OIL & FILTER CHANGE DIY TUTORIAL - Kawasaki Ultra 310 Series Jet Ski
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- An in-depth tutorial on changing the oil on the 2022 Kawasaki Ultra 310 series Jet Skis. This procedure is very similar for the STX, Ultra LX 160, and the SX-R.
Manual recommends changing oil every 25 hours and filter every 100 hours. I recommend changing both filter and oil every 25 hours minimum.
I use only the best quality synthetic oil - always ensure that you use the proper viscosity oil for your region (temperature) and ALWAYS CHECK YOUR OIL before each ride- keep an extra quart in your ski at all times.
Remember that this JetSki has all the characteristics of a high performance motorcycle and a high performance boat.
This means that the 2022 Kawasaki Ultra 310 requires a strict maintenance regimen to remain reliable.
#jdswaterworld
![Tech Topics: Review & Comparison of Different Fogging Oils for the Kawasaki Ultra 310 Jet Ski [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tPhmMj47eDU/mqdefault.jpg)
![Tech Topics: Review & Comparison of Different Fogging Oils for the Kawasaki Ultra 310 Jet Ski [4K]](/img/tr.png)
Put a plastic bag around the filter after you loosen it a bit. Unscrew it the rest of the way and let the filter fall into the bag. All the oil goes into the bag. Works like a charm.
I got my 10 hours in but the oil looks great. I extracted the oil but it looks good but replacing it anyway, of course, I am 1 quart short. I will replace the filter at 25 hours. JD, I really appreciate all your video. Your video is valuable to me.
Great, thanks for posting! I’m glad my videos are helpful! Make sure you grease the pivot bushing too 😎!
did u have oil in the botom of your ski ?
One thing I've learned over the years, it's very easy to overfill these motors and I always leave the dipstick lifted up a bit from fully seated for 10 to 15 minutes to let oil drain down before checking it. Overfilling the sump is great way to get more blowby, which the stock catch can just recycles back to the engine (mine has a reservoir and manual drain that I suck out every ride to prevent it from contaminating the oil in the sump - the blowby is nasty and smells like gas)
Thank you for your comments! That’s a good idea with the manual drain.
love your vids, just bought 2015 310r. learning a lot from you,
Awesome thanks for the comment! These things are very reliable if you maintain them the correct way!
Heading to the garage right now to change mine! Thanks for posting this JD!
No problem hope it was helpful! My oil was fairly dark but not bad at all. This was my 10 hour oil change, with 15 total on the ski now. I will do another change and filter every 25 hours. Kawasaki says to check all the hose clamps and supercharger drive belt as well at 10 hrs…I found a few lose hose clamps on the supercharger ducting and a bit of “dust” from the belt in my hull.
@@JDsWaterWorld Did you remove the belt cover or just look around. It looks like a huge process to get to the belt housing per the manual. My original filter must have been put on with an impact wrench!! It stripped at the bottom and was a pain to get off. Got it after a few hours and modifying a strap wrench. Uggh Thanks for the time it takes to post the videos!
Jer, yes you have to remove the black plastic cover over the belt to do a good inspection. It’s only 2 10mm bolts, but you must remove the catch can to get to it. I filmed the process and will be posting a video later this week about inspecting the belt and tensioner assembly. Yes, The old filter can be a pain to get off- doesn’t matter if it gets all mangled since it’s going to be disposed of anyway! I have a pliers- type wrench that looks almost like forceps that helps getting the old filter off. If you put a small piece of cloth or tower over the filter it helps with grip taking it off.
@@JDsWaterWorld You are awesome JD! Your videos are coming out at the perfect time for a new ski owner like myself! Thanks again.
@@JDsWaterWorldeveryday I learn more from you video library. AWESOME.
Awesome , thank you👍🏻
No problem at all! Thanks for watching ✌🏻
Great content & information JD. Oil & filter changes are so important for keeping ole girl’s engine running at its best! Thanks again for sharing.
Billy D
Thanks for the support Billy! I know you maintain your skis very well- as you know, if you put the time in to maintain them right- they give you the hours back!
@@JDsWaterWorld So so true, Gina has 588hrs to date on her 2016 Kawasaki 310R! Kawasaki has amazing skis.
@@LifeBeginsOnTheWaterWOW 588 hours?? Good lord reading this just made my day that's almost hard to believe!!...I have the 40th Anniversary 2014 Ultra 310X with 68 hours and heard '14-16 310's had piston issues so I'm an absolute nervous wreck about this thinking I should sell mine even though it's perfect😢...Do you know more specifics about this situation??. I think Kawi tried to make the pistons stronger for the 310 for a few years but it made them more brittle, that's all I know.. if anyone can chime in on this its appreciated 🙄🙄🙄
The piston issue was corrected In 2017, has your ski received the factory directed modification on the pistons? If not, you want to get those pistons changed out asap to any part number post 2017 or pre 2014 (300 pistons). If you are running the defective pistons, it’s a ticking time bomb…
@@JDsWaterWorld Damn thanks for depressing me, Ugh..😔. Brisbane Kawasaki said this affected the 15-16's with a bad batch of pistons where the Ringland would break. He mentions that failure is still quite rare that he's only seen 6 failures in 8 years and they sell like 175 units a year so I'm hoping this isn't just a ticking time bomb and still pretty rare.. Billy's 588 hour 2016 I don't think had his replaced either..I could be wrong.
Do you know if there's a recall and Kawi will still replace them whether under warranty or not? I doubt my '14 still has any warranty left IF that's the year affected... Mine only has 68 hours on it
Well done
Thank you for the comment
Hi great content...do you have a link for that oil syphon pump?
Many thanks
I’m guessing the process is similar on the Ultra LX and STX models. My dealer charged me $200 for an oil change, so an extractor is likely a good investment. Thanks
Yes, the process for the Ultra LX (my other ski) is exactly the same- without the engine cover. The filter is a bit different to get out due to taller engine compartment sides- buts basically same procedure.
The cost of the filter and oil for me was $86.94 with tax. Plus my labor, so $200 is not a bad price considering the material cost and labor cost! Oil disposal free, and “shop material” is $5 of paper towels…The tech probably only gets $25 an hour, the rest goes to dealer as profit probably.
@@JDsWaterWorld- I will Google to purchase an oil extractor, but what is the make of the one you use? Do you recommend the one you have or over time prefer a different extractor? Thanks.
Changing my oil this week on my 310. I was going to get the KPO full synthetic marine 4 stroke oil . Do you recommend me to use that what your using instead
No, the KPO full synthetic is the correct oil. This video was done before they came out with the new KPO line and change the bottle from the gold one you see in the video.
Hi jd.. after the oil change do you have to reset anything in the display ? How do you count the hours for next service ?
You can reset the maintenance reminder which is the little wrench that shows up in the right top corner of the display
How critical is leveling the engine? My ski lives on my boat dock and I have no trailer. The EZ Dock is not completely level. I'm assuming leveling is important to measure oil level once filled, but is it also critical to ensuring the new oil gets to all the engine parts it needs to? Do you have any advice for my situation?
The biggest reason for leveling is to ensure you are not overfilling or under filling the engine. The ski needs to be perfectly level for the dipstick reading to be accurate. You will probably have to change your oil, and then pull up to a dock or something to check the oil level while the ski is leveled in the water.
@@JDsWaterWorld Sounds reasonable, thank you.
JD, I’m going out for my second ride today on my ‘22 ultra 310 lx-s. I checked my oil level with cold engine and my oil is above the top notche which looks high to me. Would I get a more normal reading with a warm engine? ---- I don’t have hose adapters yet to run water and have engin going yet. --- I believe on a different video you mentioned that too much oil can be damaging? Just wondering if my high reading is due to cold engine.
Will not matter if it's cold or warm, but you need to make sure that the engine is perfectly level using a bubble level. Raise or lower the tongue of your trailer as necessary until the engine is 100% level or your reading on the dipstick will be wrong. if the oil is overfilled, it will force excessive oil into the can, and then into the airbox and then into the intercooler you don't wanna overfill these machines
@@JDsWaterWorld thank you jd. I did indeed level the ski per one of your instructional videos (I’m learning a lot from you and sending people to your video library) and being perfectly level, the oil was was almost 1/4 inch ABOVE the top notch on the dip stick. --- Is this considered too much oil?
So I decided to not go to the lake. If in your opinion this is too high a reading , then I will purchase the oil extractor you recommend and remove some oil and then have oil on hand if I remove too much. I will keep doing a little at a time and checking dip stick. So glad about your videos as I remembered you saying somewhere "do not overfill your oil." I’m finding out some dealerships for whatever reason on occasion overfill with too much oil.
Yeah not a bad idea to take a bit back out! The west marine brand extractor is the most durable out of all the ones I've bought over the years!
AMSOIL? What do you think?
I'm new in jetski world with 310x 2022. I'm a snowmobiler and i always use AMSOIL.
Who makes oil for Kawasaki???
I am not sure who makes the Kawasaki oil, but it is a great product with which I have never had an issue. The Amsoil is not JASO MA1 and MA2 certified like the Kawi oil. The Amsoil is also more expensive and less readily available in my locale. I'm sure the Amsoil products are great
Speaking of oil, what temp ranges should I be seeing when going all out in the ocean? I hit 233F today is that normal?
I have not seen mine run quite that hot, but I use Kawasaki full synthetic oil that dissipates heat better. That temp is fine, as long as you have a solid stream of water coming out the bypass and no temp alarm on the dash I wouldn’t worry about it.
@@JDsWaterWorld I didn't check what the dealership put in but I'll use that from now on. Oil is fresh since they had to do a boil out
Love your videos. I just got a 23 310X. Manual says change oil @ 25 hours but been reading some folks talk about needing to in the first 10? Any thoughts?
I changed mine at 10 for the first time, but probably overkill. Mostly I did it because I don’t know if they used synthetic or conventional oil from the factory/dealer and I want only synthetic oil in my machine. Changing oil more often will never hurt the machine, just an added cost. Kawasaki builds to closer tolerance and runs all engines in a test tank before they leave the factory so not as much break-in wear as with other manufacturers is what I’ve been told
@@JDsWaterWorld Awesome, Thanks.
Hey JD, I went wave jumping yesterday and I would come down and my feet would slip like crazy! My last ski I had the Ultra LX and the hydro gap turf seemed better especially with the ridges in them. Any suggestions for non slippery padding for you feet. I saw you put the green on and it looks awesome. How is the traction?
Yeah I noticed the stock mats especially on the X and LX-S are smooth and can get a bit slippery depending on your footwear. I have the Unlimited PWC brick cut traction mats- I really like the diamond cut too- due to the 3d texture they do provide a lot of extra grip compared to stock. Yeah I just did hydroturf on my STX, I looked and noticed they do not have cuts for the new 310/160 yet but sure they will soon
Boy, oh boy, impossible to remove the filter. As I’m upside down I’m not even exactly sure what way to turn. Can you elaborate?
If the filter is seized on, try spraying it with liberal amounts of wd-40, pb blaster etc and let it soak. You may need to remove the intake manifold if it’s really stuck on there. I have another video about using the special filter wrench: czcams.com/video/pJigpDZRRkk/video.htmlsi=dy6r0Rvk8d4y4J3b
If that doesn’t work you can stick a large Philips screw driver through the filter and try to torque it off that way. If you are on the port side of the ski (left if facing forward) then the filter loosens by turning it to the right. Good luck
Jd I have a 2024 310 ultra lx-s just hot 10 hrs today. Does Kawasaki limit the rpm at the standard services? 10-25-50 hr etc? I'm asking because my ski wouldn't go over 7k rpm today. Everything checks out ok.. In launch control it would hit 8k then back right to 7k. That's running at 60-62 mph. Conditions were good.
No the rpm is not limited by the ECU...was it going over 7k rpm before on previous rides?
Yes it was. If I use launch control it hits 8k. Then the rpm won't go over 7k. Ski had trouble hitting 60-62. I'm going to start by changing the plugs. I don't feel like the plugs are fouled. Motor running fine
With only 10 hours- I'd take the ski back and let the dealer solve the issue. It could be a fuel related issue- the pump pressure would have to be checked- I have had a few guys contact me with similar rpm/ speed issue and it turned out to be the fuel pump on brand new skis
Changing my oil for the very first time on this ski!! Any important updates that you think I should know of prior to this video? Thanks
Yes, Kawasaki launched their new line of KPO Full Synthetic Jet Ski oil after I did that video- use that oil- in my opinion it’s the best money can buy for your Ultra 310:
www.kawasaki.com/en-us/shop/maintenance-products/performance-oils/k6102250001q/KPO-Jet-Ski-Watercraft-4-Stroke-Oil-Quart-10W
Also don’t overfill😭
@@JDsWaterWorld That's the exact one I used lol! I read the manual and it said 5.8. Emptied all of the old oil and used 5 quarts plus about a half of the 6th one. Checked the oil stick and it's ready to roll!! Salt water this weekend ughhh but can't wait to get some waves!! The Oil Filter is a pain in the butt to take off, especially first time with it being factory sealed. Anyways, love your videos JD and Go Green!!
Also, looking into buying a new ECU if you have any recommendations off the top of your head. Just want a little bit more top speed and overall power. Nothing too crazy. Thanks again
Kspeed all the way..email them and tell them I sent you over- maybe you can get a discount or something. I run the Kspeed Stage 1, and the tune has been flawless. Check out my comparison video here:
New Kawasaki Ultra 310LX Jet Ski ECU Tune Comparison - Riva vs. Kspeed vs. Stock
czcams.com/video/4I_IJLjjDE4/video.html
If you have to start engine first before turning on water to flush…. What about when you back your trailer ski into water and turn on? Or when you turn on ski in water already?
So when you have a hose hooked up to the ski, you are actively forcing water into the cooling system via a bypass flushing port. If the engine is off, water will fill flow back into your engine, causing severe damage.
When you are in the water, your ski relies on cooling water forced into the system via the jet pump. If the engine is not running, the jet pump is not pumping water into your cooling system.
Are you able to make a detailed video on the first service please? Other than oil change.
The Initial service would be at 10 hours where basically you just check all those hose clamps, supercharger belt and spark plugs- very minor. The most important thing is to change the oil at 25 hours and fill her up with Kawasaki Full synthetic oil. The manual states you can change the filter every 100 hours, but I change both the oil and filter and spark plugs every 25. I have comprehensive videos on the supercharger belt, the spark plugs, the bilge breather, the jet pump, and more already published. I will put together a short overview video though, thanks for the idea!
I have been learning a lot from your videos and really appreciate you taking the time to show us how this beast works and what maintenance it needs. A short video would be great as some of us don’t know what to exactly look for. Thanks again.
@@JDsWaterWorld JD, just to clarify, you mentioned here "fill her up with Kawasaki Full Synthetic 15w40 oil but in the video you show 10W-40. Sorry I don't want to mess it up lol. Please know that you are the only source I utilize to maintain my Ski which it's perforimg great to date. Thank you for this video!
I edited the comment..whoops! Actually either weight would be fine but Kawasaki only sells a 10w40 watercraft oil they don’t have a 15w40- thanks for catching that!
Hey JD, l noticed a question about oil temperature amongst the comments, so what's the temp meant to sit on when the ski is fully warmed up ?
Mine sits on 101celius
Where are you located? What’s the ambient air and water temp? What viscosity oil are you using? That seems high for a resting idle
Jd I have a question? Something I just thought about. I have 22 ultra it stays docked at our place on lake. Sits on one of the drive on floating pwc ports. What’s your thought on backing it off into water and it not running? Do you think there is any way to much water can get forced in and into engine?
You are talking about launching it? Or about water lapping go against the pump while it’s stored? I wouldn’t keep the ski in contact with fresh water (marine growth) but I doubt any water would be forced into the engine or exhaust from just launching the ski off the floating dock…never run the ski for more than avoid 15 seconds while it’s out of the water or water is not connected…even though it’s fresh water, make sure you fog the supercharger after each use for longevity!
We lost our oil fill cap and I was wondering if you have any idea what type or size of cap I am supposed to buy. We have bought a few but none of them fit
Lucky for you this same cap is used on many different years and models.
Here is the part for the cap: 16115-1064 CAP-OIL FILLER
Here is the part for the o-ring. It might come with the cap but not sure. 92055-1295 RING-O,38X1.9
Call your dealer to order those parts, or try searching the part number on Google.
Here is a link to Partzilla which has the cap in stock:
www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/16115-1064
JD will you be doing a spark plug change as well?
I checked my plugs and they looked good as new- just make sure they aren’t covered in carbon and that they are gapped correctly. The plugs for this thing are not cheap!
Hello friend, can you please guide me? My kawasaki 300 supercharger is entering water into the intake, it will be damaged in the intercooler. Can you please tell me how to try it or what will be the reason why it has so much water accumulated with oil?
So are you sure the water isn’t entering the intake from the intercooler? If it is in fact coming from the supercharger, then your supercharger likely needs to be replaced. There are cooling lines running to the supercharger drive unit- and if water got into that gearbox and into the rotors, it’s a short time before the whole assembly fails.
Unfortunately, I don’t think you can rebuild the supercharger gearbox…you can try to find a good used unit on eBay or you can buy a new supercharger $$$
@Anderfren Ugat maybe I did not understand your comment from before..if you think the intercooler is leaking water, you can pressure test the intercooler and confirm whether or not that’s the cause.
I see you use the 10 40 full synthetic. Is that better than the Kawasaki watercraft 10 40?
I did this video before they came out with the new KPO watercraft 10-40 full synthetic- this gold label has been superseded by the Blue label KPO Watercraft Full Synthetic which is what I use now.
Thanks for the fast reply JD! You’re content is the best for maintenance, tips, and all around info for the new ultras. Keep it up!
Anyone of you know how much oil need to be refill from "low" to "high" mark on dipstick? I think that could be an useful information to know with the goal to avoid to overfill in event that oil level goes low...
No clue- probably a quart
@@JDsWaterWorld Thanks for your reply and all info that you gave us thru yours videos! A quart sound OK, like for cars here in EU where the gap between the two levels is that.
I did an oil change on my 23 ultra 310 yesterday. I was able to extract 5.7ish liters. Is this normal?
Way Overfilled..unless engine is completely dry, 5.8 qt or 5.5 Liters is max capacity. When changing oil and filter you can typically extract about 4.5liter just under 5qt. when you refill make sure engine is level and don’t overfill
@@JDsWaterWorld I put in about 5.5 liters. I didn’t run the ski yet. So no damage. How much oil should I take out?
Level the ski, then check the oil and see where it falls on the dipstick. If it’s above the high mark, remove some oil. If your oil is overfilled you will get excessive blowby in your oil separator and loss of performance.
Does kawasaki not sell an oil change kit? I couldn't even buy the oil off their site!
I don’t think they sell a kit, I get my oil from Amazon
Kawasaki 4 Stroke Jet Ski Watercraft PWC 10W-40 Full Synthetic kit
a.co/d/8qILv97
That’s just the oil, no filter. You technically don’t need to change the filter with the first oil change (according to the manual) but I say it can’t hurt for $16!
@@JDsWaterWorld thanks! I'll probably buy the filter too might as well
What filter removal tool did you use??
A standard oil filter wrench- this uses 64.3mm wrench same as pretty much every Japanese car
On my 2014 Ultra 310x my manual says I can use 20/50w it's 115 degrees in Vegas. Can I use a Valvoline 20/50w VR1 oil? Ty...
Yeah with that kind of temp that should be fine. Make sure you are running full synthetic- I believe the VR1 comes on both synthetic and blend. The Rotella synthetic has never let me down, although since I got my 310 I have only run Kawasaki brand 15w40 full synthetic- I wonder if they sell a heavier weight
@@JDsWaterWorld OK thanks I'll look into the VR1 further. It's rare that oils do 20/50 I think Mobile 1 has the 20/50. It's very slim pickings with this weight so there's not a lot of selection.. Do these 310's have air filters that need to be changed like cars?
@Sea Tine there is no air filter, but there is an exhaust filter that must be changed, as well as a few maintenance items that require regular attention- including the supercharger tensioner pivot bushing - see my videos on that stuff
What’s the weight of the oil
10w-40 Full synthetic
Refer to your manual for your specific climate
@@JDsWaterWorld AMS Oil dealer AMS or nothing. 10W40 is about right for the engine
Dog pee pads work excellent under the oil filters.
Yeah good idea!
Am I the only one having trouble removing the filter?? Literally taking me hours to get it off…
Others have had trouble too, must have been over tightened. Do you have a filter wrench tool?
@@JDsWaterWorldI have been using multiple tools and it hasn’t budged. My last resort might be a screw driver… any recommendations? Also, if I’m on the side where the filter is at facing it, I turn left correct ?
Made in China… bruh really?
I know 🤦🏻♂️ they all are
@@JDsWaterWorld you would think that something that reads "Kawasaki Genuine Parts" would be made in Japan or USA
Yeah, right? They cheaped out on us