Drawer slides are expensive. Do this instead.
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- čas přidán 21. 10. 2023
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Are the plans available in metric?
Hi Drew, the router bit bearing picks up some glue and then transfers it to the laminate. If the bearing is seizing it will rotate and bruise the laminate, even burn it on occasion. The best bet is to put the top on, route it, and then put the sides on after making sure the bearing is in good shape and clean IMHO.
😂😅 I think I'm going bold 🤔 welcome to 40's 😅😂just wait until you get to 50 it doesn't get any better 😳🙄, only worse than when you was 40 🫣🤫🤪.
Bummed there isn’t a sketchup file included.
@@justinjones9255 You can always make your own Sketchup file Justin. 😉
Retired cabinetmaker and what impressed me most was that beautiful distributor's showroom and stock. That's what I imagine cabinetmakers heaven looks like.
that and enough C clamps to cover the whole earth in a mile deep layer (to use sparingly on small projects)
🤿Great video! So glad you found us! No need for secret passwords - we sell to anyone. We also have glue, sandpaper, drawer pulls, hinges, and drawer slides.
LOL but do you have dominoes? #Drewisfancylikeapplebees
@@spsully2582I suspect they do. It seems they also sell Festool products.
@pcfw Thanks! I stopped by on Monday to buy more, and Rick brought me to your desk. Someone was out for lunch. 😮
First video of yours I've seen so far.🤿
Good to know even though you're 6 hours away. I'll have to make a trip up there sometime just to look, and drool.
Your comment section is surprisingly amazing and civil. Congratulations, you broke CZcams!
We are always learning from others so here's a share. As in your case for drawer slides. Use strips of laminate. Glue one strip to the underside of your drawer bottom and one strip to the upper side of the rail in your cabinet casing. The drawers will slide smoothly and the laminate is a very hard wearing material. You will unlikely need to replace it in your lifetime 😃. You can go as far as doing both top and bottom of the rail. This reduces drag for when your drawer is pulled far out. Excellent workmanship.
CABINETMAKER TIP: If you’re using a trimmer with a flush cut bit (trimmer bit with the bearing) and you’re not adding the edge banding after laminating the top, add a piece of masking tape twice around the bearing. Line up the edge of the masking tape with the edge of the bearing closest to the blades of the bit, wrap it around the bearing twice and then trim off the excess). The bearing should spin freely but you’ve given yourself about a mm of overhang on the laminate that you can then file down to a nice chamfered or rounded edge without digging into the edge banding.
Thanks for sharing that tip. I'm looking forward to trying out in the future!
Really nice cabinets thanks for the runner idea 🤿
Or just don't set the bearing so low. If you put the bearing just under the laminate, there won't be room for it to cut into the side.
Or even better, use a laminate top trimming bit. That's what it's for.
There is also a product called lami- lube. Spray it on and it will protect the edgeband from the heat of the bearing
They make a bevel bit that you can set so that the top veneer hangs out just a tiny bit that you can file off
That duct tape trick is peak best practices, man. Thanks for sharing that detail 🤿
He never left the duct tape on 🤿
@@ChallengedCustoms lol caught
I think the emoji proves that he knows it... because he watched the full video...
@@ChallengedCustoms
@@martaarroyovidal2279 Thanks for pointing that out, I can sleep better now knowing that
a job isn't done until you use duck tape.
There's so much character in the video--the build was stellar, but the narration and editing were my favorite 🤿
I heeeavily dislike how much space is wasted by traditional kinds of slider mechanisms. Thank you so much for this!
He lost an entire 3.5" deep "draw" on each cabinet by not using drawer guides. Could have made his own from 1/8x1 aluminum or steel bar stock embedded into each side of a cabinet with matching slots in each drawer.
A lot more planning and work though.
I would have recessed the top of each drawer front so the pull fit flush on top
I will apply your drawer design to build one for a remodel of an old sewing machine table. I am making it to look like an existing theft of drawers I remodeled last year. Great video for inspiration! Thanks!!
@@mrbmp09 what we saw in this twilight zone carpentry video is 6 layers of plywood between the inner spaces of neighboring drawers. its bulky af LOL
what i saw before is sane ppl using metal corner stock for slides and not resorting to putting double walls between sections or similar paranormal activities 👻
@@mrbmp09 = if you can, a link to a picture or drawing will help some of us understand the concept. Thankyou.
@@echelonrank3927 Yea some of this seemed a little wasteful space wise to me, but I'm far from any kind of professional lol. I build stuff out of wood sometimes but I'm no cabinet maker.
One thing I've done instead of slides that worked: skateboard bearings. You can get 100 packs for $20 or so. They're low quality for skate boarding but should work great for sliding drawers. I used 6 bearings per drawer (3 per side) because they were super deep, and screwed them right into the side of the drawer with a washer for spacing. Buttery smooth drawers.
If you used 6 per drawer, that's only 200 bearings for 30+ drawers, so should be less than $50 total. The rest of your build could be mostly the same, just size the tracks to accommodate the bearing diameter, leaving room above so they rotate freely.
Good tips in this video, going to look up some plywood companies in my area to see if I can find something better than big box stores for some upcoming projects.
That’s interesting!
Cool tip.
Edging vs bearings... Melamine 3/4" X 250' Roll, Preglued cost 40 bucks and you can likely get it even cheaper. I have even heard that people just use it on the drawer bottom and not bottom and drawer holder side.
If you just just use it on the bottom you only need 120 feet if you account for each drawer using 4 feet.
I also would have dado the drawer just enough to align them. This would make for all the drawers being perfect size. I do like the idea of the entire drawer being a piece of plywood rather than some other form. These drawers are super strong this way and will hold some major weight.
Rollerblade wheels are also cheap to use instead of casters for woodworking projects.
I swear, skateboard parts are high quality AF. I replace every castors with skateboard ones. So smooth, so quiet, zero rattling.
A laminate trick my dad showed me was to take a candle stick and rub the edges where the bearing will rub. The wax keeps the bearing from burning the laminate and can be cleaned off when you're done
Fantastic Idea
Ok, but that wasn't the problem here.
@@Snaffer01 could have been
I think it would be better to use the actual candle, not a candle stick. I don't see how rubbing a candle stick on the runners would do anything at all.
@@andyboybennett the candle is for using a router to trim laminate, not for the runners
30 minute commercial for a track saw. I'm sold. Geez. :D
I picked up one brand new in the box at an auction a couple months ago. I'm so excited to pull it out in a few weeks when I start working on my kitchen
No kidding. They are awesome. I should have bought one for making all the moldings in my house.
My son has one now and wishes he got it years ago. I use it too sometimes and it’s a game changer. Cheers from Tasmania
A couple laminate tips from someone who works with a pro. First thing you want to do is tape the edge your bearing will ride along before you route. 1-2 layers of masking tape is fine. Step 2 is to cut your material a little closer to size. you never want to be cutting more than half the diameter of your router bit. (i.e if you use a 1/2" flush trim, never use it to trim more than 1/4" of material) it also helps to use bits made specifically for laminate (but they can be kinda pricy) the last step is to either use a laminate file to remove that last little bit, or a "no file" laminate but in a trim router. (this is my preferred method. it's easier, and gives the tiniest radius to the edge so its not as sharp)
This is an excellent post, and describes the professional approach to laminating.
Thanks for posting !
I might add the main sheet should overlapt the front and side edges, to avoid haing any chance of something catching the edge while sliding across the top. Am alternative is to use soft or hardwood edging, which then makes the front and side edges bullet proof. Just rip material on the table saw.
Could've just bought the telescopic runners from China or india. I'm india the most cheapest telescopic style runners, a pair can be had for like 2 dollars USD and it's the same shit as off brands ( not like hettich hafflee blum) . For heavy-duty with heavy loads like 100 pounds + always buy hettich cheapest and best, but light load go for local chinesium varietals.
I like the cmt bit with the triangular plastic bearing cap.
The triangle means it resists spinning, and the cutter is ground on a tiny taper.
Adjusting the height means it will cut closer and closer as you drop the bit.
I have hardly used the tiny amana bit since trying this cmt bit, barely touch it with a file and it’s done.
I would also extend the drawer faces to cover the raw carcass edges, and scribe the base after it was leveled with the shims.
Just cut a scrap block the width of your largest gap, and slide it around with a pencil on top.
French cleat the backsplash so you’re not married to the first tool layout.
Wax each drawer block before installing, and wax the drawer bottoms.
We always use a bevel bit and file the last of it with a bastard file (course cut on one side, smooth cut on the other). I think the Festool router attachment for edgebanding would likely work well on this application but I don't have one.
On a solid color, the tape is a good precaution.
Another tip is that having such a huge overhanging piece of laminate, as in this video has at the end of the top, is risky. It's really easy to go too far with the roller, because you don't realize you are at the end of the top, and then you crack the laminate, making the edge really hard to finish nicely.
Use parafine canning wax on the edge after you stick sheet. Use a bullet laminate trim bit beveled. Bastard file to take off the sharp edge. Black sharpy if you over cut.
As others have noted, the marks on the edge banding is from the router bit burning the laminate. I worked in a cabinet shop in North Carolina. The way we prevented this was by brushing on a thin coating of Crisco shortening before routing laminate or edge banding. It's super quick to brush it on with a small chip brush and easy to wipe it off with a rag and acetone. Keep up the good work. 👍
ALSO, CHECK FOLLOWER BEARING! Clean and lube, or replace if needed, before starting
This ... or do it freehand.😅
@@johanfahlberg3778 His dad actually brought the right tool to do this manually. In Germany, that tool has a proper name (okay, two, actually): Stemmeisen and Beitel. In English, it's one of many tools called "chisel".
🤿
@@klausstock8020 you can NEVER have too many chisels !😊
@@johanfahlberg3778 I, actually, do have too many chisels. In addition to the chisels I bought in the 55 years of my life, I also inherited maybe 50 years worth of chisels.
Of course there's always that one chisel I don't own yet. But which I need.
TL;DR: Yes, you can have too many chisels, but it's still not enough.
What?
Electro-pneumatic?
Glad that you asked.
Yes.
I got a few of these.
Just...not all of them.
You need 'em. Trust me.
It’s very relaxing listening to you describe your Reno. You left out any unnecessary blah blah and move the story along with just the right amount of humour. It’s edited at just the right pace to fully comprehend and the b-roll is not only well shot but is not overused. Something simple like the screw comparison side by side shot when your screwing the cabinets together gave me all the info I needed without taking me out of the story. Your good at writing, and have just the right amount of confidence and self deprecating humour that makes your videos aspirational and also attainable so overall worth subscribing too. Cheers
You're = you are
@@manolisgledsodakis873thanks for correcting me on a misspelled contraction.
🤿 60+ female, no woodworker here, and your cabinets are fabulous! Enjoyed the video to the end!
no woodworker here. but them right? don't worry we know and we like it
Novice cabinet builder here, your cabinets are first class, as are your videography/production skills. Also, as I’ve helped restore our 125yr old Victorian house over the last few decades, I’ve realized the importance of leaving things much better than I’ve found them, even down to the last hidden details. So I was really glad to see what you did with the duct tape! 😅🤿
I don't know how to do a snorkel emoji. An idea I learned from TOH about shimming the toe kick rectangle -- Use the shims only temporarily to level the assembly. But then screw some 2x4" material inside the frame to meet the floor. They then removed the shims leaving the 2x4" material to hold the assembly in level position. I used that technique when I built the kitchen island.
oh wow I love that!
@@wittworks I'll say here too that I struggled with the price of the drawer glides opting for the cheaper side mounted ones. When I built vanity I used undermount glides and really love them, but not their price. I retire next June and look forward to revisiting this video for my garage turned partially into a home workshop. Thanks.
I like the 2x4 idea, but is there any technical/engineering reason to remove the shims? Or would it just be for aesthetics?
@@Obtuse94that’s a good point and another reason to use composite shims.
@@Obtuse94More points/greater surface area of support in ground contact, reduces the number of tools and parts that disappear underneath through the gaps that need to be retrieved, reduces the amount of dust and debris that can find it's way in.
Love the message you left for any future homeowner who dives 🤿into the construction!
I used to work at a professional cabinet shop in Texas and we ordered lots of sheet goods from the plywood company. They are awesome
Wahoo! Planning a garage conversion on the cheap, got a bunch of 1/2 inch plywood. This is what I was looking for
@@pauldavies8314no no
Most likely reason you got that mark on the edge of you laminate is the the bearing had build up of contact cement from your previous trims and it wasn't spinning freely from the bit. I always clean the bearing with acetone or thinner after I make my cuts.
This happened to me my first time doing it and bearing getting gummed up
For sure, THE number one tip for routing Formica, if you think your bit might be gummed up, it was a cut ago! Keep that bearing clean and spinning! Acetone is your best friend.
What also helps is trimming your laminate closer to the final size. As well as the others posted about proper bits and cleaning bearings.
Yeah, the bearing is definitely not spinning, but melting the laminate as you go.
They also make a solid carbide flush trim bit without a bearing that is made specifically for Formica-type laminates, The recommended usage is to quickly apply some paste wax where the bit would be touching the laminate. Bearings are great except when you have build-up. The solid carbide is simple, easy to clean, and a lot cheaper.
I'm a cabinet maker wannabe so this video was a big inspiration. Thank you. Lots of great tips and tricks. Also, I've taped, mudded and sanded 1000's of feet of drywall joints in my time so the duct tape tip is a game changer. I recently went to Punta Cana; lots of highlights but the 2 hours I spent snorkeling one day was near the top. Using a snorkel and mask allowed me to see dozens of types fish you'll never see in the Great Lakes. 🐟🐡🐠 🙂
I will probably never build anything out of wood- but loved watching this. My dad built our kitchen and bathroom cabinets in two houses when I was growing up. (He used a file to get the edge off the laminate--took some time...). Anyway, two years ago we had a major kitchen reno and our contractor reminded me of the way daddy would have built things. The cabinet company's video was also like that- me thinking if daddy was alive, he would have done it like that. In your video, I kept thinking how much my dad would have enjoyed watching this. Love it that someone put a bunch of time stamps on some really good points. Even though the things I watch are usually sewing or crafting related, I could still get good out of this. (this is great videography!). This method of drawers (btw, in the midwest it's pronounced more like "door" with an "r" in there). This method of drawers could/should have been used in inexpensive chest of drawers that used the bottom center hardware, that is now broken and the drawers almost fall out. I have a couple of small chests (one is a library card catalog cabinet) that the drawers stick and I'm going to try wax, and then, if that doesn't work, I am going to try to find out what that tape is that was mentioned and where to get it. Also- when we did the kitchen, there were a couple of pantry cabinets that the GC ordered without the shelves and he MADE the shelves and some are adjustable and others fixed. One of the fixed ones is for my kitchen aid mixer and it is HEAVY. I love it that these 3/4" shelves are not going to bow and sag. He also trimmed the front edge of the shelves-- (another thing daddy did.). I thoroughly enjoyed your video and the only thing that slightly worries me is if you get another flood- even of minor proportions-- the idea of those cabinets being ruined b/c of being in contact with the floor- scares me. I have never been scuba diving but I did find that *that* is where you find a snorkel being used.... 🤿
I need a large number of drawers for nuts and bolts and washers and flanges and nails and ... I think I might try this technique right after I return from my snorkeling trip.
Tamar would be so proud of you! Looks great, killer idea on the hardware-less solution. No idea where the snorkel emoji is but totally good idea duct taping the seams, pros do it that way.
I don't know how I stumbled on to your video....I'm a 60ish, overweight woman who usually chooses a sewing machine and rotary cutter as my tools of choice....not your prime demographic......but I have to say, I'm a huge fan. Informative, fun to watch, and great use of duct tape. 😜
🤿
don't call yourself huge. that's not nice
🤿
🤿
I didn’t take this video seriously until the FESTOOL DOMINO came out.
oh wow. so then did you take me less seriously when the festool table saw came out?
@@wittworks what table saw? 😏
I agree. You talk about saving money so that us DIYers will click on your video but your tools cost more than this build. If you can do this truly on a budget with budget tools, let me know and I’ll watch.
@@Littleredrumcooler Bruh… it’s a joke 5:38
@Littleredrumcooler He didn't use the Domino on this build though. 🤿
Love the Plywood Company, no matter how little you are buying they treat you right. One of my favorite places to shot. First time I went there they had not opened the current layout, so to exit you had to exit to the right through the facilities, was amazed how much stuff they have!
These "garage cabinets" are to die for. So well done!
Great build, it turned out very well. Love the enthusiasm and comedy.
Laminate edges that join on the front edge are prone to chipping. A tip for laminate counter tops: Use a solid wood edge on the MDF, then lay the laminate on the top and rout a 45 deg chamfer. That what I did on my shop tops, table saw extensions and large router table 25 years ago and still look like new.
True. I thought about adding maple on the front and forgot about it with all the other moving parts. Next time!
YES to this suggestion !
Thank you for this!
Gotta be walnut!!
Yep that works
great wa y to use up scraps. !!!@@flatlander523
I've only ever seen your tool review videos until today. Your build videos are super chill and enjoyable. Thanks.
Drawer vs Draw - When my wife and I moved to Upstate South Carolina 30 years ago, we were looking through the used furniture section of the classifieds, and there was an ad for "Chester Draws" for sale! No kidding!
I’ve seen that too! Also a lot of ‘dinning’ tables for sale 🤿
I was an adult when I learned that "chester" was supposed to be "chest of."
@@tracymaybrown2261 glad it's not just me!
I laughed my head off the first time I saw it, how is it possible?
Reminds me of one of the Apollo moon shots where the astronauts had set up a seismograph on the moon and were receiving instructions from Houston as to where to point it. No matter how many times Houston kept sending up the coordinates, the signal wasn't reaching Houston. Finally, someone figured out that Houston was saying what sounded like "fifty" when in fact they were saying "fifteen," but with a Texas drawl. Once they figured that out, the seismograph worked just fine.
There's a lot of great tips in the comments! I'd like to offer one of my own. Before installing your upper cabinets, place an upper and lower 2x4 horizontally to mount the upper cabinets on. Mount the lower 2x4 2-3" higher than the lowest part of the cabinet, this will give you a little nook to hide your LED strip lights in. It's a quick and dirty technique perfect for garages and kitchenettes. You look great for 40!
Project was well thought out. Video and audio production was A+. Keep it 🤿. Cheers
I need to build a shop bench and storage. This was perfect. Beautifully done!
The drawers will slide more easily and reduce damage to the stretchers and drawer bottoms if you add 3 thumb tacks to each side of the drawer. 1 on top of the stretcher at the front and 1 on the top and 1 on the bottom of the drawer at the back. This eliminates all wood to wood loaded vertical contact. Just be sure to make the stretchers narrow enough so the thumb tacks clear each other when the drawer is fully out. Put the top drawer tack at the very end and the bottom drawer tack a couple of inches from the end so that all three tack are not vertically aligned when the drawer is put in place. You could also put tacks on the cabinet sides at the front and the drawer sides at the back to further reduce wood on wood drag. I did this with cheap store bought cabinets 40 years ago and they still work fine.
Clever.
Combine with some powdered graphite on the wood and I bet that would last forever.
why not just wax the slides
Drew you were spot on about the plywood from a big box compared to an exclusive builders supply. And the cabinets turned out amazing. I love em and May be going with this same set up in my shop. Great video 🤿
Really nice. Nothing to add, delete or change. Well, having nice tools and knowing how to use them helps a little.
🤿 Just a quick note about the fungus toekicks. As someone who used to work in the commercial growing of mushroom fungi i just thought you should know something about the plywood that you think has mushroom fungus on the back. You may find that sometime in the future you start to notice a odd odour within your workshop and if you do can i suggest that you remove your fungal plywood and replace it simply because once the spaw's of fungus has started to be able to penetrate into the sheets of ply you will find it has spread across the area of each sheet like vein's, therefore it WILL start to grow into mushrooms again if that's what you had on the plywood in the first place. It's not something you can whipe down and stop from coming back like some molds etc. Just wanted you to know just incase you noticed a strange smell in the next year or so. The cabinet row looks great by the way and a brilliant idea for saving a few pounds/dollars etc even though you didn't actually hit your target. That said I doubt you could have purchased all the cabinets you wanted for the price you actually spent making your own, plus your cabinets will be stronger than the cheap ones you can buy from the DIY stores and last a heck of a lot longer 😊. As always buddy 💯% 👍 🇬🇧.
One trick for next time to make your drawers slide like butter: put some ultra high molecular weight (UHMW) tape between the drawer bottoms and the pieces they slide on. It's probably better to adhere to the cabinet than the drawer, but either would work, obviously. The tape is super tough and super slick. It makes wood-on-(UHMW-tape-on)-wood drawers almost as nice as ones with glides.
...and if you don't have the room for the tape (it's 2mm thick, right? and you have to put some at the bottom but also at the top of the slot), you can use the following recipe: mix some wax (bee-wax or else) with talc powder. I also used this for the central screw of a piano stool (the one for tuning the height of the stool) that was squeaking like hell, and it works like magic.
@@gilbertcabasse6168 it comes in lots of thicknesses. Obviously the thicker ones are tougher, but even the thin ones are surprisingly tough. McMaster stocks it down to about 0.1 mm.
@@gilbertcabasse6168 I've always just put it on one side (tape rubbing on wood), not both (tape rubbing on tape), and it seems to work fine. Wax also works nicely, though.
3” wide x 90’ = .21 per foot. I cut it on ban saw > 1/2” wide = .06 per foot. = 90 foot rolls for under $. Carpenters use your math skills and Sand properly to save/make money😂
I’ve used both UHMW tape and wax and was stunned how well the wax worked when using decent quality plywood for drawers like these.
🤿 thanks for sharing the build. Fyi we had a relatively minor (hopefully) water leak a few days ago, and that gave me perspective into what you and your family must have endured. Sending positive vibes your way!
OMG....Got my floaties on and can't wait to see more video's you have graciously provided. I just need a garage...but may try these cabinets for a desk and amazing storage off of my kitchen..... snorkels rule....insert applause.
🤿 you've inspired me! I need to build a few projects but the plywood costs alone are discouraging. A quick search in the North Austin TX area turned up 6-8 places which I'll check out this weekend. Good on ya Drew Witt for using your humble and humorous style to consistently offer solid and helpful information
Thank you for making the drawer bottom-slide combination a legitimate method. All my future shop drawers will be like yours. Duct tape is a good tease. 👍
Watched to the end....You (and your dad) did an amazing job!
Such an easy video to follow for not only the process you followed but background music isn't intrusive, you use simple speech and don't repeat yourself. Great job! I will be following for more.
I'm glad to see you building projects again. Those are the best videos.
fantastic job, saving this in a projects playlist to do myself in the future.
I did something similar recently but using Dennis' approach from Hooked on Wood. Standard carcass with an MDF inner liner with slots cut in. Then just glued and pinned 80mm drawer parts glued and pinned to a 9mm MDF base. They are very deep, slide fine and saved me a fortune as I'd have needed nearly 35 drawer slides of whatever flavour. Also I can move them around as desired as all the slide slots are identical, so there are single, double and triple drawers and each can go anywhere. Similarly I also put black Formica on a double 18mm MDF top, but the contact adhesive I had was utterly shocking and formed blobs when I dared to use a brush or a roller. I did eventually sort it all out though and it looks great.
So happy to see new content from you! That tip on the parallel guides and 55" track on a full-rip is something I hadn't seen before and should be made into a "short" on your channel or IG. Include the duck-walk for a little Wittworks flair. Keep passing open windows (The Hotel New Hampshire) and persevere.
The Duct tape idea was genius. In fact, I think you should have finished the cabinets with it to help protect it from any future water disasters even though you may need a 🤿 to get to your tools. And, you can use it to secure your tools to the backsplash.
Awesome video!
Good job. Finding the right place to buy materials and tools can make feel like a professional. And you usually feel more confident which often helps.
Love your content! Keep it up. One thing I learned is if you put blue tape around your countertop edge it will keep the bearing just that little bit off and you won’t get that chatter! And you can tune it up with a sanding block! Lastly I always rip my plywood long ways down the center (610mm) and then cut them to the final 600mm which takes off the factory edge! You got a follow from me
The details behind this build and the excellent use of duct tape just made me a subscriber 🤿
Thanks for the sub!
We have a cabinet in our dining room that was given to my mother 55 years ago. The top part is solid oak with leaded glass and came from Europe. It has adjustable shelves each side of opening has V cut wood slats, an insert strip that fits into the V then the shelf sets on top of strip with notches in the corners. The solid oak base was made in Missouri in Early 1900’s. The drawer glides are made of oak. There are three parts. One attached to the cabinet, one to the drawer, and a third sets on the cabinet piece and the drawer sets inside of it.
And yes, it is extremely heavy.
🤿 Great work on the cabinets Drew! Love the idea of using the plywood over slide hardware.
🤿 Great ideas. Comments on the lam edge were right on. I also wish I had these in my sewing&crafts room. Well done video too. And dads are great helpers!
🤿 I now need the bottom cabinets for my craft room. I don't have the tools or area to build them though... But now I have an idea of what to look for in pre-built cabinets. Thanks! Your video was amazing and maybe someday I will be able to live my childhood dream of making my own furniture.
I enjoy all your videos , this one is by far your best, incredibly informative with some of the best tips, whilst being entertaining. Thanks so much
Thank you for sharing, this is exactly what I need for my new garage! 20 years ago I would have done it myself but now I think I may have to hire some help... But all in all even with the cost of that, I think I'm still going to save a ton of money.
Great work! I have a chest of drawers which doesn't have metal sliders. There's just 8 strips of timber, 2 for each drawer to slide on. All the strips have developed a groove and there's sawdust on each one. If you have any of the black laminate left and the damage hasn't already been done, you might want to cut and glue some black laminate strips in, to stop the drawers wearing a rut in your plywood.
That's an impressive set of cabinets for under 🤿 $1500 all-in.
When I made mine, I surfaced the counter with wood so that if it got damaged through using it as a workbench. I could either plane it smooth, or replace it when it got really bad.
But your laminate looks really good.
These were some great tips, especially the paint can one! I know the tips weren't all yours, but I appreciate you sharing them. I'm in Granbury and will definitely be checking out the Lumber Company. I'm glad you shared that experience because I would have turned around and walked right back out after seeing how fancy it looked inside.
Thank you! They’re great people!
Hey Drew: I'm new to this woodworking world. I'm retiring next year and I'm gleaming from all you awesome cats. I did watch to the end and gotta say, I thought you were slacking till ya came clean. Lol Great looking cabinets kid. You keep on doing you. I hope to enjoy years and years of woodworking. Maybe someday, I'll upload a couple videos for ya'll to have a laugh at. Thanks again Drew.
Good work. Here's a few laminate tips:
1. Use water based contact cement. Doesn't have the overwhelming odor, goes on white, dries clear. But it does dry slower.
2. Use a solid carbide laminate trimmer bit and spread a little bit of vaseline along the laminate edge to prevent any burning from the bit.
3. Cut your laminate as small as possible. Maybe 1/8" overhang but no more than 1/4".
4. Use pieces of conduit instead of boards to lay on the surface when you place your laminate. They do the same thing but you end up with less surface area touching the contact cement.
5. If possible, use a trim router. Nice and small and easy to manage while trimming.
I watched🤿 to the end and apparently even found the right emoji which was a neat trick with my 80-year-old eyes. The cabinets look great. Wish I had them in my workshop.
Nice job! Last time I bought ply it was $150/sheet for Baltic birch. $40 sounds like a steal! 🤿 going to definitely try this drawer slide substitute on my next set of garage cabinets!
Excellent display of shop greatness my friend! Also, that tape trick on the paint can…🤯
That tape trick is the bomb!
Thank you. Wait till you see the trick in my paver install video.
I was expecting you to say something about not painting or finishing them. LOL you should fly down to help him take them back apart, mask them off, paint them, reassemble and then wear the step brothers t-shirts for the reveal.
@@wittworks
w/a 1ksqft diy paver patio in my near future... can't wait.
Lots of good ideas in this video, thanks.
Its always a good idea to look for wood at a professional wood dealer, most of the time you pay less for a better quality compared to a hardware store. I'm lucky to have a great one just about a mile down the very road where I live.
🤿 man that plywood company sign made me laugh out loud. The deadpan delivery had me rolling. Great build… as usual it was worth the wait!
Dead pan, I wasn’t joking the entire video. 100% serious.
😂@@wittworks
Great build and well-narrated and edited video. Thank you for sharing. 🤿
Love the video, the ideas and the end result. Definitely going to consider building these for my space. The only thing I would add would be to make the drawers a 1/4” longer and put a 1/4” of trim on the front of the walls between the drawers. The entire project would look more professional, even though its only shop furniture. Thanks for the time and effort that went into filming this!
Yeah...The front walls need to be trimmed for aesthetics in my opinion. Everything else, I do mean everything, is on point. I'm one of the 6 people and I got the scuba gear ready to go!
Thanks! I actually preferred the look of seeing the ply exposed.
There are few ways to avoid those router marks. One is go in reverse. The cutting force going forward flexes the bit into the edge. If you go slow going forward you can get away with it. You can also counter the forces somewhat, but reverse solves it but feels less stable. Also make sure you dont have more cutting edge showing than needed though that is a double edge sword with glue clogging the bearing easier. Lastly there are laminate trim bits with tapered flutes that help keep the bit off the edge and also saves time filing.
Very slick system and economical, too. In my youth I did pretty much the same system using 2x4 framing and 1x6 for the drawer supports and 3/4" plywood for the drawer bottoms. I didn't build the drawers just just left them as interchangeable shelves. This system was installed in an attic and was a great storage system for seasonal stuff.
Just a tip for next time (cuz you know you will 😅) install uppers before lowers! Makes it a butt load easier to install and zero chance of damaging lowers or counter
Oh yes. Now that you mention it, we did this with our kitchen. Certainly easier
Was just about to post about Plywood Company! The place ROCKS, my kitchen is built from their material. Glad you found it!
I gotta find a company like theirs up in north Idaho or eastern Washington... this setup looks amazing... now I want to build my cabinets in my house
Good build shown with a great video presentation. Your drawer idea is something I will use when building my own shop cabinets. Thanks for doing this.
well done ❤ … now I might Clean my shop!!
Really Jimmy I've seen your shop it doesn't need cleaned or if it does my shop looks like bombs gone off in it!!😂🏴👍
Bro that will take you months
@@wittworksBetter than leaving it out in the rain!🤿
@@woodandwandco Haha!🤿
It's very easy to lie on youtube, Jimmy
🤿 Great video. I built our house including all the cabinets - kitchen, bathrooms, laundry room, everywhere. Unfortunately, I went the expensive route, but they are still in good shape 20 years later. I definitely agree on the toekick. I've done it both ways. After trying the notching of the sides and then facing the toekick area, I scrapped that idea in a hurry. Leveling the cabinets is so much easier with the separate base. I've done a lot of laminate for my garage and for friends. One time I set down a large sheet of laminate in the wrong place and it was stuck! Impossible to get off? Nope. I sprayed automotive brake clean under the edge and peeled it right off, cleaned up the glue and reattached it correctly. I suppose acetone may work as well, but I always have break clean around.
I love the Brake Clean tip!
@@geoffmiller3491 I always have 3 or 4 cans around for cleaning almost anything (within reason).
I intended to speed through this, but ended up watching the whole video at 1x. What you built looks stunning. Congrats. The duct tape gag is hilarious. 🤿
I appreciate that!
I also had bearing marks when trimming laminate. I used paste wax on the laminate where the bearing ram and it solved 99% of the problem. Great job on the build and the commentary was entertaining also. SEMPER FI
I love this project, and you're a natural narrator! I totally agree with you on drawer guides vs dadoes. Recently I made a small 9-drawer cabinet out of scrap lumber, same size as one of the units you made here, but foolishly used dadoes - holy tearout, Batman! Next time will use your method, but probably with 1/4" plywood. It's plenty strong for the drawer bottoms, slightly cheaper, and there isn't enough slop for the runners to jump the grooves.
About the pocket screws, which seem to be the new hotness lately - honestly, I've been making drawer bodies using simple flat joints with wood glue and brads for 30 years (amateur), and none of my drawers have ever come apart in use, even heavy shop drawers. They also go together faster and easier than using screws. I think you worked a little harder than you had to there.
Applying the laminate with your dad took me back to building our kitchen and bathroom with my dad many years ago - our last big project together. We did it the same way with the wood strips and it came out great. Painter's tape on the front edge would have saved it from scoring by the router bit bearing. Anyway it's really cool that you included him in your video.
I got a lot out of watching this. First time I've ever seen that expando work surface thing you setup at the beginning, and also the parallel guides - will look into those. Big thanks for posting!
🤿Excellent work and I love the under cabinet lighting.
You are an amazing carpenter. I had to put a bunch of drawers in my shop and I to was shocked by the cost of slides. I also made my own. Hopefully they will get the message and bring the price down to something reasonable. Everyone seems to be jumping on the band wagon and raising the price ON EVERYTHING. I think this is because they can, not because they have to. They will be sorry!!!!!
Man, that shop flood was rough! 🤿Glad you came out of it okay. This is exactly the style of build we've been thinking about for refitting our attached garage, so I appreciate all the practical details (like your cut list/diagram) that you included. We're not quite lucky enough to have a place like Plywood Company close to us, but even with that added hurdle, I think this project is a lot more attainable than we expected.
For 36 drawers I probably would have made one, place it on a spare piece of wood, and use the same technique you use for the multitool fence. It would give you a template to place the boards in, and be done in minutes :)
Excellent video by the way!
That’s a great idea
This is one of those woodworking vids that just makes you feel good. Funny and insightful all while in the middle of moving house and recovering from a flood damage.
Added plus that i realized i can't spell snorkel in my 30s
Hahahaha. Thank you
Love this Cabinet build. Great work! 🤿
I have a very similar concept in mind for building pullout, adjustable shelves in a kitchen pantry. By using 1" or 1-1/2" wide drawer spacer/guides, I can adjust each shelf to any height I want. This video affirmed my idea.
What a great idea for shop “draws”. I’ll have to go thank Jason. 😅 Can’t seem to figure out how to do a fancy snorkel emoji. Seriously, these are great. I’ll have to grab those plans. Mine are going under an existing table, but you’ve done the math so hopefully I can figure out how to make them work. Hope everything in the shop is getting fixed!!
I love the project and I love the presentation -- you are a natural. Lots of really really good tips and tricks for us home DIYers. I was not horrified about the Duct tape, but I am glad that you went with tape and mud in the end; it was the right thing to do.
thank you
Only HE would ever know it is there. But it would bother me. I like how he added the insulation, it looked easy. He should have used that duct tape on the laminate sides, that probably would have worked, right? Somebody suggested to grease it with crisco first.
Love this build. Will be watching this again. 🤿
I have to build a custom cabinet for my hobby/reloading corner, and this concept is the bee’s knees!
Since there are no runners, the drawer can be pulled out too far. One way to prevent that from happening is to place a false back in, which does two things: 1) prevents contents from migrating to the very rear of the drawer which necessitates pulling it out too far and 2)Provides a visible queue when to stop pulling. You could easily retrofit all your drawers with false backs.
You can more easily build limits into those. Don’t overthink it.
Just use a string and two screws.
One screw on the back of the cabinet, one screw on the back of the drawer, string tied on the two screws setting the length the drawer can go out.
If you ever need to remove the drawer just unscrew the screw on the drawer to set it free.
Jer Schmidt uses this method
@@ewong7492 Jon Peters uses it for drawers in his projects as well.
But the point is that you can easily move drawers out and around with this system. 🤿
Great build! Good to see you posting again- hope the move went smoothly. Absolutely loved the stand off! Hahaha! 😂😂🤿
You and me both!
🤿Great job on the cabinets. Love the minimalist look and form follows function design.
Tip on the laminate. Get a laminate flush trim bit that is made for that. Works really well and should not cut into the side piece. Also use a tiny chamfer bit to go around the perimeter and that will break the sharp edge.
Laminate flush trim bit, and wipe the surface you are riding on with Johnsons Paste Wax for a little lube....
I used to work in a cabinet shop & we always laminated the edging after the top.
Johnson’s. Rip.
A really attractive way to eliminate laminate edge banding is use a 3/4” thick 1x2 oak or other type of solid wood as an edge band. Glue and nail then apply laminate on top. Flush bit route as normal..then throw an OG or round over bit on it. Really blows peoples minds. Personal preference I suppose…yet different than the guy next door! Excellent job on cabinets…and videography too! First time viewer.
@@wittworks I’ve always just used turtle wax on the edge that the bearing rides on.
Super cool video. Not least on where to look for plywood. Menards has been my big box default for the better plywood and more options. Great ideas about using the track saw too.
Couldn't find the snorkel. But I watched to the end. Wish I had this setup in. my quilting room❤