HydraForce Exhaust Blow Out Kit- FMF Gnarly Pipe
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- čas přidán 16. 08. 2018
- This video shows how I blew a dent out of an FMF Gnarly 2-stroke pipe using a HydraForce hydraulic blow out kit.
O-ring dimensions:
Original: Thickness=3mm; ID=40mm
Modified: Thickness=3.5mm; ID=39mm
2019 KTM 250 EXC TPI with RK TEK Head
2017 KTM 250 EXC with Keihin 38mm + STIC & RK TEK Head
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I plugged one end and filled it with water and then plugged the other. I put the pipe in the freezer and kept an eye on it over two days.........Worked like a charm and 100% safer, no big expense either for special tools
The problem is explaining to your wife what happened to $300 worth of groceries 😂
Just some caution: when you pump up pressure don’t have either bungs pointing towards you
I dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a tool to log back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly lost the account password. I love any assistance you can give me!
@Chris Jaiden Instablaster :)
Just a note that doing this method can cause the header pipe section to "straighten" out on some pipes so be careful not to rush the job and over do the pressure or you might find the pipe mount does align where it used to be once you bolt up the flange.
Thanks so much for the info, including the o ring. You really help out your fellow riders on what tools work so we don't spend money on what doesn't work. Thanks again!
Great video. Always learn something from you.
You're the best 'dentist' i've ever seen! :P
Got this kit, filled up pipe with hot water from my water heater, hot enough that it was hard to hold, pressurised pipe and used a panel beaters hammer to tap the edges of the dents. Worked very good.
(Next time I will use the heat gun on the dents in combination with hot water.)
The pipe remained very hot after the water was drained out. The pipe mounts were still not aligned properly so i clamped the pipe in a vice using an old scaffolding clamp and just pulled on it, trial and error until it aligned perfectly. Now it's like new!
Next time I recommend to use water at room temp. I looked up the properties of steel and initial heating from room temp actually increases the strength of the steel to a maximum strength at 250C. Only when you get to above about 350 degC does it start to get significantly weaker than the strength at room temp. In this more recent video I tried using a hammer around the dent with good results: czcams.com/video/xVGdHsAIqNU/video.html
We made 3 of these in the early 90s. That took dents out. Blocked both ends started to fill with air then hit the dent with a torch. Worked every time no matter how bad
I have a separate video which shows dent removal using heat and compressed air. It works well, but the hydraulic method is faster and risk free (if you carefully bleed all the air from the pipe).
AMAZINGS that works perfect!
Once dent is almost gone, or even during removal, use a small metal hammer a tap lightly near & around sometimes on dent itself and convince it to pop out all the way. Using SLIGHT heat also works to pop out dents completely. Overheating could be dangerous so be very careful.
I have a more recent video here in which I use a hammer to to more fully remove a dent. czcams.com/video/xVGdHsAIqNU/video.html
I got this kit for my dented 300 pipe. What I did different was to fill the pipe up with very hot water from my hot water heater, it really made the metal so hot I could hardly hold it!
Pumped out the dent while tapping the edges. The dent was worse that the one in this video, there were still some crease marks on the pipe afterwards but overall it worked great.
Next time I'm gonna hit the creases with a heat gun at the same time as pumping/ tapping the edges.
Please have a look at this data. The plots are various metal strength vs temperature.
www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metal-temperature-strength-d_1353.html
You may be surprised to see that steel actually increases in strength as you heat it from room temp (25C) to a maximum strength at about 250C (about 30% stronger than at room temp). It reaches the same strength as room temp at about 350C then strength decreases as you heat beyond 350C. Yes, there is a very slight dip in strength initially as heat increase (about -3% at about 60C) but this really is insignificant. By 90C the strength is increasing. Based on this I think it's fine using water straight from the tap, with the added benefit that there is no burn risk.
A couple light taps with a brass hammer near the dent under pressure will help pop it out instead of upping pressure
I did try using a hammer when I fixed Phil’s pipe and it didn’t seem to do much. But I’ll try again next time I work on a pipe. Quite a few people have suggested doing this so it must be effective. When you say “near the pipe”, do you mean round the edge of the dent?
@@TokyoOffroad around the edges of the dent and around 1" past the edge of the dent. I would start at the opposite end of the direction of force that created the dent. With most 2 stroke pipe dings in my experience it is from a tip over on a rock so the force is moving upwards as the bike falls so start at the upper end of the dent/pipe. Just adds a little bit of a shock to the metal and helps it to budge in a way that pressure alone doesnt quite do
Love these videos man
warm up the dent spot with torch or something and then give it some pressure fast. That way it works better. I've tested it myself
That will only discolor the spot, and the water will absorb all of the heat.
I came looking for this comment lol ebib don't know what he's talkin about tho bra I imagine a blowtorch would do the trick but if not, oxy-acet. would definitely soften any problem areas enough to get it perfect
Or hit it while applying pressure..that'll restructure er ;)
Could work with air, with water it's just a waste of time
I just use a carbon fiber pipe guard so that won't happen in the 1st place?
Very good welding to take that much pressure
Gr8 vid , good job👏
Great stuff, thanks!!!
This is awesome!
Bought one of these instead a pipe guard (only about $50.00US more than a new P3) and I stopped running pipe guards. The pipe guard would save the body of the pipe, but it would transfer stress to the neck instead.....still ending up with a bent pipe. At least now with one of these, I can pull the pipe, get it almost perfect and keep on riding. Great video!
Yes, I tried running pipe guards too and also found that the neck of the pipe gets really bent. Currently prefer riding with guard...
Check out Hyde Racing's guards...depending on where you're riding (say extreme enduro), the Hyde's are quite handy (and surprisingly light) for "the rocks". Wouldn't recommend them for the wetter single track trails with a lot of grass/mud (minimal rocks), as the debris will sort of build up....well, mud will build up anyway. It's a $175 pipe insurance policy.
Also, referring to that stress you mentioned.....install an exhaust manifold guard (billet ring), 40 to 50 bucks...will save the manifold ring (where pipe slips in and meets the motor) from snapping a chunk out when crashing the pipe on a rock, witnessed it first hand with a '17' 300xc
hoptard I have a manifold ring installed...but I still manage to push the neck of the pipe right back into the frame. The ring saves me from wrecking the manifold, but I still bend up the neck pretty good when I run a carbon guard. Thanks for the info on that guard.
This is far safer than using air, worst that can happen is the pipe would split, not explode. Maybe heat the area with oxy and a rose bud tip to get it all out. Either way, very cool tool and I agree with the guy who said to use a pressure washer.
Gonna look this unit up, have a Gold Series Fatty that needs fixed.
Thanks for the video.
I got one of these earlier this year and it works like a bomb. The silencer end cap didn’t fit mine, but I just fashioned a plug and it worked just fine. I had some huge dents too.
"It works like a bomb", do you mean it works very well, or explodes? If you bleed all the air from the pipe before pumping even if a bung fails if will only spurt water, not explode.
Haha. It works very well although I was definitely afraid it would explode. Yes, I did bleed all the air from the pipe for exactly that reason.
Tokyo Offroad he meant it worked amazing
Nice choice of words smartass ;)
Tap the circumference of the dent with a soft hammer while under pressure, vibration (resonance, molecular excitement gets the electrons moving) it’s how metal is worked without breaking
great vid. From my mechanic's own experience, you should hit the dent with a hammer while you apply pressure, the dent will disappear entirely. Just do it together, pumping and hitting with the hammer the dent, exactly where it forms an edge. No need to apply all that pressure, it could be dangerous!
I did actually try hammering but it didn't seem to make much difference. Still pleased with the result as it's quick and easy. If you bleed all the air out of the pipe there is very little danger, all that will happen is water will spurt out.
You have to hit it quite hard actually, exactly at the edge. Using this hydraulic blow out kit has another great advantage: it will bring the pipe neck in the original shape and alignment, at least it does so with the stock pipe.
My mate Neil is handy with hammers so I'll get him round next time ;-) Yes, when we blew out Phil's pipe last week (which had a bent neck) I could see that the alignment was much better after the blow out. It's a handy tool to have for sure...
Would also work if you heat up the dent. It will leave a nasty color on it but you can polish it or leave it just like that, these are enduro bikes, not show bikes
I know. I made a video about using heat and compressed air last year. It works well, but takes longer than the hydraulic blow out method. It could also be viewed as a more dangerous method. You can pin-point exactly what area you want to blow out though: czcams.com/video/U_LClTYi1gY/video.html
So good you had to add dents back in!
@ 00:01 minutes and 08:00 minutes -- before and after for the dent....Fantastic job mate!
A pressure washer would do this job well I think , I've done it with air and a blow torch on 2stroke exhausts , but it's like playing with a bomb .
Ive used a freeze plug from a sbc on the head side and used a couple different size pipe fitting to hook up air on the silencer end. Its a pain but a little ingenuity will save a ton of money.. I used a little heat in the dented area and applied air pressure works perfectly. Cost about 10 dollars us.
slik pick - I have a separate video showing me blow out a dent using heat and compressed air. It takes a lot longer and will only blow out the area heat is applied. In my experience the metal needs to be red hot to blow out. The HydraForce method is much quicker and easier for a repair like this. Notice how the neck of the header starts moving (to its original shape) when I first start increasing the pressure. That doesn’t happen when using heat and compressed air. The other big advantage is it’s a far lower risk.
Awesome! Question where can we buy that contraption?
I made my own tool that uses air pressure and heat.
90psi and heat up the dent with a map torch and rosebud tip.
With that method, I could remove any dent, no matter the shape, size or depth.
I did the same thing last week with air. Used jb weld and a fitting to plug up holes and pressurized with my leak cylinder leak tester to 100psi ish. Heated with torch, everything popped out and straightened the kink!
It's important to remember that a dent, by nature, has stretched the original material. That means it has effectively grown and without manipulation won't usually come back to it's original size and shape. On a flat panel you would use a shrinking hammer.
Don’t forget that the surface of the pipe is curved and the majority of the dent is in fact the curved surface popping inverted , rather than the metal stretching. At the point of impact some stretching may occur too. Yes, a hammer can be used around the edge of the dent while under pressure to help easy out the last bit of the dent (where it may well be stretched). I’ve tried this and it does work. But most times I’m not worried about a perfect repair and happy enough to blow out the majority of the dent quickly and easily just using the HydraForce.
if it was a flat piece of metal it would stretch yes, but youre simply reversing the convex; to concave.
@@westrootsindustries9916 Not quite as simple as that and one of the reasons why he couldn't get it all out.
Have you ever tried filling the pipe with water, plugging the ends then freezing it. It works for popping out dents in small nitro rc car pipes. Might work here too.
Someone els mechened that too, good idea
I’ve tried that on severe dents near near the cylinder end and it doesn’t work well. It may work on smoother dents on the sides in the fatter portion. Worth a try I guess as long as you don’t split the pipe.
The o ring in the pressure pump is that thin and flimsy because it’s a extra safety feature so you won’t break the hose or something else a old pressure washer works fine as well and boiling water on the dented spot makes it easier
Tokyo offroad, I seen others have already say to you about using a hammer to lightly hit around the dent to help remove but what if you used heat when you have the water pressure around 600-700 to soften the metal? The pipe has water in it so the carbon can't burn?.... Thank you for all the great videos and I just ordered my own hydra force. I'll be doing a video on it in the future for my channel
I need to get one of these
Great video! Those HydraForce kits look great. What if you used very hot water? You think that would get the dents out completely?
I don't even own motorcycle but very pleasant to watch
My friends and I used to cork one end up and fill with water cork the other and freeze. Worked pretty good. Cheap!!
Yes, I've heard of that method, but haven't tried it myself. You didn't have any problems with the pipe splitting?
@@TokyoOffroad takes a very specific amount of water to pop the dent without popping the pipe. One of those thinga thats worth starting with too little then adding water ans trying a couple times until the dent pops so you dont pop a pipe
Have used the freeze method many times it works well and costs nothing
@@TokyoOffroad
I did split an old FRM that was on Cr500 I purchased. The pipe split along a stress crack at the mounting point. I simply TIG welded the crack.
@@billshuey7422 - I've TIG welded a couple of friend's 2-stroke pipes after they split on rock impacts. One was actually quite a large hole which I had to patch. Pipe worked fine after the repair though.
Hello i santés toi know of the cap device is free toi purchase . I already use the same method but i got problem to close the pipe and i loose pressure. Thanks
I find compressed air and a gas torch works pretty good.
Doesn't require so much pressure either. Also, you only remove the dents you heat!
+1 the heat and blow method is as old school and well proven as it gets.
I filled my pipe with water and put in my chest freezer, it came out good!
I've never tried this myself, but heard that some people have good success with it. However, I have heard that it can be quite time consuming as sometimes 2, or 3 goes are required. All things considered I still like and use my HydraForce set as it's quick and easy to do. If you check some of my later videos using it you'll see I made a custom bung and use a hammering technique around the dent while under pressure to more fully remove dents.
I did Paintless Dent Removal for 25 years. Next time use a heat gun to heat up the dent where it is too hot to touch for about 3-4 minutes. This will soften the metal. Then apply the pressure. We call the edges the crown. In this case, I don't think you would need to tap on those. You can make a sharper dent come out buy spreading out the damage into a larger area, basically try to make it bowl shaped, then repeat all the steps.
The big difference is the pipe is full of water and would be very difficult to heat up to a high enough temperature to soften the metal. I made a different video which covers the use of heat and compressed air to blow out dents czcams.com/video/U_LClTYi1gY/video.html
What is this witchcraft!! This was so interesting to watch, thanks for the video.
Good video, can I ask where you got your garage mat/floor covering from?
The mat I got from Konan Pro in Japan. It's intended to be a truck bed liner in a Japanese mini truck.
I made another HydraForce pipe blow out video, this time using a hammer at the end to get the dent out more fully. Please check it out here if interested: czcams.com/video/xVGdHsAIqNU/video.html
The Gnarly pipes are thick and heavy, harder to dent, but harder to undent. Impressive to be able to get that dent out! I need one of these gadgets, as my 2T riding buddies would always want to use it, and I would never have to pay for beer again - LMAO
This method is much safer than compressed air. Water is uncompressible. If the pipe did split, the water would just gush out with little drama.
I've blown out my FMF Gnarly pipe quite a few times now using this method. The majority of the dent (about 90%) blows out very easily as shown in the video. To get the last but of the dent out, particularly at creases, you can use a hammer to tap and it does work, but I'm not really that bothered about small dents as I doubt they make much of a performance difference so don't usually bother. Yes, the high pressure water blow out method is a lot safer than heat + compressed air. If you do spring a leak the water spurts for a second or two with no drama. It's quick and easy to do. Highly recommend this method...
@@TokyoOffroad Nice. Since it costs about what a pipe does, this tool is pretty much a no brainer for anyone who is a 2T nut. I am sure I could fix other's pipe's with it and make back it's purchase price quickly.
I live and ride in Colorado, plenty of pipe denting rocks around here. I will run a carbon pipe guard, which helps but by no means prevents damage. I refuse to run an enormous pipe covering skid plate on my 300. Too much weight, and the metal ones reflect the sound back, making it sound like a cement mixer. The tough plastic plate on your bike is perfect.
this is cool i must get one
Anyone remember the oldskool way fill with water and pop it in the freezer 😂
Jo Ski wouldnt it crack the pipe?
Somone needs to try this out
I tried the water and freezer method yrs ago and the pipe split at the weld.
@@ged6975can you try this out block the exit of the pipe completely in another site make a plug with 2 wiress going insode the pipe and put some flammable gas in the pipe and close it and ignate it Thru the wire's.
Something like a potato canon the explosion must be enuf to take the dent out.
IS it possible what do you think.
@@dr.hugog.hackenbush9443 🙋♂️First thanks for calling me stupid.
But I'm sure it's not that dangerous people build pipe canons for ages with plastic pipes using a metal tube makes more safe.
And I didn't tell you to put nitroglycerin in it only a small amaut of hair spray or deodorant.
And lest thing if you think is dangerous no one tells you to stay next to it and watch it. And a little tip for you if you are that scared of everything you are in the wrong sport go play socker.
I was looking at the air pressure based ones + using heat. What are your thoughts on this one vs. the air?
where i can buy this tool??
Heating the area with a torch before using the HydraForce will greatly help the tool reform the pipe to its factory form.
Donovan Creamer - Are you suggesting heating the pipe before filling it with water, or after? Either way as the pipe is full of water when the dent is blown I don’t see how the steel would retain enough heat to make a difference. Steel needs to be well above 300 degC before it starts softening appreciably.
Interesting method!
I use air and a flame instead of water, but I confirm what lisimahus wrote on the need to hit the edges with the hammer to smooth the metal well.
I also thought of a "mixed" method that could facilitate the restoration of the muffler.
In practice it is always used water but at the same time you have to heat the part where there is the bruise!
In this way you avoid reaching high pressures, you reach the goal much earlier and better, but above all you avoid getting out even the dent factory (just because a lower pressure is sufficient)!
Do not you think?
Try and show us how it goes! ;)
Good way to blow yourself up.
Any coupon codes for this thing? Thanks!!!
The size of the factory dent would be a good indicator of the size of dent that would interfere with the pressure wave, anything bigger would then be detrimental.
very cool 😁👌
Could you have used a body hammer when it was pressured up and been able to get any more of the dent out ?
I'll try various hammer techniques next time and if I can get good at it will make an update video...
Or just cap one end and fill the exhaust with water and freeze it over night in your freezer , but leave enough space at the one end for the water to expand !! As water can expand by 25% when frozen and it don't cost nothing to remove dents using the freezing technique and you might have to do it a couple of times but the dent will get pushed out by freezing it with water in it for FREE !!!
I was going to say the same thing. Free-zer method
Between this and air+heat, which method yielded the better result?
Each method has pros and cons. The compressed air + heat method is able to blow out dents almost perfectly, but takes longer, discolors the pipe, has some risk and does not easily straighten the pipe if crushed. The hydraulic method is quick and easy, can help straighten the neck of the pipe if bent, does not discolor the metal, has minimal risk of personal injury, but is more difficult to fully remove dents.
Air heat
under pressure just tap the dent with a hammer (edge in) and that will remove that last little bit to perfect.
Another great vídeo! Thanks! Did you stop using the carbon guard?
Yes, I found the carbon guard didn't offer that much protection and (still dented the pipe) and also became more likely to bend the header. I've made a couple of newer pipe blow out videos too so please check those out too. This one shows blowing out a badly squashed header: czcams.com/video/xVGdHsAIqNU/video.html
Looks like the 2020 EXC can't be blowed with the Hydraforce or compressed air since it goes out of alignment. I got the carbon guard and pipe flange gasket but I guess I'll go FMF route, without guard. What about melted pants, any experience? Looks like the bike runs very hot.
Preheat the dent until red hot allow it to cool slowly, this will make the metal much softer. Also tap the edges of the dent when under pressure.
You’d need some special equipment to be able to heat the pipe red hot when it’s full of water. With the Hydraforce blow out method, hammering around the dent while under pressure removes the dent much more fully. I show this technique in later videos. I also made an earlier video using heat (heat to red hot) and compressed air, which works well, but takes longer, particularly if the pipe is badly damaged. Currently my preferred method is using the HydraForce as its quick, easy and relatively safe...
@@TokyoOffroad you heat it before the water goes in. It softens to metal it's called Annealing.
In my mind there is a few things I can do. New pipe(225$), send out to have it repaired professionally(100$), or get this unit(~210$). Mine isn’t terribly damage just a dent slightly larger than the one in this video, along with a few dings in the bottom. New pipe? No way, if I did I’d dent it the next ride. Sending mine out would be nice because they re finish the pipe to make it look totally new and shiny again, or get this and have it not be perfect but able to do again and again for no additional cost. I also believe I would get better results than you because my pipe isn’t made of thick metal like the Gnarly. What would you recommend? I’m leaning towards this tool because denting pipes is a part of life riding 2 strokes.
I ride every week so being able to repair things quickly myself is essential and that's one major reason I purchased the tool. I've already used it twice in a week so it's pretty much paid for itself.
Can I ask what is the name/brand of the clamps you use to seal one end of an expansion chamber to pump air into the other end for dent repairs?
mantap 👍
700psi? Yikes. Cool vid. I put a ptech full guard on after my first thorough pipe smashing. A little extra weight, but I haven't thought about my pipe denting since.
For a long time I used carbon guards. I'd still dent pipes and worse is that the header often becomes badly bent when using a guard. Currently I don't bother with a guard and fix the pipe when it gets a few decent sized dents in it. The HydraForce is also very good at taking out header bends. This more recent video shows me repairing a friends stock KTM 2018 250 TPI pipe and you can clearly see the header of the pipe returning to it's original shape as the pressure increases. czcams.com/video/xVGdHsAIqNU/video.html
@@TokyoOffroad Yeah, right on. My friend just bought I think the same pipe tool, so curious to try it. Thinking of hiding behind a concrete wall at 700psi ha ha, or maybe just all my riding gear he he. Good input on the carbon guard too, as I was thinking of maybe going that way on my next bike for weight. Got the "heavy" aluminum one now, and that thing has taken a beating without worry for a 2 years now. We live in the rocky desert though, and it's a dent a day without it. Thanks for the reply, and the cool video!
Got one of these and the plug end always blows off before the dent is removed....
It looks like it works great for dents, but does it also work for a bent + dented pipe?
I’ve heard it works well on bent pipes too, although I haven’t tried it myself yet. I’m sure I’ll have the opportunity soon though ;-)
Need to hit the hard spots that dont want to come out with a torch and soften the metal so it pops out back were it was
Don't think that would work with water in the pipe. You would also make steam and get really dangerous.
Cool!
One question could you not fill it back with water, bleed again, and then get the rest of the dent out? Just a thought...
Yes, you could try blowing out the dent again, but if you do it to the same pressure it's not going to change. To remove small, or hard to get out dents it is recommended to use a hammer round the perimeter of the dent while the pipe is under pressure. I've tried this and it does work. But really, I'm not that interested in trying to make the pipe look perfect. For me a quick, easy and relatively safe method to remove major dents is what's attractive to this method. I've blown out this pipe 3 times now using the HydraForce kit and it still fits and works great. I did need to tweak the pipe header back into alignment once (will make a video next time it's required) using a long pipe.
Do you have links to the tools you uses for this repairs?
www.hydra-force.co.uk/
What do you think of the DEP and Scalvini exhaust ??
I haven't tried DEP, or Scalvini exhausts so don't know how they perform.
Cool bomb!
good
The concave position should be flat after being pressurized and heated with a gun?
The goal is to blow the dent out and restore a convex shape. This video was made just after I purchased the HydraForce kit. I have now used it a lot more and with a hammering technique can repair much better. This video shows me repairing a heavy dent on the neck of the pipe: czcams.com/video/xVGdHsAIqNU/video.html
A different technique is to use heat and compressed air and it works well, but can be more time consuming and higher risk: czcams.com/video/U_LClTYi1gY/video.html
You might as well just budget a couple exhaust pipes a year if you ride 2 strokes off road. One of few things I don’t miss about riding 2-strokes
Yes, the pipes are that expensive anyway, especially compared to 4-stroke pipes. On the same ride a 500 EXC rider smashed his header on a rock and wasn't very happy as the cost is about 2X a 2-stroke pipe and can't easily be repaired.
I don't understand why 4 stroke pipes cost so much. A 2 stroke pipe is much more complicated ans they cost half as much.
use my way, almost like that, but make it custom tools so you can use air pressure inside around 60psi. and using oxy acetylene weld torch or oxy propane blower, just use it to heat up the metal around the dent start with heating it from the outer dent.. it will back to normal without returning factory dent.
I have a different video which covers the use of heat and compressed air to remove dents: czcams.com/video/U_LClTYi1gY/video.html
where might a feller find one of these? and whats the cost in US dollars?
The cost is about $155 plus shipping from the UK. You can purchase from the manufacturer directly: www.hydra-force.co.uk/
I replaced the manifold side O ring with the one you suggested and it does help. However, I cannot make it past 400 PSI before the silencer side O ring leaks and loses pressure. Do you have any measurements for a better fitting O ring for the silencer side? Thanks!
Hmmm, I haven't experienced any silencer bung leaks so far. Are you carefully cleaning off the end of the pipe where the bung seals against pipe? Also look for any damage to the pipe in that area. And if you still have issues maybe the bung seal is damaged.
Ya I clean it well, bleed the air out and the pipe end looks fine, but still cant get past 400 psi. I think it is the o ring and probably need to replace it. Do you have any measurements for that o ring.
The silencer end bung o-ring dimensions are 3mm thick, ID=29mm, OD=35mm
Hi! Do you know a place that will ship to Japan? I need one, but the maker has "no shipping methods available for location"
I purchased mine directly from HydraForce. I had to email them to sort out shipping (experienced the same error as you), but they arranged it and it took about one week.
@@TokyoOffroad Great thank you, I thought it might be the case, I will mail them. Where did you pick up your upgraded o-ring?
My air compressor torch and a trip to Lowe's for fittings same outcome
I have a different video showing the heat and compressed air blow-out method: czcams.com/video/U_LClTYi1gY/video.html
I consider the HydraForce method to be quicker and safer though. I've had a lot more practice since making the original video now. This one had a badly dented header: czcams.com/video/xVGdHsAIqNU/video.html
I have been trying to use this kit. I have the right size bung for the muffler end. When I get to 500 psi the bung flies off. I have thoroughly cleaned all the black gunk off the end and I have tightened it as hard as I can with the 40mm kit spanner and a 27 mm Spanner. It does it every time. What am I not doing or doing wrong?
I've never had a problem with the silencer side bung. Maybe try tightening a little more. For me it always stays on securely. I only had problems with the engine side bung and ended up making my own. And make sure that you bleed all of the air from the pipe before applying pressure.
@@TokyoOffroad I dont think I can get it any tighter. I was freaking out watching the video and wear the bung was pointing. It smashed a tile at my house when it shot off
@@stephenhopper4627 If the bung flies off like a projectile it indicates that you haven’t bled all the air out of the pipe. With no air in the pipe, if the bung fails it would pop off with very little force. Check and double check that the pipe is fully bled of air before increasing water pressure.
What about using heat to finish it off? Or would that cause some other issues or become dangerous. Either way what an awesome product. Since every 2-stroke should immediately get a pipe. Those gnarlys and fattys are not cheap to just replace.
It would not be possible to heat the pipe to a high enough temperature (about 350C or higher) to soften the steel while it's full of water. I have a separate video showing heat plus compressed air: czcams.com/video/U_LClTYi1gY/video.html
How well does this work for four stroke headers?
That would depend on the header material and thickness. You'd also need different bungs to seal the header. If interested I'd suggest contacting HydraForce in the UK to discuss...
Does this method fix pipes that are slightly bent at the header?
It might do. But it depends on how badly and which way the pipe is bent. If the header needs bending to fit the bike correctly I use a 60cm long piece of steel pipe, 38mm diameter, which fits inside the header and carefully bend it in the required direction.
The factory dents them so one model will fit different bikes. That in it self should tell you a dent in the chamber wont affect how it runs
DANGER
This is simple hydraulics, and working with 800-1200PS hydraulics daily, you DO NOT want to put your life on the line with it. The pipe expands and flexes quite a bit putting more energy potential into the pipe, if you pump it slowly you will see the pipe flex and expand storing energy. I put a rubber boot on the end of the small cap with a wire attached to the end of the pipe to prevent the end cap from coming out. Also, do not rotate the O-ring side (bolt) when tightening you want to rotate the bottom part (nut) after applying lubricant to the threads and pipe to prevent wear/tear. As you compress domestic tap water, non-distilled, microscopic bubbles are removed from it and stored/compressed, Water does compress and expand (under pressures and temperature shifts), some oils, however, are designed to not compress to certain specifications to certain degrees. But that does not mean the containment tube/hose or vessel in which it is constrained and under pressure will exert pressures onto you via rapid expansion/contraction.
The pipe will act as a submarine does under immense pressures. expanding, distorting, transfering energy/pressures etc.
To put it in perspective as a diver, our atmosphere, in which we breath is, 14.70PSI - rounded. You have 500-800PSI in a container/vessel. That is a factor of 34x-55 that must then be expelled from that container, inches from your face.
When you turn the pressure release valve, that is energy exiting the pipe that could have been coming out of the endcap towards your face or anyone. Rapid evacuation of water in the pipe is MUCH safer than the Air/Torch methods, however, is far from being completely safe.
I’ve used the pipe blow out kit quite a bit now. The caps are held on very securely and are extremely unlikely to come off. I do not go beyond 700psi. Without doubt the weakest point is the O-ring on the header clamp. When it fails a fine jet of water squirts for a second, or two. Relatively little potential energy is stored as the pipe volume is small and the water compresses only a small amount at 700psi and I don’t think it would enough to cause one of the clamps to fly of the pipe like a rocket. Would be an interesting experiment to perform to see if this is true. My thinking is that you’re careful, bleed all the air from the system and secure the clamps correctly you shouldn’t experience any issues.
How many times can you repair a pipe?
its powerdent.. atleast 20hp+ with that
LOL
Hi Mark, whats s kit like yours, cost wise, whas the dent in the back, as i believe u usually run pipe gaurds?
No, I don't use pipe guards anymore. The dent was on the side of a pipe, caused when I ran into a rock traversing across a river bed full of massive boulders
For cost please go to the HydraForce website www.hydra-force.co.uk/
I gave up using pipe guards when I fitted the Gnarly. The issue with guards is they can put a lot of stress on the neck of the pipe when you hit something and bend it there. Please have a look at the Hydra Force website if you're interested in buying one. I got mine directly from them: www.hydra-force.co.uk/
Hi I need exhaust blow kit for KTM 250 EXC 2021 model. Do you have anything that can fit this model?
Hello!can you tell me please if the 2020 pipe can be fixed?thank you!
I tried a 2020 stock pipe (with the ribs) once with a Hydraforce. I was careful to not blow it out too much, but even so changed shape quite a bit. I had to bend the header back into shape using a pipe. As such I would not recommend repairing a stock 2020 pipe with Hydraforce. If you want to repair yours heat and compressed air would be the preferred method: czcams.com/video/U_LClTYi1gY/video.html
couldn't you drop pressure and add more water then start over?
The pipe is full of water (all air is bleed out). When you pump it forces more water into the pipe as the dent pops out.
U should hammer the dent from the sides to get it pop out when it still on pursuer 👍🏻
This video was only the second time I'd used the HydraForce. I've now built up a lot more experience and like you suggested use a hammering technique to more fully remove dents. In this video you can see me hammering to remove a dent on the header: czcams.com/video/xVGdHsAIqNU/video.html
You can accomplish the same thing with 5psi and a mapp gas torch... Home Depot sells everything you need to plug it pressurize it and heat it, granted the finish will blue or discolor
I previously made a separate video where I blow out a dent with heat and compressed air: czcams.com/video/U_LClTYi1gY/video.html
I prefer the HydraForce method though as I consider it safer, quicker and capable of easily correcting header distortion. This is a later video using the HydraForce to fix a deep header dent: czcams.com/video/xVGdHsAIqNU/video.html
I vote 60 PSI with no water and a nice torch on each dent to bring out the dent even little guys. Just make sure your pipe doesnt have a broken weld seam. Water seems to work well too, just a bit nerve racking 700 psi.
Just went to buy one and it says out of stock. I wonder if they still make them?
I think they still make them. I looked a month or so ago and they were in stock then. Try sending them an email.
I think capping off both ends and using an Oxygen and acetylene torch works so much better because instead of 90% it's more like 99% of the dents will get removed
I have a different video which shows the heat plus air pressure blow out method: czcams.com/video/U_LClTYi1gY/video.html
All methods have pros and cons. The HydraForce is quick and easy, with relatively low danger. Using a hammering technique (separate video) it’s possible to more fully remove dents. The other big advantage is it tends to restore the pipe to the original shape, removing header bends.
Compressed air and heat the dent cherry red removes it completely.
Use the hammer on the dent edges while under pressure.
To anyone watching and attempting to use this tool, be aware of the direction of both plugs when pressuring up to 650lbs. Do not have one plug pointed at your head when playing with that kind of pressure. Mechanical locks do fail and having a plug like that flying off at such pressures can kill someone (think air rifle) or at least put them in the hospital. Do not trust mechanical connections with your life.
I agree that this is not risk free and can be dangerous. However, there is a big difference between compressed air and compressed water. Water compresses very little, even at high pressure and as such is a bung fails it is far less dangerous than compressed air. Either way wear eye protection and treat the setup with respect.
So why did you beat it up w the hammer?? Send it back to the manufacturer ?
Nice
MrCantgetno syx - The pipe has a factory created dent for clearance under the radiator. After blowing out the pipe the factory dent needs to be remade (with a hammer).
What was the cost of the hydraforce? Do you have the contact link for them?
Here’s the link to the HydraForce webshop: www.hydra-force.co.uk