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Rebuilding Front End Suspension 2005-2010 Chrysler 300 RWD
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- čas přidán 26. 03. 2021
- In this video, I show how I rebuild the front end suspension on a 2007 Chrysler 300 Touring Edition. This model is RWD and should be the same process for all Chrysler 300 models between 2005-2010. Steps will also be similar for other dodge/Chrysler vehicles around this model year.
Prior to changing the suspension, the car had lots of clunking and squealing noises coming from the suspension being worn out. Car is 14 years old and had 133,000 miles on the suspension prior to being changed.
Purchased the full suspension kit for around $450-$500. Shop quoted $2,000+ for the same kind of front end rebuild, so for 1/4 of the price this video will show you how to change it yourself at home and save some money while learning a few more handy skills about your car.
When doing the rebuild I used all of the old OEM nuts and bolts that came off instead of the ones that came with the kit. The old nuts went on much easier and felt very secured on the new parts.
Link to Parts & Tools Used -
Link to Front Suspension Kit -
amzn.to/3C72wxn
Link to Daytona Low Profile Floor Jack -
amzn.to/3Vqp7M1
Link to Jack Stands -
amzn.to/3VuB0AL
Link to Pipe Wrench -
amzn.to/3I4XaGN
Link to Jaw Puller -
amzn.to/3PYPSWN
Link to Vice Grips -
amzn.to/3Q1yVuV
Link to Breaker Bar -
amzn.to/3vqHhTv
Link to Large Ratchet -
amzn.to/3C7zCgE
Link to 10mm Socket -
amzn.to/3Wv6E2t
Link to 13mm Socket -
amzn.to/3YWKtnu
Link to 18mm Socket -
amzn.to/3YWXJZe
Link to 7/8 Socket -
amzn.to/3WN6H9t
Link to Flathead Screwdriver -
amzn.to/3Z6Kt4m
Link to Tie Rod Pickler Fork -
amzn.to/3WK7sA2
Link to Needle Nose Pliers -
amzn.to/3GmvSKH
Front Suspension Kit - amzn.to/3C72wxn
Daytona Low Profile Floor Jack - amzn.to/3Vqp7M1
Jack Stands - amzn.to/3VuB0AL
Pipe Wrench - amzn.to/3I4XaGN
Jaw Puller - amzn.to/3PYPSWN
Vice Grips - amzn.to/3Q1yVuV
Breaker Bar - amzn.to/3vqHhTv
Large Ratchet - amzn.to/3C7zCgE
10mm Socket - amzn.to/3Wv6E2t
13mm Socket - amzn.to/3YWKtnu
18mm Socket - amzn.to/3YWXJZe
7/8 Socket - amzn.to/3WN6H9t
Flathead Screwdriver - amzn.to/3Z6Kt4m
Tie Rod Pickler Fork - amzn.to/3WK7sA2
Needle Nose Pliers - amzn.to/3GmvSKH
Working on my 08 dodge charger rwd now. This was a huge help thank you.
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This is exactly what I want to see in a tutorial video, which makes a difference between an "ok" video, and a video that is awesome! Yes, showing us what tools, sockets, and other equipment is a great way to begin a job like this.
Thanks for taking the time to show us the tool selection for this job.
Thank you! Appreciate the positive feedback. Have always used CZcams for DIY projects in the past, so trying my best to make my videos how I would want to see them laid out
Good video, I have the same car, same year and it’s the same color as yours. I need to change my passenger side outer tie rod but after watching this video I think I will get the rest of the parts like you and have at it.
Thank you , very educational. Currently working towards ordering the front suspension kit
Good luck! Hope the video helps
Thanks. Thanks. I'm learning little by little.
Excellent work! Thanks for sharing. 🤌🏾
Good video. I'm just surprised you didn't replace the rear lower control arms as well. I'm replacing both of mine (As I replaced everything else) and try to put a stop to all the excess thumping, and bumping in the front end I hear when I drive over bumps. The rubber bushings are all worn on the rear control arms on my 14' Charger.
nice one, doing this job this month. Only thing I can add is maybe get a impact wrench and some deep sockets to suit...
Excellent video!
Awesome video man!! Thanks for giving me the courage to do this myself lol wish me luck!
You got this!
Flawless, most descriptive and cleanest video...very useful. Thanks!
Don't lie Eric it's a good video but not completely flawless
Great video I was able to successfully rebuild my entire driving side racket steering on my 2015 300 C. My only issue was pressing the ball joint in. Took it for alignment and it’s all good. Thank you for the great instructional content.
How long did it take you? Do you recall
@@DUIRecords lol it took me 24 hrs I had to press the ball joint out and in, that was my biggest struggle. Just take your time.
@@asey9508what did you use to press the ball joint?
@@ValleauFamilyAdventures I rented a ball joint press from auto zone, and was able to press it out. It was much easier pressing it out than pressing it in lol.
Nicely done Sir I have a 07 Chrysler Aspen I'm looking n 2 this for my ride
I have a 2006 300c single owner with 269K. I have rebuilt the engine, transmission, replaced every mechanical part on there, but suspension. I have already replaced upper control arms and rotors as well. But now I am doing shocks struts and have a 10 piece suspension kit that covers all the other arms and links that I haven't done already. After tomorrow I should have a smooth ride.
And I can pretty much guarantee that I will be successful thanks to your video. =) I am too cheap to pay for alldata
How did it go?
great video, cant wait to do this in the driveway while its 20 degrees outside
Im doing this right now at 1 am its 29 degrees out in ny fml
🤣🤣🤣
Great video dude.
Thank you!
this video is extremely helpful, but a lot of my bolts are seized up and stuck so definitely not as smooth for me as it was in the video
Best part of this whole video is that it shows how to do it without a lift lol
Yep that was my intention is to show how it can be done in a garage with basic tools and by an average joe like myself.
Thanks for the informative video, it looks way easier than the engine.
Glad the video helped 👍
I just brought 90% of this suspension but I pad 1000 from Napa. Wish I had the tool to do this myself but I don’t know squat about cars!
Awesome video, what happened with the rear shock installation?
Outstanding! You’re definitely not a lazy guy, and I wish I had your luck/skill getting front end’s apart, especially the sway bar links. A question if you can: What happens if you tighten the upper control arm bolts with the wheel up? I only had time to do the passenger side upper arm on my Charger because all the bolts took so long to deal with, and that’s what I did. Now it’s rattling like hell so I think I’m gonna rebuild everything. It’s got 190K miles on it.
If you tighten the control arm all the way when it’s in the air it just adds some extra strain on the bushings once it’s lowered down. One thing to check for rattling would to make sure the sway bar links are tightened down all the way and the rubber sway bushings are still in good shape. Noticed a clanking sound after driving it around for a little while and it ended up just being the sway bar links weren’t fully tightened down and that fixed it for me
That was perfect!!!!! Only thing i seen that was unnecessary was taking off the caliper and rotor. Just leaving the upper arm unbolted and letting it swing outward, would give you the extra space needed for the lower control arm removal. Great job still buddy!
Thanks man! Yeah I do see how that could make it easier. Really only need to pull off the rotor if changing out the wheel hub/bearing too
I do the rotor and brakes replacement as well doing these repairs
nice you saved like 2000 bucks doing this yourself
Right
My mechanic is charging me $600 and I still think it’s expensive
@@reptileescape3619damn just for the front end? I think $300 max for the job but I think I’m going to attempt it myself like in this video. But replace all except upper control arm and strut
I bet that kit will fit my 2005 dodge magnum.
Yeah it should be very similar if not the same for the dodge magnum
Nice video. My 2006 chrysler has some squeaking when I go over speed bumps. What part of the suspension do you think it is?
Thanks
If i replaced the complete struts on front but still makes noise like i didnt, feeling bumps, what could it be? Ty
hey my husband is in the process of doing this and this video is great as far as the ball joints do we get them pressed in or we just put them in.. sorry if this sounds dumb to some but i need to know. thanks.
Glad this video is helping with the process. Unfortunately I didn’t end up doing the ball joints in the video, but yes you will want to press the old ones out and then press the new ones in. You can rent a ball joint press from any local auto parts store like autozone and it should be fairly easy to do. Press will go right over the new ball joint when it’s put in the control arm and then tighten and press it in until it’s fully seated into the hole. Hope this helps!
will this work on a 2007 dodge hemi magnum
I need to do this ASAP...one side Prolly gonna take me a week tho
How long does this usually take and if you went to a mechanic about how much would this run you?
What is the other piece called that looks like a control arm?
How wide of a tire do you run front and back
Danke
How’s the quality on the trq parts do they last a while?
Need a good kit for a 2006 magnum
Why are the bolts in the top control arm so close to the tires? Is it normal?
What about the lower ball joint?
Is it connected to the lower control arm?
No it's connected to the knuckle. You need press to remove and put new ones in. Maybe he didn't replace them or had a shop do it.
I had to fight so hard to get mine out had to break out the torch.
I used a sledge hammer and beat the sheet out of it
Is this the same for a 2007 SRT8?
i was having cluking coming out of my front end and i checked every thing out all my bushings ball joints shit like that were fine what i found is that the sub frame connecting bolt head snapped off. i started searching challenger web sights and found alot of people having this issue. behind the tire theres a peice of tape like substance glued over a body access hole that tape falls off and moisture gets in, travels down the bolt and rots the bolt as well as sub frame from inside. its not just challengers also chargers magnums on lady even said her van had this problem. if your sub frame is rotting the thru bolt has two sets of threads on them the bolt is like 8 inches long and near the head of bolt are threads that are supposed to thread to sub frame. now with head snapped off i was working on ways to get that bolt out cause dodge will tell you you need a new subframe (engine cradle) cause threads are stripped. or they wont tell you and change bolt that might last a while but without those bottom threads,the bolt is helpless. in this video i can see the bolt on the side hes working on but could be the other side. on my car its the passenger side thats bad but when im driving it sounds like the drivers side. so im working on three different ways of fixing this problem without changing sub frame dodge will charge u thousands.a new cradle five fifty to seven hundred dollars. n then u better hope u got the right one. the first thing i will do is try to drill a hole in the bolt ane use a e-z out type bolt remover also lubercate the top of bolt thru the window behind wheel. if that dont work i will see if theres a reverse tap and bolt that i can tap in and since its reverse as i tighten tapped bolt it should loosen frame bolt. next i will cut the window open to get to nut which has a locking washer on it (not a lock washer) i had to stick my camera in the hand hole n take photos to see in there. now if the threads on the bottom are stripped i will try to weld the washer that comes with the bolt on to the bolt then weld the washer to the body after in stalling it. i might just skip all that and weld the sub frame to the frame. but that bolt will still be in there dangling around. i dont think it will make much noise if the frame is not bouncing around. if anybody is having this problem contact the national highway traffic safety administration 1-888-327-4236 they are in charge of recalls. most times you have to change the engine cradle due to accidents and they got bent. most likely this is what caused your accident.
I’d love to see you put up a video on this job.
Any updates?
I was trying to find how to beef up or improve a Chrysler 300 suspension. Apparently you can't I can't find anything. What they put on it now is crap
damn mine look wayy worse than the ones you pulled off. might have to do this next after the water pump and timing belt
i have the awd version which is 1 piece lower control arm. besides that difference do you think its the same? and what do i not need to do if im not replacing the strut?
Yeah I would assume it should be the same process besides that. You’ll need everything besides just the 13mm used for the top bolts on the strut
how long did this suspension kit last
Hey what size are your wheels ?
Hey you did not replace the lower ball joints
What to do if my suspension is about 15 years old and extremely rusty? In desperate need of help!
One other thing while your at it is replace the Anti-Sway bar bushings (easy)...
How long did it take you to do both sides?
Where are you located? And how much would you charge to do this?
Doesn't cover 2010. Because mine has the swaybar is mounted against the back of the control arm and can't get to both ends of the bolt.
Hello , my car c300 srr8 I saw the right wheel inside not straight knunkle need change or what ?
Same shit. Looking to just replace everything. Then won’t be no hiccups down the line
Where do you purchase the parts ?
Can you tell me full price full ket
👍🏼
I'm 2 full days in doing this and can't even get the old parts off one side. It's definitely a difficult job!
Hope you were able to get it done. I know it’s definitely not an easy job to get the older parts off, especially if there’s any rust involved. Hopefully the video helped some
I have a 2006 300c with bad front end noise, is the car your working on have the same problem, and is what it took to fix?
Yes old suspension made noises when driving and especially when turning. This fixed all those issues
How did the quick strut turn out? Sometimes they are too high and dont last very long. How were the ones you installed?
When i did my whole front end mine sat a little higher but eventually came back down.
So how has the suspension been to u? Now 7months later , thinking of purchasing but I want your review on it also do you travel far or just city driving ?
Suspension feels good and handles like a newer car still. Mostly just do city driving, but put over 10,000+ miles on the new parts since with no issues
@@SwanCanFixItseen ur other comment about the single lower ball joint that you didn’t replace it…. It held well too overtime ? No clunking or anything? I think I’m just going to replace all except upper control arms and struts
how did you remove the lower ball joint
Unfortunately I ended up not removing the lower ball joint for the video since it was still in pretty good condition
any idea if 2013 300c shocks are comaptible with 2005?
I don’t believe that they are, but I am not 100% sure
@@SwanCanFixIt They seem to look exactly the same, found a used pair online for cheap.
No. The lower control arm bushing is of different size starting 2011. The 2005 shock will not fit over/around the 2013 bushing; the 2013 shock will have gap on the 2005 bushing
Link for parts
What's the ft.lb.?
Did you buy these parts seperate or was it a kit or something?
Just added a link in the description to the kit I used in the video 👍🏼
www.1aauto.com/dodge-charger-magnum-chrysler-300-front-and-rear-18-piece-steering-and-suspension-kit/i/1asfk02457?f=1473366&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyaWbgvDF8QIV_wytBh2ruAMpEAQYBSABEgLxufD_BwE
10 months ago. How the suspension doing so far
Suspension is holding up great and still drives and handles like a new car after doing this
Torque specs please
Didn't see where you changed the Spindle ball joint
Ended up not replacing the spindle ball joint from the kit I bought
Did you have to get an alignment after install?
Yes, I do recommend getting an alignment done after doing this
I didn’t see how you got the ball joints in? Did you install them?
No I ended up not installing those since the ones in there were still in pretty good shape
You didn't show the ball joint replacement
Is it sitting up higher than before?
Yeah I would say it’s slightly higher with the newer parts installed. Depending on how worn the old suspension was it will definitely vary
Was it easy enough. How long did it take you .
It took about a weekend and it was fairly straightforward to do as long as you have the right tools for it 👍🏼
Did you grease them up ?
Yes, the inner tie rods came with grease packets in the kit that I applied before installing. Forgot to add that part to the video. The other parts came pre-greased
Yeah should have grease them a little.,
Quick tip bro: Instead of dropping the car, use a jack to get the wheel to about ride height.
Might come off a little abrasive but give us your estimate on how much time this took ya?? I'm 10 hours into it... (doing the other lower control arms, press in ball joints, sway bar bushings as well) and mostly have all the new stuff attached to the car. Press ins are being extreme tho.
Anyone care to throw out a number on time this is supposed to take to rebuild the entire front suspension on this turd- bucket?? I'd be grateful to know. Thnx
Good vid btw
$450!!!???? WOW are those parts good quality, I replace my 2008 upper control arms OEM part purchased on ebay (forget the dealer) but still paid like $500 JUST FOR THOSE 2 PARTS!!!!
Yeah honestly these kits are pretty solid. The car has been driven 10,000+ miles since changing out the old parts and the suspension still feels very tight 👍🏼
these parts didn't look that bad, what was the reason ALL these parts needed to be replaced? Or do you just replace all these when you replace all this when you replace the cabin filter?
Front suspension was clunking and making noises when turning so figured for how cheap this kit was, might as well just change out all the parts while I’m at it instead of guessing what might be causing the problem
@@SwanCanFixIt is this a customer car, or yours?
Hah, without inner and outer tie rods along with upper control arms not included costed me $700 to do everything you did. But I did use moog and Monroe as all my parts and I did use summit racing as rock auto has sent me fake moogs before.
That’s not bad. Better than $2,000+ at the dealership. Yeah Rock auto is good for a budget build more than longevity compared to what else is out there
I didn't see ypu torque anything to proper spec or press out and in new ball joints
Why would he press out brand new ball joints? The new upper arm comes with the ball joint installed like every other upper arm on the planet, and the lower ball joint is also brand new???
What happened to replacing the lower ball joints?
Wow that's cheap in Canada that's 1000, just parts
Your in for saprise soon 1 a auto parts are junk
I stand by 1A auto parts as I too have used plenty of their parts… if their junk, they wouldn’t offer a warranty on them just like Any local parts store….but ur prolly a flea market shopper and buy all your parts from pick n pull
Don't forget to torque. 😂
You bought all of those parts for 450 dollars?!!??!?!?
Yep it was roughly $450-$500 for the parts I bought from 1Aauto. Parts are Chinese, but have been holding up just fine the past 20,000 miles. Much better than how it was previously
@@SwanCanFixIt god dam, thanks
@@SwanCanFixIt do they make noise? I seen a review saying it does
I did this on my 2006 about 3 years ago. Worst front end ever designed.