Don't forget to keep your nails a little bit away from the end of the roof. You don't want to go through the drip edge. #Shorts #worldsfastestshingler #roofing
5-5/8",11-1/4", and 16-7/8". Cut each one from a full shingle and you have a 6 cut pieces That is called a book. . A book establishes your pattern. Take those 6 pieces and a full shingle down to the corner and nail them down. You can precut all your books and never have to use you hook till you get to the other gable.
I haven't created that video yet, but I do the same thing as this. You can watch my shingler race video from about 2 years ago. Or watch my modified one square challenge video. It's in there too
How do you feel about the starter on the gable? I’ve heard it’s best to run in with the tar down so it seals to the metal? I can see why you’d run it with the tar up too jus thought I’d get your opinion
nahh its supposed to seal the shingle to the starter. the nails that you put into the starter and into the shingles on the edges are whats going to hold the starter to the roof
I know the nails will hold the starter down but if you put tar down so it seals to the drip edge then then any wind driven rain can’t get under the starter and then you storm nail Your edges so the shingle doesn’t lift
If you have that concern or need, you can use 4” or 6” roof deck seam tape to wrap the edge of the decking ( over edge as needed / 3/8”-1/2”) prior to felt and drip edge
Any reason you do such a giant gap between each shingle? Doesn’t that force you to drop down more and more. Meaning, slower. I do 5 pieces to a pattern. 5 1/2-6” separation for each one. You cut one shingle at 6” which gives you your first and last piece. One shingle at 12”. Second and fourth piece. And one at 18”. Gives you two middle pieces to finish a second pattern.
That's a very tight stair step in my opinion. The 7-8 inch stagger allows you to have a smoother job. You'll spend less time dealing with the rake cuts, won't get stuck in valleys too long and will be able to continue your stair step around chimneys and pipe penetrations very easily. It's nice not to have back steps ever because you want to make up your speed on them gravy runs
@redsresearch make them as straight as you can. When you butt them you should expect full contact along the seam but it's not the end of the world if there's a smidgen of a gap. If you have ever laid landmarks and got the crooked edge bundles, there's been plenty of shingles that were factory cut and nearly ¼ inch apart and the top or bottom of the contact points
I’m in high wind zone, 140+. It’s full sheet, 7 off, 11 off, 17 off and back to full sheet. I stick to the directions, but on the other side, there’s almost never a chance to end it with at least a 21” piece all the way up. Nail Placement (6 nails a sheet) is crucial on that 17”-off piece.
Funny it must very per GAF product. They asked for 6 3/8 11 3/8 17 3/8 full on mine. The difference is every fourth row pulls back about half a shingle instead of having the 6 in stair step that is normal for asphalt three tab. Honestly if you follow the directions most of the time you land a cut on a single layer this way, and for new guys it makes the cuts quicker. With a pro like Zack at Veteran the offset pattern won’t take any different amount of time though because he can make a clean cut anywhere he likes quickly. He would just have to get used to the spacing a few time I bet.
I’ve done their 4-course step and it definitely requires more thought re: nail placement and tbh seems to be more wasteful. However, if you do a golden pledge or whatever they call their top tier warranty the tech rep will look for their recommended stagger pattern as well as cut shingles in the field of the roof during inspection.
There is a way faster way my guy and that way is wrong never ever cut on top of shingles like that yea you fast and mediocre at best shingle shear the end once you are all done with like your run so like 6 to 12 depends how ambitious you are
Your stair step has saved me quite a bit of time. I was doing it a way slower way before. Thanks again!
Glad it helped!
5-5/8",11-1/4", and 16-7/8". Cut each one from a full shingle and you have a 6 cut pieces That is called a book. . A book establishes your pattern. Take those 6 pieces and a full shingle down to the corner and nail them down. You can precut all your books and never have to use you hook till you get to the other gable.
O melhor de todos que já vi instalando Shingle.
Parabéns!!!!
Loved your technique on that since I first started watchin' ya. Mighty nice.
Thank you
Welcome back!
thank you. now if i could just figure out youtube shorts i'd really be in business!
I can hear the foreman yelling then just “oooooohhhhhh. You’re cutting them!🤣”
Would this void Gafs 6 inch step for the lifetime warranty
Anyone have a good video on how to start stairstep on hip roofs? I need one I can add to my training playlist for new crew.
I haven't created that video yet, but I do the same thing as this. You can watch my shingler race video from about 2 years ago. Or watch my modified one square challenge video. It's in there too
How do you feel about the starter on the gable? I’ve heard it’s best to run in with the tar down so it seals to the metal? I can see why you’d run it with the tar up too jus thought I’d get your opinion
nahh its supposed to seal the shingle to the starter. the nails that you put into the starter and into the shingles on the edges are whats going to hold the starter to the roof
I know the nails will hold the starter down but if you put tar down so it seals to the drip edge then then any wind driven rain can’t get under the starter and then you storm nail Your edges so the shingle doesn’t lift
@@galbavy21 yea they require that in hurricane zones like Florida. We don't have to tar our drip here
@@NWIVeteranConstruction ahhh I see makes sense more precipitation
If you have that concern or need, you can use 4” or 6” roof deck seam tape to wrap the edge of the decking ( over edge as needed / 3/8”-1/2”) prior to felt and drip edge
Is so much easier up North.. In Florida you have to build the staircase accordingly to the Noa. And you have to tar all edges and penetrations
Yea that must suck. I've heard all about Florida installs from my viewers. Feel bad for them but I'm sure it's necessary in that hurricane area
Any reason you do such a giant gap between each shingle? Doesn’t that force you to drop down more and more. Meaning, slower.
I do 5 pieces to a pattern. 5 1/2-6” separation for each one. You cut one shingle at 6” which gives you your first and last piece. One shingle at 12”. Second and fourth piece. And one at 18”. Gives you two middle pieces to finish a second pattern.
That's a very tight stair step in my opinion. The 7-8 inch stagger allows you to have a smoother job. You'll spend less time dealing with the rake cuts, won't get stuck in valleys too long and will be able to continue your stair step around chimneys and pipe penetrations very easily. It's nice not to have back steps ever because you want to make up your speed on them gravy runs
Can also get a shingle shear n cut them that way its always straight
eh, you could. you could also use one of them giant paper cutters. but every roofer should be able to use his knife just fine
@@NWIVeteranConstruction yes I agree I actually use this method I didn’t until watching your videos
@@briansamayoa5148 sweet! I'm surprised that so many people use it and NEVER told me lol I feel like it's never been brought up until I posted these
@@NWIVeteranConstructionso the cuts dont have 2 be perfectly streight? how do you know if it's not streight enough?
@redsresearch make them as straight as you can. When you butt them you should expect full contact along the seam but it's not the end of the world if there's a smidgen of a gap. If you have ever laid landmarks and got the crooked edge bundles, there's been plenty of shingles that were factory cut and nearly ¼ inch apart and the top or bottom of the contact points
Is there a scenario where you would follow GAF’s directions on the packaging? Full-7-11-17
Haven't heard of that but I never do anything but this stair step. It's perfect for everything.
I’m in high wind zone, 140+. It’s full sheet, 7 off, 11 off, 17 off and back to full sheet. I stick to the directions, but on the other side, there’s almost never a chance to end it with at least a 21” piece all the way up. Nail Placement (6 nails a sheet) is crucial on that 17”-off piece.
Funny it must very per GAF product. They asked for 6 3/8 11 3/8 17 3/8 full on mine. The difference is every fourth row pulls back about half a shingle instead of having the 6 in stair step that is normal for asphalt three tab. Honestly if you follow the directions most of the time you land a cut on a single layer this way, and for new guys it makes the cuts quicker.
With a pro like Zack at Veteran the offset pattern won’t take any different amount of time though because he can make a clean cut anywhere he likes quickly. He would just have to get used to the spacing a few time I bet.
I’ve done their 4-course step and it definitely requires more thought re: nail placement and tbh seems to be more wasteful. However, if you do a golden pledge or whatever they call their top tier warranty the tech rep will look for their recommended stagger pattern as well as cut shingles in the field of the roof during inspection.
@@ltd4yt I plan on building a ton of bird houses 😂😂😂. I can’t stomach tossing the waste 😩
I'm not a roofer. But when I do start throwing them down, I'll be ready to go thanks to Veteran Construction!
i appreciate that bud!
Ahhahahha he sucks. Nope.
There is a way faster way my guy and that way is wrong never ever cut on top of shingles like that yea you fast and mediocre at best shingle shear the end once you are all done with like your run so like 6 to 12 depends how ambitious you are