, do You know how can I make an existing logo matte?
@@28lucky16 My honest answer is: no I don't.
The only way that I've tried with some success is by removing the logo from the dial, and laying it down on some high grit sand paper (2000 or 3000 grit) and just gently rubbing it against it with just the weight of your finger on it and moving it in either a linear or circular motion to scuff the surface, but it won't necessarily produce a perfect uniform matte finish. Maybe some kind of light and very fine grain sand blasting? The problem is they're only very thinly coated before you get to the brass colour underneath. I did try with a fiberglass pen but it literally didn't do much of anything to it, in fact it can even smooth the surface, so avoid that. The only other thought is some kind of jewelry laser that can perfectly, and completely level, retexture the surface without removing too much material to reveal the brass but that's out of my league.
Have you considered swapping out the bezel mechanism and insert? I think that would make it a perfect recreation of the 6105
paint it with a silver marker ? or like a clear coat for a new finish ? just guessing here.. maybe you can try it with the logo you sanded. Would like to hear your findings on the next video . again a great watch. thanks
Should have used the rdunae willard base.
Strangely, when I ordered a Seikosis resist dial, he sent me one with a non-shiny logo, so I think it might be best to tell him what you need?
Noice!
Thanks for sharing this Daniel. Quite curious, is there a reason why you didn't opt of the Seikosis handset? Thanks.
It's been a while, but I think at the time it was to do with price and lume quality. And since MonsterWatches hands were a known quantity to me, I opted for them instead. Although after doing the "budget" 6105 build after this one, I actually preferred the wider Steeldive hands that went on that, especially after I relumed them to match perfectly. My one minor nitpick with the build in this video is the hands are a bit thin (as were the original 6105) and so I like the slightly modern take on my budget 6105 build a bit more.
Nice mods as usual! Can you leave the link that you got the new watch hand presser? That looks great!
Sure thing! I've updated the video description with the link for you.
@@ItsAnotherWatch Thank you. I got it!
Cheers Dan, Beautiful job I had already bought the steel dive 1970. When searching for original 6105 dial I accidently bought the dial that said 150 "Proof instead of resistance. Besides that I left the nh35 movement bought the clear back and yes good fit. Thanks for leading the way! By the way what was the 6105 proof dial used on?
Hello. Where did you find that seiko OEM logo? Can you share link please?
When next video? Looking forward to any project of yours.
Need a lume pip bazel for this one