The biggest and most common mistake that lots of people did and have done since ww2 is the cleaning and polishing of recovered memorabilia. Under no circumstances should such actions be taken by those who have no idea what they are doing and those that do not understand what they are holding in their hands. It is best to leave it to the experts and minimize any further wear and tear.
Some of the reliable dealers that I have personally interacted with and bought from are Emedals, lakesidetrader, Helmut Weitze and Auktionshaus Andreas Thies. But you have to sign up in order to shop in some of them.
I have a first class one with a number 1 on the back of the clasp where yours shows the number 26. Do you know what this means? Also, it’s in a small black leather “case” that has a push release. I haven’t see the case while trying to research. Is that something they commonly had?
Hello.. After how long would the 1st class example start to get the patina of that 2nd class example? I've seen a 2st class, cased example from a genuine dealer that is in this very shiny condition but the cross has no maker mark.. Should I avoid it because of that reason.. ? The dealer authenticates it and guarantees originality.. Thanks
There were lots of makers for the German combat medals and badges during both world wars. Some of them did not print nor engrave their maker marks at all and were issued without any. It was not an accident. If the cross is in the inventory of a legitimate seller who knows what they are looking at then i see no problem in making the purchase. Of course people can be mistaken as fakes get better and better each passing year but i believe that genuine examples can be easily recognized and fakes excluded from the market by experts and veterans of this business. If the seller can prove the authenticity and maybe provide a certificate or further documentation then all the more better.
Very nice crosses! Been meaning to pick up a first class, but there are always British medals that happen to catch my eye, lol
Love these.
very nice crosses
The Iron Cross, in its foundation papers, could only be awarded in times of war.
I recently acquired a ww2 second class cross, it's pretty tarnished. Would you recommend cleaning it or leaving it as it is?
Best to leave it maybe polish it with a bit of cloth but be careful not to chip off any of the black iron core paint otherwise it'll devalue it
The biggest and most common mistake that lots of people did and have done since ww2 is the cleaning and polishing of recovered memorabilia. Under no circumstances should such actions be taken by those who have no idea what they are doing and those that do not understand what they are holding in their hands. It is best to leave it to the experts and minimize any further wear and tear.
Some of the reliable dealers that I have personally interacted with and bought from are Emedals, lakesidetrader, Helmut Weitze and Auktionshaus Andreas Thies. But you have to sign up in order to shop in some of them.
@subscribe me for good luck I was in this position a while ago. Military antiques Stockholm is a great place and they ship internationally
I don’t have the little notch on the pin like yours. But yours is the only one I’ve seen with that.
it's very common
I have a first class one with a number 1 on the back of the clasp where yours shows the number 26. Do you know what this means? Also, it’s in a small black leather “case” that has a push release. I haven’t see the case while trying to research. Is that something they commonly had?
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I can’t see a 26 on the back of his 1st class.
@@Dragon-Slay3r Thank you, what does that mean?
@@ThisTall He shows it at the very end of the video. It’s small, in the middle of the back of the pin.
@@ladyfrederick788it’s a Deschler
how much do authentic first class sell for?
What's the value on That 2nd class wwii?
I Just bought a 2nd wwi for 35.
WW1 is almost cheaper than WWII. That's still a good deal on the WWI, WWII go for $60-$200 depending on scarcity and condition
Which is the difference between the flat and concave first class iron cross?
One is flat, the other is convex.
Hello.. After how long would the 1st class example start to get the patina of that 2nd class example? I've seen a 2st class, cased example from a genuine dealer that is in this very shiny condition but the cross has no maker mark.. Should I avoid it because of that reason.. ?
The dealer authenticates it and guarantees originality..
Thanks
There were lots of makers for the German combat medals and badges during both world wars. Some of them did not print nor engrave their maker marks at all and were issued without any. It was not an accident.
If the cross is in the inventory of a legitimate seller who knows what they are looking at then i see no problem in making the purchase. Of course people can be mistaken as fakes get better and better each passing year but i believe that genuine examples can be easily recognized and fakes excluded from the market by experts and veterans of this business. If the seller can prove the authenticity and maybe provide a certificate or further documentation then all the more better.
Baby
Falcon cross 57