Connecting Knocker in a Virtual Pinball cabinet

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  • čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
  • Connecting a knocker in your Pinball Cab.
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Komentáře • 15

  • @blargblarg1
    @blargblarg1 Před 3 lety +2

    The plastic end of the knocker is what makes the noise. You need a strike plate which you unfortunately do not have. You can use an L- bracket for the knocker to hit. The spring is a return spring only, and you need rubber or felt to deaden the return.

    • @blargblarg1
      @blargblarg1 Před 3 lety

      You could also point it at a piece of wood and use a flat metal plate for the plastic striker to hit. Note: ty-ffasi.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_0202.jpg

    • @MajorFrenchy
      @MajorFrenchy  Před 3 lety +1

      That's an old video haha look at the new one

    • @blargblarg1
      @blargblarg1 Před 3 lety

      Major Frenchy Whoops!! Hehe This one pulled up in my suggested videos. I shoulda looked at the date lol

  • @JulianoVieira
    @JulianoVieira Před 5 lety +1

    Thank's !

  • @juanmota6360
    @juanmota6360 Před 5 lety +1

    thank you!!

  • @zimmer62
    @zimmer62 Před 5 lety

    Knockers and coils should have time limit circuits to prevent them from staying energized and burning the coil up... software can fail and leave these energized. Might want to look into adding that.

    • @MajorFrenchy
      @MajorFrenchy  Před 5 lety

      good point. I did burn one or two. I know DOFLINX has code to prevent that.

  • @jcrane1966
    @jcrane1966 Před 4 lety

    Frenchy I see that when you use the Sainsmart relay board, you are switching the ground (-) with the relays in stead of switching the input voltage (+) for the attached toys and devices like I see in other VP tutorials. I do it by switching the + instead of the -. Is there an advantage you like by running all the ground switching through the Sainsmart? (Thanks for all your videos)

    • @MajorFrenchy
      @MajorFrenchy  Před 4 lety

      You can do both, I recently re wired my cab and used the +. I am not sure if it makes any difference.

    • @jcrane1966
      @jcrane1966 Před 4 lety

      @@MajorFrenchy thanks, likewise I am doing all my switching on the + side via the Sainsmart 8, thanks again

  • @chrisbcn1977
    @chrisbcn1977 Před 2 lety

    Real knocker is 50v

  • @jekroes
    @jekroes Před 5 lety

    It looks like your knocker will only be as loud as the spring that causes the impact. Could you move the spring to the other end of the solenoid so the impact is caused by energizing the coil? This has been a great series and it'll help me a lot with my cab. Thanks for sharing!

    • @MajorFrenchy
      @MajorFrenchy  Před 5 lety

      Thx for the advice. Yeah I am not happy with the noise level. I will try Adding a metal plate, to enhance the noise. I did not think about the spring. Thanks

    • @johnwaddell8683
      @johnwaddell8683 Před 4 lety +2

      @@MajorFrenchy What makes noise is when the piston on the other end comes out and "knocks" on the wood of the cabinet. The spring is to return the piston. There is a rubber bumper missing which is to dampen the noice after.