LiPo Secrets Revealed! Do You Need to Cycle New Packs for Performance and Lifespan?
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- čas přidán 12. 06. 2024
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Great video - thanks for putting this together.
Glad it was helpful!
Well it kinda makes sense why they are suggesting it.. to use up those lipos faster! LOL
Yep, then you have to buy more!
Will you test any Povway packs? I mostly use ovonic and Povway, just curious how they stack up
I do not believe in any mumbo-jumbo, so I do *not* cycle LiPo batteries. Thanks for confirming that cycling LiPos is still BS as when I first heard about this more than a decade ago. 👍
Fair enough!
Nooo so I been strapping my lipos to my bike and riding 5 miles for no reason ?! 😂😅
I heard cycle batteries, and flashbacked to 90s! The only thing I have done with lipo battery packs is balance charge. That seems to bring some packs back in line when a cell drops voltage before others. Hope that made sense! 😊✌️
Yep, I end up balance charging every charge. But that's all you really need to do with lipos
I'm still using 4S 1300 65c turnigy graphene packs after at least 250 cycles over 6 years and I have to say they are close to their original condition. I do think the graphene batteries last really well.
I never cycled my batteries but if I do not use up the pack I do discharge them to storage mode and leave it .I had an accident and could not run them for a little over a year and they all set in storage capacity during that time . I have been using them now for 6 months and have had zero problems and they do last just as long as when I bought them new .So I am calling B.S. on cycling .
Yep, there doesn't really seem to be much of a difference from what I can see when cycling packs?
Hi Ryan. I usually only cycle my batteries once ,just before the flying season begins. At the field. I bring as many batteries as needed to fly. For example. I'll bring four batteries for four flights. That's it. At the end of the day. I'll discharge each battery to it's storage state. Having so many packs greatly reduces the amount of cycles per pack. Has worked wonderfully for me for many seasons. I am unsure what the "absolute" minimum voltage per cell I may safely discharge the pack to.
See you at the field.
That strategy will work for sure and help reduce the amount of total cycles. 👍 see you at the field!
Remember they used to say fully charge and drain a new Lithium cell phone battery, then its good to go
here is a way to check the health of a battery very fast and easy. When you put a 1.5-2+ C charge on a pack you will see the voltage spike. It will jump up sharply from its resting voltage. How much it jumps tells you everything about that battery. the better the battery the less voltage spike. and thus the less voltage drop under load. This is why you have to charge slowly because that spiked voltage will reach 4.2v early and then the voltage will rest and sink down to 4.18v or so. the slower you charge, the better the battery, the less spike and more electrons go into it.
I have not seen much if any difference when cycling LIPOs.
Have you heard that when doing speed runs, you want to run the batteries down to a lower than storage voltage (say 3.7v per cell) before charging them to get the best performance? Or that you charge them at around 0.1 C to get optimum performance?
Yes, it does depend on what is meant by performance here.
@@RCexplained by performance, I was meaning a higher top speed.
Ive never cycled a lipo in decades of using them.
Yep! And for good reason!
I try to cycle my packs once every month or two when they're not being used regularly... like now, in winter.
When you cycle Batteries how low do you need to go 3.2, 3.5 or to storage 3.8? does it matter?
Storage voltage is 3.80 per cell
Yes, i know but when cycling do you do a full charge 4.2v and do you discharge to, 3.8v or 3.5 or 3.2 ?,and back to to 4.2 for one cycle?@@dannyrivera9805Which is best ?
I like to do 2-3 cycle on the batteries in a LiPo safe/bag just to make sure there's no defects with it. If I see the cells go out of sync or resistance jump then I know there maybe an issue with the battery.
I'd say that a higher-quality charger is in order....
How come?
@@RCexplained So everyone feel's better about the readings... I've had many "branded" chargers... eg Hitec, that have gone so out of calibration very early in their life. I just don't like the inexpensive generic chargers for that reason - they're overpriced junk. Now, this one may be good - I don't know - it just reminded me of my old hitec garbage.
Thanks -
I have a wooden model boat that I want to turn into an RC boat! It weighs 600g and is 60cm long and 18cm wide and already has a propeller with a diameter of 43mm. It has a v hull. I want the bot to be able to level but it doesn't have to go super fast. I want the bot to have a range of 30m and have a battery time of at least 15 minutes!
Can someone please recommend some parts I'm completely new to the hobby!
Can you buy a pre-built Controller or do you need to Build one yourself?
Use a small outrunner with a lower Kv and run it on a 3s LiPo with at least 5000mAh. More capacity more run time.
who doesn't love batteries
If you understand battery cycle time you will not cycle your lipo batteries
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😢
I've been charging lipos for many years and have not seen any difference what you're talking about I think that people are stuck with the old Nicd mentality. I smell BS
Agree
As far as rc racers are concerned, cycling is just another tool for performance, too get that slightly reduced IR just before a run