10 things to know about ford suspension Episode 69 Manic Mechanic
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- čas přidán 30. 03. 2020
- 10 things to know about ford suspension
This week we look at 10 things that can make your stock front suspension better and make you happier. We look at Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane, Torino Ford suspension basics. We talk about caster, shock absorbers and springs. We look at things to do with your suspension to make the old Ford ride better and handle better too.
Alignment specifications:
Toe in: 1/16 inch (1.587500 mm)
Camber: 0
Caster: 2 to 3 degrees positive - Jak na to + styl
I have to agree with you when it comes to poly verses rubber bushings. I have a '64 Fairlane and back in 05 when I got my car one of the first projects was to replace broken springs and replace all the worn bushings with ploy. We run a lot of long distance trips now and during the last few years I have told anyone who will listen that I am tired of the harder ride that I achieved. Keep up the great work on your shows and stay healthy.
Hi! I just wanted to leave a comment to say thanks for all your videos. I used to own a '67 Mustang coupe years ago, and I miss the ride. I live in NYC now, where owning a classic is tough. But when I decide to move, I'm now really contemplating getting back into the hobby based on the really great videos you guys have put together on all the various tips and tricks of upgrading and restoring these cars. I've spent hours watching you guys work and I just love the effort you guys put into it. Thanks again!
We appreciate you watching!
As for spring perches, you can find the pattern online to lower the perch and back (look at mustang sites) and it changes the geometry slightly and it makes handling a lot better. I did it on my 64 Comet and it made a huge difference. Also on the early falcons, I used a later mustang idler arm and it corrected the binding and smoothed it out
I have a 1966 Mercury Comet, good to know about the roller spring swing perch. Keep up with the great info!
Thank you for another great video! Being able to correct engineering deficiencies with shims which is what GM always did is Great idea. Hopefully that should help with center feel for the steering.
Great info. I have a 70 mustang and never knew that gas shocks were not ideal. Time for another upgrade.
Just went to "GT" springs from Eaton Detroit, Monroe shocks, and a 7/8" sway bar on my 69 Mustang convertible, can't wait to get it on the road to see how it works. Previously had a "performance" suspension kit on it that had the KYB gas shocks, large sway bars, and high rate springs and it was horrible.
Great video. Thanks Jeff.
Great episode again! The best investment in my car ever has been the Koni classic adjustable shock absorbers. Previously, the car had Kyb gas shock absorbers. The difference is amazing! And I agree, cruising car does not need polyurethane bushings.
In my experience, this era of Ford on normal road conditions, camber should keep close to 0 degrees. A larger negative camper makes the car restless. Track driving is then a completely different matter.
You probably dont give a damn but does anybody know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid lost the account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Rodrigo Stetson instablaster ;)
Jeff, you forgot the most beneficial low buck change. The Shelby drop. I loved the description you did back in the episode where you and Vinny did it on the '67 Mustang. No need to go with the big drop and wedged ball joint for strictly street driving.
Agreed. This is why I watch these videos and read the comments. It's easy to be persuaded by someone who wants to sell you something that "You gotta have..." but I'd rather talk to people who have actually built cars using the various parts available.
Didn't forget, just that the Arnig Drop or Shelby Drop as it is known, is a bit more involved. I'm thinking of doing a focus piece on that one change.
@@AutoRestoMod Definitely rehash your pinned paper explanation showing what actually changes. That was the most enlightening explanation I've ever seen.
Another good video...keep it coming....p.s. wind blew so hard here, a woman had the same baby twice...
Thanks, Jeff!
Right now I'm feeling pretty good about the choices I made when selecting components for my 69 Mustang. I bought roller spring perches and didn't go overboard on the sway bar. My shock towers were in good shape so I added the Shelby drop and some gussets to strengthen them. Looks like my only "mistake" was to go KYB shocks - something I can easily update.
Not going to say that gas shocks are a mistake, just that they add spring rate and are a little more sporty than non gas shocks. I'd see how you like them before changing them out.
If you are looking for a 1" bar I would think one for an Australian Falcon / Fairlane would work. White line or Selby would make a 1" bar. So you would look for one that fits an XY Falcon perhaps.
Learned a lot on this video . Thank you.
Another great video, this was just the information I was looking for
Glad it was helpful!
Like your advice on building for "90%". Too often, we're told that "more is better, and too much is barely enough. Ditto for the remarks on gas shocks; I had seen a great improvement when using them on my Ranger pickup, and would have been tempted to repeat that on my Metal Cat (Cougar). Would not have thought about roller spring perches, but will now consider them.
Right on
1st, always good videos packed with helpful information
i have a 66 mustang that has a full street or track suspension. about 5 years of daily driving and dozens of track weekends. very compliant and trouble free.
We love the Street or Track in Cam's car.
I love that you avoid the aftermarket suspension. The prices are literally insane. Who can afford 5000 for a TCP coil over system? That’s more than the cost of my cars. Keep up the great videos. Subscribed
Thanks for the kind words, we cover both ends of the spectrum and the middle also lol.
Great channel, excellent advice, tune to your 90 percent.
Thank you kindly!
This is exactly what I needed at the moment. I’ve been looking at QA1 and other suspensions but that’s just not in the budget and I was getting frustrated. After this I may just do drop springs front and rear along with a Shelby drop and block. Maybe some traction bars and see how she eats.
The Shelby mod is really to achieve better camber change under cornering. It may lower the car a little, but that is not why they did it. Stage the changes: Shocks first, Then Shelby Control Arm Drop, then springs. Give it time between the changes.
Can’t love this video enough.
Lol thanks!
Lots of great advice in here!
Question?
I have a 67 Cougar with a 390. I just installed JBK tri y headers. It calls for the removal of power steering assembly. Obviously with a 390. Even though ive shed about 90 pounds in the engine bay. I need power steering. What are your thoughts on power rack n pinion?
Thanks for the info. I did not know that about gas shocks. I have a ‘63 falcon convertible and the front does look a bit high and I never knew why. Also, do you think a 1” front sway bar would be worth doing over stock on a weekend cruiser?
Most comments ever! People must be staying home. Very interesting video very informative I’ve been looking into updating my 66 fairlane GT 390 4spd .
Love that combo!
Great video - thanks.
1. What about Viking front coil over shocks? And, getting rid of the death coils?
2. Where can I source a rear sway bar for my 66 wagon?
3. After installing the caster shims, do you need to have it realigned. I recently had mine done and would prefer to not have that expense again.
4. Borgeson (sp) power steering?
Thanks, again. Can't wait for the next suspension video.
All coils are death coils. LOL I've never run the Viking or QA1 Coilovers But it seems like it is about the same thing as the regular set up and roller perches.
Which is better upgraded rubber or the original metal upper A arm bushings? I see AutoKrafters sells both.
Would like to hear your opinion on roller control arms. Particularly the ones Opentracker offers.
Also your thoughts on modifying the lower control arm pivot for adjustable camber on the early cars.
I put opentracker roller perches on my 70. Very noticeable ride quality. Highly recommend them. John from Opentracker is awesome.
Really like the teaching video's.
Thanks
Thanks for some excellent ideas you've given me for my 65 fairlane.
I do a lot of these cars.
The 62-65 are a much different suspension.
Geometry is way different.
62-65 has the spring directly onto the upper A arm, no spring perch pivot. None. The upper inner bushings are metal to metal, not rubber. The lower control arm is curved.
The knuckle/ tie rod arm geometry is very different.
I suggest the mid 79s Granada knuckle as the steering arm is MUCH lower than stock for improved bump steer plus you get disc brakes. Use the Granada master cylinder and brass combination valve. Grab the Granada 15/16" anti roll bar too.
BTW Ive had people drive my car and they ask what kind of rack and pinion I use. None. Factory steering rods with a ball bearing idler arm pivot.
@@hotrodray6802 thanks for the info I'm always looking for improvements on my car. Right now it's kind of point, stomp and pray. Disc brakes would be a great improvement. 👍
Fred. I also have one stock suspension 63 with a 352w and rebuilt to new.... They drive pretty well. Tires are a BIG deal. A good radial touring tire not excessively wide is best. 215/70x14 are pretty tight in front if youre lowered 1.5". Remember they had 7.00x13 new.
BTW my personal driver is a 63 with 90 Must GT 5.0 HO full fuelie T5 etc.
+- 13,000 mi per year
Jeff,
1. What are the parts numbers for the QA 1 REAR shocks for Fairlane. Can only find "universal" shocks??
2. Have you seen noticable benefit of using subframe connectors?
3. Another way to strengthen the front shock towers is to weld the front crossmember braces to the tower where they turn up and overlap the tower. When I swapped in the 460 into my 68 Torino, I had to make that weld all the way around to ensure it could handle the weight. Apparently, big block cars have this extended weld from the factory.
4. I hope to see a Godzilla motor in the wagon SOON!
Call Eaton Detroit Spring and ask for the Viking shocks for a '66 Ranchero. Sorry, I don't have the part number here.
I think that Subframe connectors are a good thing on cars that are seeing hard driving. But on a street car that is going to a cruise in...not a lot of sugar for your nickle there.
I'll have to look into that Fairlane cross member deal. If we pull the Cleveland I might go in and get that done.
Not likely to see more than the Cleveland in that car. It just runs too good as it is.
@@AutoRestoMod What about export braces? They've got to help suspension, because they're keeping the front of the car square under torque. Have you heard anyone making an export brace for Fairlane family?
Great vid but I’ve looked at the vid with mike on leaf springs and can’t get a straight answer at DES on how to measure leaf springs so I don’t alter ride height. Maybe you can do a vid on how to measure existing leg springs to maintained present ride height... thumbs up in this video!!!!
Mike and I did a video on measuring leaf springs to maintain ride height: czcams.com/video/Gz1FE4QaqZU/video.html
The early Falcons through '62 had bronze bushed spring perches. I had a set but lost them in a move.
That's right, Not really a true roller, but operationally close.
Depending on the application. A rear sway bar isn't going to help you for a DD.
A LOT of auto x cars driven on the street will remove an end-link in the rear. A rear sway bar makes the car more predictable on where/when it's going to break lose.
Agree 100% on running rubber in most cases.
I know all about trying to run a set of KYB shocks and a 620 coil on a 67 fastback. With a 302 and 5spd. It bounced all over the place.
Great video. Lots of good information. Thanks.
I have purchased some urethane bushings for my leaf spring eyes. This is my '62 F100....not a performance build. Is this going to make my ride too harsh?
It will stiffen up the ride. Gas shocks will too. On a '62 F100...you won't be able to tell cause it rides rough anyway. LOL
Calvert Racing sells good non gas shock for these cars. I'm running them in my 62 Falcon ,302 engine V8 suspension.
Thanks for this episode. I actually have the gas shocks on the front of my mustang (69) and the front end is high. The previous owner installed the V8 springs which I don't like as well. My plan is to replace all the components on the front because I also have the popping sound when I turn. Are the 250 L6 springs bigger or smaller than the small block springs? I have the 250 L6.
They are a lighter spring. Give Eaton Detroit Spring (313) 963-3839 a call and they can set you up.
I have a 1965 Mustang that has upper and lower tubular control arms the upper have the Shelby drop I have also installed adjustable strut rods roller spring perches lowering springs bump steer outer tierod ends and I'm currently looking at the Shelby pitman arm and roller bearing idler arm
That should handle really well!
Nice job on the video!!
Thanks!
u didnt put alignment specs in the description like u said u would! , i cant believe u didnt mention the shelby drop modification. But this video is most helpful and thank you for sharing
They are there now, I had to find the specs. The file was not where I thought I'd put it.
I am having so much trouble getting info on the early falcon 60-62 ( some 63 ). looking to put a 302 in the falcon w/ T5 w/ explorer rear axle. I know it will fit, but the front ends are running for 6 cylinders. But what UCA,LCA, spring, and any mods that are needed is there a video for this for V8 upgrades I did see the tube for the engine support w/ratchet straps love it.
We will be doing a full V8 conversion on our 1965Not sure that there are differences. I'd contact Auto Krafters and ask if they have a kit available for V8 conversion on the earlier cars.
What episode did you cover the wheel and tire combo in the Fairlane?
czcams.com/video/eyPa0Yc2SWs/video.html
Thanks... I hope you go further with the f100
yep
We will.
Does the 3/8 shim trick for castor apply to a 64 fairlane. Love your channel
It should. Thanks for the kind words.
Thank you Jeff. Any opinion on quality between the QA1 and Viking? On the Shelby drop question does it really help the 1967 up cars?
FYI I did the shelby drop on my 67. I heard it was just going to drop the ride height about 1/2 an inch and it did look like that before I had it aligned. After I had it aligned to the specs provided with the template the fenders were on the tires.
I have both on the wagon and it seems happy enough--company rivalry aside.The Shelby drop is to correct a camber deficiency that the stock suspension had from the factory. While the 1 inch drop (what is typical) does help, the 1 1/8 drop is where the magic happens. BUT it will require a more expensive upper ball joint kit that shims the UCA. I might revisit the Shelby drop soon in a video.
Galaxie too please !!! Seriously want to buy a rack n pinion for the 68
A properly rebuilt stock suspension)steering with a ball bearing idler arm pivot and good touring tires works great for minimal $.
Avoid Radial TAs. They suck for handling. Every car ive put them on worms all over the road. We wint run them 8f they were free.
Ive had excellent service/handling from Tiger Paw AWP II. Reasonable $$.
Would like to see your opinion on the kits that delete the shock towers
We'll be doing a video on all of the aftermarket stuff soon!
Hi. I have been going over the steering, and front suspension on my 68 Mustang coupe recently and decided to swap out my lower control arms with Scott Drake premium units. I am dismayed to find that they will not accept grease via the fitted zirk fittings. It just spews out of the ball joint mounting flange under the arm, with none going into the rubber boot. My supplier tells me that they are greased from the factory but that doesn’t answer they are fitted with a grease nipple that won’t supply grease to the joint! I wonder if you have struck this problem, or am I missing something here?
They are greased as far as I know.
I want my 1970 Ford Torino GT to handle performance driving as in a driving course at Barbers Motorsport or Roebling Roads. What Suspencion kit do you recommend for a Torino that can handle corners.
Thanks
My personal favorite is the RRS Suspension. They have a ton of stuff to help the 1970 Torino. www.rrs-usa.com
Great info Jeff, THANK YOU!! So Ford less better idea, 1963/64 Galaxies front suspension. I have been looking for a cure to my 1964 Galaxie offset bushings. Have you heard, scene know of anything to replace, upgrade that horribly handling mess other than removing it all together and replacing with, I think you called expensive jewelry.... But my 1966 Mustang thanks you for the info, I will be looking forward to next weeks discussion, QA1 has a new affordable coil over option I really like.
Theres was kit for those front bushings. Hunt around. I bet its still available.
We're researching front end stuff for the Galaxies now.
Hey Jeff I have a 1970 cougar convert with air I'd like to make a few changes ex: roller spring perches
shelby drop, adj strut rods ,
and I'd like lower the front 1.5 inches. it currently has rebuilt stock suspension with gas shocks do you think going back to hydraulic shocks will give me the desired effect or will I need to change the springs ..lastly if I go hydraulic shocks in the front can I leave the gas in the rear or ? thanks I watch way too many of your videos however they are great....I'm thinking the shocks may allow the car to sit down as the front is a tad high .....the suspension has been in plenty long to allow it to settle...BLAH BLAH ...Thanks
I'd be careful on lowering the '70 Cougar too much, interference with the fender tops can be an issue. Honestly the shocks and the roller perch might give you everything you need.
@@AutoRestoMod Awesome Thanks Jeff
love your stuff ,I've seen your stuff since the mustang monthly days.keep up the good work
Good luck on your subs Jeffro. My family added to your quest. Do you remember how much money 💰 you paid for the B&B power steering. I have a manual 1968 Mustang. Thanks Bubba. Steve
Back then it was around 1500 bucks for all the parts to do and all the parts to do in original power steering. Probably gonna be more now.
How do you feel about “modified” stock like Opentracker racing?
I LOVE Opentracker. Super nice people and a great product.
My wife inherited her dads 65 mustang and there are 215 70 14 tires on american racing wheels and I am having trouble with tire rubbing the fender, so I bought the KYB gas a shocks and the leaf springs are on adjustable shackles and I raised the rear end. I still need to install the rear shocks but replaced the fronts as they were shot and the rear already has new leafs and hydraulic kyb's. I have noticed that the ps rear that is rubbing the fender has a ride height that is a 1/2 in lower than ds. Can the shock/leaf spring mount cause this? I did buy some new konig 15x7 in wheels and was planning to go with a 195 tire to hopefully provide a solution..what are your thoughts? Thanks and I am enjoying the channel.
I would contact the company that you bought the springs from and see if they will help you with a replacement. Also, check the mounting and make sure that the rear axle is centered on the spring pins correctly. The wheels on a Ford should be equal distant from the inner fenders.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks for the info!
Caster and toe mentioned at 11:05 is not in the description.
Is now.
Ruben Sidranski salt is bad for your health and your car.
@@Shitbird3249 no salt! I've been a fan and subscriber from near the beginning. It was a human over-site and Jeff fixed it in the description and he responded as such.
I called eton springs the lady on the phone said they don't make front springs for 64-66 thunderbird but didn't know why! By any chance do you know if their is something odd about ford thunderbird? How ever they do make everything for the rear of the thunderbird!
Not sure. I'd hit the Thunderbird Facebook groups and ask the question.
Should be close to the same as the galaxies.
Does this info apply to 64, 65, 66 TBirds? Thanks for the info.
Sorry, no, outside of the shock info. I have been asked to do one on the big cars (who share suspension with the T-Birds) and I will be researching that.
I'm planning on changing my steering box on my 67
The steering box is long shaft
If I switch the steering box to rag joint Style would I be able to use a 68 or 69 steering column?
Im pretty sure a 68 setup is a direct swap, box/column
Yes. I'd stay with the '68 to be sure though. Ford was WAY fond of making annoying little changes between years.
I enjoy the video, would like to see more on a 63 Merc. Comet rag top. Since my wife bought one. It has 170 C.I. & 3 SPD.. THANKS LOU.M. RETIED F.D.N.Y. AUTO.MECH.
We'll be doing a 1964 Falcon soon. It shares a good bit of stuff with the Comet.
I just want to point out that gas shocks don’t add spring rate. They add a lifting force.
A gas shock is contributing the same lifting force regardless of how much you compress it.
In contrast, a 500# spring compressed one inch has 500# of force. Compressed 2 inches it’s 1000#.
A gas shock may have 50# of lifting force, but that stays the same whether it’s compressing 1/4” or 3”.
So yes, it will make the ride firmer and yes it will raise the ride height.
But it will not affect handling balance the way a stiffer spring will.
I guess I mis-spoke. Lifting force. I'll remember that.
I think 351 C large dot are open chamber, Small dot are closed chamber. Beside the dots will be a 4, except BOSS.
We're still not sure about the methodology at Ford on the dot meaning.
The suspension of a ford ltd 79 will be in a falcon 68?
Nope. Two different car models.
Always interesting even though I'll probably never have an old car to work on. I have to admit for a few minutes there I was mainly focused on trying to read the sign on the refrigerator.
The kids were stealing Cokes. I had to explain that those weren't for everyone, only the Assitant Director.
Would you do this for the full size like the Galaxie and LTD?
I can try Jack, it is kind of out of my wheel house. I will have to contact my core experts on the big cars.
@@AutoRestoMod Thank you. I have a 1972 Ford LTD that I have done alot of work to. All suspension, steering, and brakes have been replaced by it is making alot of power now and I'm planning to revisit the suspension and brakes.
You didn’t talk about camber. Wouldn’t the shims change camber not caster?
Shims can change either Camber (equal amount of shims on both pivot bolts) or caster (more shims on the front or rear bolts of the a-arms).
I think I am going to do a video on what the different suspension geometry things are and how they effect handling. But I will have to do that a bit down the road, I need to study up on it again as I am a bit rusty.
biggest issue i keep hearing not just with ford is people buy a classic car with drum brakes convert it to disc for "safety" then oversize wheels on to fit the caliper. drivability goes out the window not to mention putting radials on cars engineered for soft polyester. had a classmate torched out the shock towers '67 mustang coupe to fit a 460 with headers, car made wide turns and parallel parking was a no go
I like my drums on my 67 Cougar. Properly adjusted but not a lot of mileage
I like my drums on my '65 Galaxie. Years ago l "upgraded" to '70 Galaxie front disks, no change in stopping ability. The '70 was also a heaver car.
What about the Shelby drop mod?
We've done a video on that. But the Shelby Drop is pretty involved and for most instances it doesn't profit much unless you are driving really hard.
Caster and toe? Alignment specs?
Generally ive found
Zero camber
2 to 3 caster
1/16 total toe.
Shoot for the most caster you can get with zero camber. Thats the reason Jeff put the caster shims in.
What happened to the Torino future project?
We're waiting for spring of 2021 to go haul it home.
Apologies for reviving an old thread where not a lot of people will probably see it, but this seems like a pretty good place. What makes a better-driving Mustang for mixing in modern traffic and leaning it into the back roads hard enough to have a little fun, the pre-1974 car of the Fox body? I legitimately can't get enough decent information on this from the internet. EVERYONE loves the first-gen Mustang and there's huge suspension support for it. As for the Fox body, "the internet" agrees their handling is trash compared to the S550 or S197 cars. Well, duh. That's sort of a no brainer. If you're buying a 30-35 year old car you should expect that. To me that's the wrong comparison. The right comparison should be to other cars which can qualify for "classic car" or "antique" plates where available.
The Fox is a good one for performance. Tons of aftermarket support. But the classics are way prettier.
@@AutoRestoMod right and right. Thanks.
Have any Torino episodes been posted? Thank you
Right now we have 38 up. Here is the playlist: czcams.com/play/PL9zPeh4WymNgkY_IiyVLs-FBvhkvjbrV0.html
@@AutoRestoMod Awesome, Thank you!
But the 10% cams sound so cool lol.
Can you do a Shelby drop in a 1970 Maverick
Yes.
@@AutoRestoMod thank you
Herb Adams said soft springs and big bars. As for the Ford strut rod suspension... It's an abomination of a suspension with no caster lots of unsprung weight and massive geometry issues.
There are so many aftermarket units to choose from that it takes allot to compare them. My favorite for price and geometry fixing balance is the CPP lower control arm kit. It gives you a real lower control arm and fixes the caster change issue. Not the fanciest but fixes several issues for a somewhat fair price.
It will be tricky, But I think I have some ideas on the whys of doing aftermarket.
@@AutoRestoMod It's a tough subject. So many options out there and reasons to do it. Also the die hard Mustang guys hate any kind of update on a Mustang and will take that fight to their death to prove that the factory stuff was the best thing since sliced bread.
And Cougars!
Yeah, only have so much room in the headline and my memory. I Love Cougars, have owned six or seven.
BUT WHAT ABOUT THE STARLINER?
SEE......! GOT YA!
Hmmmm Starliner!!
No mention of Cougars
Beat me to it.
Fraternal siblings
Well, it would have sounded like this: Mustang, Cougar, Fairlane, Torino, Comet, Montego, Maverick, Comet...wheew, I'm tire just typing it. =)
For a old Fairlane with original saggy springs, probably 1 1/2" low, gas shocks are great. I've had a set of uhhh(three letter brand) on my '69 Cobra since '92-ish? Anyway not once in this time have I said "ugghh should have bought something else". Admittedly after almost 30 years the gas may be long gone, still they show no signs of leakage. I like the stance so I ain't messin' with them..
Dad always said, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Amazing what pop learned after the kid(s) grew up.
Anyway if I did crawl into fastback trunk to change rear shocks, wife would have to call 911 to get me out.
and the f100?
Well, maybe. I'm still playing with the stock suspension on it. It is one place where I am a little more lenient on suspension.. But like the Galaxies, I have not done much to these. I'd look to what Ford did with the 1993 Lightning. That was an I-Beam truck and handled really well.
Nice. I'm stay tunned :) lovely project :D
I was gonna get a coke out of the fridge but it's not Saturday.😖
Not if you aren't crew bub. HAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHA
Really making sure no one drinks those cokes.
HAHAHAHAHA it has been a REAL issue. We try and keep the young ones out of the caffeine and too much sugar. The company buys those for Andrew the Assistant Director (perks!) not the camera crew who are kids...and get WIRED when they drink them.
I’m glad that you finally mentioned what the problem is with gas shocks. But isn’t that more a problem with shock selection than the fact it’s gas? Saying Ford didn’t design it for gas shocks is pretty weak. Following that logic, better lose those big wheel low profile radials, Ford didn’t design for those either. Break out the wide ovals baby!
I should clarify: Ford didn't design the springs for the gas shocks. If you order a spring rate that is factory, you will be adding ride height and rate to the springs due to the gas shocks. I've seen it on the Fairlane. Gas shocks were on it when I bought it. Took those off for a set of QA1's and the nose dropped about 3/4 inch (your ride height may vary).
Cougar???
Same as Mustang, I jut broke it down to the Ford stuff because the Mercs were identical (accept for the 1967 Cougar front suspension) and it is tough to go through every one of the models Ford and Mercury had.
@@AutoRestoMod so what would be a suggestion for the67 cougar? Been thinking about tearing into the cracked bushing in the front end. Replaced springs and shocks( gas but didn't know) and looking at improving her road drivability. I know neoprene is harsher so rubber and roller spring mounts. Dont think I want adjustable suspension as I'm just looking for a driver that I can use fairly well. I am seriously considering a rack and pinion
You can change out the suspension for the '68 stuff...only because the 67 uses a different strut rod set up. I'd go with a set of stock strut rods and factory bushings. All your other ideas are good, rollerized stock components etc. 1 inch front bar, 3/4 inch rear, new rear leafs. If you have any more questions, feel free to contact me at jford@autorestomod.com.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks man. Know your busy with the channel. Appreciate the response and did not know about the roller spring mounts. Do you know who carries them? Just trying to get the old girl to have a nice ride. It was scary the first times I took her on the highway!!!
Never too busy to help! Open tracker Racing has them: opentrackerracing.com/