The #1 Lesson From Climbing with Adam Ondra // Tom Randall of Lattice Training
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
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My goal this year is climbing 6C. at the start of the year i started climbibg 6B with a lot of struggle. Starting to flash them now. In love with making progress even if the steps are little
I WISH Chris Sharma would eat, sleep and live Lattice Training for a couple of years, I honestly think Sharma is the biggest underperformer currently climbing because he has this 'climbing is training' attitude holding him back and in spite of that still climbs insanely hard.
Patxi Usobiaga is or at least was his coach
Dude he's 42, he's not going to be getting heaps better.
Sharma has the most natural talent of all time imo.
"climbing is training" is not an attitude, its a valid approach. Many pros and non-pros alike benefit from this approach.
@@sebastianflynn1746 Check Eric Horst, he is more strong at 59 than at his 20s, and at 42 he is still relatively young and can gain a lot of strength and power training specifically.
I think that if the point of training is to climb harder and your training regimen works for you then screw what the “experts” think they know, you’re right based on the fact that it works for you.
This was very insightful, thank you! I've sort of been running into this unbalanced conditioning lately myself. I've never mamaged to send any 5.12 in the gym but I found a 5.12c that I find inspiring and have been working on sending it (I also admittedly think it would be funny to send 5.12c before I send 5.12a) and I've been finding that my calf muscles are actually a bit of a limiting factor because has so many long tensiony moves. (It is also interesting that calves would be such an issue on a steep route)
Tom casually in a video call looking like his hair was having an awakening is why I love this channel.
😂😂😂. Tom’s hair should have its own channel.
Makes sense what he’s saying about amateur progression. Training your arms is obviously essential but general athletic performance will correlate much better with athletic training. If your whole body is conditioned for good performance you are going to use far less energy to power your whole body; consequently, giving critical, specific muscles the energy they require and making anaerobic recovery much more efficient.
I notice how well I start climbing when I do some basic circuits and some short distance running. Trouble with it is always consistency but it does work.
Funny how the best sport climber in the world was a track athlete, his cardiovascular conditioning is probably far superior to others at his level.
usually my routine is to go bouldering twice a week for 3 hours and than i do some calistenics training twice a week for an hour when im not climbing. so i get a total of 4 days of training, two on which i do climbing specific stuff and two days on which i do full body with focus on muscle groups that dont get used by climbing the other 3 days are rest days. for flexibility i do a daily 10min morning yoga after weaking up and my results so far are looking pretty good. started 6 month ago with bouldering doing begginer problems and now im up to doing 6a-6c problems with the occasionally 7a sloper problem. progression is pretty good so far and i solved my first 7a overhang last week so im still improving. gonna start including fingerstrenght excercises with the calistenics stuff in the next month or so, at the moment crimps are still okay and usable with pinches being my weakest hold (currently trying to do some grip strength focused stuff and a lot of problems with pinches to solve that).
Can you do a more specific video about which muscle groups exactly should be trained as a part of this more wholistic focus ?
I always take a huge huge huge grain of salt with any training advice that people at the top of a sport give. They're genetic freaks who are able to dedicate their whole life to the sport. They could be doing things totally wrong and would still be incredible
when clients ask about climbers doing and advising x y or z which I have almost explicitly mentioned not to do, I often give the campus board as the counter example. this is not a device, as often used, for making anyone powerful because we know for training power we need to be moving at a certain velocity, for training contact we need to be increasing the load our fingers have to control, and for training strength we need to increase the load our muscles have to overcome... but if you are not already well developed then you move slow a short distance between bigger rungs at bodyweight... and thus climbers need to separate out and actually target those elements. we do not need to see a climber with great tendon insertion points who went through puberty climbing telling a 25+ adult that the way to develop strong fingers is mono training.
@@zacharylaschober Yeah, I've tried campus board training a bit as a relatively weak climber and it seems like the worst of all worlds. It doesn't really train fingers, lats/pull or contact strength, because I have to work very easily and the amount of training I can physically do is fairly small, without using feet.
But then you have Emil saying that it's the best of the best tool for training because he's always been able to do 135 or whatever. Not good general advice at all
All training methods should be a subjective approach. It’s good advice to see what the guys at the top do/work on. However, the progression should be way different because, as you said, it’s different for someone who has been climbing since their body was developing.
@@thenayancat8802 Zachary and myself talked about campusboard under another video (the one where lattice tests Emil), and i couldn't agree more. Campusboard is probably useful if you can do 1-3-5 on rungs 20-30mm deep. In my experience, this is rarely the case before 7c-ish route euro grade, and you should account for height (if you're quite tall, campusing on ok holds is usually a bit easier). However, it's still a pretty good tool, efficient in space, quite fun. Depends what you want to target.
Last, but not least : never take advice from the top end of any sport. It's completely random.
@@Ptitviaud1337 Yeah I am just pushing for 7a this year and I can just about do single moves on a campus board, it feels totally useless. Hangboarding on the other hand gives me good performance gains even in one or two weeks.
Yes, I've seen it especially in running, people who's first 5k time was better than most people will ever do explaining that actually sports science is wrong and you should do it their way instead...
Love your content. It helps me a lot.
This is so interesting thanks! I've been climbing 1 year and 2 months now, mostly only indoor and my progression has be through the roof I think, only bouldering x2 a week, not started 'training' yet but I plan too soon. In my Gym I wont say the grades I've hit but there are currently 4 routes I have done yet, 2 I've barely pulled on except tonight, 1 i think will go if I've got the time. But I look forward to learning more about training etc, been outdoors maybe 9/10 times, managed my first 7a down Hartland quay the other week, different ball game outside!
I say the focus should be on PLAY and FUN. After all, one is only climbing a piece of inanimate rock or plastic holds on plywood walls.
Here from the AJ pod!
@@thestruggleclimbingshow I am also a palm springs local. So hearing you name drop Tahquitz and Jtree is always awesome!
I am in my mid forty and my major issue is recovery time. I climb V4/V5, but I can't go to the gym more than 3 times per week, sometimes I have to rest 2 days after a 2 hours session, especially if I pull really hard on boulders at my limit, which is very common. It's my tendons, and my fingers. I can't climb every day, or I would probably get injured. Anyone is in my same situation? I climbed yesterday and I would love to go again today, but I can't. My muscles are ok, but my tendons need to rest a bit more.
Im 35 and pretty new to climbing. I’ve noticed my tendons and joints are definitely lagging behind my strength now, I’ve been focusing on working these areas as much as my biology allows without injury but I feel like I’m always at the verge of pushing too much. Patience is the name of the game and takes much longer for tendons than it takes for muscle. Best of luck in your quest my friend!
@@thestruggleclimbingshow thanks, I will take a look. And good luck to you too!
most climbers do not need to do more but do less better. if the concern is to develop faster, do not fret about not having greater than 3x a week frequency. if the concern is simply wanting to climb more often for the enjoyment, then have to structure weeks to assure you do not overload the fingers on day 1 of 2, and get a warming procedure in to minimize time on much easier problems and condense the session a little further. my warming/priming takes about 25min and I can get on harder projects almost immediately.
Im in my 50’s and climbed 35 years. Trust me if you are climbing 3 times a week at your age you are doing just fine. Less is more later in life. Spend the time you cannot climb on stretching, cardio, antagonistics and chilling.
I just came back to climbing from a finger injury and for sure take the rest. I didn’t because I thought I could work around the soreness/tenderness and I ended up having to completely stop climbing 4-5 weeks. The rest is just as important especially as you get older. I’d say you take the rest to work on extra curricular work for climbing. Self massage the hand and fingers. Workout all the muscle groups climbers tend to ignore etc. but definitely take the rest.
Ask GPT-4 *smartly* about *everything*; the era of the remote human coach never came, and will not ever come.
great video
The clip with Adam Ondra is obviously from Croatia where he on sighted Spomin (8c) multipitch: czcams.com/video/14E1o_F51Ew/video.html
and not "Just do it" :)
No disrespect to Tom but for me is weird to listen “Adam training is not even 9a” because how can Tom know what is a 9c workout when only 2 guys did a 9c? What if Will Bosi starts to work with Adam and lands a 9c? I am new to climbing but not new to training in general and most of the times what works for one individual doesnt work to another. Obviously there are basic stuff but look at 10 top bodybuilders, them all will have different workouts and just share the basics, look at basketball players, some barely workout at all and others hit the gym hard, it really is an individual thing at high level. They can measure performance but we might never be able to measure advance training in general besides the basic concept, for example in climbing: flexibility, mobility, finger strength, core strength and back strength, this is the basics, how do you really obtain it? It is individual in my humble opinion, might be wrong.
coming from lifting I share your thoughts. thank you for speaking up.
can you train me tom!
I think training is way overrated, it waistes energy.
Look at how good honald is. He just climbs every day.
The more time on a wall the more safe you feel.
If you pay someone to be your trainer, you don't need all the knowledge of a trainer, or else you wouldn't need a trainer in the first place.