No Cripple Wall Retrofits And Damage
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- čas přidán 18. 02. 2019
- Learn why seismic retrofits of homes built after 1940 are different from retrofitting homes built before 1940. These homes rarely have cripple walls and can be connected directly to the foundation with steel.
Here you will see what this steel looks like, how it is installed, and how to figure out how much steel you need. Once retrofitted, these homes withstand earthquakes better than any other type of house.
Go to our website to learn more and ask us to come look at your house.
Website
bayarearetrofit.com/
I am just as stumped as you are!
Multiply the square footage by the weight of the house. Search for "house weights" on the website. Please subscribe to the channel.
Very much appreciate your videos. I have a off-grid cabin in Eastern Washington and due to heavy snow during from Oct-Apr and how it was built since 1990, the structure has shifted and moved on each corner from 1-4 inches. I’ve extended the metal roof so the snow does not push against the side of the structure and this last year put in French drain about 3 feet deep. But my question is how can I plum this structure back to the foundation specially in the areas that it’s moved. I can send you pictures if you can massage me?
Howard, your videos are so helpful. I'm in the middle of my own retrofit, and I have an issue with some of my crawlspace vents. They're only 18" from the end of the foundation wall. This means I can't install a URFP plate using Simpson's specs, which are to place the edge of the URFP between 9" - 12" from the end of the foundation. The URFP is 10.5" wide, so if I placed the plate centered on this section of foundation, it would leave me with only 3.5" distance to the end of the foundation and 3.5" to the concrete edge of the vent. I can certainly install 8 foundation anchors elsewhere on this wall to achieve the 9,000 lbs of force resistance required per the formula you provided. But this wouldn't follow the Simpson (and LADBS) guidelines exactly. How important is it to put foundation anchors 9" - 12" at the end of a foundation wall?
Sorry I am so late in my reply. I do not know CZcams did not notify me about your comment. It won't matter. But go ahead and put in a few extra.
Great video! Just one note/question, for the problem you came across at 6:30 in the video, would a girder tie down works as well? My fear is that 2x10 bolted and strapped to the foundation would break/snap along a line above the bearing plates should the house move at 90 degrees of the red arrows, i.e., the floor joists taking half of that 2x10 with it as the move together in unison. The girder ties I am thinking of are Simpson-Tie H10S, HM9, or an like an LGT2 if the could custom make one for 1 5/8" opening. I know MiTek makes one (but it looks weak, 18-20 gauge).
I can't see how this will help much for lateral loads and you don't see anything like this in the 7 existing retrofit guidelines. Even the one published by Simpon whose planset is an attempt to sell their hardware. If you have not done so, please subscribe.
@@bayarearetrofit5814 ok, thanks, what about using engineered lumber like parallam in that 2 x 10 setup as opposed to regular lumber?
It does not matter.
My house has no sill plate and the joists rest directly on top of the foundation. I will need to use the sidewall sill plate as in min 6:14. After determining the amount of needed hardware for each side of the house, does the layout matter. Can you apply all the needed hardware in one segment along the middle of the house? Or is it best to be in segments: like some close to the corners, and some in the middle? Or does it matter as long as it is all there? On one side, I have Windows and chimney so segments might be best there. My house is about 34x40 feet.
Also about minute 7:06 plywood is used on the parallel side with the floor joists. Is that OSB? What plywood is used and what thickness?
If you have that problem it means there are no joist toe nails that would transfer forces from the entire floor into the sidewall sill plate. For that reason I would spread them out. OSB or plywood is fine so long as it is stamped "Structural 1" You want 15/32, often called half inch.
Great video! This helped me understand what I can do to retrofit my home with 1 cripple wall and 3 sides without a cripple wall.
At 6:14 in the video, you show an example where a new sill plate was added to accommodate new foundation anchors and shear transfer ties. My home will likely require this solution as well since my sub-floor sits directly above the sill plate, I don't have top plates, and I don't have end
im joists. My floor joists are on hangers and their connection to the sill plate is variable depending on which hanger you are looking at. I have 2 questions here. First, what lumber is being used for the new sill plate? It looks like a 2x8. Second, what bolt is being used for the new foundation anchor (or what would you recommend)?
Thanks so much :)
We use LVLs, not sure what that stands for but it does not have a grain the will split. Kind of weird but it has the same shear capacity as the material it is made of, usually Douglas Fir. We put Vicor behind it where it touches the concrete, not sure why except an engineer we use requires it. I don't think it is really necessary. At least I have not found any code citation that requires it and the American Wood Protection Association dies not think it is necessary. For the Foundation Anchor they are made by Simpson StrongTie and technically they want 1/2 inch by 5 1/2 epoxy bolts or Titens but we use 5 1/2 inch long wedge anchors.
Thanks Howard!
I had a couple follow up questions.
1) The shear transfer tie being used in the example at 6:14 appears to use the Simpson H10A Hurricane Tie. What fasteners are being used here? Simpson suggests using nails but it looks their SD #9 screw is used (which is Simpson's approved alternative to 10d nails).
2) The H10A has a joist slot width of 1 9/16'. Unfortunately, the width of my floor joist is 2 1/2", so I can't use the H10A. Can you suggest an alternative connector to use for a shear transfer tie? What do you think about Simpson Foundation Joist Anchor product (FJA) or H2.5AZ Hurricane Tie? The FJA looks like I would end up putting too many anchors in but the H2.5AZ might work despite the intended use being for top plate and joist connection.
Thanks Howard!
@@chrisc7465 The shear transfer tie being used in the example at 6:14 appears to use the Simpson H10A Hurricane Tie. What fasteners are being used here? Simpson suggests using nails but it looks their SD #9 screw is used (which is Simpson's approved alternative to 10d nails).
We always use nails because they are faster. I would call the Simpson 800 number and ask for engineering.
2) The H10A has a joist slot width of 1 9/16'. Unfortunately, the width of my floor joist is 2 1/2", so I can't use the H10A. Can you suggest an alternative connector to use for a shear transfer tie? What do you think about Simpson Foundation Joist Anchor product (FJA) or H2.5AZ Hurricane Tie? The FJA looks like I would end up putting too many anchors in but the H2.5AZ might work despite the intended use being for top plate and joist connection.
Don't use an FJA, look in the catalog and see what the H2.5AZ capacity is.
That is the only thing that is important, or you can fit 3/4 inch plywood blocking between the joists and nail to the top of the cripple wall or LVL.
H2.5AZ looks like a no-go as it has very poor shear capacity (assuming I'm reading the Load Tables correctly). Of the 6 load capacity columns, which should I be looking at? Simpson makes another connector, H11Z, which looks promising, since the load capacities are nearly identical to the H10A.
How do I know how many thousands of lbs my structure needs to resist. You used 16000 lbs as an example - where did you get that number?
Go to the bayarearetrofit.com website and search for "Weights". The answer is there.
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