Isn't it amazing? It almost doesn't seem real it's so ridiculously well designed, manufactured, packaged, and priced...That's why I was saying in the video, "Sweden - look out!"
I have the Ember as well. What a fantastic knife and an even better value! I have 3 of them now, with another in the mail heading my way! The value is crazy.
Its value cannot be underestimated, and I can easily see getting more than one of them - I also can't think of a better blade to leave in a car - can light a fire if stranded, pry with it, skin a rabbit, hammer with the pommel...a guaranteed all-time great.
Agreed - This knife is still the bar by which I measure value in bushcrafting blades of this size...and two years a half-dozen blades later, the Ember still wins. Thanks for stropping by to check it out and comment! ✌️ 👊
Absolutely! The Lynx with the beautiful orange handle was the original one I wanted, but they were out, so I grabbed the Ember. Thanks for stropping in!
@@MitchBollig I have modded it a bit now, took the blade down so that it's still a sabre grind but there are no definite lines on it and took the finger guard off as well as the scraper at the end of the handle, I also toned down the jimping on the spine. I don't think I would have modded a knife twice the price though! The thing about a budget friendly knife is that you can risk changing it, totally feels okay about using it, it doesn't become a ''closet-queen'' - not that I collect knives anyway.
Thanx for the review! Joker knives are very high on my shopping list for new knives! Cheers from a fellow knife enthusiast, youtuber from a village of Fiskars, Finland!
You are most welcome! Thanks for stropping by to check it out and comment - I shall check out your channel! I really love Joker knives - and I even found out they do some of the manufacturing for Casstrom Knives of Sweden. I have a Fiskars axe I will be reviewing sometime in the next year or so - I love it...it is how I learned to sharpen with a hockey puck stone.
@@MitchBollig cool, Its almost hard not to have lods of Fiskars products in the garden here, lol. Good company, though tad expensive also to be honest. But yeah, they're kind of important also in the history of finnish knife making. Peltonen Sissipuukko m95 is still forged by the village blacksmith, here which I do find I kind of cool. Cheers!
Ooh...I just checked out the Hablis (a new one to me). Looks like a great all around camping knife, including wood and food processing. Are they made in Georgia? Thanks for stropping by to share!
@@MitchBollig yes, they are heavy and designed specifically for wood processing. Some people change the grind angle to make it a true Scandi-edged chopper.
All new knives, have to be sharpened at least 2-3 times, to remove the fatigued steel that the fast belts on factories create. Most of the knives, probably need a reprofiling to and this is a great example. (That chip you got on the edge, the hollow edge bevel) I sharpen knives for living since the 90's On 1996 I also got my first degree in Chemistry/Metallurgy, just because of my passion about knives. I'm not advertising myself, I just mentioned those, because when I try to explain to people how knives work, how they should be maintained etc, most even though they don't have the knowledge nore the experience, attack me like if I was saying something baf about their mother. This knife, since you use your knives as they are not knives ( trying to hammer it on a can for example as you mentioned) it needs to be reprofile to a proper slightly convexed edge bevel and not hollow that it is now. You also have to get rid of the burnt steel, which it takes at least 2-3 proper sharpening sessions. Cheaper Moras, are perfect for learning how to properly sharpen a scandi edge.You should all have taken advantage of that, It's not easier as most people say, because you have to remove way more steel than any other kind of grind. Only thing easier with Scandies, is the fact that you can find the proper angle easier. However in this case, you have to work the side that is off more, to bring the edge in the middle. Sharpening/honing/reprofiling is a skill that takes many years and a lot of training to master it, it;s not a talent, it's 70% experience, 20% knowledge and 10% tools. Keep 'em sharp and stay safe!!!
A very thorough explanation from someone with obviously a lot of experience. Though I am familiar with the burnt/fatigued edges, I'm just normally too short on time and/or lazy to do the right and proper thing and I'm gonna judge a blade for the way they send it. I appreciate you stropping by to share!
@@MitchBollig You welcome! I guessed that, from everything you said no the video! I mainly did it for people who search videos and comments for info about knives. Same goes for the rest of this comment! 90% of the Factory edges are not edges, they are just unfinished bevels, that help you establish a proper edge. Byadding a proper edge on a knife, you can make it cut and slice 3 to 4 times better, will have 3 times longer edge retention as also it will provide the same amount upgrade, on edge stability (no chips no more rolls on the edge.) and that's not even all, words can't describe! There is no point, to spend that much money for a knife, and not puting a proper edge on it. It's like driving a Ferrari with just thin spare tyres and instead of proper oil in the engine, having used the oil you use for cooking. PS Many people, misjudge a lot of knives, for either their poor edge retention, or because their edges chip easily etc, when in reality, it's 100% users error and not the knife's.
@@norseman1137 If you mean, what should you do, when you get a new knife, then the answer is Reprofile it! : Use your low grit stone (200 to 400) sharpen the edge bevels evenly and fix any potential anomalies (like uneven edge bevel).The edge must look the same on both sides. Then advance on medium grit stone (1000 grit) and do the same passes on both sides. (You should double the ammount of passes, to remove the scratches the low grit left behind) Then you advance to your polishing stones (3000 grit) where you have to triple the ammount of passes! After that, you check if any burr is left, you strop (stropping on newspaper can make the edge sharper than a scalpel!) PS: Convexing the edge bevel slightly, will upgrade the overall performance. (more edge stability, cuts better, cut's longer) PS 2: That's how you prepare a hunting, bushcraft, or any kind of outdoors knife, to be used for the first time. You don't use it with the factory edge.
small tip you can put some stobing agent the inside of your dangler and you basicly got a small leather strobe with you just make sure you are not cutting into it. It works realy well and extends the sharpening intervals by a lot
Beautiful looking knife. Almost too beautiful to bang around with out in the woods. For that, get a cheapo Mora. Get two. Or four. Still spending less. I think a lot of these knives are for collectors.
As one of the first higher-end blades down my fixed-blade journey, I felt the same way - I just couldn't hit the back of it with a hammer like I do my Moras...but I've become a bit more of a beater of knives on even great looking ones like these. It's kind of a part of the functional art viewpoint. Thanks for stropping by to check it out and comment! 👊✌
Scandi grinds can be a mofo to reprofile the first time. I am sad to say that I only have one joker. I think it's an ember, maybe not. Looks just like yours only mine is in Bohler K720. I love it. Tough as nails.
I can't even imagine trying to do a full reprofile on a scandi (certainly not without an electric belt sander) - sandpaper and a flat surface have always worked for me to maintain (you might check out the first couple minutes of my Casstrom Lars Falt video where I show how I restore order to a seasonally-beaten-up blade). Fret not about lack of multiple Jokers - I only have the one in this video, and it is nearly perfect. I haven't tried K720, but my guess is it's gonna be similar in performance to Sleipner, which I really love - again see my Lars Falt vid. Thanks for stropping in to check it out and comment! 🤜🤛
I DONT NEED IT.I DONT NEED IT. I. NEEEEED. IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIT. seriously i want the nessmuk so bad, its not a matter of it, but when...... when i wont be able to resist the call anymore lol. joker nessmuk flat ground and the kephart bk62 are probably next on the list
Most welcome. This one is a fantastic value - and they just didn't make a single serious error. I held out so long from doing this review because I didn't want to "move on to the next knife" Thanks for stropping in to comment!
@@MitchBollig, I must really like it, cause I went to bookmark it on my computer and put it on the longing list of wants, and already had it bookmarked. 😀
Just one of the two pair of leather gloves my dad got me like 20 years ago. I literally can't find a name brand on them, but they have some seam tears, a couple well-placed holes, and a lot of finger forming. If in doubt...pay the extra and get real leather.
I really dont like Garberg, it just ruins my hand, hotspots everywhere. Joker Campero flatgrind and Joker Trampero flatgrind, those are my favourites. I have Nordico scandigrind and ember scandigrind also, but uses the campero and trampero most often. Joker Ember is a wonderfull knife, cool version with micarta you went and got 👍🏻 For the price, nothing beats Joker. Nothing. Joker not always perfect, but mora is much much worse. And yes I know the difference between handmade and factory. But still, moras getting bad. Hurra Joker, keep it up Btw, shoutout to you and your ego for saying 'medium to large hands', exactly, like most guys. A lot of knife reviews its been told to you that they have XXL hands. Yea right. Ever met a guy with XXL hands? Then you would know what big hands are. Us size 10-11-12 users, thats not BIG hands. Just normal man hands.
Thanks for your thoughtful comments - really appreciate it when I get a lot to ponder in comments. Regarding hand size, I have tried 3 different brands of latex gloves, and the Med are a wee bit small and the Large have a bit of leg-room so to speak, so that's where I come up as you say with "regular guy hands" :-). Though I love my Mora (Garberg, Companion, Eldris, Robust), it is tough to argue with the value of Joker in Spain - they just don't turn out any real fails (like you said - not perfect, but no fails for the price). I think LT Wright in the USA is probably the only maker I've found who combines the value and quality *every* time. Thanks for stropping by! ✌
@@MitchBollig LT Wright starts at double the price of a joker at least here in Europe. And thats if you can get one.. I dont think we have LT Wright in Europe anymore..
Not often...but I've had to before with my Mora to open a can of food and a proper sized log wasn't readily available - we were hungry! Thanks for asking. ✌️ 🤙
Thank you very much...I was afraid to be lumped in with one of those "professional knife review" channels, so I sabotaged some of my footage and resorted to using a cell phone and Microsoft Video Editor to "keep it real". Glad it worked 😉. Thanks for stropping by to check it out and comment!
I just got my ember today. The quality assurance is 100%. Words can't describe. Every detail of this knife is perfect. And it is scary sharp.
Isn't it amazing? It almost doesn't seem real it's so ridiculously well designed, manufactured, packaged, and priced...That's why I was saying in the video, "Sweden - look out!"
I have the Ember as well. What a fantastic knife and an even better value! I have 3 of them now, with another in the mail heading my way! The value is crazy.
Its value cannot be underestimated, and I can easily see getting more than one of them - I also can't think of a better blade to leave in a car - can light a fire if stranded, pry with it, skin a rabbit, hammer with the pommel...a guaranteed all-time great.
I have an Ember, along with 3 other Joker knives. They are fantastic knives.
Yes sir! Look out for Spain! They are bringing full game. Thanks for stroppin by to check it out! 👊 ✌️
Purchased a Joker Ember 9 months ago. Absolutely a fabulous knife for the value.
Agreed - This knife is still the bar by which I measure value in bushcrafting blades of this size...and two years a half-dozen blades later, the Ember still wins. Thanks for stropping by to check it out and comment! ✌️ 👊
Joker knives are great value and well worth looking into. I have the Lynx and really like it.
Absolutely! The Lynx with the beautiful orange handle was the original one I wanted, but they were out, so I grabbed the Ember. Thanks for stropping in!
@@MitchBollig I have modded it a bit now, took the blade down so that it's still a sabre grind but there are no definite lines on it and took the finger guard off as well as the scraper at the end of the handle, I also toned down the jimping on the spine. I don't think I would have modded a knife twice the price though! The thing about a budget friendly knife is that you can risk changing it, totally feels okay about using it, it doesn't become a ''closet-queen'' - not that I collect knives anyway.
Thanx for the review! Joker knives are very high on my shopping list for new knives! Cheers from a fellow knife enthusiast, youtuber from a village of Fiskars, Finland!
You are most welcome! Thanks for stropping by to check it out and comment - I shall check out your channel! I really love Joker knives - and I even found out they do some of the manufacturing for Casstrom Knives of Sweden. I have a Fiskars axe I will be reviewing sometime in the next year or so - I love it...it is how I learned to sharpen with a hockey puck stone.
@@MitchBollig cool, Its almost hard not to have lods of Fiskars products in the garden here, lol. Good company, though tad expensive also to be honest. But yeah, they're kind of important also in the history of finnish knife making. Peltonen Sissipuukko m95 is still forged by the village blacksmith, here which I do find I kind of cool. Cheers!
I like the SS Garberg but also carry a Hablis Bush Tool for wood processing. These joker knives look like a great value for its quality.
Ooh...I just checked out the Hablis (a new one to me). Looks like a great all around camping knife, including wood and food processing. Are they made in Georgia? Thanks for stropping by to share!
@@MitchBollig yes, they are heavy and designed specifically for wood processing. Some people change the grind angle to make it a true Scandi-edged chopper.
I will definitely keep it on my fixed blade radar. Thanks again!
Joker knives are really great. I have several of them and all great!
I whole heartedly agree - they are awesome! Thanks for stroppin by!
@@MitchBollig YW. ;)
I have a Nessmuk and Kephart Joker knife, very happy.
Very knice! Is that Kephart the Campero or Trempero (or another one - their specs appear similar)? Thanks for stropping by to check it out! 👊
All new knives, have to be sharpened at least 2-3 times, to remove the fatigued steel that the fast belts on factories create. Most of the knives, probably need a reprofiling to and this is a great example. (That chip you got on the edge, the hollow edge bevel)
I sharpen knives for living since the 90's On 1996 I also got my first degree in Chemistry/Metallurgy, just because of my passion about knives.
I'm not advertising myself, I just mentioned those, because when I try to explain to people how knives work, how they should be maintained etc, most even though they don't have the knowledge nore the experience, attack me like if I was saying something baf about their mother.
This knife, since you use your knives as they are not knives ( trying to hammer it on a can for example as you mentioned) it needs to be reprofile to a proper slightly convexed edge bevel and not hollow that it is now. You also have to get rid of the burnt steel, which it takes at least 2-3 proper sharpening sessions.
Cheaper Moras, are perfect for learning how to properly sharpen a scandi edge.You should all have taken advantage of that,
It's not easier as most people say, because you have to remove way more steel than any other kind of grind. Only thing easier with Scandies, is the fact that you can find the proper angle easier. However in this case, you have to work the side that is off more, to bring the edge in the middle.
Sharpening/honing/reprofiling is a skill that takes many years and a lot of training to master it, it;s not a talent, it's 70% experience, 20% knowledge and 10% tools.
Keep 'em sharp and stay safe!!!
A very thorough explanation from someone with obviously a lot of experience. Though I am familiar with the burnt/fatigued edges, I'm just normally too short on time and/or lazy to do the right and proper thing and I'm gonna judge a blade for the way they send it. I appreciate you stropping by to share!
@@MitchBollig You welcome! I guessed that, from everything you said no the video! I mainly did it for people who search videos and comments for info about knives. Same goes for the rest of this comment!
90% of the Factory edges are not edges, they are just unfinished bevels, that help you establish a proper edge.
Byadding a proper edge on a knife, you can make it cut and slice 3 to 4 times better, will have 3 times longer edge retention as also it will provide the same amount upgrade, on edge stability (no chips no more rolls on the edge.) and that's not even all, words can't describe!
There is no point, to spend that much money for a knife, and not puting a proper edge on it. It's like driving a Ferrari with just thin spare tyres and instead of proper oil in the engine, having used the oil you use for cooking.
PS Many people, misjudge a lot of knives, for either their poor edge retention, or because their edges chip easily etc, when in reality, it's 100% users error and not the knife's.
@@greekveteran2715 so how would you treat the new ember.. what should we be doing... I have Japanese water stones
@@norseman1137 If you mean, what should you do, when you get a new knife, then the answer is Reprofile it! : Use your low grit stone (200 to 400) sharpen the edge bevels evenly and fix any potential anomalies (like uneven edge bevel).The edge must look the same on both sides.
Then advance on medium grit stone (1000 grit) and do the same passes on both sides. (You should double the ammount of passes, to remove the scratches the low grit left behind)
Then you advance to your polishing stones (3000 grit) where you have to triple the ammount of passes!
After that, you check if any burr is left, you strop (stropping on newspaper can make the edge sharper than a scalpel!)
PS: Convexing the edge bevel slightly, will upgrade the overall performance. (more edge stability, cuts better, cut's longer)
PS 2: That's how you prepare a hunting, bushcraft, or any kind of outdoors knife, to be used for the first time. You don't use it with the factory edge.
@@greekveteran2715 great reply thanks mate 🤘
small tip you can put some stobing agent the inside of your dangler and you basicly got a small leather strobe with you just make sure you are not cutting into it. It works realy well and extends the sharpening intervals by a lot
Oh knice tip! Thanks! And thanks for stropping by to watch and comment.
Beautiful looking knife. Almost too beautiful to bang around with out in the woods. For that, get a cheapo Mora. Get two. Or four. Still spending less. I think a lot of these knives are for collectors.
As one of the first higher-end blades down my fixed-blade journey, I felt the same way - I just couldn't hit the back of it with a hammer like I do my Moras...but I've become a bit more of a beater of knives on even great looking ones like these. It's kind of a part of the functional art viewpoint. Thanks for stropping by to check it out and comment! 👊✌
Scandi grinds can be a mofo to reprofile the first time. I am sad to say that I only have one joker. I think it's an ember, maybe not. Looks just like yours only mine is in Bohler K720. I love it. Tough as nails.
I can't even imagine trying to do a full reprofile on a scandi (certainly not without an electric belt sander) - sandpaper and a flat surface have always worked for me to maintain (you might check out the first couple minutes of my Casstrom Lars Falt video where I show how I restore order to a seasonally-beaten-up blade). Fret not about lack of multiple Jokers - I only have the one in this video, and it is nearly perfect. I haven't tried K720, but my guess is it's gonna be similar in performance to Sleipner, which I really love - again see my Lars Falt vid. Thanks for stropping in to check it out and comment! 🤜🤛
@@MitchBollig From what research I've done, k720 is supposedly like an O1 on steroids.
I DONT NEED IT.I DONT NEED IT. I. NEEEEED. IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIT. seriously i want the nessmuk so bad, its not a matter of it, but when...... when i wont be able to resist the call anymore lol. joker nessmuk flat ground and the kephart bk62 are probably next on the list
Oh yeah - that flat ground with the bone handles...RESIST...CANNNNT. 🤣. It is very sweet, and it's tough to wrong with any Ka-Bar.
Great bang for the buck.
Thanks for showing it.
Most welcome. This one is a fantastic value - and they just didn't make a single serious error. I held out so long from doing this review because I didn't want to "move on to the next knife" Thanks for stropping in to comment!
@@MitchBollig, I must really like it, cause I went to bookmark it on my computer and put it on the longing list of wants, and already had it bookmarked. 😀
What gloves were you wearing?
Just one of the two pair of leather gloves my dad got me like 20 years ago. I literally can't find a name brand on them, but they have some seam tears, a couple well-placed holes, and a lot of finger forming. If in doubt...pay the extra and get real leather.
I really dont like Garberg, it just ruins my hand, hotspots everywhere.
Joker Campero flatgrind and Joker Trampero flatgrind, those are my favourites.
I have Nordico scandigrind and ember scandigrind also, but uses the campero and trampero most often.
Joker Ember is a wonderfull knife, cool version with micarta you went and got 👍🏻 For the price, nothing beats Joker. Nothing.
Joker not always perfect, but mora is much much worse. And yes I know the difference between handmade and factory. But still, moras getting bad.
Hurra Joker, keep it up
Btw, shoutout to you and your ego for saying 'medium to large hands', exactly, like most guys.
A lot of knife reviews its been told to you that they have XXL hands. Yea right. Ever met a guy with XXL hands? Then you would know what big hands are.
Us size 10-11-12 users, thats not BIG hands.
Just normal man hands.
Thanks for your thoughtful comments - really appreciate it when I get a lot to ponder in comments. Regarding hand size, I have tried 3 different brands of latex gloves, and the Med are a wee bit small and the Large have a bit of leg-room so to speak, so that's where I come up as you say with "regular guy hands" :-). Though I love my Mora (Garberg, Companion, Eldris, Robust), it is tough to argue with the value of Joker in Spain - they just don't turn out any real fails (like you said - not perfect, but no fails for the price). I think LT Wright in the USA is probably the only maker I've found who combines the value and quality *every* time. Thanks for stropping by! ✌
@@MitchBollig LT Wright starts at double the price of a joker at least here in Europe. And thats if you can get one.. I dont think we have LT Wright in Europe anymore..
Ouch...fortunately LT Wright is not too expensive in the USA.
Joker knives are so damn nice' i wanna switch over but its hard to replace my convexed garberg and bk 16
A convexed Garberg? Fantastic. Any Becker BK#? Great. Adding a Joker would just be indulgent...let me know which one you get 😉.
You use a hammer on your knife ?
Not often...but I've had to before with my Mora to open a can of food and a proper sized log wasn't readily available - we were hungry! Thanks for asking. ✌️ 🤙
Very unpolished presentation
Thank you very much...I was afraid to be lumped in with one of those "professional knife review" channels, so I sabotaged some of my footage and resorted to using a cell phone and Microsoft Video Editor to "keep it real". Glad it worked 😉. Thanks for stropping by to check it out and comment!