Brother I tell this. That is one of the cleanest plumbing install I have seen, and trust me, Ive been in this business for 43 years and still love it. I do have concerns on water in the same trench as the waste. But otherwise, great job!...😎👍
Reminds me so much of our kids. They love to be around our business and we have constantly watch out for them. They would also throw stones into pipes...
Great video. Very informative. I'm building a house in 2 months and this was exactly the information I was hoping to get. Please follow up with more videos.
this real helps me out rightnow ,been chippy 30 years wish i taken more notice of plumming ,now im building my own house,big help,price i got for waste pipe and septic tank 16000 k here in oz , for a 48 sq home ,string line is the way to go,shaw theres lazers but you still have mark it
In the one spot he used a double wye underground.....illegal in Canada as you cant get proper fall on both drains cause one would end up having back fall while the other one has fall
I'm really impressed with the way you demonstrate your plumbing layout, I learned a lot from you and I'm going to continue watch you as you post a new video.
Awesome video! I am building a steel barn on my property and running lines for septic and water into it. I have been searching for a video just like this and want to thank you for taking the time to record this to help others out!
Great video, I recently saw a neighbor's home in SW Florida that used a manifold system for water distribution; that should be the standard for all new build.
The problem with the PEX manifold and a line going to each thing is that you end up with a huge waste of Hot water. Say you use an Upstairs sink hot water and then go to pop into the shower. Now you have to run out all the cold water still sitting in the hot line and drain out all the cold water first as using the hot water in the sink didn't do that for you because it has its own line. For a small house, not a huge deal, but this doesn't look small at all. Looks huge and there's a 2nd floor not started yet.
Wow! Great details. You answered quite a few questions I was having regarding plumbing and water in slab. We are facing this challenge shortly and I am a little nervous as I tackle it myself. Thanks.
I wish they ran the water lines like you did in this house I moved into in Jan this year...It loses pressure in pretty much every bathroom fixture the kitchen and even the utility sink in the laundry room and given it's a ranch style house so everything is under tile & a cement slab.
1. You are smart to insulate the PEX since you are Insulating the slab. See #4 if you don't read all. 2. You are smart to put the PEX under the slab to prevent slab stress from potentially harming it. 3. I like the dedicated runs that both enables sleeving later if it was needed and enables isolation cutoff if work or alterations needed in the system such as changing out sink commode parts etc. 4. One thing that is affected by your layout is the fact that since all the hot water also is in dedicated lines there could be a lot of energy waste heating the water waiting for the hot water to get to outlet or more pipe to heat with record system . A couple ways to mitigate this. A. locate water heater in central location according to amount of hot water usage not length of pipe runs. (doesn't matter if same length of pipe to a shop sink and a bathroom if shop hot water not used much and bathroom is used a lot) B. Little dicey but it is your house. Unless the code is advanced in your area orr open to modification it requires 3/4 and 1/2 inch pipe for sinks etc hot water lines. I would consider running 1/4 inch PEX inside the current PEX after inspection to most locations (maybe not bathtubs) . This will save a lot of the hot water energy because much less cold water is in the pipe to run out till hot gets to point of use. You should have plenty of pressure even in shower if low flow heads especially or you could always try it and remove sleeve if it didn't suit you. ( by the way if on well check out a cycle stope valve for continuous pressure if flow above 1 gallon per minute or a variable speed pump much more expensive and repairs inevitably expensive)
I'm wondering why you ran your PEX under the slab rather than in the walls? I mean I assume every room is going to have a wall of some sort. I understand running the water under the slab to get to the kitchen island that makes sense because there's no wall but everything else should have a wall in which you could just run your PEX. Am I missing something?
I'm doing something crazy, building a house in rural South Africa from America (follow my youtube channel for future vids on the process) and was looking for how to do exactly this so I can tell my plumber when they are doing something wrong. I took some notes cause internet is limited over there. This was very helpful thank you!
The one disadvantage of the pex homeruns is a lot of water is wasted (hot lines). What I ended up doing is putting a hotwater recirculating pump that allows hot water to recirculate through the manifold to the most used faucet (master bath). This way hot water is always at the manifold instead of the hot water tank.
What I am wanting to know is how the plumber start and how he takes measurements to dig the trenches and and run all the pipes to the designed locations in a land where nothing is yet built. How everything (bath, kitchen, laundry, etc) matches to the precise location after the house is built?
Just curious, after watching several DIY videos on pouring a concrete slab...my overwhelming question is: Where do people get all this time to do it? PLUS record it! LOL
Paul, these videos are awesome! Fantastic explanation of the sub slab plumbing. I will definitely use these videos when I build my building! Do you dry fit this before cementing the pipes? How deep do these need to be below the concrete?
Yes, I dry fit, mark, and then cement. I put the highest end just below where I want my insulation for the concrete and then it drops from there. So the highest point is about 7" below grade. There is 2" of insulation and then 5" slab.
Just curious why you put the pex below the concrete? is it because the concrete can react with the pex tubing? How deep do you bury the pex in the rock?
For 4” drain lines you need 1/4” /ft slope, right? Looks like your main run spans quite the distance. Did you have a couple feet of total drop by the time you got to the septic tank?
Ok I might be asking a dumb question but what happens if there is an issue later on with the plumbing. Since it's buried in concrete won't that make it tough to fix? I feel like in a conventional home it's just buried behind drywall. Thanks for posting these videos I'm addicted.
to others below I have dealt with this problem several times with the old Quest pipe (PB) that was discontinued I believe in late 80 s This pipe was found to crack when in the slab causing a leak in the slab. Because PEX and Quest are bendable unlike PVC you can sleeve it that is to run a smaller diameter pipe inside it from where it comes above the slab on both sides and rssentially run a new pipe in the slab without disturbing it. The only other choice us to remove the concrete around the problem area. Locating the problem is another topic. With PVC it would be very difficult to get sleeved pipe to cross the 90 degree turns etc but if it was a straight section just a 90 where it exits slab you ,might be able to. I assume this is why he chose to run the PEX underneath the slab so a crack or shift in the slab expansion or earthquake etc will not damage the pex. It is also a very good choice to insulate it in cold climate since he stated he was placing 2 inches of foam insulation under the slab therefore the PEX will be thermally isolated to an extent. Hope this helps answer your questions.
Very helpful & inspiring info. Do the 1/2” PEX water supply lines need to be pressurized during the pour like they would for radiant floor heat or is that unnecessary since it’s going to be buried under backfill & covered with 2” blue board?
Fantastic video! Your work is meticulous. I didn’t seen any primer on the pipe but, seeing how you work, you probably masked off the pipe before priming and then pulled the masking off…LOL. Thanks for sharing!
Just had to deal with leaks under the slab. If I build a new house I would never do under the slab. Sheet rock is easier to fix than breaking concrete etc.
@@MrPostFrame Had a hot water leak under the slab. The copper had a pinhole in it. We did get lucky this time because the heater was right next to kitchen, so they did a pex re-route through the cabinets in to the manifold which was located behind kitchen sink.
EATSLEEPJD that stinks. I did the best I could to protect all my pex. We will see with time I guess. I thought about what I would do if that happens 🤞so I have a plan but hoping not to ever need an alternative.
Awesome, I leant a lot, thank you. Is your water manifold control thing inside due to your location climate? I thought having it outside would be better if you spring a leak?
Hey there! Awesome video, Im currently building out my pole barn and doing it all myself. Im a framer mostly so I haven't delved into much plumbing. Did you use just 3" white abs and what kind of primer and glue did you end up using? Do you by any chance have a diagram of fittings that you used and what appliances they went to? Appreciate the effort of making these videos, super helpful!
4” schedule 40 pvc for main trunk. 2” schedule 40 pvc where I broke off to sink and tub drains. 4” schedule 40 to toilets. 2” schedule 40 for all my venting. I use Oatey pvc primer and glue. You can find it at most hardware or lumber yards. I do not have a diagram. I like to lay everything out on the ground where it’s going to go before getting started.
You use a vent for every sink, toilet, etc? Can't you use only one vent upstream of the line that takes care of everything downstream of it? Also why a vent on your island kitchen sink if it cannot go up ? thank you!
@@MrPostFrame True, every "trap" must be protected by a vent. But, with a bathroom group (ie a WC, lavatory and bathtub that all drain into a common "branch", (see video at 10:32), the fixture drain from the lavatory basin may double as the vent for both the WC and bathtub. It's called "wet-venting". The vent you've installed next to the WC stub doesn't hurt, but is completely unnecessary. And, now you gotta run it up the wall, through framing and the roof, to outside air. Needless work and considerable cost, for no reason.
It is worth mentioning that shower/tub drain lines should always run downstream of a toilet, so that a clogged toilet will not back-up into shower
Good point. Imagining that is bad enough lol
I am about to do my plumbing before a 60' x 40' slab pour. This video has so much good information, thank you!
Brother I tell this. That is one of the cleanest plumbing install I have seen, and trust me, Ive been in this business for 43 years and still love it. I do have concerns on water in the same trench as the waste. But otherwise, great job!...😎👍
Thank you. I appreciate it.
Guess you guys don't have plumbing codes down there
Best plumbing layout I've seen! This makes it easily to follow and understand. Thanks for taking the time to share it with us.
This video was so dam helpful for understanding some of the infrastructure of the plumbing and what not. Thank you!
You are very detailed, I love such accuracy, your films are watched with great pleasure :)
Greetings from Poland
Reminds me so much of our kids. They love to be around our business and we have constantly watch out for them. They would also throw stones into pipes...
Haha! Totally. We have to remind them EVERY time.
Great video. Very informative. I'm building a house in 2 months and this was exactly the information I was hoping to get. Please follow up with more videos.
this real helps me out rightnow ,been chippy 30 years wish i taken more notice of plumming ,now im building my own house,big help,price i got for waste pipe and septic tank 16000 k here in oz , for a 48 sq home ,string line is the way to go,shaw theres lazers but you still have mark it
Great job and much patience. Your camera work is just outstanding, and your explaining is just as important
Thank you for the clear and concise description of the process. Really appreciate you taking the time to share.
i know this is an older video, but I am really enjoying your walk-through. Beautifully laid out
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
man what a clean job looks slick
Excellent job! Intelligent contractor. Bravo!
Thank you very much!
In the one spot he used a double wye underground.....illegal in Canada as you cant get proper fall on both drains cause one would end up having back fall while the other one has fall
So satisfying to watch. A lot of good tips and ideas. Very well performed. Thx for sharing.
I’ve been looking all this content you provide I’m getting ready to do my own pole barn house build
Thanks for making it simple and easy to understand
I'm really impressed with the way you demonstrate your
I'm really impressed with the way you demonstrate your plumbing layout, I learned a lot from you and I'm going to continue watch you as you post a new video.
Thank you buddy, starting a project, best under slab plumbing video on CZcams couldn't do it with this.
I absolutely love this channel. I am learning so much
Thanks for following along!
Awesome video! I am building a steel barn on my property and running lines for septic and water into it. I have been searching for a video just like this and want to thank you for taking the time to record this to help others out!
He needs a plumber, why do you people mess with another person profession.
He knows nothing about plumbing layout.
All of this shit is to make money off this Video,this has NOTHING TO DO WITH PLUMBING.
Great video, I recently saw a neighbor's home in SW Florida that used a manifold system for water distribution; that should be the standard for all new build.
Thanks!
Outstanding organization of your layout. Thanks for the video!
The problem with the PEX manifold and a line going to each thing is that you end up with a huge waste of Hot water. Say you use an Upstairs sink hot water and then go to pop into the shower. Now you have to run out all the cold water still sitting in the hot line and drain out all the cold water first as using the hot water in the sink didn't do that for you because it has its own line. For a small house, not a huge deal, but this doesn't look small at all. Looks huge and there's a 2nd floor not started yet.
Thanks for the input!
Fantastic video step by step, easy to understand, and congrats for the neat work
thanks for being thorough
You're welcome!
Nice work! perfect layout. Any video on the electrical being done in that slab?
Thanks!
Very nice, a lot of plumbers dont understand the lay down system... Its better than stacking for depth and drain cable(if needed) purposes
Thanks!
Wow! Great details. You answered quite a few questions I was having regarding plumbing and water in slab. We are facing this challenge shortly and I am a little nervous as I tackle it myself. Thanks.
Building The Haven thanks. If you have any questions when you get started feel free to give me a shout and I’ll try to help.
This is the video I've been looking for. Thank you good sir.
Awesome, we have a couple more plumbing and slab prep videos on our channel if interested.
czcams.com/play/PL3QM32YjSVn3waOM9xwmHXwZKgxwUgKLk.html
Good work on laying pipes in Plumbing well done look.
This guy can't be a plumber he's talking about his fittings going the right way. Right there that tells me he's a handyman
Thats awesome! And I love the way you made it so understanding.
Thanks for watching!
I wish they ran the water lines like you did in this house I moved into in Jan this year...It loses pressure in pretty much every bathroom fixture the kitchen and even the utility sink in the laundry room and given it's a ranch style house so everything is under tile & a cement slab.
1. You are smart to insulate the PEX since you are Insulating the slab. See #4 if you don't read all.
2. You are smart to put the PEX under the slab to prevent slab stress from potentially harming it.
3. I like the dedicated runs that both enables sleeving later if it was needed and enables isolation cutoff if work or alterations needed in the system such as changing out sink commode parts etc.
4. One thing that is affected by your layout is the fact that since all the hot water also is in dedicated lines there could be a lot of energy waste heating the water waiting for the hot water to get to outlet or more pipe to heat with record system .
A couple ways to mitigate this.
A. locate water heater in central location according to amount of hot water usage not length of pipe runs. (doesn't matter if same length of pipe to a shop sink and a bathroom if shop hot water not used much and bathroom is used a lot)
B. Little dicey but it is your house. Unless the code is advanced in your area orr open to modification it requires 3/4 and 1/2 inch pipe for sinks etc hot water lines. I would consider running 1/4 inch PEX inside the current PEX after inspection to most locations (maybe not bathtubs) . This will save a lot of the hot water energy because much less cold water is in the pipe to run out till hot gets to point of use. You should have plenty of pressure even in shower if low flow heads especially or you could always try it and remove sleeve if it didn't suit you.
( by the way if on well check out a cycle stope valve for continuous pressure if flow above 1 gallon per minute or a variable speed pump much more expensive and repairs inevitably expensive)
Thanks for all your input. I really appreciate it.
I'm wondering why you ran your PEX under the slab rather than in the walls? I mean I assume every room is going to have a wall of some sort. I understand running the water under the slab to get to the kitchen island that makes sense because there's no wall but everything else should have a wall in which you could just run your PEX. Am I missing something?
I'm doing something crazy, building a house in rural South Africa from America (follow my youtube channel for future vids on the process) and was looking for how to do exactly this so I can tell my plumber when they are doing something wrong. I took some notes cause internet is limited over there. This was very helpful thank you!
The one disadvantage of the pex homeruns is a lot of water is wasted (hot lines). What I ended up doing is putting a hotwater recirculating pump that allows hot water to recirculate through the manifold to the most used faucet (master bath). This way hot water is always at the manifold instead of the hot water tank.
Very nicely done.
Basements and crawl spaces= easier repairs in future. Slabs are future repair nightmares.
bro final lay_out plumbing for PVC pipe there are all setting.GOD BLESS YOU and your FAMILY
Thanks!
VERY NICE JOB.
Thank you very much!
Great job!
Thanks!
Well done sir!
Thank you!
Excellent
Thank you!
Nice work
Thanks!
What's an efficient way to dig the space for the PVC pipe and keep the 1/4 per foot pitch? What's an efficient way to measure this afterwards?
Have some sand or pea rock to make fine adjustments for filling back in where you dug too much.
ABSOLUTELY SLICK WAY TO INSULATE YOUR PEX PIPE AND BRING IT UP WITH THOSE 90’S. Very Organized and SLICK‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
Glad you enjoyed it
Interesting, where we are the septic has to be completely separate to the grey water within the building
It is interesting seeing how different places require different things. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for sharing, neat work man!
Great video, thanks
You like to build things.
This is what God made men to do.
Hello sir good job anf hatd work so very nice greatfull.
What I am wanting to know is how the plumber start and how he takes measurements to dig the trenches and and run all the pipes to the designed locations in a land where nothing is yet built.
How everything (bath, kitchen, laundry, etc) matches to the precise location after the house is built?
It's important to follow the blueprints. All those measurements are provided.
Very nice clean job though
Thanks!
Just curious, after watching several DIY videos on pouring a concrete slab...my overwhelming question is: Where do people get all this time to do it? PLUS record it! LOL
HAHA! It's definitely a challenge to film every step.
Awesome video!
I would like after the houses build and used come back in about 50 years and tell me what HASN'T WORKED OUT what WOULD YOU HAVE DONE DIFFERENTLY.....
We'll be old but if CZcams is still around we will do a video about it lol
A lot heavy labor work involved obviously isn't a easy task to complete great work BTW 👍
Very nice neat work. And informational. You the man.👍
Great video. Very neat. What grade of rock did you use?
We used 3/4"
Thx buddy
Thanks for watching!
Awesome
what's the story with the vent in the island?
Paul, these videos are awesome! Fantastic explanation of the sub slab plumbing. I will definitely use these videos when I build my building! Do you dry fit this before cementing the pipes? How deep do these need to be below the concrete?
Yes, I dry fit, mark, and then cement. I put the highest end just below where I want my insulation for the concrete and then it drops from there. So the highest point is about 7" below grade. There is 2" of insulation and then 5" slab.
Just to be clear, you did not have a septic installed prior to laying plumbing and concrete? Thanks
Just curious why you put the pex below the concrete? is it because the concrete can react with the pex tubing? How deep do you bury the pex in the rock?
For 4” drain lines you need 1/4” /ft slope, right? Looks like your main run spans quite the distance. Did you have a couple feet of total drop by the time you got to the septic tank?
I was wondering the same thing.
I figured 80 ft would be 20 inches.
I believe for 4 inch pipe, you can go 1/8 per ft, but not much room for error there.
I enjoyed your video, very informative! I was curious how you brought the main water supply in. Was this under your slab as well?
Ok I might be asking a dumb question but what happens if there is an issue later on with the plumbing. Since it's buried in concrete won't that make it tough to fix? I feel like in a conventional home it's just buried behind drywall. Thanks for posting these videos I'm addicted.
conventional / older homes have it in the concrete slab and then in the walls unless all the plumbing in the Attic
to others below I have dealt with this problem several times with the old Quest pipe (PB) that was discontinued I believe in late 80 s This pipe was found to crack when in the slab causing a leak in the slab. Because PEX and Quest are bendable unlike PVC you can sleeve it that is to run a smaller diameter pipe inside it from where it comes above the slab on both sides and rssentially run a new pipe in the slab without disturbing it. The only other choice us to remove the concrete around the problem area. Locating the problem is another topic. With PVC it would be very difficult to get sleeved pipe to cross the 90 degree turns etc but if it was a straight section just a 90 where it exits slab you ,might be able to.
I assume this is why he chose to run the PEX underneath the slab so a crack or shift in the slab expansion or earthquake etc will not damage the pex. It is also a very good choice to insulate it in cold climate since he stated he was placing 2 inches of foam insulation under the slab therefore the PEX will be thermally isolated to an extent. Hope this helps answer your questions.
Very helpful & inspiring info. Do the 1/2” PEX water supply lines need to be pressurized during the pour like they would for radiant floor heat or is that unnecessary since it’s going to be buried under backfill & covered with 2” blue board?
Rough plumbing get idea where Drains and the Water lines go’
So you just insulated the PEX lines under the slab? No pex line conduit? Just electrical conduit?
Don’t need 1/4” slope on 3”. Code is 1/8” makes a huge difference on long runs 1/4 drops to much
Another great video!
Don't know why you would use regulars on the combos also did you ever put extra fall on the pipe sop that shit would fly ?
Mani block water system
Question, the island sink, you said the vent will be done underneath? I assume automatic air vents are approved in your area?
Fantastic video! Your work is meticulous. I didn’t seen any primer on the pipe but, seeing how you work, you probably masked off the pipe before priming and then pulled the masking off…LOL. Thanks for sharing!
Just had to deal with leaks under the slab. If I build a new house I would never do under the slab. Sheet rock is easier to fix than breaking concrete etc.
That stinks. What happened?
@@MrPostFrame Had a hot water leak under the slab. The copper had a pinhole in it. We did get lucky this time because the heater was right next to kitchen, so they did a pex re-route through the cabinets in to the manifold which was located behind kitchen sink.
EATSLEEPJD that stinks. I did the best I could to protect all my pex. We will see with time I guess. I thought about what I would do if that happens 🤞so I have a plan but hoping not to ever need an alternative.
Marshall Remodel well you don’t have copper so you should be fine I guess haha :).
There is different grades of copper for different areas ie direct bury
And also pays to cap all off and put air in pump up and wAit 24 hors
How does the closet flange sit on a finished concrete floor? Did you pour around it so its flush with the finished concrete?
Should use all Long sweeps Not all the y with the 45s
Flat Venting and a Double Wye on its back should have been a figure 5 other than that trenches look good and the layout is great
Not just that it plugs up easier, you can't run a drain snake thru short radius elbows.
Awesome, I leant a lot, thank you. Is your water manifold control thing inside due to your location climate? I thought having it outside would be better if you spring a leak?
Don't you need a plumbing inspection where you are before you cover the pipes up??
Hey there! Awesome video, Im currently building out my pole barn and doing it all myself. Im a framer mostly so I haven't delved into much plumbing. Did you use just 3" white abs and what kind of primer and glue did you end up using? Do you by any chance have a diagram of fittings that you used and what appliances they went to? Appreciate the effort of making these videos, super helpful!
4” schedule 40 pvc for main trunk. 2” schedule 40 pvc where I broke off to sink and tub drains. 4” schedule 40 to toilets. 2” schedule 40 for all my venting. I use Oatey pvc primer and glue. You can find it at most hardware or lumber yards.
I do not have a diagram. I like to lay everything out on the ground where it’s going to go before getting started.
@@MrPostFrame awesome thanks so much bud! looking forward to your progress!
Have you had any clogs since the instal
Nope. Working good so far.
@@MrPostFrame thanks very much for the info
I would have tested the system with 10' of head pressure, fixing a bad joint would be easier before the concrete is poured.
Can someone explain to me why you would lay down your rock before you lay down your plumbing??
How do you make sure the pipe doesn't flex or lose slope when the weight of the slab compresses it all down? Any way to fix the pipe in place? Rebar?
Do you need the inspector to approve the work before you cover it?
That varies on your location. Some places you do and some you don't.
Looks great. Super OCD
Thanks! Gotta make sure stuff like this is perfect. No going back once the concrete is in!
No expansion joints? Or quarter minus (small rocks) back fill under the pipe.....? Hmmmmmm not good
You use a vent for every sink, toilet, etc? Can't you use only one vent upstream of the line that takes care of everything downstream of it? Also why a vent on your island kitchen sink if it cannot go up ? thank you!
Per code every drain has to have a vent. For the island there is a couple different special ways that you can vent it.
@@MrPostFrame True, every "trap" must be protected by a vent. But, with a bathroom group (ie a WC, lavatory and bathtub that all drain into a common "branch", (see video at 10:32), the fixture drain from the lavatory basin may double as the vent for both the WC and bathtub. It's called "wet-venting". The vent you've installed next to the WC stub doesn't hurt, but is completely unnecessary. And, now you gotta run it up the wall, through framing and the roof, to outside air. Needless work and considerable cost, for no reason.
What size pex did you use ?
Is that pex A and is it not recommended to do type b under slab?
Can I ask what state this work was done in? I'm just curious as their was no testing or inspection before you covered everything up...
Just curious!!
6:08
Any inspection issues?