Thanks for another great video. You are very committed or maybe a bit mad or both to do this work in the current heatwave! But we appreciate the upload, looking forward to seeing more!
Thanks a lot for this Video! I changed mine as well.There is a useful Tool for it, and its absolutely worth it. With a sliding Hammer (the Tool Kit has Adapters for it) its quite simple.But even with this tool i needed much Power.Greets from Germany.😉
Me as a beginner, accumulating professional ball joint removal tools (from flea markets) over the years can do this? Managed to replace the generator/alternator and tension pulley on my 2000 V70 classic just a few days ago, first time ever with no previous experience. Many, many thanks to you Rob for showing me that I can do it myself on my previous V70N and so forth.
If you have a compressor, consider buying an pneumatic air hammer specifically for this job. Makes everything so much easier. I also used a piece of aluminium pipe which fitted just over the rubber boot (before hammering it in). Keep making these great videos as they helped me a lot with my Volvo S80 2.4T
Quite right, an air hammer/chisel makes short work of this job. I don't have a compressor and the cost versus how often I would use isn't justified unfortunately. There are videos showing the air chisel method so I wanted to show a more basic way of changing.
@@sirobb Keep a lookout in Aldi and Lidl, they do a lovely cheap compressor. I got a 2 cylinder compressor with tank and gauges for £99. I need it just to inflate my camper tyres to 70psi. And removing Volvo bottom ball joints and blowing dust out from places, and inflating bicycle tyres to 60psi, and . . and . .. I might do some paint spraying. Now I need Aldi to do an air hammer gun - it should be about £20 - £30
cross country control arms are steel the balljoint is a different size compared to the alum arm. Mine was too fat to fit so I just ground it down with a grinder and hammered it home, 70K miles and no problem. I did mine without removing the knuckle, its fiddly but possible. The ratchet strap idea works very nice.
I have used the CTA instalker/removal tool plus slide hammer, they were very effective but yes very difficult or impossible without removing the hub carrier aka knuckle.
Great post thanks...how long would this take a proffesional garage to complete this on both front wheels Si.Hope all well with you and yours...our V70 D5 02 has 230K and is still running very nice.Cheers Paul and Lin from North Derbyshire
If your lucky enough to have a towbar, you can remove it and mount the knuckle on the bracket holes, then use a slide hammer to remove the ball joint. Worth getting one for that use alone if you do a lot of car work
Why didn’t I think to remove the whole lot rather than fighting with the ball joints from under the car. If I need to do that again it’s the SiRob method lol
Two questions : 1. Do you use this TEXTAR grease for brake caliper guide pins 2. Did the ball joint got play when you lift the wheel and catch the tire at 12 and 6 oclock and rock it back and forward
Sorry mate, but Febi is a total piece of garbage. Latest priof of that was the engine mount. Bought a swag and febi, the febi one went out ofo order in 3 months..
I'm just reporting my personal experience which has always been positive. There will be some negative experiences for pretty much every manufacturer out there.
@@sirobb Febi is now owned and made by the Chinese and the quality of their parts has taken a big nose dive. Volvo ball joints are made by ZF in Germany, who also make TRW and Lemforder on the same production line. Other German made stuff will be ok, but unless you want to be doing this job again within a couple of years, just pay a little extra for the better quality parts. I recently did a pair on my car, one was an original that had been in for 20 years, the other was a NAPA that had been in six months. The original was still servicable, but the NAPA was completely worn out.
@@irondonkey65 Just bought a Febi strut spring seat for my Volvo and it was made in India. Perhaps not any better but it was at least not made in China.
Looks a fair bit easier with the hub off the car, great tutorial as usual, thank you si👍
Thanks for another great video.
You are very committed or maybe a bit mad or both to do this work in the current heatwave!
But we appreciate the upload, looking forward to seeing more!
Committed or I need to be committed..... The jury's out. 😌
Great video as usual.I found it much easier to relocate the hub to the suspension by temporary removing the anti roll drop link .
Thanks a lot for this Video! I changed mine as well.There is a useful Tool for it, and its absolutely worth it. With a sliding Hammer (the Tool Kit has Adapters for it) its quite simple.But even with this tool i needed much Power.Greets from Germany.😉
Me as a beginner, accumulating professional ball joint removal tools (from flea markets) over the years can do this?
Managed to replace the generator/alternator and tension pulley on my 2000 V70 classic just a few days ago, first time ever with no previous experience.
Many, many thanks to you Rob for showing me that I can do it myself on my previous V70N and so forth.
If you have a compressor, consider buying an pneumatic air hammer specifically for this job. Makes everything so much easier. I also used a piece of aluminium pipe which fitted just over the rubber boot (before hammering it in). Keep making these great videos as they helped me a lot with my Volvo S80 2.4T
Quite right, an air hammer/chisel makes short work of this job.
I don't have a compressor and the cost versus how often I would use isn't justified unfortunately.
There are videos showing the air chisel method so I wanted to show a more basic way of changing.
@@sirobb Keep a lookout in Aldi and Lidl, they do a lovely cheap compressor. I got a 2 cylinder compressor with tank and gauges for £99. I need it just to inflate my camper tyres to 70psi. And removing Volvo bottom ball joints and blowing dust out from places, and inflating bicycle tyres to 60psi, and . . and . .. I might do some paint spraying.
Now I need Aldi to do an air hammer gun - it should be about £20 - £30
Yet another great video👍
Thank you as always
cross country control arms are steel the balljoint is a different size compared to the alum arm.
Mine was too fat to fit so I just ground it down with a grinder and hammered it home, 70K miles and no problem.
I did mine without removing the knuckle, its fiddly but possible.
The ratchet strap idea works very nice.
great video. Watched the fcp euro video this was linked- liked this one much better.
Thanks. The FCP video is great if you have a lift and all of the official tools so it's good to hear my alternative helped too.
I have used the CTA instalker/removal tool plus slide hammer, they were very effective but yes very difficult or impossible without removing the hub carrier aka knuckle.
Hello “R” do you still have the special CTA tool install/removal ? Are you will to sell or rent it out? I would like to buy it off you. Thanks
@@starquestca Not for sale, but worth owning.
Yes, Amazon sells the Ball joint shown and many others amzn.to/2FjTKSa
*Always check compatibility.*
Never tried it this way I think I'll try it out. It looks faster as well.
Great post thanks...how long would this take a proffesional garage to complete this on both front wheels Si.Hope all well with you and yours...our V70 D5 02 has 230K and is still running very nice.Cheers Paul and Lin from North Derbyshire
good blog mate gary from crewe
If your lucky enough to have a towbar, you can remove it and mount the knuckle on the bracket holes, then use a slide hammer to remove the ball joint. Worth getting one for that use alone if you do a lot of car work
Any pics of this? How do you mount the knuckle?
Why didn’t I think to remove the whole lot rather than fighting with the ball joints from under the car. If I need to do that again it’s the SiRob method lol
hi great video . Can I know the homepage information at the end of the video?
Again, great video! Have you removed the EGR from your Volvo or are you planning to? Would love to see a video about the procedure.
And by removing I meant blocking😅
There's no need, so I have no plans to.
Two questions : 1. Do you use this TEXTAR grease for brake caliper guide pins 2. Did the ball joint got play when you lift the wheel and catch the tire at 12 and 6 oclock and rock it back and forward
1. Yes
2. No
always service the balls
Has anyone in Europe heard of auto part... Sidem Belgium ???... Are they any good, they are made in Europe and for lots of volvo car applications
Sorry mate, but Febi is a total piece of garbage. Latest priof of that was the engine mount. Bought a swag and febi, the febi one went out ofo order in 3 months..
I'm just reporting my personal experience which has always been positive.
There will be some negative experiences for pretty much every manufacturer out there.
@@sirobb Febi is now owned and made by the Chinese and the quality of their parts has taken a big nose dive. Volvo ball joints are made by ZF in Germany, who also make TRW and Lemforder on the same production line. Other German made stuff will be ok, but unless you want to be doing this job again within a couple of years, just pay a little extra for the better quality parts. I recently did a pair on my car, one was an original that had been in for 20 years, the other was a NAPA that had been in six months. The original was still servicable, but the NAPA was completely worn out.
@@irondonkey65 Just bought a Febi strut spring seat for my Volvo and it was made in India. Perhaps not any better but it was at least not made in China.
Fiddly job why did they design it with the cup on the slant lol
No idea. Nothing is straight or stable on it and I hated doing this job. 😌