Just fixed my 6.9 with the same knocking sound. 1 Bad Injector is all it was. I found it by loosening each high pressure fuel line at the injector while the truck was running listening carefully as when I got to the bad injector the knock almost went away then returned when I re-tighted the line. Apparently the knock is caused by pre-detonation caused by a stuck or leaking injector. Mine live on another day.
That is right and bad injectors bend pushrods from the improper burn cycle. Search 7.3 bad injector bent pushrod. It happens in my experience on 7.3, 6.0 and 6.4L. If injector is bad, replace pushrods on that cylinder. Many customers like to ignore contribution issues which only makes it worse.
I made a lamp from a crunched up 7.3idi connecting rod which spun a bearing so bad it chewed the journal into a 1/4 inch deep groove and kept running long (years) enough to shake the bolts out of the rod cap and then finally one day it seized because the piston and rod was jammed in the block in the next cylinder over. The crank pinched the rod big end shut. Causing the seizure. So I welded the piston and rod to the cam shaft so the gear is the base and the piston and rod is at the top. I bought a neon blue Ford oval logo sign that hangs from a tiny hole i drilled in the piston and now it sits on top of my toolbox hutch at work. Blue neon light up ford sign drool. I have had many compliments on it. I think you need to make your own ford sign out of your rattly engine
@@jimmyreimer2686 if you are having oil pressure problems, remove the oil cooler (drivers side lower block area) . There is an oil pressure relief valve in the oil cooler housing/ mounting point near the oil filter. The valve sticks and on high mileage trucks the spool part comes right off so it looks like a fucking washer loose on the spool. Even happens on 2001 7.3 trucks with 600,000. Truck runs mint but gets low oil pressure guage goes to 0 pressure. even on heui injected trucks because the oil volume is enough to keep the hpop happy. On an early idi the valve is not removable, it is peened into the housing. On newer 7.3 there is a snap ring holding the valve. You don't have to remove or replace the valve unless you can remove the snap ring and you see the loose washer lookin thing. Spray it with penetrating oil and work it back and forth. When it moves free it is ready to reinstal. +++ I usually remove the cooler and use a pick to pull the valve up first to see if it is actually stuck. If not suspect something else.
@@jimmyreimer2686 also in most idi trucks u need to remove the fan shroud or fan from water pump, remove the 2 engine mount to frame crossmember nuts and lift the engine up enough on the drivers side to fit the cooler assembly out. Its slutty if you dont remove the fan shroud cuz you cant tilt the engine far enough. You cannot see the valve without removing the oil cooler from the block. Order oil cooler gaskets in advance too
I had a 91 7.3 that did the same thing when I would get it hot after a long hill climb it would go away but as the engine cooled back down to normal operating it would come back it was probably an injector or something but I never did figured it out the truck is long gone now I wish I held on to it
someone told me it was fuel knock but mine always did it. it came about when I opened up the exhaust and intake box for better airflow and I found that after a hard hill climb it went away for a while untill the heads cooled back down to a lower operating temperature, could have been a bad or failing valve seat or the rings were letting engine oil by, never figured it out. I sold the engine for 100 dollars truck included and the engine still runs today 10 years later and the guy said it's the strongest 7.3 he ever had, ??? so I don't know.
So it's over look im my case was dual mass flyweel something that its basically 2 parts and it has some springs plastic and when it brakes just make that horrible noise manual transmission
I had issues with that DMF, I had issues where it would start to shake violently then if you goosed it the noise would go away. I finally yanked the transmission out & threw in a new SMF, new clutch & pressure plate. We torqued everything the best we could & used some red loctite on all the bolts that are spinning. Because it is a SMF it is going to be louder by default, but I had to put some spacers between the inspection plate & the transmission cuz it was kinda horrifying. The throw out bearing does vibrate a little that fades out once under load & Or clutch depressed.
When I sold the truck the guy that bought it told me he would give me updates when he tore it down. Apparantly the engine had cavitation, and a cracked flex plate. I believe those were the things that made the knocking noise.
@David Osborne cracked flex plate... isn't that on the flywheel though? I've got that same knock in mine right now but it's real loud thru the intake. Next step I'll be pulling the valve covers off and checking/adjusting valves.
@@josephpacheco7508 have you tried cracking the fuel lines at the injector? If its through the intake start with the least invasive and move from there. with the truck idling work through all 8 lines, one off back on, and see if it goes away. Then pull your valve covers if you need. The driver's side is a breeze. the passengers side has the dipstick and fuel filter in the way, don't try to shortcut it... Go ahead and get that stuff outta the way. Good luck bro! Love an IDI!!!
Just fixed my 6.9 with the same knocking sound. 1 Bad Injector is all it was. I found it by loosening each high pressure fuel line at the injector while the truck was running listening carefully as when I got to the bad injector the knock almost went away then returned when I re-tighted the line. Apparently the knock is caused by pre-detonation caused by a stuck or leaking injector. Mine live on another day.
That is right and bad injectors bend pushrods from the improper burn cycle. Search 7.3 bad injector bent pushrod. It happens in my experience on 7.3, 6.0 and 6.4L. If injector is bad, replace pushrods on that cylinder. Many customers like to ignore contribution issues which only makes it worse.
Would the valve be bad to my 7.3 idi 1993 is doing the same
I made a lamp from a crunched up 7.3idi connecting rod which spun a bearing so bad it chewed the journal into a 1/4 inch deep groove and kept running long (years) enough to shake the bolts out of the rod cap and then finally one day it seized because the piston and rod was jammed in the block in the next cylinder over. The crank pinched the rod big end shut. Causing the seizure. So I welded the piston and rod to the cam shaft so the gear is the base and the piston and rod is at the top. I bought a neon blue Ford oval logo sign that hangs from a tiny hole i drilled in the piston and now it sits on top of my toolbox hutch at work. Blue neon light up ford sign drool. I have had many compliments on it. I think you need to make your own ford sign out of your rattly engine
Lmfaooooooo. 10/10 great help
@@jimmyreimer2686 if you are having oil pressure problems, remove the oil cooler (drivers side lower block area) . There is an oil pressure relief valve in the oil cooler housing/ mounting point near the oil filter. The valve sticks and on high mileage trucks the spool part comes right off so it looks like a fucking washer loose on the spool. Even happens on 2001 7.3 trucks with 600,000. Truck runs mint but gets low oil pressure guage goes to 0 pressure. even on heui injected trucks because the oil volume is enough to keep the hpop happy. On an early idi the valve is not removable, it is peened into the housing. On newer 7.3 there is a snap ring holding the valve. You don't have to remove or replace the valve unless you can remove the snap ring and you see the loose washer lookin thing. Spray it with penetrating oil and work it back and forth. When it moves free it is ready to reinstal. +++ I usually remove the cooler and use a pick to pull the valve up first to see if it is actually stuck. If not suspect something else.
@@jimmyreimer2686 also in most idi trucks u need to remove the fan shroud or fan from water pump, remove the 2 engine mount to frame crossmember nuts and lift the engine up enough on the drivers side to fit the cooler assembly out. Its slutty if you dont remove the fan shroud cuz you cant tilt the engine far enough. You cannot see the valve without removing the oil cooler from the block. Order oil cooler gaskets in advance too
@@jimmyreimer2686 the valve also sticks on engines that have been parked.
I had a 91 7.3 that did the same thing when I would get it hot after a long hill climb it would go away but as the engine cooled back down to normal operating it would come back it was probably an injector or something but I never did figured it out the truck is long gone now I wish I held on to it
Sounds like a lifter or tapet to me, i've heard of people cracking the injector lines checking for bad injectors.
Same noise here after first refill here in Colombia. I fear the diesel is bad.
Fyi, mine was a dead rod and crankshaft, had to rebuild the entire engine
someone told me it was fuel knock but mine always did it. it came about when I opened up the exhaust and intake box for better airflow and I found that after a hard hill climb it went away for a while untill the heads cooled back down to a lower operating temperature, could have been a bad or failing valve seat or the rings were letting engine oil by, never figured it out. I sold the engine for 100 dollars truck included and the engine still runs today 10 years later and the guy said it's the strongest 7.3 he ever had, ??? so I don't know.
Same here
Sounds like a injector went out
Mine was just an injector same side mine was in back
So it's over look im my case was dual mass flyweel something that its basically 2 parts and it has some springs plastic and when it brakes just make that horrible noise manual transmission
I had issues with that DMF, I had issues where it would start to shake violently then if you goosed it the noise would go away.
I finally yanked the transmission out & threw in a new SMF, new clutch & pressure plate. We torqued everything the best we could & used some red loctite on all the bolts that are spinning.
Because it is a SMF it is going to be louder by default, but I had to put some spacers between the inspection plate & the transmission cuz it was kinda horrifying.
The throw out bearing does vibrate a little that fades out once under load &
Or clutch depressed.
Did you ever figure out what it was mine is making the same noise as yours
When I sold the truck the guy that bought it told me he would give me updates when he tore it down. Apparantly the engine had cavitation, and a cracked flex plate. I believe those were the things that made the knocking noise.
@David Osborne cracked flex plate... isn't that on the flywheel though? I've got that same knock in mine right now but it's real loud thru the intake. Next step I'll be pulling the valve covers off and checking/adjusting valves.
@@josephpacheco7508
have you tried cracking the fuel lines at the injector?
If its through the intake start with the least invasive and move from there. with the truck idling work through all 8 lines, one off back on, and see if it goes away. Then pull your valve covers if you need. The driver's side is a breeze. the passengers side has the dipstick and fuel filter in the way, don't try to shortcut it... Go ahead and get that stuff outta the way.
Good luck bro!
Love an IDI!!!
@@josephpacheco7508i can hear my tick through my intake as well! Did you figure out the problem?
Injectors are not atomising