Training Expert BUSTS Common Climbing Myth // Tom Randall of Lattice Training
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
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Tom Randall checks in on Ryan's training and offers up valuable insights that will help anyone level up their training and performance.
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I started doing some degree of hip flexibility training two/three months back, and the one big take away so far is I can bring my feet higher, noticeably so. Already a big plus afaic.
Probably not the attention you want on your climbing show channel. But I had the weirdest sense knowing your face from the Alex Honnold - Magnus clip. If it is you, you are hands down the best host I've ever watched on reality TV. Loved how straightforward you were, and the show wasn't the same after you left.
Aw, thanks for the kind words! It’s definitely easier chatting with climbers than drunk college dummies 😅. Had a blast on that show tho, and I really appreciate your note 🙌
What about stretching the fingers after hangboarding? Some people swear by this, but I have also heard about passive tension in the fingers can benefit strength. Will stretching the fingers downplay the build up of passive tension?
It is absolutely 100% clear to me that if I had 180 degree turnout of the thighs I would get my CofG so much closer to the wall, and so much more weight on my feet, that I would climb much Much MUCH harder. Especially on steep terrain.
The women in comp climbing are finding eye watering positions that reduce the load on their hands.
Flexibility is a BIG way to apply leg muscles rather than forearms to the problem.
Agreed! Been working on this a lot lately. Resting better on the wall, and climbing closer to steep walls, so so beneficial 💪
So I was not clear if the stretching that reduced performance for 20 minutes was static or dynamic stretching. Is the stretching being done holding a stretch for 30-60 seconds or just moving your joints through the full range of motion repeatedly. In my experience, a static stretch before a climbing session has a noticeably negative effects but dynamic stretching has noticeably positive effects. But I am pretty bendy anyway and I stretch often so maybe that factors in.
I believe he was referencing static stretches in this context
Would be nice to know what are different levels of hip flexibility. I have never been limited by my flexibility but after doing a lattice training assessment my 12 week program what full of flexibility.
I bet you could ask your lattice coach. They have so much data, and flexibility metrics will surely be based on your specific height so they could look at similar cases.
Maybe yeah, I found that static stretching before doing any high-intensity workout made me much more likely to get injured
I refuse to believe that stretching reduces power even for that 20 minutes. There's absolutely no way that extending your body to it's natural length makes you pull less... i just don't believe it 😂
"Stretching" focus on the eccentric phase and often on the elastic limit of tissue/material. Here micro tears occurs more and require time to repair. So doing hard stretching before you should perform would not be beneficial in that regard. Also, is the blod flow reduction if done between sets of climbing bouts, does not increase performance. If done properly in line of normal warmup and its increasing loads it can be beneficial.
Passive stretch does absolutely this. All these fitness and yoga classes where people hold position to "increase lenght" are absolutely destructive for the integrity of the soft tissus.
Active stretchs however, as well as dynamic stretchs are gold. There are many many ways to stretch correctly, just dont do it passively for the sake of your own joints...
Yeah good logic