Your Email: Why do cars need new tires so soon? | Cooley On Cars
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- It's time for another one of your emails! Why does my car need new tires already?
It has long been practice to put crummy tires on new cars unless they are premium, performance models. Do a search on eBay and you'll find a whole category of tires and wheels described as "take offs". These are tires, and sometimes wheels, that people take off their new car immediately to get something better at their own cost.
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#Tires #Cooley #OnCars
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C19STACK - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Hey Cooley. Good to see you back.
I always think I buy bad tires but then I remember all the burnouts I did.
Priceless.
Yeah almost no Threading but still they can't stop us even jeeps agree too 😁
1. Performance, Low Price, and Long Life. You can only pick two!
2. If you consistently get above the rated MPG of your vehicle, then your tires will last longer too.
3. If you drive anywhere it rains or snows, you don't want to wait until your tires are to the wear bars to buy new.
Good luck getting low price performance tires.
I love my sticky tires, and don't mind the low treadwear as the compromise. I love that this video covers important considerations for ALL drivers no matter what your preference is. Great job as usual! Cooley on Cars is the best! :)
Sticky, soft compound tires have high tread wear.
Tires aren't the only thing manufacturers are skimping on, I'll start with: batteries that only last 3 years.
Doesn't most batteries last only 3 years ?? Even our aftermarket and OEM last about same time
Ivan Liao you must be a lot younger than me. They used to last at least 6 years.
Yes, they definitely put low life batteries in new cars, and there's no way to tell the difference.
@@woohunter1 I am 32, bur since I started driving at 17 all our cars only lasted 3 years lol.
Batteries used to last at least 5 years - at least in my 15 year old Toyota Camry
This was a great video, thank you!
I recently discovered that a lot of tires have a 4 digit number in an oval that shows month and year the tire was manufactured. That is good to know when buying a used car, because after about 5 years you could be dealing with dry rot.
I think some people aren’t understanding that,in most cases softer compound tires increase traction.The trade-off being increase tire wear.
Mr- T
Mr. T wtf you been?!
Ouch! My 2014 Kia Soul factory tires lasted me 65,000 miles! Would've lasted at least another 10k if it wasnt for having to replace one due to a nail.
HPad Another reason never to buy American.
KIA Soul is a much lighter vehicle than a Ford Explorer
Did you listen to everything the video was saying?
not the first kia soul that insee with ovek 50k miles on tires. ok its a light car bit has small tires
i hope so it weights nothing has baby brakes and a baby motor.. no torque, less wear, weaker braking, less wear, lighter weight, less wear...
Disagree about the compressors you plug in to the 12V outlet. I've had one for years and they are perfectly fine.
A little slower, but compressed air is compressed air.
Yes it takes three days to top off 4 tires and the spare. Get a cheap pancake compressor it will take 5 minutes
decent 12v compressor will top off tire in a minute. If it takes longer than that, then you waited too long and let the pressure go too low...
True if you're down like one pound it's not too bad, but then you are checking more frequently than necessary.... unless you have low profile tires where one or two pounds makes a difference. On my vehicles I can go 6 months and five pounds since the tires are taller.
David Morse Digi tal Amen. Ones I've used I never spend long pumping the tires up. I've never timed it.. but what feels longer is unscrewing, not losing, and rescrewing the caps.
The best explanation to maximize tire life. Thanks cooley!
Even high-dollar premium tires may not last long. I bought a set of Michelin Premiere LTX tires for my Acura. Over $1300 for the 4 tires from Discount Tire. Less than 2 years later with just 17,000 miles on them, they only have 5/32" of tread left. They get rotated twice a year. No uneven wear patterns. They are just nearly worn out. Researching online, wear is the #1 complaint about these tires. Most people that bought them say that they would not buy again.
Manufacturers will install softer tires on new cars so they have a more comfortable ride during test drives. Unfortunately softer tires wear out sooner. That being said, I have almost always gotten about 30,000 miles out of tires on a new car. But the first set I buy always go at least 60,000 miles if not more! Never skimp on tires! So much depends on good tires.
damn i only use 10k a year, hopefully my next tires last at least 5 years
It's not that simple. It's the soft sidewalls that would contribute to soft ride. If you research the tires on the market, you'd see that comfortable tires tend to be the touring tires, which actually have hard compound that last a high mileage. Conversely, it's the performance tires that have stiff sidewalls and soft compound for better handling.
I'd say it's better to have your tires inflated 2-3 PSI over than to have them 2-3 PSI under. The reason is because modern radial tires have separate belts for the tread and sidewalls. Bias ply tires don't have separate belts for the tread area so you'll notice more wear in the center of a bias ply tire if it's over inflated. Heat kills rubber so if your tires are under inflated, they'll be more susceptible to disintegrating while driving due to the heat build up.
Cooley is the best!
I've been very pleased with Nitto G2s on my Tundra.
I agree about crappy OEM tires. My '17 Subaru Outback 2.5 Limited has some crappy Bridgestone Duelers on it. At 26,000 miles the tires are about shot... not so much on treadwear, but on noise and ride quality.
I agree about the Bridgestone Duelers. They came on my 2018 Murano. They are one of the worst tires I have ever owned.
2015 Outback had those same horrible tires, dangerous in the rain and dead by 20k.
The Duelers you get OEM are cheap and terrible. Get the Geolandars. Subie owners seem to like them.
They not under warranty so a lot of time they going to be cheap thing possible. If it is not high end car you don't get good one anyhow. ECO shit kind of thing.
Its the same with batteries. They put the minimum required one in the car to sell them out but they dont last.
I race a 560hp small block chevy dirt car on the track every weekend in the summer months, but I just bought a kia rio and have never been happier. It is super simple to work on and the tires were Michelin tires and still look brand new after 16,000 miles.
My Camry came with Bridgestone tires. I read AFTER I got it home to never ever ever ever drive a Camry off the lot with Bridgestone tires and insist that the other OEM tires, which were Michelin, be installed instead. Around 6,000 miles traction began to suffer, and by 12,000 wet traction was non-existant. I had a set of Pirelli tires put on at that point and 40,000 miles later they still have half their usable tread left.
I have exactly same experience with new Camry on bridgeston tires
Lots of great tips, very good video. I like how it's a longer duration with helpful information.
I'm just getting ready to replace the Hankooks I put on my Accord 25K miles ago. I don't drive on bad roads, kept them at the right pressure, rotated and aligned but they're already shot. I guess I should be glad I got 10K more than Explorer owners.
I live in the DFW area and own a 2015 Ford Escape. The original OEM tires were a Michelin, I do not remember the model. I did everything you are supposed to do: checked pressure, rotated, etc. and I still only got about 32,000 mi. out of them (tire model was listed as a 50,000 mi tire). Had them replaced with with a better tire (Michelin Premier LTX with a 60,000 mi. warranty). Only got about 33,000 mi out of that set. I again did everything you are supposed to do: checked pressure on a regular basis, rotated, etc. I'm now on my 3rd set in 4 years. I do mostly in town driving. My $0.02USD is there is something about the roads around here, mostly made of concrete, and our worsening traffic that eats up tires.
I GOT 74k out of my michelins from the factory on my 06 passat. i was upset i didnt make it to 80.
heavy cars wear them out faster. entering corners, driving like an asshole, peeling out, tire pressure, etc all affect it.
Heavy foot on accelerator makes tires wear out real fast.
I bought a new 2019 Impreza. The tires are trash. I'm replacing them before the next winter. It felt like using bad summer tires in the winter. They're some Yokohama S4 tires.
My 2015 Sonata has over 43k miles on it. It still has the original Hanook tires, and they have plenty of tread left. My 2016 Silverado went 42k miles before I replaced the tires. My 2015 Wrangler had to have the tires replaced at 24k tires, but it is used extensively off road, so some of the lugs had been torn off.
"Crummy" tires on new cars reminds me of when factory tires would literally explode on the Ford Explorers in the 80's with the Explorer flipping over. We used to call them Ford Exploders.
You had en explorer in the ‘80’s? Impressive!
@@DS-wo8wr My mistake. 1990's.
Yes, the Firestone tires on those vehicles had problems, but the crashes were because people didn't know how to drive the new truck-based SUVs.
Billy Beemus no. Two entirely different things. There were MANY fatal accidents attributed to tread/belt separation on those tires. Accidents due to handling issues are a separate thing.
@@afcgeo882 - The issues were absolutely related. Tire failure alone does not cause accidents. But put an inexperienced driver into a tall, narrow vehicle and have a tire fail and then you start having accidents. The car magazines at the time did tests where they rigged the tires of a Ford Explorer to suddenly fail while they were doing handling tests. Those tests proved that the Explorer was no less safe than any other similar vehicle - when driven by an experienced driver. But when people that had driven front-wheel drive sedans all their life started buying trucks with "twin I-beam suspensions" and tried to drive those trucks the same way they drove their Honda Civic, they had issues. Then you throw faulty tires into the mix and a bad situation got even worse.
Thanks for video- qq: with tire pressure fluctuations due to temp changes here in WI, how to best keep pressure in line? Each of my tires read different pressures from start of driving, during heat up, and by end of driving. Also- if I change the tire brand from factory original to a new setup, is the tire pressure sticker inside the door still applicable? When should your tire pressure differ from door sticker? Thanks
One of the big ones that was not mentioned by Brian Cooley was the vehicle manufacturer specifies the tires, size, tire pressure and COST. The cheaper the manufacturer can get the tires the better for them. When I buy a new vehicle I never expect more then a couple years out of the original tires and normally I replace the tires with a longer lasting quality tire long before they are worn out.
Just looked at the disaster that Ford had in the Firestone tires a few years ago. After killing a few folks in Fords Exploder and the resulting finger pointing by both Ford and Firestone. Ford had to ultimately take responsibility for the fact that they were the ones specified the tires.
great video on tire management. Looking forward to more contents from your channel
I’ve personally found Hankooks to be sporadic - had the S2 Ventus Nobles on my Infiniti G35S - one set I peeled off and did donuts, got +/-40k mi with them. Replaced those with the same exact type b’c I loved how they handled & after 3 months they were already wearing according to the tire shop who put them on ... although I wasn’t doing the same “tricks” or traveling as much. Of course it doesn’t help that my OEM wheels are staggered thus the inability to rotate - just the luck of my draw.
Thank you Cooley
I mean, is that their first brand new vehicle? Cause tires from the factory tend to be softer and don’t last very long (15-20k). Buy new tires with mileage warranty and get over it.
People should know most all-season (ahem 3 season) tires are utter crap in any snow.
The OEM Hankook Kinergy GT on my Civic are good on dry and wet pavement but once it gets under 45 degrees or it snows I throw on Michelin X-Ice Xi3 on steelies. Drove through a couple of bad snow events this winter (hasn't been an especially rough one for my area) and never got stuck. I've even gone up several icy hills from a dead stop and had no issues.
100%! Only winter tires perform well below 40°. They are designed to do so. All-season tire compound (rubber) is too hard at those temperatures and provides little traction. Get a set of good winter tires like Nokian, Michelin Ice or Blizzaks and you will save your life or you family’s. Since you drive them only 2-3 months, they will last you a looooong time, and your all-seasons will last longer too, so don’t worry about the extra cost. Just get steel wheels for those winters and get them in a small diameter, so you get lots of sidewall. You’ll get a sifter ride and they’re better in the snow too.
All weather tires are a great compromise
@@joejamtgaard9382 they would be if they existed, which they do not.
I have a set of X-Ice Xi3 tires on separate rims for the wife's car. We have used them for 5 winters now and they still have more than half the tread left. Those tires still perform as well now on the snow and ice as they did when brand new. I would recommend those tires to anybody.
Honda Ridgeline came with Michelin tires, 7 years later plenty of tread but they're cracking.
Hey, there he is! I used to love the ensemble of CNET's BuzzOutLoud. Ultra informative and great delivery.
go for tires with exceptional grip. nevermind if it cldnt last u a million miles because those rubbers are the only thing that keeps u connected to the road. u can save on tires but u might pay more for the damages to ur car
akupehsluarketatAR not if you can’t replace them constantly, leading you to drive in bald ones.
Being in the tire business for years I was hoping heu would answer CORRECTLY the reason why OE tires do not wear as long as most would like. The automobile manufacturers designate to the tire manufacturers what they want in the tire specifications based on: A. Quite ride. B. Traction/handling charateristics. THATS ALL. ..Therefore. The composition of the materials used in the OE tire production (Rubber, polymers ect) reflect this. A high mileage tire has many additional composites in the rubber to make them,,,,less softer..therefore more prone to harsher noises and stiffer ride feel...a harder composition if you will. . The auto manufacturers want to sell cars. When you test drive your new car, your looking for RIDE characteristics and not concerned about tire longevity. When it "drives nice" ..or "handles great" thats the selling point of the vehicle. Want higher longevity tires? Go buy them right after you take delivery of your new vehicle. Or better yet. have the dealer install a higher grade tire as part of the deal. It happens more than you think.
Awsome...now I can apply this information to my motorcycle as well. Thank you.
This was excellent. But I wouldn't trust the tire shop... they may want to sell you a high profit tire, or the one's that they happen to have in stock, not necessarily the best fit for the car.
Do your own research first. And find a tire shop that doesn't upsell you. ;)
Then you have serious trust issues because if you can’t trust the product specialist, then you can’t trust anyone. Their business depends on their reputation and referrals.
If you can’t trust a tire shop, then who can you trust? In that sense, you can’t trust the dealer either. In my experience, I’ve always known what tire I wanted from the get go and called the tire shop and asked what their price was and if it was in stock, all before I get in the car to go to the shop.
John James how would you know tires? Were you born with that knowledge?
George L there’s a marvelous thing that people use to research whatever they want to know called the internet.
14,600 Miles and tires were shot on a Nissan I got new....I did what I could on fighting it...but in the end had to buy a new set.....so mad....
Don’t go to the Firestone on Dempster in niles Illinois they’ll rip you off.
Don't go to any Firestone. They use scare tactics and won't release your vehicle until you agree to them doing more work. Then you find out the work they performed wasn't even done correctly.
True firestone lost me for sure
Firestone, I haven't been to a "tire" type place in my whole life. I bought a set off tires from Montgomery Wards, remember them. All my other tires have come from Discount Tire, well I think I once bought winter tires from Tirerack. I went to Firestone to by their lifetime alignment...that is all I used them for in the past, I assume they did the work. If I needed tires elsewhere I go to Costco they have great prices too.
I know a guy with a 2013 jeep with 110k on his bf Goodrich at . Even has a receipt to prove it. I got 65 k on my last set of tires on my truck and I never rotate. Never. I think of it as the back tires get beat up hauling trailers and I dont want those on the front and have a blowout with horses in the trailer.
I don't really understand the problem here. I bought a new truck last year at the same time brother-in-law bought his. His tires were a low value brand and he know that he would have to replace them soon, mine were a quality premium from a quality brand and I expect them to last about 5 years. No surprise, we both know what we bought. Want good tires, pay for them.
the problem here is that when you spend several thousand dollars buying a brand new vehicle they should already come with quality tires that will last 35k to 40k miles
Tire rotation isn’t recommended for most AWD systems as it can damage the system...many manufacturers specifically say not to do it, so make sure you check the manual and don’t assume your tire dealer or local mechanic will know. Instruct them not to do it if you have such a car.
Great informative video
A lot of it has to do with suspension geometry of the vehicle and how it changes as it goes through daily driving. The UTQG tire wear rating is also very imperfect as it's essentially unregulated.
Maybe I overlooked tires when purchasing my i3...
U overlooked more than tires
Rodo Fuentes
You overlooked a real BMW, otherwise you would’ve bought a new 7 series.
Lol you should of bought a Audi..
I was looking for something a bit more electric and the 7 series iPerformance wasn’t out yet
My 2013 Hyundai Sonata came with Kumho tires. At 41,000 miles (all highway) with lots of tread left the belts separated! Discount Tire (who handles Kumho) prorated them and I had a set of Michelin‘s (60,000 mile warranty) installed. They lasted until 84,000 miles (all highway) and still had 1/3 of their tread left! The only reason I had them replaced was because I hit a pipe in the road causing one of the tires to bubble in the sidewall. I replaced them with a set of Yokohama radials only because they didn’t have Michelin‘s in my size.
Recovering New Yorker which michelins were they?
Bibi Weeby Green fuel savers
I’m still in NYC, so my tires take a BEATING. From the constant stop and go to dodging potholes on the BQE... I get 30k on tires, at most. My Camry’s OEM tires were Goodyear Assurance and they were shot at around 18,000. My mechanic laughed at them and said they’re the cheapest thing Goodyear makes. Since then I’ve had Generals (2 sets) and Bridgestone Turanza Serenity Plus. The Generals are very good for the money and last about 30k. The Bridgestones were expensive, super quiet, super soft and lasted 45k, but they never had great grip. I am currently on a set of General Altimax RT43s and they’re fantastic. Great grip, great price and good sound insulation/dampening. I chose them based on their wet and snow traction, through TireRack. They’ve been excellent in both environments. Best of all, they’re wearing out very slowly and evenly. A great tire that doesn’t cost a fortune. General is an American company, owned by Continental tires (Germany), but my tires were made in Romania, if you care about that stuff.
George L Same here. I bought those general atlimatix RT 43s Made in USA and very good tires. They got good reviews on Tire Rack and consumer reports
billjoang they’re an American company, but my tires were made in Romania. They also make tires in Equador and Slovakia.
Costco sells a brand name tires and an excellent service. Sometimes they offer a free installation and $70 off and they used a nitrogen air. I loved Costco. Last year I’m getting $300 dollars back from Costco executive member VISA rewards and $90 cash back from Costco executive member. Some year more or less depends on how much I spent in that year.
The only annoying thing is they won't install tires that aren't exactly OEM. I wanted 175/65 R15 tires but since Toyota specifies a 185/60 R15 Costco wouldn't install even though the only difference is 10mm width.
@@randomvideosn0where Was the load rating the same or better? That's an important thing to look for.
@@oldtwinsna8347 Better load rating, better speed rating, and better traction rating. And it's a Yaris so not like I am going to be driving crazy or have heavy loads.
I can't believe how many people think that the tire warranty is how long the tread is going to last on the tire. The Fiesta ST comes with a ultra high performance summer Tire with a 140 treadwear rating it's sticky. The guy has obviously bought a vehicle he can't really afford and is pissed because he has to buy new tires. The car payment for driving that miniature School bus is to much for him.
Always get insurance on tires worth more than 150 a piece.
Also to make sure you have good sticky tires. Be sure to lick them
Mmmm. Tastes rubbery.
needless to say Cooley is the best
6:27 is that an OEM 5-lug wheel for a Type 1 VW (i.e., a classic Beetle)? LOL
Andrew Macdonald sure looks like it.
50 miles after purchase.
Tires started thumping
the Jeep Dodge Dealership
put 48 PSI in Dunlop ENASAVE 205/55R16 91H
Corolla 2020 tires. SMH-
Thump thump thump.
$600 to replace with stronger sidewall tires.
Their MAVIS Heavy Load
Tires 65 K miles warranty
34 Front 32 Rear.
A little noisey but they handle pot holes and snow excellent.
I highly recommemd taking a air pressure gage ( or 2)
and a long 50 mile city highway test drive.
I'll never make the mistake
again.
Seeing as the tires have a treadwear rating of 500 you would assume that is going to be a significant number of miles. If those tires are supposed to last 5 times the mileage of a Hankook tire rated at 100 then that would be 3600mi. Sounds like these tires are not "free from defects" as they aren't living up to their stated lifetime. Probably explains why Hankook are already prorating replacement tires. I'd personally learn more about tire ratings and use that info to push for free replacement.
My Peugeot 308 came with Michelin sport 3 and did around 30k km with the front set.
Very good video. Thanks
Love listening and learning from Cooley. What’s your opinion on run flats that came from the dealership on the car?
Lots of people complain about the treadlife on Firestone FR740 that come stock on the Corollas but in all honesty the tire is rated at 260TW rating yet they have been decent for me since they are about to need replacement at 40k miles, my next tires are gonna be GMax RS summer tires which are highly praised by TireRack and have been amazing on my Cobalt.
Low tire pressure causes the tires to deform more while driving, generating more heat. It also causes tires to fold over more in corners. These other aspects contribute to the fact that under-inflation is much more common, on top of the fact that neglect is the default mistake people make.
Pay extra to have discount tires warranty. They will replace for free or give you a big discount on a set of tires
I’ve gotten 38,000 miles so far out of my Goodyear Efficient Grip SUV...I bought them based on results from real world testing in Germany that gave them the highest score. Anyone looking for new tires should look at ADAC test results, they’re freely available and they have their own testing ground and laboratory.
One thing not discussed here is the week/year of manufacture. It is also printed on the tire and the general recommendation is to replace tires older than six years old even of they have tread remaining.
I love Cooley.
My 2002 s10 4.3 lasted 10 years 70 thousand miles Unlroyal tiger paw
Chuck Gates I had those same tires and several Chevys I bought. They did last a long time but winter traction was pretty low and they squealed like a stuck pig whenever you turned a corner in a parking lot.
I got used to driving really slow in parking lots to avoid embarrassment of squealing tires.
I usually got rid of them around 60-70,000 miles with some tread left on them.
On a motor cycle touring tires. Yes they last, but one have one steering and one pushing. So I always bought the sticky ones. And they cost more and wear out faster. On a Suburban, well drive that differently, unlike some who think rolling a SUV is fun. I had a FJ 60 with 12.5 x 33 on it. Yep drove like it was dump truck, besides it got 17 MPG at 55 and 11 at 70. In the winter I ran it 10 lbs lower than summer for highway use. Same with off road, lower pressure, more tire touching the ground. Big difference between the 45 lb on the side of the tire and 28 lbs in the snow. 28 lbs or 38 lbs chucks holes,, meh. 18 inches of rubber between the ground and the rim. Me thinks tires are much cheaper than a new vehicle.
I would never buy Hankook tires. The only experience I have had with them was on a brand new Ford truck at 8500 miles a rear tire disintegrated. I was pulling an empty 16 foot trailer. Fortunately I had just entered a 45 mph speed zone and as mentioned the trailer was empty. Went back to the Ford dealer and they installed a new one no charge. But the fact remains if I had been loaded it may have been a disaster.
If they are like motorcycle manufacturers, they sell you a car with lower quality tires than can be purchased from a tire store. Even if they are the same brand and model of tire! Expect to get low mileage from the original tires and change them out for better ones when the time comes.
The best cheap tires for sedans are Falken G4 Pro A/S. They do make lots of noise, and do move your car if there’s even a little crack on the road. But these tires are phenomenal when cornering, they make your car seem as if it’s on rails. I never had any slipping issues, and in rain they ride just like when it’s dry.
I’ve got a 2009 Dodge Ram 1500 with the original tires on it. Gonna buy new tires this year in May 2019.
Hello
Yes, it is typical for New Tires on New Cars to last 30K or less
Camber and Toe can be effected by curbs, pot holes and hitting speed bumps too fast
if the road you drive are poor get an alignment when you rotate the tires
and
the low profile tire thing you talked about is so true
I have a 17 Ford 150 that came with 17 in wheels
I want to know what the effect of getting new wheels, 17 in for the front and 22 for the rear
I saw a guy in a 4runner once that looked like he had 100 PSI in his tires. You could see the edges floating above the road from behind. He probably just filled it until it didn’t look “flat” and was really hard.
My 2004 Honda Pilot came with crappy Goodyear Integrity tires. They are essentially passenger car tires put on a 4000+ pounds SUV. They were downright treacherous in the rain. Switched to Michelin LTX M&S and the difference was amazing. The ride was a a little firmer as the tires are designated as "Light-Truck" tires but were much safer and lasted much longer. Go with Michelin. . .
goodyear was bought by a chinese company 2 of my goodyears came apart after 20k miles.
I am very surprised you failed to mention dry steering!
In my view, dry steering is the number one cause of premature tire wear.
I have hankook tires on my hyundai kona from the factory. They are very nice. The best thing to do for long tire life is check air pressure regularly.
The Hankook tire is supposed to have a treadwear rating of 500.
As always, I learn and enjoy your videos. My mechanic wants me to put in two more pounds of pressure than what is on the label on the front drivers side door. He states that it is better when you drive where there are a lot of potholes and that there will be better tire wear in general. He states that the pressure on the label is for comfort and not longevity.
Keep in mind that if temperatures drop after you put in the label pressure, your tires will lose pressure and become under-inflated. Your mechanic is giving good advice.
Good advice.
Some tire manufacturers just make better tires. Buy the mid grade or better from your preferred tire vendor.
And it's worth noting most tire makers also have budget/crappy tires, so your advice works mostly because no one should buy the cheapest offering from ANY tire maker.
Thanks for this new tire info validation. I've been warning my wife about this forever. She has 60k original miles on her 2013 Sorento.
My Acura came with tires with 50,000 mile warranty, and it lasted 56,000. Only time my tires wear fast is with summer tires on my Subaru
The stock tires on my last car lasted 40K miles, and I probably could have gone at least 5K further. No jackrabbit starts, don't accelerate around curves, and don't stop on a dime. Look ahead for stoplights and stop signs and coast when you can.
great man no body can do any car review like u do
can we a Cooley own channel
Yes yes.... He is only one I watch on here
New tires drives smooth 👀
OEM tires are made for the manufacturers, there is a mark on the tire to designate oem. There is a aftermarket match for the oem tires, but it is missing the extra mark that designates it as oem, same looks, tread, marks, except the oem mark. OEM tires are softer and have less sidewall and tread layers. So, on your new car, you get a better ride and initially better traction and grip. New cars have all new parts that need to be broken in (brake in period) so they ride stiffer. Benefits for everyone initially, except the buyer later. Plus they cost the manufacturers less for two reasons, 1) they buy in bulk, and 2) they are a cheaper version of a tire that is already made (tire manufacturers don’t have to retool, just use less, and/or cheaper materials). 2017 Cruze LT, on Hancocks, 24,000, upgraded to indy 500 for less than $400, best choice ever. Sorry for the long comment.
oh please.. a friend of mine had the cheapest OEM tires on his 2014 Tacoma. Dunlop SP20. You cant get cheaper quality anywhere. They are as soft as butter. Usually out of tread by about 20K. He got 60K out them . Why? Because he checked the air pressure every fill up and rotated them every 5K miles. Also made sure his truck was in alignment.
I'm bald on the inner parts 😂
Even if the tires are branded and have a specific model that is being sold retail, it's not the same. The tire companies make that model specific for oems and they simply don't last as long. It's only a "trial" version of the retail product, and there's no way to tell the difference.
BTW the 96 cent Wal Mart
Pen size Air. Pressure Gage w/ deflator work excellent.
Get and use 2 of them for 100% accuracy. They should both gage the same.
Don't trust a Gas Station Gage.
a well understood OEM practice is to purchase the low bid on a tire by a relative unknown manufacture, spec the tire to meet the minimum and sell in groups of 5 so called spec tires. if purchasing NEW vehicle pay attention to the tread ware # on the side wall. If your purchasing a "performance" vehicle then you should understand that the tires are going to melt off like butter. the SUV/ P/u class should have a minimum of a 600-800 tread wear rating.
OEM tires is a crap shoot,the cheapest car (inflation adjusted) I ever bought was the 2015 focus and it came with decent lasting tires for as gripping as they were. Some of the highest end cars came with outright crap,yet that same tire retail was a better tire.🤦♂️
My 2015 focus tires OEM are bleh. They have maybe 20K miles on them as i swap em for winter tires each year and i think they may only last 5K to 10K more miles on them before they will neep replacing. Not the best, but certainly not the worst for OEM continentals.
venictos I had the pro contacts 215 50 17 and they was awesome in the wet and dry snow sucks and when they got down to 5-32 I did notice a drop in wet performance. I got 42k how’s your focus with winters?
Hi Brian I hear you talking about tire wears Hankook Tires I have Hankook tires on my car it's a 04 toyota Corolla I update the wheels in 2005 to 17 in they are all Hankook tires I don't do much balancing but every second oil change I rotate the tires 2019 and they are wearing pretty good
Hankook makes many different tires. Some are cheap and bad, some are expensive and good. Listen more carefully which tires he’s talking about specifically.
Hahahahahahaha Brian Cooley at his best!
The same thing happened with my 2016 Explorer Sport. My tires started pealing.
2 problems... Ford and tires... they never do it properly. Willing to bet its similar problem like the Firestone/SUV fiasco. Probably has the vehicle suspension set up so the tires "normal" air pressure is actually slightly underinflated. That will kill them fast. And factory alignment isnt always perfect either...
Driving a manual with engine braking saves me a lot of braking wear, and brake pad wear.
Either way you're putting the same stresses on the tire, but you do save the brake pads.
your comment is completely irreverent to the video. Saving brake wear, to increase drivetrain wear, guess which is more expensive to replace.
My car uses p225 /45R18 can I put a p225/50R18 on it to get a taller sidewall for a smoother ride?
My 2014 Cruze with its original low rolling resistance tires has 66+k miles and still has probably 20k left in them.
Why are you hating on car plug in tire pumps? Irresponsible of you. Why would you dissuade someone from literally the easiest way to keep your tires inflated? I don't know if the gauges on those things are just cheap, but you can just check it on an independent gauge, (like the inline one you showed, or a handheld one). But, you're not going to tell me that there is any difference between a tire inflated to the correct PSI with a cheap one vs. a full fledged air compressor, because pressure is pressure. Could you clarify this?
I have had terrible luck with the handheld pressure gauges. Having a subcompact car, I use a bicycle pump to check the pressure and add a few pounds as needed.
You can also look closely at the tires when you KNOW they are at the correct pressure, and look at them every few days. Soon, you will be able to determine the pressure within one or two PSI just by looking at them.
@@jeffw1267 I don't think that is great advice for most people and cars. It isn't an easy thing to get the exact pressure by sight. Pressure gauges are cheap and effective.
I have one of those cigarette socket ones, actually works pretty well, and don't need more than a few PSI at a time anyways. no benefit to using a "real" air compressor for topping off tires.
Funny, my 2016 Chevy Equinox came with Michelin tires.
What about donuts, do they wear my tires?
If you eat too many of them, sure.
Yeah cause you get fat and that adds wear
They'll make you wear larger pants...