Looks like someone needs a graphing multimeter for christmas. Thanks for the video, very helpful, I'll start checking all the vans that come in with driveability issues.
thanks for taking the time to post these video's you are "THE MAN" when it comes to sprinter vans saving all of us diyers from taking our cars to the stealerships!
Thanks a lot for the knowledge, I own a 2005 T1n Sprinter 3500, I'm having the same problem when driving and force the speed a little bit I lose the turbo, I have to pull over and turn off and on the engine for the turbo to get back. I'm definitely learning with your videos, they are excellent, short and to the point! I appreciate that, thanks a lot.👍
Hi Luis. You actually don't need to pull over. We have a video on resetting the limp mode on-the-go. Practice the flip-flop once while parked and engine off. Your loss of turbo when accelerating is most likely a leak in the turbo hoses, broken plastic resonator, (see video for aluminum resonator) or stuck EGR (see video for cleaning EGR).
Very cool! I'm going to test my MAF on my 03 tomorrow. Had an EGR code, but disconnected MAF and EGR code went away. I might connect my Picoscope just for fun to see what the PWM looks like. Thanks for the video!
Just to add more confusion; I saw a 2021 sprinter source discussion re: t21 recall (if performed) may require a “teach-in” after the recall so the MAF works properly. The was more things in the article that I don’t understand, but head over there if you need more info. The ecu has to relearn. This got me thinking when the MAF sensors were placed in different sprinters.
The intake adaptive setting will adjust themselves over the next 50 miles or so. They can get stuck, holding your EGR closed at 6% and not adapting back when parts are replaced, but this is uncommon.
I have an 06 3500, Turbo is not working, Had codes for MAP, MAF and Air Temp so I replaced those sensors. I also put new intercooler hoses on. I have the aluminum resonator replacement on I installed years ago as well. After all that, got a code for low boost. Checked the actuator, it was bad. Replaced it and I can tell it works by unplugging and plugging the MAF, the rod is free and moves the vane arm during testing. When we rev the engine, the actuator does not move at all. You can hear under the van it sounds like air bypassing inside the exhaust, I'm sure is explained by the vanes not being advanced in the turbo. What am I missing now? Could it be the EGR or are there any other sensors tied to the actuator???
Does the MAF sensor pass the test in this video? 1-on-1 support is a member benefit. Please help make more videos and advice possible with just 46 cents a day by join our support group at patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
Mine started acting up a couple days ago, voltage drops like your know good one. I also have another van and swapped with same results. Throwing codes 2067 and 2068 regarding mass air issue. Wondering what else is in line that would cause this 🤔 With the issue I get no turbo actuator movement and black smoke with sluggish acceleration
Voltage dropping is good, but from what to where? 2068 suggest the modulation rate is off, which would change the voltage on our volt meter significantly. If your volt meter doesn't start near the same numbers shown in video, try another meter. It could be you are getting proper response to throttle but starting with the reading outside permissible range.
@@FloridaVanMan the voltage while back probing reads around the 2.5 v and drops slightly with acceleration. This is the same on the known good van. The egr blades snap back nicely and I hear the snap when the key it turned on and off. Also if I unplug egr then i get a code for it. I noticed the intake air temp reading that would come from the mass is froze at 80c and when I unplug the good vans mass I get the same reading.
I’ve read through the comments, I watched the video, and I’m still having a bit of trouble I bought my 2006 T1n 3500, And I had all of the fluids replaced, and had them put in a new hair air filter, after which time the engine light came on. I told them, they said everything was connected. I had a diesel mechanic check everything out the next day, they said everything was fine and that the engine code was some thing I would have to go to the dealer for. Useless. The code is P0107, I have driven it a few hundred miles since buying it, and I noticed it is starting to stall a little bit and sputter a little bit… I think it is this engine code. I’m worried about hurting the van. I’ve done the actuator test that you have here, unplugging it and plugging it back in while it’s running, I see that little arm thingy move down. The engine light was not on when I bought it. I don’t think that this sensor is bad, but for some reason I’m getting this code… I still can’t understand if it is the MAP or the MAF... I don’t really know what to do next, any suggestions? Thank you so much for your videos, they’re extremely helpful
P0107 suggests the MAP sensor has an issue. That is the little guy on top of the air filter lid. The connectors are prone to corrosion and the wires are routed in the most common areas for chaffing and getting caught in the fan. I don't have a test for this sensor, but it is a $25 part from MillionMileSprinter.com Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor is different from the boost pressure sensor behind the left headlight. The boost sensor might be worth replacing at the same time. It is also $25 part.
Im getting a charge pressure is too high on my 2005 sprinter I thought it might be the maf or the turbo actuator but the unplugging the naf moves the turbo actuator down. Basically when accelerating it hesitates sometimes so not sure where else to start looking if you have any suggestions?
Charge pressure too high is usually a torn hose or cracked turbo resonator. The system tries to compensate for lost pressure through a small leak and is unable to regulate, so a leak can often cause a high or low pressure code, or both. Look for our Turbo Resonator video and check all hoses. Tears in hoses will hide and it happens all the time, folks are sure the hoses are good but on the third check or fourth check just to be extra sure... there it is! Best to take the turbo hoses off and inspect the inside while bending them a little. Or if they look old replace them as preventative with hope of solving current issue. When replacing the boost hoses on the intake side, what we often call the elephant hose, do not replace the plastic union unless you are also replacing the boost sensor and boost pressure sensors in that plastic union. Throw the new union away and install new hoses on union with sensors installed to avoid causing oily boost leaks at the sensors. For more 1-on-1 assistance please join our support group. patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
my sprinter 2011 3.0l smokes a lot, i changed the turbo and nothing happened and i tested the voltage of the mass flow sensor and dont see any signal nor voltage.
I'm not sure 2011 uses the same technology MAF. I've used this test for 2004-2009 Sprinters. I'm sure it does not work on 2000-2003 but I don't know about 2010 and beyond.
Dozens of things can cause limp mode. Read codes with a compatible* code reader like AP200 or iCarsoft MBII. We have videos for setting up the meter and how to navigate the menu. Autel AP200: amzn.to/2GD04Ft
My linkage stays up when started . So I put my maf in another van and it works as it should. I think it's a wire brocken Perhaps the sensor signal one.?
Moving your MAF to another van is NOT a valid test of anything. As shown in the first minutes of the video, a MAF can die different ways and a failed MAF will effect different vans differently. Read the voltage and stop guessing!
@@1ManVan I went through too many parts in recent years, buying the cheapest ones on eBay. We've always known cheap can be junk, but when I felt poor I bought cheap. I think that cost more in the long run, due to frequent replacements. I can list parts that I replaced less than a year old, through 2019, so I quit buying cheap parts and it seems to be paying-off. I don't think MAF is on that list, but I know I replaced water pump, heater valve, and EGR, each twice 2018-2020. That's just on my daily driver, so I started buying expensive parts at MillionMileSprinter trusting the quality has been vetted better than eBay & Amazon sellers.
you probably dont care but does anybody know of a method to get back into an instagram account? I was dumb forgot the password. I would love any tricks you can give me
Do you know what I should do next? When I unplug the MAF the actuator does not move. I have already preplaced the MAF & EGR. No problem is no turbo at all. Van worked previously, but van wasn't used in 6 months and now no turbo.
What year is your van? The '02-'03 USA models are vacuum activated turbo and react slowly if at all when the MAF is unplugged. With the new MAF installed do you get the voltages & changes seen in this video? What are the codes and what code reader are you using. We have links to the best $70 Sprinter code reader in several video descriptions.
Great video as always gents! Are you able to reset adaptives with that Autel Bluetooth scanner you use? I haven't looked for this function. Thanks again!
I sure do! You're van was originally sold outside of North America so Mercedes didn't install a bunch of NAFTA trash in it. There are pros and cons to both types.
My tn1 sprinter has a maf sensor code that wont go away. Comes back even before starting the engine. The code is "2624-001 The permissible limit value for the air mass was exceeded". Its a new bosch MAF and checks okay with volt meter. I have a xentry/DAS with c3 mux. The live data shows 0 value for specified value and actual value with engine idle and off. Air filter is new and i checked for leaks as well. Any ideas? Nice video btw
Do you know if the T-21 recall has been done on the van? DON'T let anyone do that recall if you can avoid it. Does that version of DAS have an option for "Reset Intake Adaptive Settings"?
@@FloridaVanMan Hi thank you for your reply. Not sure about the recall on this van if it was done or not. I bought the c3 mux and the laptop with xentry preinstalled for this exact issue. I was hoping to find the adaptive reset but cant find it under adaptions. its version 07/2015. Its supposed to be the newest for c3 mux? or so ive read..Would a reflash from SOS fix this? thanks
@@FloridaVanMan my xentry is 07/2015 does that mean my DAS is is also 07/2015?. couldnt see reset intake adaptive settings under adaptions which is a huge bummer since thats why i bought all the equipment for this one issue.. Would having it reflashed from SOS fix this you think? Not sure if the recall was done.
@@meowler90 I'm trying to find out which version of DAS we had first. It performed the reset before that computer took a dump and somehow we ended up with a different DAS that doesn't have the option. Please join our support group for 1-on-1 assistance. Membership contributions make this channel possible. patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
I am working on a 2005 sprinter I just put new from mercades map and boost pressure sensors and it would not start till I unplugged the boost pressure sensor. Can u help? Codes were 0069 then 0106 now boost pressure sensor because I have 2 unplug it.
Hello, I’m getting a P0101, I clear the code and comes right back when I crank it. I did the disconnect test but it seems to work backwards, if I disconnect the sensor the rod goes down. Any ideas? Voltage drop seems ok, any help would be greatly appreciated, just got this van is a 2005 2.7 and it was neglected, is only got 81k miles and I’m trying to get it back to decent shape. Thank you
P0101 is a generic code and your van did not produce that code. You need a compatible code reader. We have links at floridavanman.com/links/ and videos showing how to setup the meter correctly. Please consider joining our Patreon membership from the donate tab for one on one assistance.
T1N with MAF code. Your video on the MAF sensor said to disconnect it and you should see the lever move: mine DID. When Check Engine light came on the vehicle was running fine, NO Limp Mode or problems accelerating or taking a hill? ANY ideas? THANK YOU
Important note, this test does not work for 02 & 03 North American Sprinters. They have vacuum actuated turbo and may drop but much slower and the volt meter test doesn't work at all. If your van is 04-06 did you test with volt meter like shown? Just unplugging proves the ECM knows the MAF is still there and it didn't burn out*. That doesn't mean it responds to changes in air flow. A MAF can die a few different ways for different reasons.
THANK YOU FLVANMAN. My T1N is a 2006 does that mean the test is valid? Also, I have the two hoses that go straight from the metal lines into the fuel pump leaking at the fuel pump. Could that cause the same code?
Those fuel hoses were almost impossible to find but I did manage to find both of them. SO I'm going to wait till I get those, put them on and then test with the meter. This way there won't be any other influences in the readings. I have a new MAF sensor for it but I don't want to install it until I'm sure that is the absolute problem.
@@FloridaVanMan EXCELLENT vid on replacing those fuel hoses. The only thing I was wondering is why not use Mercedes hose clamps? And do YOU have to have those special pliers to apply Mercedes clamps and to remove them? THANK YOU
Hey, would these tests work for a 2003 T1N? I have a vacuum actuated boost solenoid on mine. I did the back prove and get a reading of around 1.98 V on idle and it goes UP to almost 4 volts when revved. Bad maf?
Very helpful video, thank you. I also have a 2003 T1n, and have similar results, unplugging the MAF does not move the boost control arm, (vacuum controlled) and voltage goes up from 2.08v to 2.88v when motor is revv’d. Trying to figure out if this is normal......
I also have a 2003 with erratic under boost codes. I checked my MAF today and see 2.12 v at idle and 4v at 4000 RPMs. My boost control arm moves down upon start and stays down when I unplug the MAF sensor. I thought this may indicate a bad MAF sensor based on this video until I saw these comments. Thanks for the video!
het, great video.. i have a sprinter maf sensor error p0101, the old one i messured 4,5 volt andt the new one i got (brand facet) i messure 4,7 volt. as the rpm increases the voltage goes up.. any idea whats wrong?? could i just be unlucky to get two bad maf sensors
What year van? We learned after making this video, the older MAF works differently (OM612 2002-2003). Higher voltage and increase with RPM is proper. Sorry for the confusion.
My voltage increases instead of dropping as in your vid. Is my MAF bad? All the other vids show MAF voltage increasing upon acceleration. Please clarify. Thanks
What year is your van. Since making this video we have learned the older style MAF works very differently. This test is good for 2004-2006 Sprinters and probably some newer NCV3 vans. But the older 2002 & 2003 test differently.
Easy way is unplug the MAF and see if the van still stalls. If it just barely gets started before turning itself off, I'm pretty sure that will be the MAF gone on permanent vacation. If the van starts with MAF unplugged but stalls as soon as you plug it in, that's a sure sign the MAF is a goner.
2006 dodge sprinter 2068 code, van starts fine if maf sensor unplugged but if I connect the maf sensor it dies, if I tried to start the van with sensor connected it doesn’t start. I have replaced the sensor twice and is the same thing. Seems like the wiring is fine. I got code 2068 with maf connected and 2067 and 2068 with sensor disconnected. Also I did a research and diagram I get says that the blue violet wire is the 5v signal wire, hope you are able to help. Thank you!
I've seen many variations of wire diagrams and when the wire colors don't match what's in the van I just move on. Codes 2067 & 2068 are usually a bad MAF, so if you have replaced it twice I wonder where you are getting your parts. O'Riley's and RockAuto are almost famous for MAFs that don't fit and many Amazon sellers list the MAF as fitting 2003-2009 Sprinter. The 2003 and 2004 use completely different signaling in their MAFs that looks very similar, so you might be getting the wrong part. This is the right one, and a good one that will last. www.millionmilesprinter.com/product-page/mass-air-flow-sensor-2004-2006
I did tried 2 autozone sensors and 1 old one. I was wondering if you have had any issues with this specific code and the problem is the computer. I just order another one from advance oem for about 220 dollars, I will try this one if not will order the one you are telling me next. Appreciate your time and help.
EDIT: I just looked up the pinout and realized I was testing between the 5v reference (not the ground) and the sensor signal wires. I'll do some more testing. I get 1 volt at the MAF sensor wire when grounding the meter to the engine, but 3.9 volts when grounding the meter to the sensor ground. WHAT DOES IT MEAN?? The voltage doesn't seem to go down when revving the engine in either scenario.
Hi, having a slow purring in idle and pulsing headlights to match on my 2001 CDI 311. Also does the light pulse thing whilst driving. It's been suggested by someone that it may be an MAF fault but mine doesnt have one to the right of the air filter like yours? Really confused, so if you could point me in the right direction it would be massively appreciated. Thanks, Steve.
MAF is probably most common, but the code is telling us the air flow in the boost system isn't right. Many things can cause this. EGR, hose leaks, resonator and more.
What are you reading that code with? Our van's vocabulary does not contain the code P0106 and doesn't have a MAP sensor. We have a boost pressure sensor not the cold-side intercooler hose and an intake air pressure sensor on top of the air filter box. Different sources will inaccurately refer to each of those as Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP). We have links to two code readers that work with our vans at floridavanman.com/links/ and a video showing how to setup the little white one.
@@FloridaVanMan I am using an Autel Maxi Diag 802 and it says PO106 (Manifold Absolute Pressure) when I read live data it idles at 14.7 p.s.i. @ 2000rpm. rises to about 17p.s.i. The 1st time this cel. ever came on it was very cold and I was running with my radiator covered in between fan and radiator. I deleted it stayed off awhile then would come back on a restart. Now it got worse and stays on all the time. Someone suggested I look for a chaffed wire in the harness behind fuel filter. I tried to clean the MAP with carb cleaner and it seems to have gotten worse. But I am just wondering am I getting normal readings from the sensor ?
@@dony.9014 14-17 psi is certainly the boost pressure on the cold side, not intake air sensor on the air filter box. Boost pressure sensor and boost temp sensor are on the plastic coupler in that cold side hose. If you cleaned the "MAF" with brake cleaner test your MAF again as this video shows. Our MAF won't withstand cleaning like an old style hot-wire MAF. Our vans use a "hot-film" technology and aerosol cleaners break the film.
So you are saying I am getting the P0106 code due to a faulty MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor as I did have that code about 2 yrs. ago and got rid of it by installing a used mass air flow sensor. So if I replace my sensor with a new one problem should go away? As I recall they are pretty expensive.
@@dony.9014 No, I'm saying you are getting P0106 because your code reader is not compatible with your van. The van's OBD cannot produce a code P0106 because that code is not in the van's library. What ever code IS ACTUALLY stored in the van's OBD is not being recognized by your incompatible code reader so we are only guessing at what the code may actually mean. it is like a big French word and our vans only speak Italian. The interpretation you are getting on that code reader might be close or might be completely out of left field. the van and the reader are not speaking the same language. We have links for compatible code readers here: floridavanman.com/links Your MAF can be tested with a volt meter as shown in this video. I suspect it will fail testing but I would not buy a replacement until I verified the MAF fails this test.
If the voltage drops relational to the engine revving it is a good sensor. The voltage shown on your meter may be different from my meter because the meters are averaging a 12volt pulse signal. As long as the voltage stays close to same at idle then drops with throttle, that's good.
hey ther tanks for this video .... i have sam problmes with my sprinter .wen its cold its no problem the car driving very nice the volt metet show me 25.6 dwon to 24.5/6 . when the car hot after 30 to 60 minits drive the r p m go not mor then 3500 and lose power. the volt meter show me 25.6 down to 24.8 and stak on 24.9 . do you think it this air flow sensor its no good ?my car did 520000 km]330000mail] tenks for your time . miro.
I think you have tested the MAF and found it good. There are many other reasons for limp home mode. Have you read the codes with a proper code reader like the AP200? We have links to it in the description to most of our videos.
04 sprinter that has lots of black smoke and no power. the van will not go above 60mph. Any thoughts? I have replaced about every sensor but the MAF, could it be this or something else. I checked all the hoses and they all seem good....thanks in advance.
@@craigholliday3907 Do you have a proper code reader? We have links for the most popular that work well with our Sprinters at floridavanman.com/links/ We have a video showing how to setup the $60 Autel AP200 czcams.com/video/1vCPcBK0R9k/video.html Codes are more clues to what is wrong with the van. Close inspection of the turbo is wise at this point. Please join our Patreon membership to support the channel and continue one-on-one troubleshooting. floridavanman.com/donate/
@@FloridaVanMan ok great I just ordered the scanner, and should have it Friday night, and I signed up for your patron account. I will text you on Saturday. Again I would be happy to pay for a FaceTime call/consult. thanks again for all that you do.
Hey, have a 2005 Sprinter. Continue to get a P0087 error. Goes into limp mode. Have replaced the low pressure fuel pump. Replaced the fuel filter. Have 70lbs fuel pressure after the fuel filter. I bought the van and was old the injectors and HP pump replaced ~1-2 years ago. Any recommendations on what to check next to find the problem?
There are sensors on the common rail that can go out, it's rare but it happens. I'm seeing conflicting information on whether the sensor can be replaced independently of the entire rail. People say it's possible on 2002-2003 vans but i haven't seen success stories on the 2004-2006 models. The MAF is another potential suspect, since it adjusts for fuel trim. Does it sound okay when it runs? Idles steady? No surging RPMs? No sound of one cylinder hitting harder than the others? Another cause of low rail pressure could be an overfuelling injector stealing all the rail pressure.
Florida Van Man runs great. Idles well. Going to do a leak back test. I’m going to check the MAF since watching your video. Thank you for the great instruction!
@@FloridaVanMan So MAF sensor is good. All numbers checked out. Thanks Drove the van to warm it up and brought it back to do the leak off with the injectors. The first cylinder has slightly less gas than the other four. Drove the van again to cause the code. On the Carsoft reader freeze frame shows that the code trips under 99.2% load, a rail pressure of 19844.7psi, and rpm 2881. is the rail PSI low compared to the load?
That sounds low for 2800 rpm in gear, but I could be wrong. Have you ever replaced the injectors on this van? Before doing that, I would try running the van directly off a healthy serving of Liqui Molly to try and clear out the fuel system/lines. It may help alleviate the symptoms but if an injector is truly bad and hogging rail pressure, it will need to be replaced.
Florida Van Man I did the leak off test yesterday and all looks good. The injectors were replaced in the last 1-2 years with Bosch injectors and a new HP fuel pump at that same time. I will try the Liquid Molly and drive under normal conditions. The code trips now only when really getting on the accelerator heavy. Thanks for the replies and thoughts!!
Looks like someone needs a graphing multimeter for christmas. Thanks for the video, very helpful, I'll start checking all the vans that come in with driveability issues.
thanks for taking the time to post these video's you are "THE MAN" when it comes to sprinter vans saving all of us diyers from taking our cars to the stealerships!
Thanks a lot for the knowledge, I own a 2005 T1n Sprinter 3500, I'm having the same problem when driving and force the speed a little bit I lose the turbo, I have to pull over and turn off and on the engine for the turbo to get back. I'm definitely learning with your videos, they are excellent, short and to the point! I appreciate that, thanks a lot.👍
Hi Luis. You actually don't need to pull over. We have a video on resetting the limp mode on-the-go. Practice the flip-flop once while parked and engine off. Your loss of turbo when accelerating is most likely a leak in the turbo hoses, broken plastic resonator, (see video for aluminum resonator) or stuck EGR (see video for cleaning EGR).
Very cool! I'm going to test my MAF on my 03 tomorrow. Had an EGR code, but disconnected MAF and EGR code went away. I might connect my Picoscope just for fun to see what the PWM looks like. Thanks for the video!
That was a very funny, perfectly fitting ending to your video. Clever! I am glad you put it in the credits. Made me laugh with you
Just to add more confusion; I saw a 2021 sprinter source discussion re: t21 recall (if performed) may require a “teach-in” after the recall so the MAF works properly. The was more things in the article that I don’t understand, but head over there if you need more info.
The ecu has to relearn.
This got me thinking when the MAF sensors were placed in different sprinters.
The intake adaptive setting will adjust themselves over the next 50 miles or so. They can get stuck, holding your EGR closed at 6% and not adapting back when parts are replaced, but this is uncommon.
Dude, your videos rock.
Excellent, Thanks.
Great video. Im learning a lot by watching. Thank you
I have an 06 3500, Turbo is not working, Had codes for MAP, MAF and Air Temp so I replaced those sensors. I also put new intercooler hoses on. I have the aluminum resonator replacement on I installed years ago as well. After all that, got a code for low boost. Checked the actuator, it was bad. Replaced it and I can tell it works by unplugging and plugging the MAF, the rod is free and moves the vane arm during testing. When we rev the engine, the actuator does not move at all. You can hear under the van it sounds like air bypassing inside the exhaust, I'm sure is explained by the vanes not being advanced in the turbo. What am I missing now? Could it be the EGR or are there any other sensors tied to the actuator???
Does the MAF sensor pass the test in this video? 1-on-1 support is a member benefit. Please help make more videos and advice possible with just 46 cents a day by join our support group at patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
Mine started acting up a couple days ago, voltage drops like your know good one. I also have another van and swapped with same results. Throwing codes 2067 and 2068 regarding mass air issue. Wondering what else is in line that would cause this 🤔
With the issue I get no turbo actuator movement and black smoke with sluggish acceleration
Voltage dropping is good, but from what to where? 2068 suggest the modulation rate is off, which would change the voltage on our volt meter significantly. If your volt meter doesn't start near the same numbers shown in video, try another meter. It could be you are getting proper response to throttle but starting with the reading outside permissible range.
@@FloridaVanMan the voltage while back probing reads around the 2.5 v and drops slightly with acceleration. This is the same on the known good van. The egr blades snap back nicely and I hear the snap when the key it turned on and off. Also if I unplug egr then i get a code for it. I noticed the intake air temp reading that would come from the mass is froze at 80c and when I unplug the good vans mass I get the same reading.
I’ve read through the comments, I watched the video, and I’m still having a bit of trouble
I bought my 2006 T1n 3500, And I had all of the fluids replaced, and had them put in a new hair air filter, after which time the engine light came on. I told them, they said everything was connected. I had a diesel mechanic check everything out the next day, they said everything was fine and that the engine code was some thing I would have to go to the dealer for. Useless. The code is P0107, I have driven it a few hundred miles since buying it, and I noticed it is starting to stall a little bit and sputter a little bit… I think it is this engine code. I’m worried about hurting the van. I’ve done the actuator test that you have here, unplugging it and plugging it back in while it’s running, I see that little arm thingy move down. The engine light was not on when I bought it. I don’t think that this sensor is bad, but for some reason I’m getting this code… I still can’t understand if it is the MAP or the MAF... I don’t really know what to do next, any suggestions? Thank you so much for your videos, they’re extremely helpful
P0107 suggests the MAP sensor has an issue. That is the little guy on top of the air filter lid. The connectors are prone to corrosion and the wires are routed in the most common areas for chaffing and getting caught in the fan. I don't have a test for this sensor, but it is a $25 part from MillionMileSprinter.com Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor is different from the boost pressure sensor behind the left headlight. The boost sensor might be worth replacing at the same time. It is also $25 part.
Im getting a charge pressure is too high on my 2005 sprinter I thought it might be the maf or the turbo actuator but the unplugging the naf moves the turbo actuator down. Basically when accelerating it hesitates sometimes so not sure where else to start looking if you have any suggestions?
Charge pressure too high is usually a torn hose or cracked turbo resonator. The system tries to compensate for lost pressure through a small leak and is unable to regulate, so a leak can often cause a high or low pressure code, or both. Look for our Turbo Resonator video and check all hoses. Tears in hoses will hide and it happens all the time, folks are sure the hoses are good but on the third check or fourth check just to be extra sure... there it is! Best to take the turbo hoses off and inspect the inside while bending them a little. Or if they look old replace them as preventative with hope of solving current issue. When replacing the boost hoses on the intake side, what we often call the elephant hose, do not replace the plastic union unless you are also replacing the boost sensor and boost pressure sensors in that plastic union. Throw the new union away and install new hoses on union with sensors installed to avoid causing oily boost leaks at the sensors. For more 1-on-1 assistance please join our support group. patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
my sprinter 2011 3.0l smokes a lot, i changed the turbo and nothing happened and i tested the voltage of the mass flow sensor and dont see any signal nor voltage.
I'm not sure 2011 uses the same technology MAF. I've used this test for 2004-2009 Sprinters. I'm sure it does not work on 2000-2003 but I don't know about 2010 and beyond.
Mine goes limp uphills. Any ideas? Changed some sensors but still nothing
Dozens of things can cause limp mode. Read codes with a compatible* code reader like AP200 or iCarsoft MBII. We have videos for setting up the meter and how to navigate the menu. Autel AP200: amzn.to/2GD04Ft
My linkage stays up when started . So I put my maf in another van and it works as it should. I think it's a wire brocken
Perhaps the sensor signal one.?
Moving your MAF to another van is NOT a valid test of anything. As shown in the first minutes of the video, a MAF can die different ways and a failed MAF will effect different vans differently. Read the voltage and stop guessing!
Great vid. Thanks!
Would love to see one on how to properly clean MAF sensor. Thanks a million...miles ;-)
I've not found any success cleaning a MAF.
@@FloridaVanMan oh, ok. Thanks. Is that a part you would only trust OEM or might there be any more economical ones that you find are reliable? Thanks
@@1ManVan I went through too many parts in recent years, buying the cheapest ones on eBay. We've always known cheap can be junk, but when I felt poor I bought cheap. I think that cost more in the long run, due to frequent replacements. I can list parts that I replaced less than a year old, through 2019, so I quit buying cheap parts and it seems to be paying-off. I don't think MAF is on that list, but I know I replaced water pump, heater valve, and EGR, each twice 2018-2020. That's just on my daily driver, so I started buying expensive parts at MillionMileSprinter trusting the quality has been vetted better than eBay & Amazon sellers.
you probably dont care but does anybody know of a method to get back into an instagram account?
I was dumb forgot the password. I would love any tricks you can give me
@Chance Trace instablaster ;)
Do you know what I should do next? When I unplug the MAF the actuator does not move. I have already preplaced the MAF & EGR. No problem is no turbo at all. Van worked previously, but van wasn't used in 6 months and now no turbo.
What year is your van? The '02-'03 USA models are vacuum activated turbo and react slowly if at all when the MAF is unplugged. With the new MAF installed do you get the voltages & changes seen in this video?
What are the codes and what code reader are you using. We have links to the best $70 Sprinter code reader in several video descriptions.
Great video as always gents! Are you able to reset adaptives with that Autel Bluetooth scanner you use? I haven't looked for this function. Thanks again!
We have Xentry DAS for deeper diagnosis and resets.
Hi great videos.
I don't suppose you know why my 05 316
Has no egr or MAF sensor. Or it doesn't look anything like can see on the net.
Thanks rich
I sure do! You're van was originally sold outside of North America so Mercedes didn't install a bunch of NAFTA trash in it. There are pros and cons to both types.
My tn1 sprinter has a maf sensor code that wont go away. Comes back even before starting the engine. The code is "2624-001 The permissible limit value for the air mass was exceeded". Its a new bosch MAF and checks okay with volt meter. I have a xentry/DAS with c3 mux. The live data shows 0 value for specified value and actual value with engine idle and off. Air filter is new and i checked for leaks as well. Any ideas? Nice video btw
Do you know if the T-21 recall has been done on the van? DON'T let anyone do that recall if you can avoid it. Does that version of DAS have an option for "Reset Intake Adaptive Settings"?
@@FloridaVanMan Hi thank you for your reply. Not sure about the recall on this van if it was done or not. I bought the c3 mux and the laptop with xentry preinstalled for this exact issue. I was hoping to find the adaptive reset but cant find it under adaptions. its version 07/2015. Its supposed to be the newest for c3 mux? or so ive read..Would a reflash from SOS fix this? thanks
@@FloridaVanMan my xentry is 07/2015 does that mean my DAS is is also 07/2015?. couldnt see reset intake adaptive settings under adaptions which is a huge bummer since thats why i bought all the equipment for this one issue.. Would having it reflashed from SOS fix this you think? Not sure if the recall was done.
@@meowler90 I'm trying to find out which version of DAS we had first. It performed the reset before that computer took a dump and somehow we ended up with a different DAS that doesn't have the option. Please join our support group for 1-on-1 assistance. Membership contributions make this channel possible. patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
I am working on a 2005 sprinter I just put new from mercades map and boost pressure sensors and it would not start till I unplugged the boost pressure sensor. Can u help? Codes were 0069 then 0106 now boost pressure sensor because I have 2 unplug it.
See reply to this question under another video, "Why is my Sprinter so slow".
Hello, I’m getting a P0101, I clear the code and comes right back when I crank it. I did the disconnect test but it seems to work backwards, if I disconnect the sensor the rod goes down. Any ideas? Voltage drop seems ok, any help would be greatly appreciated, just got this van is a 2005 2.7 and it was neglected, is only got 81k miles and I’m trying to get it back to decent shape. Thank you
P0101 is a generic code and your van did not produce that code. You need a compatible code reader. We have links at floridavanman.com/links/ and videos showing how to setup the meter correctly. Please consider joining our Patreon membership from the donate tab for one on one assistance.
T1N with MAF code. Your video on the MAF sensor said to disconnect it and you should see the lever move: mine DID. When Check Engine light came on the vehicle was running fine, NO Limp Mode or problems accelerating or taking a hill? ANY ideas? THANK YOU
Important note, this test does not work for 02 & 03 North American Sprinters. They have vacuum actuated turbo and may drop but much slower and the volt meter test doesn't work at all. If your van is 04-06 did you test with volt meter like shown? Just unplugging proves the ECM knows the MAF is still there and it didn't burn out*. That doesn't mean it responds to changes in air flow. A MAF can die a few different ways for different reasons.
THANK YOU FLVANMAN. My T1N is a 2006 does that mean the test is valid? Also, I have the two hoses that go straight from the metal lines into the fuel pump leaking at the fuel pump. Could that cause the same code?
Those fuel hoses were almost impossible to find but I did manage to find both of them. SO I'm going to wait till I get those, put them on and then test with the meter. This way there won't be any other influences in the readings. I have a new MAF sensor for it but I don't want to install it until I'm sure that is the absolute problem.
@@remyfla Yes, test is good for your van but the fuel leak won't have anything to do with MAF codes. I have a video on replacing those fuel elbows.
@@FloridaVanMan EXCELLENT vid on replacing those fuel hoses. The only thing I was wondering is why not use Mercedes hose clamps? And do YOU have to have those special pliers to apply Mercedes clamps and to remove them? THANK YOU
Hey, would these tests work for a 2003 T1N? I have a vacuum actuated boost solenoid on mine. I did the back prove and get a reading of around 1.98 V on idle and it goes UP to almost 4 volts when revved. Bad maf?
I don't have an earlier van to compare to. I know the 02-03 MAF is a similar but different part, and I assumed it works on similar voltages.
Very helpful video, thank you. I also have a 2003 T1n, and have similar results, unplugging the MAF does not move the boost control arm, (vacuum controlled) and voltage goes up from 2.08v to 2.88v when motor is revv’d. Trying to figure out if this is normal......
I also have a 2003 with erratic under boost codes. I checked my MAF today and see 2.12 v at idle and 4v at 4000 RPMs. My boost control arm moves down upon start and stays down when I unplug the MAF sensor. I thought this may indicate a bad MAF sensor based on this video until I saw these comments. Thanks for the video!
het, great video.. i have a sprinter maf sensor error p0101, the old one i messured 4,5 volt andt the new one i got (brand facet) i messure 4,7 volt. as the rpm increases the voltage goes up.. any idea whats wrong?? could i just be unlucky to get two bad maf sensors
What year van? We learned after making this video, the older MAF works differently (OM612 2002-2003). Higher voltage and increase with RPM is proper. Sorry for the confusion.
My voltage increases instead of dropping as in your vid. Is my MAF bad? All the other vids show MAF voltage increasing upon acceleration. Please clarify. Thanks
What year is your van. Since making this video we have learned the older style MAF works very differently. This test is good for 2004-2006 Sprinters and probably some newer NCV3 vans. But the older 2002 & 2003 test differently.
Sooo...if my van is stalling immediately, how do I determine if it's the MAF? Thanks
Easy way is unplug the MAF and see if the van still stalls. If it just barely gets started before turning itself off, I'm pretty sure that will be the MAF gone on permanent vacation. If the van starts with MAF unplugged but stalls as soon as you plug it in, that's a sure sign the MAF is a goner.
@@FloridaVanMan thanks a lot! It does the same thing MAF plugged in or not...
2006 dodge sprinter 2068 code, van starts fine if maf sensor unplugged but if I connect the maf sensor it dies, if I tried to start the van with sensor connected it doesn’t start.
I have replaced the sensor twice and is the same thing. Seems like the wiring is fine. I got code 2068 with maf connected and 2067 and 2068 with sensor disconnected.
Also I did a research and diagram I get says that the blue violet wire is the 5v signal wire, hope you are able to help.
Thank you!
Brown violet I meant.
Hope you can help me thank you!
I've seen many variations of wire diagrams and when the wire colors don't match what's in the van I just move on. Codes 2067 & 2068 are usually a bad MAF, so if you have replaced it twice I wonder where you are getting your parts. O'Riley's and RockAuto are almost famous for MAFs that don't fit and many Amazon sellers list the MAF as fitting 2003-2009 Sprinter. The 2003 and 2004 use completely different signaling in their MAFs that looks very similar, so you might be getting the wrong part. This is the right one, and a good one that will last. www.millionmilesprinter.com/product-page/mass-air-flow-sensor-2004-2006
I did tried 2 autozone sensors and 1 old one.
I was wondering if you have had any issues with this specific code and the problem is the computer.
I just order another one from advance oem for about 220 dollars, I will try this one if not will order the one you are telling me next.
Appreciate your time and help.
EDIT: I just looked up the pinout and realized I was testing between the 5v reference (not the ground) and the sensor signal wires. I'll do some more testing.
I get 1 volt at the MAF sensor wire when grounding the meter to the engine, but 3.9 volts when grounding the meter to the sensor ground. WHAT DOES IT MEAN?? The voltage doesn't seem to go down when revving the engine in either scenario.
Hi, having a slow purring in idle and pulsing headlights to match on my 2001 CDI 311. Also does the light pulse thing whilst driving. It's been suggested by someone that it may be an MAF fault but mine doesnt have one to the right of the air filter like yours? Really confused, so if you could point me in the right direction it would be massively appreciated. Thanks, Steve.
What country are you in? In my experience pulsing is more often fuel pressure trouble. We have videos for leak-off testing the injectors and rail.
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks! UK
great video i have a question i have multiple air codes any help is appreciated 2003 sprinter
Yes, one-on-one assistance is available from our donation links. floridavanman.com/donate/
Would a failed resonator cause a mass sensor code ?
Probably not, but a failing EGR can cause MAF codes and a failing MAF can cause EGR codes.
What's the common causes of a man circuit p0101 code?
MAF is probably most common, but the code is telling us the air flow in the boost system isn't right. Many things can cause this. EGR, hose leaks, resonator and more.
Where is the link for MAP sensor? I keep getting a P0106 code, I tried cleaning it did not help.
What are you reading that code with? Our van's vocabulary does not contain the code P0106 and doesn't have a MAP sensor. We have a boost pressure sensor not the cold-side intercooler hose and an intake air pressure sensor on top of the air filter box. Different sources will inaccurately refer to each of those as Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP). We have links to two code readers that work with our vans at floridavanman.com/links/ and a video showing how to setup the little white one.
@@FloridaVanMan I am using an Autel Maxi Diag 802 and it says PO106 (Manifold Absolute Pressure) when I read live data it idles at 14.7 p.s.i. @ 2000rpm. rises to about 17p.s.i. The 1st time this cel. ever came on it was very cold and I was running with my radiator covered in between fan and radiator. I deleted it stayed off awhile then would come back on a restart. Now it got worse and stays on all the time. Someone suggested I look for a chaffed wire in the harness behind fuel filter. I tried to clean the MAP with carb cleaner and it seems to have gotten worse. But I am just wondering am I getting normal readings from the sensor ?
@@dony.9014 14-17 psi is certainly the boost pressure on the cold side, not intake air sensor on the air filter box. Boost pressure sensor and boost temp sensor are on the plastic coupler in that cold side hose. If you cleaned the "MAF" with brake cleaner test your MAF again as this video shows. Our MAF won't withstand cleaning like an old style hot-wire MAF. Our vans use a "hot-film" technology and aerosol cleaners break the film.
So you are saying I am getting the P0106 code due to a faulty MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor as I did have that code about 2 yrs. ago and got rid of it by installing a used mass air flow sensor. So if I replace my sensor with a new one problem should go away? As I recall they are pretty expensive.
@@dony.9014 No, I'm saying you are getting P0106 because your code reader is not compatible with your van. The van's OBD cannot produce a code P0106 because that code is not in the van's library. What ever code IS ACTUALLY stored in the van's OBD is not being recognized by your incompatible code reader so we are only guessing at what the code may actually mean. it is like a big French word and our vans only speak Italian. The interpretation you are getting on that code reader might be close or might be completely out of left field. the van and the reader are not speaking the same language.
We have links for compatible code readers here: floridavanman.com/links
Your MAF can be tested with a volt meter as shown in this video. I suspect it will fail testing but I would not buy a replacement until I verified the MAF fails this test.
Hey there I just measured mine and the voltage drop to 2.41v would you say that’s a good sensor?
If the voltage drops relational to the engine revving it is a good sensor. The voltage shown on your meter may be different from my meter because the meters are averaging a 12volt pulse signal. As long as the voltage stays close to same at idle then drops with throttle, that's good.
@@FloridaVanMan Thank you. I checked everything at this point and I must have a bad ecu.
Where do you put the other end of the voltage meter when testing?
Any good group point. I started with it in the ground wire but later moved it out of my way, onto an unpainted screw under the hood.
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks. That's what I thought, but it wasn't clear in the video.
Great vid, thank you
hey ther
tanks for this video ....
i have sam problmes with my sprinter .wen its cold its no problem the car driving very nice
the volt metet show me 25.6 dwon to 24.5/6 . when the car hot after 30 to 60 minits drive the r p m go not mor then 3500 and lose power. the volt meter show me 25.6 down to 24.8 and stak on 24.9 . do you think it this air flow sensor its no good ?my car did 520000 km]330000mail]
tenks for your time .
miro.
I think you have tested the MAF and found it good. There are many other reasons for limp home mode. Have you read the codes with a proper code reader like the AP200? We have links to it in the description to most of our videos.
04 sprinter that has lots of black smoke and no power. the van will not go above 60mph. Any thoughts? I have replaced about every sensor but the MAF, could it be this or something else. I checked all the hoses and they all seem good....thanks in advance.
Black smoke is usually a boost leak and not likely MAF. Turbo resonator is a likely culprit. czcams.com/video/jKd1Kakt5ME/video.html
@@FloridaVanMan last year I put a new turbo resonator on it. The metal one you recommended …..? More thoughts please
@@FloridaVanMan I’m also happy to pay for a video/FaceTime consultation on Saturday. Or pay you to drive up the coast to savannah to fix?
@@craigholliday3907 Do you have a proper code reader? We have links for the most popular that work well with our Sprinters at floridavanman.com/links/
We have a video showing how to setup the $60 Autel AP200 czcams.com/video/1vCPcBK0R9k/video.html
Codes are more clues to what is wrong with the van. Close inspection of the turbo is wise at this point. Please join our Patreon membership to support the channel and continue one-on-one troubleshooting. floridavanman.com/donate/
@@FloridaVanMan ok great I just ordered the scanner, and should have it Friday night, and I signed up for your patron account. I will text you on Saturday. Again I would be happy to pay for a FaceTime call/consult. thanks again for all that you do.
Great info thankyou.
Thanks for watching!
Hey, have a 2005 Sprinter. Continue to get a P0087 error. Goes into limp mode. Have replaced the low pressure fuel pump. Replaced the fuel filter. Have 70lbs fuel pressure after the fuel filter. I bought the van and was old the injectors and HP pump replaced ~1-2 years ago. Any recommendations on what to check next to find the problem?
There are sensors on the common rail that can go out, it's rare but it happens. I'm seeing conflicting information on whether the sensor can be replaced independently of the entire rail. People say it's possible on 2002-2003 vans but i haven't seen success stories on the 2004-2006 models. The MAF is another potential suspect, since it adjusts for fuel trim.
Does it sound okay when it runs? Idles steady? No surging RPMs? No sound of one cylinder hitting harder than the others? Another cause of low rail pressure could be an overfuelling injector stealing all the rail pressure.
Florida Van Man runs great. Idles well. Going to do a leak back test. I’m going to check the MAF since watching your video. Thank you for the great instruction!
@@FloridaVanMan So MAF sensor is good. All numbers checked out. Thanks
Drove the van to warm it up and brought it back to do the leak off with the injectors. The first cylinder has slightly less gas than the other four. Drove the van again to cause the code. On the Carsoft reader freeze frame shows that the code trips under 99.2% load, a rail pressure of 19844.7psi, and rpm 2881. is the rail PSI low compared to the load?
That sounds low for 2800 rpm in gear, but I could be wrong. Have you ever replaced the injectors on this van? Before doing that, I would try running the van directly off a healthy serving of Liqui Molly to try and clear out the fuel system/lines. It may help alleviate the symptoms but if an injector is truly bad and hogging rail pressure, it will need to be replaced.
Florida Van Man I did the leak off test yesterday and all looks good. The injectors were replaced in the last 1-2 years with Bosch injectors and a new HP fuel pump at that same time. I will try the Liquid Molly and drive under normal conditions. The code trips now only when really getting on the accelerator heavy. Thanks for the replies and thoughts!!