The process for leveling the table on a Chinese Laser Cutter is very simple and can be done in minutes. I have written instructions, plus a few other tips on my website at: makestuffnow.co...
You do not neccessary need to remove the belt to be able to level each side. You can also loosen each of the screw-nuts & counter-screw-nuts around each threaded rod. Then you are able to level the bed by turning the screw-nut under the table up or down. When finished you only have to secure both screw-nuts on each rod by turning them against eachother.
I hate this part of maintenance because you didn't notice it or failed to mention it but on your left side, when you went and pulled the belt over the tensioning idler, that leadscrew turned a good bit so now that leg is not at the same height as the rest. I wish there was a better way of doing this or some way to lock them in because at the moment you go to adjust the tension, as you did, is when one, or two, move on you.
Yeah I failed to mention that. To do it properly (which I went back and did later) I need to get right in the way of the camera. If you start from the back pulling the belt tight and carefully wrapping it around the screws as you make your way to the front, then you can get it to fit on without shifting when you tighten it up. I haven't managed to think of a better way to do it yet because I only do it about once or twice a year, so I forget all about it.
Since it is one belt and 4 leadscrews I wonder why they lose sync? Is it because they are crappy leadscrews? On a 3d printer if you have one motor and a belt you adjust it and they never need be adjusted again unless you physically do something to make it out of whacked.
This one is not motorized so when you twist it by hand all it takes is for one of the screws to jam a little bit and you put a bit more muscle into it and there is a an opportunity for the belt slip a notch over one of the pulleys. It only has to happen a few times over the course of several months and you start to get a noticeable error in the table. That's how I observe mine gets out of alignment. I imaging putting a motor on the z-axis so the motion is always smooth would make it more reliable.
I am not sure as mine is motorized and those leadscrews are horrible. Matter of a fact they were so bad that the swath from cutting them on a lathe was still on the bottom of each one (sharp too). I was watching your mirror alignment video again and I did not see where you made the beam dead center on the lens because you have exactly the same one that I do and if the beam is in the middle in the Z of the opening on mirror 3 the beam will not be in the middle of the lens. I wish they made these with a Z height adjustment for the head. Beam is parallel but not dead center, and never will be, without a Z adjustment for the head.
Would you be able to tell me what timing belt that is? Mine broke and I can’t find a replacement anywhere online. I don’t have the measurements. I know it’s 3m and 15mm wide but the length of the closed loop is what I don’t know
Exactly how did you remove the thin aluminium bed that came factory? I've looked and can't figure out how. I have what appears to be the same 50 watt machine.
You have probably noticed the factory aluminium is clamped down underneath the leadscrew nuts so you can't just pull it straight off.. I took the whole inner table assembly out, 4 leadscrews and all, and disassembled it entirely. I took a 3mm aluminium plate and you can see I cut the corners so it sits clear of the screws so it is possible to take it off and replace it in the future if I want to.
@@TheDwilliams1000 you need to unscrew the 4 brackets holding in the main bed screws, and take the whole think out. then you can remove the inner frame and take the flimsy aluminium sheet off and replace it with something else. I didnt take full photos of the process but I do have a bit of an instruction guide here makestuffnow.com/upgrade-and-align-laser-cutter-table
No the table originally had the same thin, bent sheet they all come with. I bought a 3mm thick aluminium plate cut to size, then drilled/tapped my own hole configuration. I do a lot of work that needs to be laid out and lined up accurately.
Thanks for a reply. Is it possible for you to share some more information about that table please? Like parts used, how to procedure, possibly some plans? Thank you.
I have a few details about the repacement table on my blog makestuffnow.com.au/upgrade-and-align-laser-cutter-table No plans though- just laid out the hole pattern as I went along.
Ok. I see now...You have had a raising mechanism in your machine alredy you've just changed the table. What I'm looking for is to fit a raising mechanism to my 40w chinese machine. I can get an aluminium plate and drill some holes but was looking more for details of the lifting jig (what screws, how to attached pulleys, how to attached to brackets etc.)
Well you need 4 acme screws with timing pulleys on the bottom so you can link them together. And some nuts to attach to the table. The mounting brackets it came fitted with were real sloppy so I made some new ones from angle aluminium pieces. This video should show enough of the mechanism for you to copy from. There are no other hidden part.
Check the link in the description. You need to remove the 4 top brackets holding the 4 main table screws in place. Then you can remove the entire table bed assembly out from the machine. With it removed it is then easy to see how you can unscrew the old aluminium piece and fit your own custom one on top.
You do not neccessary need to remove the belt to be able to level each side. You can also loosen each of the screw-nuts & counter-screw-nuts around each threaded rod. Then you are able to level the bed by turning the screw-nut under the table up or down. When finished you only have to secure both screw-nuts on each rod by turning them against eachother.
Very informative, well presented. Look forward to more videos
Thank you - That makes it much easier than I thought
dave
I hate this part of maintenance because you didn't notice it or failed to mention it but on your left side, when you went and pulled the belt over the tensioning idler, that leadscrew turned a good bit so now that leg is not at the same height as the rest. I wish there was a better way of doing this or some way to lock them in because at the moment you go to adjust the tension, as you did, is when one, or two, move on you.
Yeah I failed to mention that. To do it properly (which I went back and did later) I need to get right in the way of the camera.
If you start from the back pulling the belt tight and carefully wrapping it around the screws as you make your way to the front, then you can get it to fit on without shifting when you tighten it up.
I haven't managed to think of a better way to do it yet because I only do it about once or twice a year, so I forget all about it.
Since it is one belt and 4 leadscrews I wonder why they lose sync? Is it because they are crappy leadscrews? On a 3d printer if you have one motor and a belt you adjust it and they never need be adjusted again unless you physically do something to make it out of whacked.
This one is not motorized so when you twist it by hand all it takes is for one of the screws to jam a little bit and you put a bit more muscle into it and there is a an opportunity for the belt slip a notch over one of the pulleys. It only has to happen a few times over the course of several months and you start to get a noticeable error in the table.
That's how I observe mine gets out of alignment.
I imaging putting a motor on the z-axis so the motion is always smooth would make it more reliable.
I am not sure as mine is motorized and those leadscrews are horrible. Matter of a fact they were so bad that the swath from cutting them on a lathe was still on the bottom of each one (sharp too).
I was watching your mirror alignment video again and I did not see where you made the beam dead center on the lens because you have exactly the same one that I do and if the beam is in the middle in the Z of the opening on mirror 3 the beam will not be in the middle of the lens. I wish they made these with a Z height adjustment for the head. Beam is parallel but not dead center, and never will be, without a Z adjustment for the head.
Would you be able to tell me what timing belt that is? Mine broke and I can’t find a replacement anywhere online. I don’t have the measurements. I know it’s 3m and 15mm wide but the length of the closed loop is what I don’t know
Exactly how did you remove the thin aluminium bed that came factory? I've looked and can't figure out how. I have what appears to be the same 50 watt machine.
You have probably noticed the factory aluminium is clamped down underneath the leadscrew nuts so you can't just pull it straight off..
I took the whole inner table assembly out, 4 leadscrews and all, and disassembled it entirely. I took a 3mm aluminium plate and you can see I cut the corners so it sits clear of the screws so it is possible to take it off and replace it in the future if I want to.
@@makestuffnow Thanks! I'll give that a try. The thin aluminum bed on my machine is wavy so I can never get it flat.
@@makestuffnow I really need to figure out how to do this as well
@@TheDwilliams1000 you need to unscrew the 4 brackets holding in the main bed screws, and take the whole think out. then you can remove the inner frame and take the flimsy aluminium sheet off and replace it with something else. I didnt take full photos of the process but I do have a bit of an instruction guide here makestuffnow.com/upgrade-and-align-laser-cutter-table
Sehr gute Sache !
Was that table part of your machine or have you added it? Looks cool. Something I'd like to have in my machine...
No the table originally had the same thin, bent sheet they all come with.
I bought a 3mm thick aluminium plate cut to size, then drilled/tapped my own hole configuration. I do a lot of work that needs to be laid out and lined up accurately.
Thanks for a reply. Is it possible for you to share some more information about that table please? Like parts used, how to procedure, possibly some plans? Thank you.
I have a few details about the repacement table on my blog makestuffnow.com.au/upgrade-and-align-laser-cutter-table
No plans though- just laid out the hole pattern as I went along.
Ok. I see now...You have had a raising mechanism in your machine alredy you've just changed the table. What I'm looking for is to fit a raising mechanism to my 40w chinese machine. I can get an aluminium plate and drill some holes but was looking more for details of the lifting jig (what screws, how to attached pulleys, how to attached to brackets etc.)
Well you need 4 acme screws with timing pulleys on the bottom so you can link them together. And some nuts to attach to the table.
The mounting brackets it came fitted with were real sloppy so I made some new ones from angle aluminium pieces.
This video should show enough of the mechanism for you to copy from. There are no other hidden part.
Could you tell me how you did the bed. Mine still has the stock bed
Please I too would like to know how you did bed
Wanna ask how to open and remove the original aluminium that bend easily, i want to change the thick aluminium like yours
Check the link in the description.
You need to remove the 4 top brackets holding the 4 main table screws in place. Then you can remove the entire table bed assembly out from the machine. With it removed it is then easy to see how you can unscrew the old aluminium piece and fit your own custom one on top.
i cut it out using metal scissors
Send make of machine and some details
Thanks in advance