TRAXXAS UDR - OPEN DIFF MOD....SERIOUSLY! Plus GPM Parts!
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Suspension Arms ➜ goo.gl/ew4sXS
Trailing Arms ➜ goo.gl/up3TA5
Front Drive Shaft ➜ goo.gl/nMXPRu
Power HD Servo ➜ goo.gl/sks3ub
Open diff in the UDR is possible with these parts
TRA8577 DIFF GEAR SET
TRA8581 DIFF CARRIER
TRA8584 SPIDER SHAFT/BUSHING SET
Thanks to CrazyMAXX for this mod
forums.traxxas...
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Suspension Arms ➜ goo.gl/ew4sXS
Trailing Arms ➜ goo.gl/up3TA5
Front Drive Shaft ➜ goo.gl/nMXPRu
Power HD Servo ➜ goo.gl/sks3ub
Open diff in the UDR is possible with these parts
TRA8577 DIFF GEAR SET
TRA8581 DIFF CARRIER
TRA8584 SPIDER SHAFT/BUSHING SET
Please subscribe ➜ goo.gl/KyaLHP
You should reach out to Kevin Talbot and tell him about the gonna front drive shaft he keeps breaking his
I would’ve loved to see Traxxas offer the UDR in kit form. I like RTR but something about building these kits appeals to me.
Yeah I enjoy building myself
Those are some solid updates mate! Your rig is going to be super tough
Thanks for actually taking it apart once more for we can understand how to do this mod rrally apreciate that! 👍
What a beast 💯💙 rigid version, hopefully someday soon🎉🎉🫡 helpful video thanks🤙👌
Thanks for watching mate 👍
Great modding man it definitely improved it’s reliability and stance 👍👍👍
Thanks bro
Damn your camera shoots crystal clear👍🏿
Thanks, I use a Panasonic Fz1000
Those GPM aluminum trailing arms are CNC machined.
Nice mod indeed. I'm not a big fan of locked diffs. You need quote loose surface to avoid the mechanical stress. If you still want it fairly locked you can always use 1 million cts diff oil :).
Enjoy!
Thanks man
I added mfr upper and lower aluminum arms. I like them next part is GRC brake discs and calipers.
Yeah they looks nice
No washers at all, the slash diffs dont have them and seems to work fine. I bet you'll have less resistance in the diff. Great vid, always love mods.
Much appreciated bro
Perfect mod if you wanted a "stadium truck" set-up! Good upgrades all around. Cheers.
Best upgrade I've done yet to the UDR was the upper rear toe links in titanium. No longer break the lower trailing arms. I'm giving this diff upgrade a try because it does tend to roll often because of the Solid rear axle. Looking Forward to seeing the difference.
Are they actually titanium or just titanium colour. If actual titanium, where did you find them?
@@tommyb133 they are actual titanium. I found them on eBay.
Nice Video. Greats from Berlin 🚗🚗🚗
Thanks 😊
Pretty cool. I can’t tell ya how many times I’ve rolled mine on cement surfaces. I went with the hot racing trailing arms. Fun truck for sure. I’m thinking of modding my body similar to yours. I just painted a new one & don’t feel like scratching it yet
I might have to try this 💪🏿
Nice parts build
Thanks
I love my conversion.....CrazyXmaxx is the man for the conversion.....rolls over way less with the open diff.
So open diffs stops the roll over?
wait so this comes with a locked diff when its new?
Yes...it does
Just finished the upgrade, but I was able to use my calipers on both sides of the truck. I'm using aluminum brake discs I got off eBay. Maybe they have a deeper inset on the hub than the stock. Just an fyi.
Yeah I think they are different.
Hey Marc's you have a link to those aluminum discs? I want to do this model but I want to keep my calipers and discs...
@@Bawla187 on Ebay search for udr brake discs and a ton will come up to choose from.
@@marcsoscaletrains cool, hopefully they'll have the same deep slots allowing the rotors to fit..
@@Bawla187 Just grind 2-3mm off the axle...no need to spend money or order parts.
How about dressing down the ends of the driveshafts where they go in the diff housing to make up for the extra length to be able to use the disc brakes, and calipers? There should still be plenty enough length on the splines to go in the diff, and shouldn't make them any weaker. That's my take anyways.
I really like RPM products, and I'm not sure if T-Bone racing makes parts for these yet. Those are indestructible, and lifetime guaranteed.
If the front diff is solid in the frame, why would you need a telescoping front driveshaft? Or does the front diff float in the frame?
As for the body roll, the suspension was designed to do that. As for the open diff, it looks like it made quite a bit of difference. You will still get body roll no matter what you do to it.
Another great video, and you helped me decide that I'm going to get one of these.
Much appreciated brother and thanks for your input. I still love the UDR, it is a different driving experience which makes it fun and more challenging at times.
A stiffer saw-bar will solve most of the body roll issue
Just because of this video i subscribed! Good job man.
Much appreciated brother. Glad to hear that you liked it
The GPM front shaft is actually well built, but the pin it comes with is NOT. Replace the GPM stainless pin with Arrma pins PN AR713005 and it's bulletproof.
Nice alternative if you can’t always access the dirt
Yeah
if I ever do this mod will it slide on the dirt? or grip flip
For all understand i should use the automatic subtitle ! ( because i'm a french guy) and it's very interesting, love ur vid bro 😉
Man that thing goes! Definitely a beast blast! Have to look for it! Hope the housings can beat it the same way! Would you test the arrma notorious @ the channel??? Plz Greetings to da family!
Thanks man, housing should hold as it is the same as the front
What did you do to the rear suspension to raise it up?
Just adjust the preload
Very cool, I'll have to keep this in mind for if I ever get around to getting one of those (still want one). Definitely, could use a front aluminum bulkhead for a little more strength and stiffness for those lower a-arms (as well as a bit more front biased ballast). I feel like you should match those lower a-arms to the top ones (just for the bling factor), but understand that it is more functional to keep the plastic.
Yeah needs more bling 😊
I’ve had my udr since it came out. And every since I raced my brother with it against my xmaxx I broke the rear trailer arms. It was a decent race until we both hit each other sideways neck & neck minor collision still rolling. We swung back and immediately noticed it was snapped! I was so pissed it was my first upgrade I made aluminum. After looking at the chassis design as I installed the upgraded trailer arms, all I could think about was man this truck screams aluminum bulkhead + upper/lower A-arms. All though the saying whn you go full aluminum there’s no flex or give, I’d still do it just to see how strong it can be. Ever since tht rear trailer upgrade my udr sat after only being driven abt 6 times. I stockpiled all the aluminum pieces i wanted to use. The main upgrades I wanted even before being designed included the rear axle, bulkhead, & transmission housing. I now have the axle & bulkhead bt no trans yet. Hot racing front driveshaft & AL diff case, Integy Steering bellcrank, & acer racing ceramic bearings to piece things together for smoothness. Looking at the video told me everything I wanted to know visually & verbally about the capabilities & purpose for open diff. Although I like the challenge of driving with lock diff, I’m more open about this mod.
Amazing video Steve, thanks for sharing 👍😜👍
Nice improvement It's still a solid rear axel but now with an open diff instead a locked one. The real axel still moves as one pivoting beam so suspension travel on one side affects the other side; pushing the other wheel down for better traction whilst 4WDriving/crawling but not so good for high traction surfaces getting tonns of roll over as you know. So it will still roll someone and have very similar characteristics so long as it doesn't have independent rear suspension.
I would do the same thing,and the I would add a very heavy fluid so ifs still semi lock with some slip/spin 😎I don't like the idea of the rear different being locked as it limits how you can use the truck.
Thanks man
Great idea for axle swaps for diff types of track surfaces! 👍👍
Thanks man
Nice Vid! 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks
Great video. If you want to save yourself some time when wrenching get yourself a Dewalt gyroscoping drill and proper MIP bits and your set.
Have you tried the kyosho b-xxl wheels on the udr ? You should try it 😊😊 nice vid
Nah I haven't but I will check it out
@@RCTanksTrucks247 czcams.com/video/iNP01R75sVM/video.html
I bought some 1 million weight diff fluid for my UDR center diff, it’s not a locked center but with the 1 million it should be pretty close, I’ll find out once I do it. This is just info I’ve heard from other guys advice. Maybe I’ll have to do what ur doing if I don’t like the 1 million weight. I’m not sure but I’d have to look it up cus someone told me the center diff stock already has 1 million weight. Guess I gotta do some homework on it. Thx for sharing this Steve 👍😎
I’m actually watching this as I’m doing all three diffs on my Kraton
Dude !!! Change your upper link bars also. The ones that come on they're very weak
Aaron j Shirey jr ya I’ve got the gpm upper rear links, I didn’t bend my originals or anything but when I got the aluminum trailing arms I bought those also
Thanks bro. Definitely might get the upper links soon
Nice job but that vehicle needs to many upgrades for it out of the box.
I will wait for VERSION 2 with 8s power and it will come with all the main hop ups that version one needs minus aluminum suspension arms😉
What upgrades does it need?
Nice thick oil. Haha
It shunts to the side like the yeti xl now!.. you should of fryer it on travel too or mud
Will do later on
I'm buying myself one for x-mas I've waited long enough..may do this mod as well
top video mate! very instructive and detailed keep them coming!
#UDRULEZ
Much appreciated bro, glad you liked it
No rear plastic look awful !...I do how ever like how you explain in detail about the mods 👍
I tried the open dif mod with the Vitavon rear axle and I didn’t run into trouble with the calibers. They fit with no problems
Awesome
Great Video.Aftet replacing my center drive shaft i noticed a small chrome pin about a quarter of a inch long did uou run into this pin at any point of thefront diff build?
nice
Cheers
How do you make UDR wheelie! That is insane.
6s power and tarmac 😂
6s no problem wheelies
You should be using the aluminum cup not the plastic you will melt the plastic cup if you're running 6s constantly
How is the drift capabilities with this mode?
I find it much better to be honest
Are the rear wheels a bit wider then the front now after the diff mod? Does the rear disc brake rub?
cool good stuff
Never had luck with gpm
Awesome vid, CHEERS.
I will certainly do this too... its interesting with the track width now being increased (4-6MM?) due to the axle cups and not splined tube, I've just purchased the GPM +3mm brake rotors, to widen the track also, so with this mod, it will increase the track substantially, helping with rollover issues(I hope), How can we widen the front track now to match, hmmmm....
has anyone had any damage transfer from the Alli trailing arms?
How much did all the parts cost versus buying the actual open diff already assembled?
Can't remember, sold it
Would softening the rear suspension make it so it stops doing wheelies
No, not really
How do you get a udr in Australia
It doesn't look like you put in any diff oil in. You'll definitely want to do that.
Certainly did 😉
@@RCTanksTrucks247 awesome
Grind the end of the axles down 3 mm
Good call 🤙🏻
the shims are washers. the gasket is a washer. is your wife a washer too? lol damn aussies, got everything backwards... or is that upside down? ✌🏽🍁
Whoever told you an open diff will be less likely to make you flip did not know what they were talking about you would be less likely to flip over with a posse rear end it would be more likely to slide around instead of grip up and flip
I much prefer it now. Heaps better.
Each to their own bro
@@RCTanksTrucks247 true that to each their own but facts are facts
Hi, how's the diff mod holding up? Any binding or issues in the long run?
Seems to be working well. No issues so far.
@@RCTanksTrucks247 Cool thanks. I'm ordering those parts right now.
That modification is basically if you want to run it on concrete so it doesn't flip over as much. The truck is not designed for concrete. I actually bought the parts for this modification myself and decided not to do it. Using the truck for what is designed for you'll get the best performance out of it I'm not sure if using that modification will give you any better advantage on the sand with this vehicle that's the reason why I'm not going to do it right away. Definitely changed that cup to a aluminum cup if you haven't already. Great video BTW
Thats what i was thinking as i watched this. I hate running offroad trucks on pavement they just arent meant for it. Get an onroad for that cause these trucks are made to be offroad and the udr wont handle like say a traxxas slash cause its a trophy truck made to drive like a scale trophy truck with proper driving offroad.
But why...........its awesome with the locked diff and it behaves like a real trophy truck that way. Its not a road car
you made a comment..Bob's your uncle....do you play dod source?a player on day of defeat source has that name
?
You need to grease that
what 2x3s/6s lipo are u using?
NFGrc batteries. Check out our Facebook page
Nice! How much??
Sorry miss spelling ! Fryer?? Lol meant to be (tryed)
Why did they have the gear reducer in this lol
What do you mean?
Is that basically a xmaxx diff?
Not as big
Where's the diff grease?!
It's there. I use dynamite marine grease
Your blue diff Greece were you get it from? :) Thank when you reply
That's dynamite marine grease. My hobby shop sells it but it is also available online
Thanks from the UK
@@RCTanksTrucks247 I use penrite marine grease
Probably manufactured to fail so you can replace a cheaper part, and easier to get to.
That always happens
First !
NO DIFF SILICONE
Thhn
Should have had a proper diff on it right from the start.
SOLID REAR AXLES
It's good standard, different type of car but I wanted to see how it performs with a diff and solid rear axle
Mmm. It does look like a fun one, if I had the money I'd buy one and nitro convert it. I think an OS 30VG would do the trick.
Also, seems I've spotted a linguistic difference. Up here in the US, the term 'solid axle' would apply to the UDR's rear axle with or without a diff, we say 'locked' or 'open' if the need to specify what sort of gearing is within the axle exists. Interesting little linguistic note there, heh.
you can get a fy03 1/12 for $40..it's basically almost the same design
if you want to ..hack/wack...to LEARN without breaking the bank.
Brushless motors has pros and cons...it's instent wazzoo of power/torque..you have to match the proper KV with the gear ratio.
Power to weight ratio. It also depends on what you want...
I dont crawl much....No thanks on locking the diff.
Bigger toy needs beefier parts...and that's that.
Nitro sucks....i ran those back in the days...too many moving parts
and too much noise.....I can run my electric after midnight.lmao
Im converting a couple of Tmaxx to electric.
chucking the tranny and drive lines.
replace with 1/8 scale buggy center diff and metal dogbones.
WHy would I do that and not just leave it stock as running a nitro?? lol
@OneEyE Monster
* If I wanted an off brand piece of chinese sewer pipe remelt I'da already bought an FY03. Thing's made of plastic so spongy it's more true to say they built it out of rubber instead. You get what you pay for and I don't want a model that's built out of such soft plastic that rough terrain renders steering pointless due to excessive flex. Plus parts are gonna be a bitch to get and it's not gonna be anywhere near as capable of soaking up rough terrain as a 1/6 desert truck is just by virtue of being a fraction the size. A large part of why the UDR is so realistic in how it drives is because it's a heavy ol' pig, which means inertia tends to keep the chassis reasonably still while the suspension is going bonkers to soak up the bumps. You don't get that on a lightweight plastic thing from Banggood, it's gonna bounce all over creation.
* I'm well aware of the pros and cons of brushless power. I have a brushless motor in my fleet, I have a brushed motor in my fleet, I have two smallblock nitros in my fleet, I have a big block nitro in my fleet and I have a 40 size nitro aircraft. Of the lot, the biggest smile factor *by far* comes from when I get the Mad Crusher GP out. Big block brute force on a live axle 1/8 MT is grin city. Thing wheelies on command like it was brushless, hearing it run through the three-speed trans is beautiful, and it just feels right to have a noisy, smokey brute of an ICE powerplant pushing a monster truck over and/or through everything that dares oppose it. That's just *right*, ya know? But my SC10GT is a close second, it's only a smallblock but it's light, nimble, fast, doing all the things the big and bulky Mad Crusher can't do. Like corner at speed without flipping over. On the other side of the coin, my brushless model has a habit of obliterating ring-and-pinion sets, destroys driveshafts, has melted several switches, and for three or four months was nothing but issues. They're sorted now...mostly...except for how I have to recalibrate my ESC every other time I turn the fucking thing on. IHSTHUTISHJSTIDHTR. To top it off I didn't even skimp out on the electronics! Castle 5700kV 1406 motor on a Mamba Micro X Crawler ESC running in SmartSense mode. IT ain't like I'm using any one-hung-low junk electronics to power that thing. And the brushed model? It's an original 80s Grasshopper with an original 80s 540 silvercan in it, pushed along by a 2s 4500mAh lipo running through a HW Quickrun 1060 ESC, all while running on the original 80s tires with the original 80s AM stick radio. You can probably imagine how it drives. It's fun enough but I haven't run it in months.
* Nitro doesn't 'suck'. It just requires a little patience, a little knowledge of how engines work, and not living in a suburban hell where your neighbors bitch about you enjoying your hobbies. Rural life best life, I can run whatever the hell I want to out here and the nearest neighbor's too far away to hear it no matter how loud it is. I still run nitro, still prefer nitro in fact. My next kit will be the Kyosho Scorpion XXL Kit version, and I'm going to build it GP with an OS 30VG in the back. It's gonna be boss and the smile factor'll be off the charts.
* Yeah, why would you waste your time with a T-maxx? I honestly have no clue why you'd go to all that trouble to brushless one of those things. They're fragile as fuck and should be binned in their entirety in favor of a monster truck *that can survive a basic rough landing from a jump more than two truckheights above the ground.* The correct response to acquiring a Tmaxx or EMaxx is to flip it on eBay and buy something better made. Fucking pieces of shit have had the same weak bulkheads for >20 years.
I still want to do a nitro UDR someday. And if I ever find the money, I will do a nitro UDR. Why? *That's what I prefer.* I have a bigger grin on my face when one of my nitros is sitting stationary idling away at my feet than I do either of my electrics doing WFO donuts. The cool factor of having a functional internal combustion engine capable of >1HP that's smaller than a coke can is well worth the price of admission to a gearhead like me who can't afford to hotrod 1:1 stuff.
lol ... if you want it not to flip ... take the tires off the body , lower the shocks and harden the springs ... no body roll and a lower ride height ... lol ... changing the rear diff .. that maybe helped like 4%.
Not really man, tried that too before. This is a easy mod, no big deal just wanted to try it out.
Wrong
You need GPM parts so it doesn’t break every time you run it. 😂 that motor is super cute too, does your sister use that on her barby convertible.
losi fanboy alert.