Hunting IDLE Problem Fixed - 1989 Saleen Mustang #50
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- čas přidán 11. 04. 2022
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We actually get to flip the key on this Foxbody Saleen Mustang in this video which is the first time in over 11 years since this car has been started. What did we do to get here and why? Check out the video to see what we've done. See if it actually runs. We did have a couple of SNAFU's along the way.
We're documenting the preservation and restoration of 1989 #Saleen #50. Follow along as we work to get this #Foxbody #Mustang running again and preserve it for future generations. The car has had a #1993 #Cobra motor swapped in and has a laundry list of typical 1990's and early 2000's modifications.
Foxbody Saleen's have grown in value in recent yers and cars like this are surfacing so they can be restored and driven again. Subscribe to follow along on what we do to get this car running again. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks for sharing this Bob. The failed FPR was also what I first considered when you showed the gas in the vacuum line. I’d never heard of that happening before. Sure made sense however. Great video. Can’t wait to see all you do with this Saleen.
Mechanic of over 30 years here, well done my friend thumbs up!👍
As soon as you showed the plugs first thing that came to mind was the FPR. Nice find
I put one of those "adjustable " regulators on my built 331 and it was junk! Stuck on 52lbs no matter how you adjusted it, had to go with a new stock one
I have a 91 and a 89,on my 91 i have been having problems with idle fluctuation,I'm gonna run a smoke test this weekend but my capacitors are shot so i need to address that too and that could be the cause of all my issues, here recently i was able to score a old EEC-IV Ford monitor,it cracks me up when some people say its "outdated", lol,that machine was created specifically for Ford cars of the period and unless you dropped a new Coyote or some futuristic engine that machine is a godsend and exactly made to test these cars , if you can find one i highly recommended it.
It was a trip to get the car going and watching all the sensors operating exactly as they were meant to in real time,people always suspect the ECT or ACT and how its no good and i need to find another one etc,with that machine you can see how they operate when they are good and you see the values dropping as the engine warms up etc , your mass air,TPS sensor etc, i was real glad i bought it, i found a lady in long beach California,i guess her husband worked for Ford and she had 2 in excellent condition.
That black one 🔥
In the process of root cause troubleshooting the FPR, did you happen to test the FP at the rail behind the alternator before pulling the plugs? Although with it being as rich as you noted the plugs were likely a quicker choice.
On the electrolytic caps, I would recommend a higher voltage rating step while keeping the same value (if its a 16V cap, 20V will be more robust. In my field we typically derate our caps by a factor of 2, so running a 24V cap on a 12V line is common practice) I purchased my replacements from Digi-Key.
The fumes were really really bad and this car has functional cats on it. I started with the spark plug because I wanted to see how bad they were. The car had run 15 minutes tops to get up to temp and based on the spark plug condition it was probably not far from fouling a few of them. When that one was dripping wet I knew it was likely the fuel pressure regulator. If I had tested pressure at the schrader valve it would have likely pointed to the regulator not working properly. The diaphragm inside of the fuel pressure regulator is something that can fail and fuel enters the vacuum system. I've seen it happen before.
Also, that's a great suggestion on the caps. I failed to recognize that solid suggestion. That's good info.
Awesome video love the channel just subscribed for more content to help me with my project, quick question on the FPR what size is the vaccum line going from the intake to the FPR I cannot find anything online thanks again
Thanks JW! The stock line is a red hard plastic line with 90* rubber elbows. I can't remember the exact size off-hand but I believe 5/32" or 3/16" vacuum hose will work.
Awesome thanks so much for the help man I truly appreciate it have a blessed joyful day knowing that the blood of Jesus Christ cleanses us from our sin with repentance of our sin and faith in him. Thanks again!
Stable idle - CHECK! Done.
i have a 94’ 5.0 , used to idle at 1100 and would hear my chop nice and loud , changed my idle control valve and now idles around 800 but with no chop , i have an aftermarket camshaft (E-303) need some help 🙏🏼
Sounds like you solved an issue. If it’s running right I would leave it be. The E cam doesn’t have as much of a lope as the more aggressive B and X Ford Motorsport cams.
My volt meter is low just like yours ...🤔
You're not supposed to mess with the idle set screw.
On old junk you can…
Could have blown up?
Living in new zealand and have a ford falcon sprint that has the same issue,s ,thanks
Hopefully it sends you down the path of the right solution.