A Complete and Detailed Guide to replacing your Jeep's Ball Joints. Applies to Jeep Cherokee (XJ) 84-01, Jeep Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 93-98, Jeep Wrangler (YJ, TJ and LJ) 87-06, and Jeep Comanche (MJ) 86-92.
Owning a 20 year old TJ means you better learn how fix things yourself or you are going to be wasting a lot of money. This is by far the best Jeep repair video I have watched. Just did the upper and lower ball joints on the driver side yesterday. I had this video on the tv in the garage and just followed right along. I was dealing with a bit more rust but I got the job done. Successfully completing this project motivated me to do some other much needed maintenance items. Going to do the passenger side today and will try leaving the axle nut on this time. Thanks for putting this together. It seriously saved me a ton of money and it was fun too!
This is how you make a HOWTO video. Great technical detail, lighting, editing, text/graphic overlays. Harry Connick Jr. can play piano and replace ball joints, too! 👍
I really love the fact that you put on the screen what size sockets and wrenches to use even after you say it, that goes a long way for a lot of people! And I love the fact that you outline or mark the parts with the white lines and include the names, very helpful and informative! Great work!
Very informative, thank you. This really helped me get the job done on my '03 TJ. However, for those of you, like myself, who are changing ball joints to get rid of 'death wobble', should do yourself a favor and check your front hubs (bearings) before you take the tires off. Once the vehicle is lifted, hold the tire at 12 and 6 and see if there's any vertical play and dull metal tapping sound while jiggling it. This was the culprit on my driver's side vibrations and I only discovered it AFTER complete reassembly, so I had to take it back off all the way to the axle. Still, it was worth it, I'm riding as smooth as a Wrangler can, which is not smooth at all but with no wobble.
Thanks for the vid. Got bored during Pandemic Lockdown and I pulled my 99 TJ out of the garage after not driving it in 3-4 years because I didn't feel like replacing the cracked exhaust manifold. So I did that without issue one weekend. Next weekend did a roadside repair of a faulty CPS, and noticed my right front brake was squeaking/dragging. So here I am in week 3 doing brakes and find my steering knuckle has the dreaded pad indents/grooves on the slide causing the pads to hang. So ordering steering knuckle replacements, wheel hub assembly, rotors and pads and ball joints since i have it all apart, i might as well knock it all out. Thanks for the clear vid, just what the Doctor ordered for everything i have to do.
that's the best ball joint video I have watched yet. I'm a idiot when it comes to that kind of thing and you made it crystal clear. Thank you very much I had your video playing the whole time I did mine and it went perfectly smooth
If you're just replacing ball joints you can leave the axle nut on and pull the hub assembly and shaft as one piece. Saves the hassle of removing then re-torquing the nut.
Hands down the best instructional video I have seen. The printed tech data was an awesome bonus. Please do more as I have an 05 LJ Rubicon I will follow your lead on my vehicle
Really good step-by-step video of the ball joint replacement - nice job. As others have noted, many of us own crusty Jeeps where these components are heavily rusted. For those doing this for the first time with rusty parts: If you can't get the old ball joints to move using the press, you will need to heat up the 'C' metal the ball joints are being held by using a torch (a hand torch with a MAP gas bottle will work). First take a wire wheel and remove surface rust as must as you can, then apply penetrating oil like PB Blaster and let it soak in awhile. Next, use the torch, avoid applying direct heat to the ball joint itself as much as possible. You shouldn't need to get the metal 'cherry red' with the torch, but you will need to get the metal fairly hot, and the ball joints should break loose. Note - do NOT apply heat with the ball joint press mounted. Heat the metal first, then assemble the press over the ball joints and push them out. Use gloves to avoid getting burned (and safety glass too). My old very crusty ball joints would not budge without heat. For installation, use caution with heat when installing new ball joints, as the heat could damage the ball joint. You shouldn't need heat to re-install, though it may make it easier to press in. Some ball joints have an internal plastic component that will melt at high enough temps - with removal, this doesn't matter, but installation, you don't want to ruin a new ball joint using too much heat. Some have recommended the combination of freezing the ball joint, and heating the 'C' metal to ease installation - it will work, but if you use the heat to excess, then you run the risk of ruining the new ball joint. Good luck
One of the best informative videos I've seen yet; fantastic job: clear, concise and to the point. Nice touch having all the necessary socket sizes and torques included in the video. Much appreciated.......
I know this video is 6 years old, but I wanted to leave a comment to say that this has been extremely thorough and helpful. Thank you for making this.
Owning a 20 year old TJ means you better learn how fix things yourself or you are going to be wasting a lot of money. This is by far the best Jeep repair video I have watched. Just did the upper and lower ball joints on the driver side yesterday. I had this video on the tv in the garage and just followed right along. I was dealing with a bit more rust but I got the job done. Successfully completing this project motivated me to do some other much needed maintenance items. Going to do the passenger side today and will try leaving the axle nut on this time. Thanks for putting this together. It seriously saved me a ton of money and it was fun too!
one of the best jeep how-to videos i've watched.
great video! no language, clean place, clear viewing
This is how you make a HOWTO video. Great technical detail, lighting, editing, text/graphic overlays. Harry Connick Jr. can play piano and replace ball joints, too! 👍
I really love the fact that you put on the screen what size sockets and wrenches to use even after you say it, that goes a long way for a lot of people! And I love the fact that you outline or mark the parts with the white lines and include the names, very helpful and informative! Great work!
Best instructional video I've ever watched. Perfect clarity, beautifully edited and spot on commentary. Thanks!
Definitely a great video for step by step purposes! In reality, there is a lot more rust and this job is a pain in the ass!!!
Very informative, thank you. This really helped me get the job done on my '03 TJ. However, for those of you, like myself, who are changing ball joints to get rid of 'death wobble', should do yourself a favor and check your front hubs (bearings) before you take the tires off. Once the vehicle is lifted, hold the tire at 12 and 6 and see if there's any vertical play and dull metal tapping sound while jiggling it. This was the culprit on my driver's side vibrations and I only discovered it AFTER complete reassembly, so I had to take it back off all the way to the axle. Still, it was worth it, I'm riding as smooth as a Wrangler can, which is not smooth at all but with no wobble.
Thanks for the vid. Got bored during Pandemic Lockdown and I pulled my 99 TJ out of the garage after not driving it in 3-4 years because I didn't feel like replacing the cracked exhaust manifold. So I did that without issue one weekend. Next weekend did a roadside repair of a faulty CPS, and noticed my right front brake was squeaking/dragging. So here I am in week 3 doing brakes and find my steering knuckle has the dreaded pad indents/grooves on the slide causing the pads to hang. So ordering steering knuckle replacements, wheel hub assembly, rotors and pads and ball joints since i have it all apart, i might as well knock it all out. Thanks for the clear vid, just what the Doctor ordered for everything i have to do.
I don’t even need to replace ball joints. This is just entertaining.
that's the best ball joint video I have watched yet. I'm a idiot when it comes to that kind of thing and you made it crystal clear. Thank you very much I had your video playing the whole time I did mine and it went perfectly smooth
If you're just replacing ball joints you can leave the axle nut on and pull the hub assembly and shaft as one piece. Saves the hassle of removing then re-torquing the nut.
Hands down the best instructional video I have seen. The printed tech data was an awesome bonus. Please do more as I have an 05 LJ Rubicon I will follow your lead on my vehicle
Don’t stop making Jeep repair videos. 👍🏻
What a great video!! Straight to the point, no joking around. Very clear, very steady. Thank you!!
Really good step-by-step video of the ball joint replacement - nice job. As others have noted, many of us own crusty Jeeps where these components are heavily rusted. For those doing this for the first time with rusty parts: If you can't get the old ball joints to move using the press, you will need to heat up the 'C' metal the ball joints are being held by using a torch (a hand torch with a MAP gas bottle will work). First take a wire wheel and remove surface rust as must as you can, then apply penetrating oil like PB Blaster and let it soak in awhile. Next, use the torch, avoid applying direct heat to the ball joint itself as much as possible. You shouldn't need to get the metal 'cherry red' with the torch, but you will need to get the metal fairly hot, and the ball joints should break loose. Note - do NOT apply heat with the ball joint press mounted. Heat the metal first, then assemble the press over the ball joints and push them out. Use gloves to avoid getting burned (and safety glass too). My old very crusty ball joints would not budge without heat. For installation, use caution with heat when installing new ball joints, as the heat could damage the ball joint. You shouldn't need heat to re-install, though it may make it easier to press in. Some ball joints have an internal plastic component that will melt at high enough temps - with removal, this doesn't matter, but installation, you don't want to ruin a new ball joint using too much heat. Some have recommended the combination of freezing the ball joint, and heating the 'C' metal to ease installation - it will work, but if you use the heat to excess, then you run the risk of ruining the new ball joint. Good luck
Like a boss. One of the best instructional videos. Was searching for tie rod replacement but ended up watching the whole thing.
One of the best informative videos I've seen yet; fantastic job: clear, concise and to the point. Nice touch having all the necessary socket sizes and torques included in the video. Much appreciated.......
I’m installing a lift and replacing a bunch of front end parts. I have resorted to this video multiple times. I can’t thank you enough for making it.