A Pro Bike Mechanics 18 Favourite Tools (You Need)
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- čas přidán 20. 05. 2024
- Pro bike mechanic Scott Jones shows us what essential tools cyclists need from beginner to advanced.
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If you check your chain with a chain checker too often, you're gonna wear out your chain checker; so you really need a chain checker checker to make sure your chain checker is still checking chains correctly.
Using the derailleur alignment tool, I don't think it matters if your wheels isn't completely true if you use the same reference point on on the wheel (e.g. the valve) and rotate the wheel with the alignment tool. That's what Park Tool recommend in their instruction video anyway.
I think, in the long run, it's cheaper and easier to simply replace a bent hanger than it is to buy an alignment tool and try and straighten it.
@@Durwood71depends on how often you have a bent hanger. Like, if you have kids, an alignment tool may be the way to go. Although I tend to recommend to customers, to just don't get their kids bikes with a derailleur. Not even necessarily because their kids would be careless. Most bent derailleur hangers on kid's bikes I encounter are because someone else is raising their kid wrong. Same thing with untrue wheels on kid's bikes. Often it's just another kid kicking into the spokes, stuff along those lines. Especially on the nicer ones of these bikes, there will be that little shit who's jealous.
It was great to see a bike mechanic where not every tool was a Park Tool.
The rear derailleur alignment tool was a CRC brand. Also noticed the CRC truing stand in the background. I have the same equipment at home.
Yes I have Park Tools and love them. The Park Tool truing stand and hanger alignment tool are not cheap and made for the professional bike mechanic.
The secret to smooth gear changing is a straight rear wheel and the rear Derailleur hanger must be aligned to the rear wheel.
Causes me physical pain when a professional bike mechanic recommends a Phillips-head screwdriver for derailleur limit screws. Most bikes use Shimano. Get a good JIS screwdriver. And PLEASE tell people to invest in quality hex keys. There's nothing worse than crap/incorrect tools.
Oh yes. A nice set of Vessel JIS drivers and a set of Wera individual hex keys would be so much better than the thkngs shown here.
@@paulsymons562 110%!
Need to have bike tools that are good but not the same price as park tool 🤔🤔 as a auto tech ,I already have 75g $ Worth of tools but not many bike tools 😔😔
Automotive tools lol. Guaranteed for life . But I paid for that 😮
@@chrism5433 A. For many things, there are quality alternatives to Park Tool, and B. Not all Park Tool tools are expensive.
Well done! I picked up a few useful bits of knowledge I did not know. All the best.😊
As a fellow fully trained bike mechanic myself, it’s great to see pro mechanic tool choices. Park seem to be the favourite for a lot of people, and I’ve got some great ones, but I’ve found Unior tools to be excellent especially their Pro wheel truing stand as the guides also give great rim dish alignment as well as where to spoke tension. Always looking to see what’s missing from my collection. Pro level tools can last decades. I’ve got a Campag 15mm pedal spanner from 1988 still going strong!
I've been feeling the same way about some of Abbey Tools. Their HAG is the best derailleur alignment tool in the industry, full stop. But I also understand that it is price prohibitive to most people who aren't pros. There are a bunch of great brands that have great tools and no brand is the best at everything. Park, Abbey, Unior, Wera, Hozan, Lezyne and a whole bunch more.
My choice for pedal wrench has to be Eldi. Believe I’ve had mine for 30 years and still going strong. Small caveat though. The need is not as ubiquitous as it used to be.
Scott is a good lad. Him and Ben did a lot of work for me in the Williams cycles days in Cheltenham. Funny to see him on CZcams videos
You'll need a torx set now too manufacturers are starting sneaking in torx screws in there too.
For good reason, it makes it a lot harder to destroy/round screwheads.
There's not a lot but still some crossover with certain automotive tools that can save you some money or give you more options, like with torque wrenches, allen sockets on ratchets (better leverage) and various kinds of drivers with the right bits. My 1/4" Tekton torque wrench cost way less than the Park Tool one.
And, I'll admit to the cardinal sin of using a power tool on a bike, specifically to remove a really tight crank arm using a standard crank arm removal tool and impact wrench on its lowest setting and blipped briefly to prevent stripping the threads (after applying penetrating oil). That think one on for years and no amount of manual effort was getting it off so I had no choice. Came up instantly and no damage.
I noticed the wheel truing tool at the far end of the bench that, while a bit more advanced, might have been worth a quick discussion. I've had a very basic one for over 20 years but have never needed to use it as my Mavic Cosmos wheels were built like tanks and have never gone out of true.
Good tools - I would add a crank puller and a bottom bracket bearing tool to suit your own particular setup. And don't use the ball-end hex tools on tight fasteners!
You will be absolutely cursing that mulitool allen key set when you need to get to an awkward bolt, a set of Wera separate keys is all you need instead.
To me the multi-tool is only sensible as a tool to take with you on trail. In a shop, separate wrenches for sure
Wera hex keys are great. They're not only more convenient to use than a multitool, but they also give you more leverage.
Thanks man! I wish I had this list a few years ago! Took me a long time to get the right (and good quality) tools!
Lowest torque I've seen is 0.8 Nm on Specialized TCU Display Unit and the highest at 80 Nm on the Enviolo Brake Adapter
Perhaps I am not sufficiently sophisticated (I work on walmart-grade bikes) but a set of cone wrenches comes in handy should an axle have too much play (or a bent one needs to be replaced) or if bearing regrease is needed.
Definitely get a torque wrench if you are doing ANYTHING with a carbon fiber bicycle. You'll need one to do up the thru-axle on some models. I got a Park Tools ATD-1 as it covers 4-6 nm and uses various hex key "plug-ins". You can find a socket adapter and use it for nuts in some cases. The beam type torque wrench is essential for major bicycle repairs.
My favorite tool is a tool I bought immediatly I found it because I had thought of why there wasn't anyone crafting something like it, and by dumb luck I just came across it as I scrolled for other tools. It's the Shimano TL-MH10 multi-handle tool which basically is a bit overpriced breaker bar that is shaped in a specific way so you with ease can make sure it aligns the interface with the grip on the same plane to reduce the chance of slipping off for when you are mounting/dismounting a bottom bracket for example. Its shape also reduces the chance of smacking into any parts of the frame which is an added bonus.
I know it is overpriced and quite frankly I personally just did not care. I love special tools like this where someone have truly cared, and for what it's worth it is most likely going to last for the rest of your life because it's a solid quality item.
What happened to your other pro bike mechanic from previous videos ?
Shimano crank spindle end cap tool 👌
I know that most people who tryvto fix their bike can "feel" what torque they apply. But you sometimes need to retighten your screws and doing that with the wrong torque can get expensive real fast. I know people who would never change their chain but have gladly invested in a torque wrench (not an expensive one, only to get the torque +/-1 nm correct).
The Shimano chain-link pliers are superior to the Park ones. They have three prongs, which allow the link to either installed or removed by squeezing the pliers. It's possible to get more leverage by squeezing rather than pulling apart.
As a kid, I got a second hand bike and rode it for years, as it was how all my mates got around too, every day. I toured Scotland on it, 50m a day in mostly rainy weather!
But, check chain wear, and replace chain?? Everyone's bike, when it eventually fell apart/gave up the ghost, went to the dump still with its original chain!
excellent, thank you
Are square crank extractors universal with regards to thread diameter and sizing?
"Pad Spreader" ... Multitool. Perfect for scallop shucking.
That kind of chain checker which pushes rollers in opposite directions such as the Park CC-2 shown here 1:50, can't differentiate between pin wear (which is what actually matters and affects chainrings and cassettes) and roller wear (which usually has detrimental effect only on 11T sprocket). If the chain rollers are soft and wear prematurely, Park CC-2 will show an exaggerated wear reading. Chain checker such as Park CC-4/Pedros/SRAM are much more accurate and save the cost of replacing chains too early.
Since all those tools press against the rollers, they all measure the combined wear in the rollers plus pins. I can't see how any one is better than another.
@@bikeman123 Actually they dont, the older "inner to inner" type adds up both pin and roller wear as one but the "outer to inner" type effectively makes the 2 contacted rollers cancel each other out to measure the distance between the pins only, the greater the distance the more the pin diameter has reduced/worn way. New 12 speed systems dont all have the same roller diameter these days either making outer to outer type pretty useless.
I got the Birzman chain wear indicator because it measures 0.5 / 0.75 / 1.0% with ease, as well as having hooks that I use everytime I need a third hand between unhooking/hooking a quicklink. I also like how small it is.
With 12 speed you need the 0.5% range that most older one's just don't have.
I finally got the nice park chain breaker after 50 years of cycling to replace all my cheap breakers. I don't even use it now that all new chains come with quick links. So my quick link tool gets all the work nowadays. I'm surprised you didn't have cone wrenches in the list.
How do you shorten a new chain?
Used to be easy...Campy T handle.
You folks forgot about a spoke wrench though.
I take it he has a crank puller... (tad surprised not to see it on the bench) Or am I too old school, I use one all the time on square taper cranks.
Maybe I need to invest in torque wrench I have most of the other tools.
PS good set of cone spaners is essential if you want to service ballbearings on front/rear hubs. (I have scraped my hands enough times with cheap ones to know) I guess it is not such an issue for modern hubs.
A beam style torque wrench is much cheaper than a digital model.
Why are disc brake pads for bikes so expensive? They have barely 2mm of material, last less than 3000miles and cost more than my car, which have 15mm and last 30,000miles.
Are they expensive? I have Shimano and TRP brakes on my bikes, and pad prices range from $10 to $25 a pair. And unless you're riding your brakes constantly, or are a professional racer, you can easily get well over a year out of a pair of pads.
Cable cutters are nice
The bolts on my Bontrager NCS mudguards are rate at 1.5 Nm, I think.
What brand are those flush cut pliers with the notches?
He said they were lifeline, that’s a wiggle brand, if you’re going to buy a pair, get in quick, wiggle is on a final warehouse clearance before it shuts for good
I like park tools but, i recently bought a cable stretcher tool for 20 dollars and parks tool costs 62 dollars . That's abit much!
Gorilla brake pads are 1/2 the price of shimano and have been tested over a long time against shimano pads on a previous you tube channel and where no difference in wear
Always need a rotor wrench with Shimano rotors! I've had 3 sets of Ice Tech floating rotors warped out box. Just garbage.
Can you do a review on the Bike ahead Composit Biturbo gravel wheels and the biturbo cross wheels. Also black inc five wheels.
For me a set of allen keys is all you need. A favourite tool is a Topeak Mini 20 multitool. Nicely designed and more functionality than I need. I’m very happy with going to my local bike mechanic because they have the knowledge and experience as well as investing in the right gear.
The park tool CC-2 chain checker really shouldn’t be recommended by a professional bike mechanic. Check out zero friction cycling to see how bad it is!
Zero is a slick tongued fraud.
If you don’t know you need hex keys to work on bikes, please, don’t work on bikes.
Never take a bike into a shop to check the chain… always check yourself then use the shop if needed for parts… the amount of unscrupulous shops which will rip you off
I once put a new chain on a bike and noticed it didn't shift smoothly anymore, cassette needed replacement. Took it to a bike shop, they charged me for me a new chain and a new cassette.
Actually, it's a great to check if your local bike shop is honest or dishonest about chain wear. Don't assume all bike shops are the same. They aren't.
@@Roger101WatsonI always change cassette chain and break pad/ rotor before taking in for a service to see how honest they are. Hardly any are honest. Even when you’ve bought the spares from the same shop and change them the day before bringing them in for a service.
Never trust a bike shop. Learn to do it all, yourself. And only pay for the service when you know what’s needed and you can’t be bothered to do it yourself
My local bike shop has done many minor adjustments free of charge. They were just happy to get me back on the bike.
If you're watching these sorts of videos you probably don't need to take your bike to the shop unless it's something really serious like a bent steel or Ti frame or dropouts or something done rarely and requiring specialized tools like installing a headset or new fork or prepping a frame.
I've grown a bit wary of Park Tool. In general it's mostly OK quality Far East made stuff sold with a big price tag. But the last 5 tools I got from them have got quality issues which will not make them last long. For instance the very chain tool presented here has the pin incorrectly centered. On the quick link pliers presented they replaced the bolt keeping them together by an alloy rivet some time ago (in order to save 2 cents) which developed some fissures after first use. Pulled it apart and replaced it by bolt+nut.
3/8" sockets had the chrome plating flake off.
As for more general purpose tools I won't buy any cycling branded tools as you can get "Made in Germany/France/Japan" quality tools for the same money at least where I live.
All Park Tools are made in St. Paul Minnesota, they do not manufacture anything overseas.
@@compasteedeeThen why does it say "Made in Taiwan" on the packaging? Just do a quick Google image search "park tool made in taiwan".
@@compasteedee Then why does it say "Made in Taiwan" on the packaging? Google search for "Park Tool Made in Taiwan" if you don't believe.
@@compasteedeeThen they must be lying - Made in Taiwan - it says on the packaging. Do a quick image web search if you don't believe me.
Its harsh but electric 3/8 hammer gun can easily remove tight bolts ect .easier on our joints lol
You mean an impact wrench? Yeah, I've used one--very carefully. Even safer would be an impact driver at its lowest setting with an adapter.
to remove shimano freewheels (12 point spline) I use the socket version of the freewheel tool with a box wrench and hit the wrench briskly with a dead-blow hammer -- poor man's impact wrench. This has worked every time I have tried it
@@PatsPurposefulPutzingThe problem with this approach on a bike is that unlike on an actual impact wrench the impacts are asymmetrical and could potentially damage a part by bending it or its threads or an axle. I tried this to remove a stuck crank and decided that it was too risky, so I switched to an impact wrench at its lowest setting and it worked. If you do this then do it slowly and carefully with light blows.
I've all those tools and not one Park Tool in sight 😁
Chains worn out bikes worn out a bit of a ridiculous generalisation
I mean obviously Park Tool are bike specific but they're really poorly made tools and relatively expensive. I would avoid them if at all possible.