The Lansky Controlled-Angle Sharpening System
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- čas přidán 1. 11. 2017
- This video from Lansky Sharpeners will show you how to use the Lansky Controlled-Angle Sharpening System, along with the differences you'll find in each of the kits. Tips on how to use the clamp, when to use the honing oil, and more. www.lansky.com
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Hey! I just bought one. Are you supposed to wet them before sharpening like a wet stone? I didn’t see you do it in the video and I want to make sure I use it properly. Thanks!
Hi there! Thanks so much for reaching out! In short, whether or not you wet the stones depends on which type of stone you use. For Alumina Oxide and Silicon Carbide sharpeners, we recommend using them dry, and cleaning them when enough metal debris has accumulated to interfere with the sharpening process. For the natural Arkansas sharpeners, we recommend using them with honing oil at all times to prevent glazing and/or fracturing. Lastly, for diamond hones, do not use the oil at all. For more detailed information or if you have any other questions for us, please contact us at customerservice@lansky.com ! We hope this helps!
I received my Dads diamond system 17 years ago after he passed, what a great sharpening system. Still works great.
Same here. Still using my late dad's kit.
@@pierredelange4077 me, too.
Do you recommend the deluxe or the diamond ?
@@alextheamethyst5262 I have only used the diamond and it works great.
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm czcams.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
It is possible to re-flaten the stones.
This is such a great stone sharpening system. I highly recommend this to anyone who doesn’t have experience with hand sharpening.
Bought one about 20 yrs ago to sharpen other people's knives. I have always free hand sharpened but always had people asking me to sharpen theirs aswell so I bought it to make sure I got perfect angles and save time. I used it to sharpen coworkers knives for free, at least 15 people. One day at quiting time I set it on top of my locker for no more than 10 mins and when I came back it had been stolen. The kit also had several stones (black and translucent) and rods I had acquired over the yrs that were worth a good amount of $. I never bought another rod sharpener despite how good that lansky was. I did replace my stones and rods with others but the ones in the kit that were given to me by my father inlaw before he passed can never be replaced or given to my own sons. I've thought about buying another one lately but now days I'd have to go with the diamond kit because of the super/specialty steels.
Just got the basic / 3-stone set. So much easier than my basic stone. Sharpened up every old knife I have in the house to slicey slicey sharp. Ordering extra fine and strop soon for scary sharpness because, I mean, why not. Thanks for the video!
Best system I've ever tried! I recommend both the regular kit and the diamond de luxe kit.
There are so many idiotic instructional yt videos on how to sharpen with Lansky.
This is the only correct one. Bravo
Awesome product, I got mine at Blade Show this year, I was worried I wouldnt be able to do a good job on my knives if I purchased one. But the young gentlemen there for Lansky was terriffic. Very nice and took extra time demonstrating until I was confident I could do it. He showed me how to use it correctly, and i am very pleased with it and how my knives come out when I use my Deluxe System at home. The Ceramic Pocket Sharpener he sold me on is also a terriffic sharpener!!! Thanks again Lansky guy!!!
Hi , i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
Great vid! been watching some vids here on youtube, since the instructions that came with the standard kit were pretty vague, and they all say different things about where/how to clamp yuor knife and so on. Now i finally got it right and will sharpen all my knifes with this kit!
I've had my Lansky for almost 30 years and love it! I can't think of a better system to keep all of your knives sharp. I've recently purchased a 2000 grit Saphire stone and a strop. You can literally shave will my pocket knife!
I have the lansky leather stropping hone, well in fact two with different compounds. Most of the times I don't even have to resharp my blades, just stropping them.
Same stones?
Good sharpening system but I purchased the 5-stone kit a while back and immediately regretted I didn't get the diamond kit. I spend 10 mins per kitchen knife on the course and medium stones and still cannot get a burr. Spend the extra money on the diamond kit unless you don't value your time. The stones tend to load up and get slick as well (take a look at her blue stone at the end of the video). I found myself cleaning them after every knife, which also adds to the time.
This was very useful to learn what is in each kit thank you.
Love this system, had mine since the 1980's
Same here, the only thing new in my original kit is a diamond hone and I had to toss the small bottle of honing oil years ago as age or oil or combination caused it to shatter.
My dad has one of these with the og stones that he bought in ...the early 90s..i was young when he got it .he swears by it...i just bought one for myself,its now what ill swear by
Great video. Just what I needed. Thank you
Glad I watched video. Instructions that came with kit was throwing me off, because it was stating about notch in clamp
I just bought my first lansky deluxe…. Amazing …. Razor sharp first time
One trick I found is using wet dry sandpaper taped to fine stone. Found grits from 1000 to 7000 grit. Puts a mirror finish on edge plus takes sharp to a new level.
good idea! I cant find anything better than 600 grit around here for sharpening stones.
Same as l sharpen my ski edges. 400 paper and on
@@TheRockerxx69 Jesus where the devil do you ski lol
Pavement
I would probably try switching the hand when changing sides, to slide towards the tip on both. That should make the point sharper as there is a danger of rounding it when going towards the grip on on side, starting to slide setting up the stone against the tip.
hey lansky. THANK YOU FROM A FAN :)
Instead of tape in the jaws of the clamp, try moleskin, found in the first aid section (foot care) of grocery/drug/large box stores, or thin supple leather like natural chamois. These two materials not only help prevent scratches, they will aid in keeping the knife from moving in the clamp especially when the spine or sides of the knife are shaped in unusual ways. Try the moleskin or leather in 1"x 1" squares. Of course your needs may require differing sizes. Moleskin usually has an adhesive backing so you can affix it to the inside of the jaws.
thank you for the advice :)
Try human skin......
Call me hannibal.....😝
Hi , i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
@@GABI59042that is true. This is something I’ve experienced personally. What I’ve done is move the clamp and do the knife in sections trying to match everything as close as possible. Not perfect, but not bad.
You just gave me an idea. Band aids
thanks for the demo. Should I be using the oil that came with my kit for this?
It's really a matter of preference. You can use the oil on the hone to sharpen with, or use it only after sharpening to remove any metal shavings that collected in the hone during the sharpening process. Just make sure not to use any oil at all if you have a diamond system.
Ok, not with the diamond hones (I have those) but do you have to use some oil with the yellow ceramic 1000 grit or the blue sapphire 2.000 grit? Thank you and greetings from Spain.
does the deluxe set come with diamond stones? just to know if I should use the oil or not. THX
I have this kit and I love it.
is the clamp as bad as people say?
@@slickman5969 nah
I was hoping for a demonstration of the oil. How do you apply it? how much and how often? But that was the one think you did not show.
Question When sharpening your blade with this system in regards to the 17, 20, 25 and 30 degree offset slots, do you try and keep the rod at the top of the slot or at the bottom of the slot while using your stones.
You can keep the rod in place best by holding it down with a finger at the back of the clamp, which would hold the rod against the bottom of the slot. Hope that helps!
I have the Controlled-Angle Sharpening System Delux but, I have no clear indication of which stones I have (other then the ultra-fine ceramic)
Oh, I happened to notice while looking through lansky reviews the clamps used to pinch the knife seem to be getting shaved and was wondering what it was made out of?
Cool and informative vid :) Ceramic Deluxe is absolutely awesome. My favorite sharpening system. Really handy for re- profiling blades. Shaving sharp result every time! And the cool thing is there is a whole bunch of hones and parts one can buy separately to compliment the system. I really like that. Covers all kinds of blades. For my EDC bag and my outdoor kit I have a Quadsharp ( couple of them) and Mini Dog Bone. Great products! Big thumbs up!
Thanks Jani. Stay sharp! :)
Hi , i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
Great system. Works very well. The instructions say to have about 5/8" of the blade extending. On some longer knives that is not possible, i.e. Chef's knives. Any suggestions are appreciated.
We're so glad our system is working well for you! If your blade is greater than 7" in length, pick the end of the blade where you would like to start sharpening and place the clamp two finger widths away from that end of the blade (so for example if you choose the tip, place the clamp two finger widths away from the tip). Once the clamp is secured, your target sharpening zone is between two finger widths on either side of the clamp. After sharpening this area repeat the process by moving the clamp two fingers away from the edge of the newly sharpened area. For knives over 7 inches we recommend sharpening them in sections of 3-4". You can also use a small piece of tape to mark the edges of the section you're sharpening to minimize overlap. If you need additional assistance or have other questions please reach out to us at customerservice@lansky.com.!
@@LanskySharpeners Thanks! Appreciate the response.
@@andycarrigan1868 You're welcome!
Omg I got one of these for Christmas yesterday and I was sharpening away from the edge. No wonder it wasn’t working.
When sharpening at 17 deg, I'm finding the rod rubs on the red knob.. am I doing something wrong?
Just got the system recently and got the deluxe 5 stone system. Also got the leather strop. Am I to use compound on the strop ?
I was wondering the same thing, since I'll be getting the strop as well. Every video I've seen on stropping uses compound, so I'm going to say might as well - can't hurt, esp since you have the controlled angle and no danger of accidentally dulling the blade. I'm going to.
Another tip is to use a clothes pin/bag clip or something similar on the rod to prevent pulling the rod too far back. This helps improve speed quite a bit.
Great suggestion, I've just been dealing with the over-pull issue. I'm defiantly going to implement this.
Thank you
If you do end up with not perfectly flat stones at some point can you use the same method to level them that you would with a regular whetstone?
I know this is an older video. I highly recommend the ceramic handheld, C-Sharp, for quickly putting the edge back on kitchen knives. The C-Sharp isn't as precise as a full honing, but it's convenient and keeps you cutting. If you're using your knives very seriously, break out the Precision Angle system. Two things: The rod isn't tight in the angle slot in the handle, you need to use your finger to keep it snug. Be sure to check the screw holding the rod in the stone, they will work loose (don't gorilla tighten them).
Hi, any tips for mounting a knife like a Spyderco pm2? It’s a flat grind from the spine down to the edge, so there is no consistently parallel surface on which to clamp. One is basically clamping onto a V shape. Thanks.
Hi! Thanks for reaching out! Please contact us via email at customerservice@lansky.com and we would love to provide more detailed assistance and feedback.
Is there an ultimate kit with everything?
I have a block of slate much in the dimensions of a regular oil stone. With water as a lubricant it polishes to razor finish.
New to sharpening (at least serious sharpening) and have a Lansky system with standard hones. I have some knives that I need to reprofile and am wondering if I can do that with a extra course or corse diamond hone and the finish up with the standard hones. Thanks for any advice!
The type of stone doesn't matter. You can mix and match materials. What matters is the angle and the stones getting finer as you go. Once you start using a stone, the material of the stone you used before doesn't matter. For example, in this video she used the aluma stones and then finished with ceramic.
@@dkingpin74 thank you for the info!
I do enjoy this system, but my fine stone dipped out fast and my extra coarse is starting to dip out. Having said that, I did reprofile and sharpen all my knives in my collection to great results, so I guess it did the job... I'm thinking of buying the diamond deluxe kit next with the strop hone.
Too much downward pressure. Let the stone glide across the blade and it will do the work.
Do it, the diamond system is superb. Had mine for over 10 years and it works like it's new.
I have a knife with a spear point blade where both sides (cutting and non cutting) of the blade are beveled and the thickest part of the blade is a small ridge down the center. How can I clamp the blade to get the correct angles or will this not work for those type blades (i.e. spear point, dagger, etc.)?
Hi Phil, for a blade like that we would recommend our Master's Edge or Turn box sharpeners.
A sharp lady!!
thank you
I got one of the deluxe systems. Where I ran into an issue was when I got down to the fine stone, the blue one and my knife literally shaved off the surface of the stone. And that was with light pressure. Any ideas? What am I doing wrong?
Sounds like the fine stones rod was bent or not set properly
I started a new edge on the 20 degree I’m having trouble getting that fine sharp edge! I’m using a sapphire stone for final finish but can’t get that edge? Any suggestions? Thanks
Hi there! Send us an email at customerservice@lansky.com and we'll be happy to help you with this!
Will the Landsky sharpen a 6 to 8 inch Bowie style knives? It seems like most of the knives in the demonstrations are smaller pocket knives. Looking forward to learning more. Thank you for the video and the demonstration.
Hi Lonnie. We do have special instructions for sharpening blades that are longer than 7 inches. You can check them out at this link, then click the instructions tab. Hope that helps! lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/
Thank you very much. Will be getting a Landsky soon.
@@LanskySharpeners why did you remove my comments? Afraid people will know the truth that your product sucks now and you told me to use it dry so I can damage my knives? I'm putting my own review out and people will see the truth.
I guess my question is where do I clamp to the blade? Where you decide to clamp determines the angle.
How are these for use on kitchen knives?
I tried doing three S&W Extreme Ops cheap knives today and yes I got them sharp up I never could get them razor sharp. I then tried sharpening one on my electric sharpener and without any effort I was able to do the paper test and it worked like a charm. What degree is recommenced for folding pocket knives?
Depends on the manufacturer. Some like 20°, others 25°.
Mark the edge with a sharpie and while using the fine grit stone, start from the shallowest edge working up in angle until a single pass can cleanly remove the mark. This will give you the exact angle you need to use to sharpen it to factory angle and sharpness.
Hope this helps.
@@taimaishu-nao1922 This blew my mind. I NEVER would have thought of this. Thanks
What do you do about the issue of clamping a full-flat ground blade?
Eg: Spyderco Paramilitary 2. 🤷🏼♂️
Yea my shrade sharp finger won’t clamp on !!!
I've seen videos where people sharpen using an up and down stroke with the hone on the blade, moving from one side to the other. Is this not recommended? Thank you.
Hello. Great question. We don't recommend moving the hone up and down in a sawing type of motion. For best results, your strokes should move diagonally forward (towards the guide hole in the clamp) and along a small section of the blade, using the full length of the hone with each stroke.
I’ve seen other reviews that say the Lansky design does not do well on knifes like Swiss Army that have a straight grind. They claim the clamp can only hold a flat area near the spine. Can you comment on that. Most of my pocket knives have that type of beveled edge.
Hi Dean - I checked with customer service and they would need a few more details from you to answer your question correctly. If you'd like to drop them a note at customerservice@lansky.com, they'd be happy to help you out. Thanks.
Can this be used on a meat slicer blade?
I was going to purchase the Diamond system off Amazon however there are many reviews complaining about the clamp not holding the knives and damaging the knives. Have there been any changes made to the clamp?
I've had the diamond system since the mid 90s. I have sharpened my USMC KABAR, several different brand pocket knives, and even kitchen knives. I have never damaged a single blade. You just need to be deliberate and follow her instructions on how to lock the blade down. As she stated I use a new piece of electrical tape on each side of the clamp for every blade I sharpen. DO NOT REUSE TAPE FROM ONE BLADE TO ANOTHER as blades have different shapes and you could wear out the protection by tearing the used tape. I hope this helps.
@@dkingpin74 thank you for taking the time to respond. In January 2022 I purchased the Deluxe 5 stone system. Very disappointed with the results. Tried a variety of kitchen knives from small 3” blades to 6-7” blades. I’ve done as few as 10 swipes with each stone, from coarse to the ultra fine and the result was dull. Then I tried 30 swipes with each stone-same poor result. Let my stepson borrow it for a few weeks-he didn’t have any better luck. In only one instance did the knife feel sharper than where it started. I even bought screws to replace the big red knob that prevented me from sharpening at the sharpest angle. Also bought the table clamp and the pedestal. Now it sits gathering dust. I’d spent an hour and a half on just one blade-very disappointed 😢
Do you use the oil with the hones that come with the deluxe version?
Absolutely! They are meant to be used together.
Is the fine stone supposed to soak the oil up? You didn't put oil on it but no where in the instructions does it say.
What is your best sixteen
When are you supposed to apply the oil to the stones? Before sharpening, or afterwards to clean them?
Scrolled down and found the answer
If I have the deluxe kit is it worth buying the diamond hones?
Many people do like to add diamond hones to increase the speed of sharpening.
Do you guys oil the stone before sharpening or just for cleaning?
Just for cleaning once the stones get loaded with metal.
Nice ink!
I’ve got the professional kit. Can you use this with karambit’s?
We actually have a set of hones specifically designed for karambits and other curved blades that will work with your current system. You can check it out here: lansky.com/index.php/products/curved-blade-hone-pack/
Lansky Sharp would this kit that is sold at SouthernGrind.com, be a good choice to sharpen mostly folding pocket knives that are middle to Higher class. Like a Chaves Rendicion 228, or a Zero Tolerance folder? Or would I need to get some extra parts?
Should I use the oil on the ultra fine hone?
Always use oil. The oil prevents the metal to get stuck at the stone. After honing. Wipe off oil.
Will this system work with 9inch filleting knives?
Hi Caleb, yes filet knives can be sharpened with this system. It has four different angles so you can use it on a variety of knives.
Would these work on a wood chipper? Asking for a friend in North Dakota.
Should we soak the stones in water? I got the deluxe, doesnt say arkansas stone so not sure to use oil
If you have the Deluxe 5-stone system, it does not require oil while you're sharpening. Metal filings from the sharpening process will start to get into the hone though, and that's when you'll use the oil to clean it up. If you have a Deluxe DIAMOND system, do not use honing oil as it will clog the pores. Full instructions are available at lansky.com (click the product you have). Your kit should also come with complete instructions. Hope that helps!
@@LanskySharpeners thx
My question is , why do you set at 25° for pocket knives? I did start at 25° but i got to thinking about how i did my knives by hand and i would be sharpening at at least 20°. My knives came out sharper doing it at this angle. And it seems everyone has a different way of sharpening. I'm still working on some of my knives because i wasn't doing it at the right angle. I think all knives should be at 20° except for bigger hunting knives. I think it will take a few times to get my knives back to where they should be. I bought the deluxe kit and the extra fine hone right away and it seems to be doing a good job. I would surely look at the lansky site to get the proper way to sharpen your knives. Thanks for your help.
It really depends on the use , say to shave 17 , 20 is a good sharp knife but don’t last as long as a 25 degree where you would say cut card board all day but it not as sharp as 20 but still cuts cardboard or rope great all day no issues ..... if that makes sense at all
@@dewroc66 I agree. I would use 17 on a filet knife, 20 on a kitchen knife. I would keep the 25 to an everyday pocket knife like you described. Probabble go 30 on a hatchet or machete
What knife is that???
Hi I’ve ordered 3 stone system. What is a proper angle for tactical knife?
25 degrees for outdoor knives, 20 for everyday use knives
Apply the "tactical " angle
Hola, la base donde se sujeta el sistema, se vende por separado? Gracias y saludos desde mexico
Hello, it sounds like you're looking for the universal mount. Here's a link to it: lansky.com/index.php/products/universal-mount/
Miguel adrian peña santoyo si
Hay tres bases diferentes que se venden por separado, una de aluminio, otra de plástico y una tercera que se sujeta a una mesa mediante un tornillo. Saludos desde España. Las puedes ver aquí lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/
Why my coarse diamonds hone and medium hone are soft like fine hone after 2 or 3 knifes? They loose roughness.
Hi Andrei, are you making sure you're cleaning your hones in between sharpening sessions? If they're smoothing out, it sounds like they might be filling with shavings from the knives you've sharpened. Feel free to drop a note to customerservice@lansky.com if you need someone to walk you through the process.
@@LanskySharpeners Thank you. I will try to contact them.
Looks like a great product and will be purchasing one, my only questions are why not put rubber feet on the clamp in the kits? Also why put oil with the diamond kits if you recommend not using it?
It's an extra item. Tricks people into buying it because it comes with it. Its a marketing trick I reckon.
I screwed my stand down on my hobby table.
Is it possible to over sharpen a knife ?? I know that sounds like a silly question.. Like sharpen it to where it dulls out
Sharpening literally means turning a dull blade into a sharp one. If you do that and end up with something that cuts worse than before than you didn’t sharpen it but rather used your knife as a stone scraper
I mean by grinding metal on stone you’ll inevitably going to “use” up your blade. That’s why you hoan your blade on steel until the edge gets brittle -> you put the edge back on with stone -> use blade and hoan until it loses edge again -> repeat until knife is gone.
So yeah, it is possible to “over sharpen” but id refer to it as “not sharpening correct”.
Imagine cutting back trees every year, is it possible to “over cut”? Not if you know what your doing, but if you have no clue and cut your tree at the root it’s gone lol
Demonstration starts at 3:08
Mvp
can use it for big blade like 18 inch machete?
Technical yes but you will have to move the machete so you can hone different parts of the blade
No matter what I do, I cannot get the guide rods tight enough to the stones to stop them from going off straight. Is there some sort of technique? I mean, it's literally a screw, shouldn't be hard to do but I can't make it stay.
Hi. Will this work effectively with blades that are 30 cm long?
It will work but you might have to readjust the knife in the clamp once or twice to make sure you're getting the entire length of the blade. If you like to freehand sharpen, you can also use a bench stone and get excellent results that way.
Sharpen 15 cm at time. Make a mark at the blade with a pen.
Can this system be used on Ceramic Knives?
Thank you for your question! Unfortunately, we haven't done any testing with ceramic knives, so we don't have any products that we're confident are suitable for use with them at this time.
I noticed that she sharpens in a different direction when the knife is flipped over. Is that the best method or does it matter?
It does not matter. As long as the burr is consistent and as long as the burr is completely removed at the end with a strop. The direction of the scratches do not matter.
@@JoseGabriel-dd2up Japanese knife masters ALWAYS sharpen from the tip down. But in the words of Keith Hodges...do whatever DA FUQ you wanna do!
All the videos I've seen for this system show sharpening of pocket knives only, usually 3" or 4" blades. I'm wondering how long a knife can be sharpened with this system?
Hi Jon. Our kits include instructions for sharpening knives that are under or over 7". Here's the link to the product page: lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/. You can find instructions for sharpening longer knives under the instructions tab.
If blade is greater than 7” in length:
Pick the end of the blade where you would like to start sharpening and place the clamp two finger widths away from that end of the blade. (For example, if you choose the tip, place the clamp 2 finger widths from away the tip.)
When you have the blade secured in the clamp, place your 2 fingers along both sides of the knife clamp. The area covered by your fingers (on both sides of the clamp) is your target sharpening zone. Try not to sharpen outside this zone, as this will change the angle of the hone and result in a poorly sharpened blade.
Sharpen your target zone, and with the knife still secured in the clamp, flip the clamp (and knife) over and repeat this process on the other side of the blade.
When you are finished with the first zone on both sides of the blade, measure another two-finger width starting at the edge of your freshly-sharpened area, and place the clamp next to your fingers.
Sharpen this new target zone as you did the first, roughly using the same number of sharpening strokes.
Your use of this method will minimize gaps and overlaps between your target zones, helping to ensure a continuous sharp edge when you are finished.
(i found these on the website)
Biggest knife I've Sharpened with this had a 9 or 10 inch blade, and I didn't even have to move it in the clamp.
Does this work for big knives?
Yes! For knives over 7 inches long, we recommend using our clamp, which includes a rubber insert sold separately from our system. To sharpen larger knives, it's important to work in sections. Please let me know if I can answer any more questions for you!
That rod is moving all over the place through that big hole for the particular angle designation. Too much slop to get an accurate angle. Perhaps holding your finger against the sliding rid where it goes through the hole might tighten up tolerances.
Where can I get the base for it?
Hi there. Here's the link to our Universal Mount. lansky.com/index.php/products/universal-mount/
Is it possible to sharpen straight blades with this as well, e.g. chinese cleavers and alike?
Their edges (cleavers, axes) usually are too far from the clamp and the hones can't reach them but you can sharpen some big fixed hunting knives and some thin machetes.
@@pericodelospalotes5738 i just went ahead and made a longer guide rod from a more sturdy wire cloth hanger - worked great!
@@pericodelospalotes5738 She mentioned above that you could move the clamp up or down the blade to reach all areas of edge for long knives.
Ive only redentlt purchased the 5 stone delux system to profile amd sharpen my homemade knives.
So far I havent got any complaints. But I do have a quesstion. The part(s) of my clamp that has the holes for the guide rods are not at a perfect 90°angle to the jaw portion. Is this by design or should they be at 90° to the jaws?
Hi Dennis,
Thank you for your question.
It's possible that during the machining process, or during shipment, the parts of the clamp that have the guide rod holes may have shifted a bit. If you're just seeing a small shift, you could GENTLY bend the arms (where the guide rod holes are) back into a 90 degree position. If you're finding that it's quite off though, please email us at customerservice@lansky.com, as it may be an issue for our warranty department.
Lansky Sharp,
Thanks for your reply. The system seeems to work "ok". I was able to sharpen a completely blunt edge but Im wondering if the edge could have been better if those parts of the clamp were straight. I'lll check them to see how far out of square they are. Thanks again.
Been trying a hand me down system from a family member so I am trying to figure out what the stones are in this older kit? This is a good demo and I am grateful but being a westerner I have to ask where they found this lady, she sounds to my ear like a person sourced from behind the "cheddar curtain" - reminds me a lot of Dan Akroyd doing his chicago/mid western accent!!
"Lansky" sure sounds like a Chicago name to me.
Hm…. I may be obtuse, but I can’t get this kit to work on a Victorinox SAK. At a 25 degree setting the stone will (just) clear the clamp, but at a lower setting it won’t. The blade isn’t long enough to first do one half, change its position in the clamp and then do the other. The middle gets left out. So my question is: Am I getting this wrong (how?) or is this set not suited for small edc knives?
Hi! Sorry to hear you're having some trouble. Are you using a standard clamp or one with a rubber insert? Using the standard clamp without the insert is best for smaller blades. Let us know if you have any further questions!
@@LanskySharpeners Standard clamp. Can't get it to work on a small knife and I have a bettter solution for bigger ones, so I'm sorry to say it has become superfluous.
@@bertushofstra8246 I'm so sorry to hear that! If you'd like to reach out to our customer service department, they would be happy to work with you on this - our email is customerservice@lansky.com.
Hello I have a case trapper 2 blade knife when I try put the clamp on the stone hits the clamp It's hard to get enough blade in clamp to keep it tight
Hi there! We tested a Case Trapper in our system to better understand your issue, and weren't able to replicate the problem. Could you please share a little more detail? You may also redirect your question to customerservice@lansky.com for more in-depth assistance! Hope this helps!
@@LanskySharpeners could you send a pic of the case trapper in the clamp plz
@@donniemurley8812 Please send us an email and we'll be more than happy to help you with that!
@Lansky Sharpeners send your email address please
@@donniemurley8812 Sure! You can reach us at customerservice@lansky.com
On one side you go away from the knife body, on the other you go toward the knife body. Is that correct?
Actually, you should be moving towards the knife body on both sides.
When and how do you apply the honing oil to the stones?
It's really a matter of preference. Some people use the oil on the stone to sharpen with, and others use it only after to remove any metal shavings that collected in the hone during the sharpening process. Just make sure not to use any oil at all if you have a diamond system.
@@LanskySharpeners Very helpful. Thank you.
What are the different angles of the kits?
All the kits have the same angles. 17, 20, 25, 30
WTF,? I spent the time to learn to sharpen on a Japanese Whetstone... maybe once a year I'll get some knives out and accept the hassel that goes along with it... I just got the Lansky 5 stone system for Christmas and OMG, a few passes with the last 3 stones, about 15 minutes, and sliding through a piece of paper with no hesitation whatsoever... this is going to be a great system as you can tune up every knife in the house while your watching just one movie
How do you sharpen Japanese blades with a single edge? I mean the bur will appear surely.
strop
Ok I'm confused about your video? You started on one side going from handle to knife tip. When you flipped it you went from knife tip to the handle??? Shouldn't both sides go the same direction?
my rear jaw/clamp has too much slop in the holes/slots.
Lots said about *accurate blade angle" I can't see how this can be the case as the exact angle will depend on the width of the blade, wider blades would have the edge further from the guide resulting in a lesser angle
The stone rod guide isn't a great idea. It is flimsy and loosened and begins to twist. I keep tightening it. Wouldn't it be better to secure the rod ( mold it together). 1 rod for each stone?