It's The Most Important Part of this Boat's Refit (& I'm Trying Not to Wing It) | Wildling Sailing
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- čas přidán 2. 11. 2023
- The partial winging of a major refit.
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Just some advice from a marine engineer that doesn't want to see you stranded. I would highly recommend adding fender washers that have more width/shoulder to them. 7:45 What you are using now will pull through the beam over a short period of time. If you can find a shop that has some 1.5 - 2 inch wide SS flat bar that you can have across the beam being used by both bolts it will give you a higher clamp force and stability. This would be your best route.
Absolutely. Mark is still thinking in machine shop terms. Wood requires different solutions.
@@nick.caffrey Exactly. He is doing a great job with everything. Just some odds and ends he is still learning about. The good thing is Mark is open to new info and ideas.
I was thinking the washers were too small...First thing came to mind was old 'Penny' washers for size. Stainless or coated..
@@davidmason5163 That would work as well. I like the SS flat bar for the fact it spreads out the forces from all the variables when under sail over a larger portion of the beam.
@@revtoyota yeah definitely flat bar, going to outperform washers and looks better.
Great to see me dad's old workmate and some of my tools getting some good usage.
💪👍
Every time I watch I'm terrified something is going to fall through spaces in between the deck boards. :D
I get you Benjamin...but he uses his dingy to catch anything🤗⛵️🤗
@@artbymaryf7283 Hi Mary! Honored by your reply. You have a great kiddo and wonderful family. Didn't think about the dingy! Lord knows if it was me half my tools would be in a watery grave. 😆 God bless and always look forward to seeing mom and dad on the channel. Cheers!
@Benjamin-tv2xd ...honestly Benjamin, that was one of my fears,,,but Mark said its great for catching anything that may fall!!😂 Ahh that is so lovely of you to say...Mark is our youngest of 3 sons & they all are our life - we feel so blessed 🙏
Here's a suggestion for the rounded bottom of the mast step bracket....have a machine shop mill it flat. Looks like lots of metal there and should be an easy job and relatively inexpensive to true up the bottom surface. Having a flat surface would save you a lot of time and aggravation when mounting that piece.
Love your vids. Highly recommend you use larger washers on both ends of the threaded bar. The larger they are the more you multiply the pull through resistance.
17:59 mark you need to fit the spacers inside your square tube as when you tighten the all thread it will squash down the box section ...allowing it to work loose . The threaded gap between the uprights doesnt need to be covered per say but if you do sleeve it make sure its bit shorter than the gap or it will prevent the brackets gripping the wooden beam effectively 👍🏼💪🏼 more power and 🧠 to your elbows 😉
Hey man, you’re doing so great. “Winging it” is not the impression you’re giving me. I feel like you’re working hard behind the scenes to do things well. And hell, you’ve mentioned your concerns over sailing safety like how many times!?! Keep going man. Can’t wait to see you sailing this great little boat. 🤙
cheers mate!
Some of those experts can even spell comments. 😂
That's unfair @@gregm8941, even though some people are not as well trained in the English language . It doesn't say anything about their knowledge of sailing or boat building
@@gregm8941 Elon musk cant spell for sixpence , and doesn't have a degree .
Lovely...just lovely🤗⛵️🤗
I find cobalt plated bits make drilling stainless a breeze, if they are available the the extra expense is so worth it!
Yes, carbide is not doing it for very long at all
It’s tough to keep yourself motivated when you’re doing it by yourself. Your graft is inspiring. So glad Anika is guiding you. C’mon you lad!!!
You keep doing you, man. There is an internet "expert" behind every keyboard. You're doing great work and I cannot wait until this project is completed.
I’d like to recommend a good center punch to dimple the steel and a few Cobalt drill bits for use on stainless. It’s surprising how much load the rigging carries so the mast is mostly under compression. Looking good! It’s going to be great! And when you’re done you can rightfully say “I did that!”
Use a pilot drill (or two) to progressively drill larger holes to the finished size. One large drill can create work-hardening of the stainless so by pilot drilling, you do most of the work with the outer edges of the drill bit.
Very sound tip. And it's not even time-consuming as you would think!
Geat advice! I size my pilot hole by the center of the largest drillbit, there is a small section that doesnt do any cutting .
Step drill set would be an excellent addition to the arsenal and _SLOWER_ drilling!!
@@dancarter482 damn. You beat me to it. I just made the same remark. Best drills ever.
Also set the speed lower for stainless steel and use lube as you want to avoid heat. Stainless will get harder as it heats up.
Don’t feel bad you’ve no more content, watching you make any progress each week is proof enough you are moving forward to be able to sail in the future. Make another cup of tea and keep going before it gets too cold 👍👍👍👍
I'm constantly impressed by how constructively you deal with comments by your viewers 👍
Ditto🤗⛵️🤗
You're doing a great job without a workshop and learning so much about the materials you are using. The boat will evolve with you for many years. Great to see you both progressing
I remember your first fibreglass project where you were laminating bulkheads,,,, you,ve come a long way. You,re doing a solid job. The hardest part is pushing through!
Mark, boat work is just winging it 99.9% of the time! Your doing a great job!
You're doing great and you have come along way.. seems that you have really slowed down and started caring about the proper ways and the finished product.. you will have Mahi done when she's done and then you can enjoy your hard work and long hours..
Lots of folks giving good positive advice about things …so let me just thank you for showing all the good and struggles. 🙂
instead of recutting the threads just put a bolt on before cutting. when you get it off it automatically puts the cut thread back in place. also please leave like 3 complete nut turns on it on both sides. when the bolt ends directly at the nut they have a drastically decreased strength.
got ya, I made them oversized so should be plenty of space
Im sure you mean a nut, but he has a die cutter, so better to use that.
Thanks for the info on leaving 3 turns of thread protruding. I had assumed that it was ok to cut the bolt off directly at the nut. 👍
for drilling stainless cobalt drill bits are what i would recommend also slightly slower drill speed with some cutting fluid and once you start dont stop till you are through or it will work harden trust me i had to do 30k of them over 2 weeks of hell ps your doing great
Mark you are a star.
Please would you consider wearing eye protection when drilling, a bit of swarf can take your sight? I noticed my panic. Go gently and well. x
You are doing a great job. Save a fortune on drill bits, learn to sharpen them and they will last forever, well almost. The HSS (High Speed Steel) bits can be sharpened to different angles to suit different materials. Each drill bit, small or big, can probably be sharpened about 100 times and each time be like new. And use oil when drilling metals.
Keep the faith, you will be sailing soon.
You look so much more confident with the manual work and getting help where you need it. I think its coming together and will be a good boat when it's finished. Keep going
Dear Wildling Sailing.
👍👌👏 2) Yeah, I totally agree: Simply do what Hanneke suggests. She's definitely an expert. I guess that she is the most experienced Wharram sailor and builder. 3) You sound a bit tired. I'm a bit worried. Maybe you need a vacation.
Best regards, luck and health in particular.
Good to see Hanneka is keeping her beady eye on your work. Do not forget to resin/fiberglass all the wood including end grains and fill the holes also.
I know I love you Mark - for that there is no doubt....HOWEVUUURRRR, Each week i'm falling in love more & more with your subscribers!! The constructive advice, knowledge & encouragement is palpable🤗⛵️🤗
In my humble opinion, you should cover in epoxy every single piece of wood, before setting it permanently.
cool, will do
@@WildlingSailing and inside every drilled hole, then fill the holes with sikaflex then finish the install . I would also use cover nuts for a nice finish.
Butyl tape for all holes will keep the freshwater out and reworkable unlike sealant...
Hardly necessary. Good quality paint is totally sufficient for a non immersed piece of quality wood, and is needed to avoid UV damage for epoxy anyway. Do you see any epoxy painted on exterior non-immersed timber in other wooden boat projects ??
@@WildlingSailingsaw a method online for filling horizontally drilled holes with epoxy. From duct tape form a little dam or half funnel which will direct epoxy in while a similar funnel on other end allows air to escape up, this filling hole to top. *Sorry, old mind makes attribute unavailable, but thanks to this fine mariner.
Hey Mark, look for a machine shop around you and see if they could skim the bottom of the mast step flat and square to the mast. If you need it on a bit of an angle on the mast, they can machine that angle into the base. I've been a Machinist for over 25 years and this would be easy.
Yep they can do that. Get a few quotes if you can. Wonder how it rounded over.
@@slimjim3229heat distortion from welding maybe?
Probably better to have it pad welded before skimming & put a block of g10 underneath it.
This is the way to go. I commented the same thing above.
I agree needs to be skimmed flat. Otherwise you don't know what you are working with. S few mm off at the bottom is a wonky mast at the top
You can find many 'experts' in domments, given Hanneke has more experience than anyone else out there regarding the Wharran designs nad builds, I know who's advice I would listen too!
Good film, I'm amazed by your perseverance. You must really love Wharrams! A tip from my (late) engineer dad: always keep a nut upstream on the thread you're cutting. When you finish, wind down the nut and go forwards and back a bit and it will clean the end-thread up for you. Saves a lot of frustration later!
Huge respect mister, best of luck in the future. Keep learning, keep grinding :)
Well done Mark. Progress is being made which we can all see. Keep it up.
It took me quite a while to understand why a drill bit had anything to do with the song. I was just about to post a comment asking someone to explain it, then it hit me. A "Helter Skelter" is a fair ground ride that's a tower with a spiral slide around it. The drill bit looks like that slide! And that's what the song is named after.
Mate, first: you are doing a phenomenal good job on your boat! Second: You need to keep in mind that it is in fact YOUR boat, and YOU have to have confidence in her capabilities! YOU are (re)building her, it is YOUR home. So please....take the good advice-but never EVER doubt your own choices and decisions! You ARE doing it right my friend! You have made the right decisions. There is always more then one road to the same destination! Keep it up-hang in there-and you WILL get there! ( sorry for all the captcha's bro!). Just keep going!
It's great to watch. I have owned many a yacht ,and people said you can get the same feeling if you stand in a shower ripping up 20-pound notes.. but you need to have some fun as well .
you can sharpen drill bits wit a little attachment with a stone inside, they don't cost much
AHOY from Sweden ! Just use water to keep the HSS drills cool all the time when drilling 316. Anywhere the 316 is drilled, filed or hacksawed, it will get superficial rust. Only electropolishing stops this.
You can get stainless steel "passivating" solution to fix that.
I'm a bit vague on the chemistry, but it basically binds with any free iron atoms that are exposed by cutting/drilling etc, and stops the rust.
@@petercroft9895 Yes. I remember using stuff like that... a long time ago. I don't remember exactly what it was called, but it was something like 'Euroclean'.
its really nice to see you learning with this boat and more committed to doing things properly rather than beetle tapping everything 😅
Someone might have mentioned this already but if you're cutting threaded rod, put the nut on first, cut it , then take the nut off. That way the nut will clean up the threads at the cut end with minimal effort.
Reduce the wear on larger bits in ss by drilling a smaller pilot hole, as the points are worn out quickly without a pilot.
Drills like chisels can and should be kept sharpened by hand file or drill stones...
@@saylaveenadmearedead I don't think a file will touch a HSS drill bit.
I was like it’s Friday night. Mark where are you?? And there you are again on CZcams. Look forward more now to Fridays because of you mark!!😉😉
9pm UK time!! cheers mate, appreciate the love for the vids, it keeps me goin!!
Well Mark, you are definitely progressing as a "Do it all" boat owner. After reading thru the comments it looks like most of my suggestions have already been stated (center punch, cobalt drills, pilpt hole, a good electric bit sharpener, countersinking the nuts). The only words of wisdom i can add to it is when putting stainless fasteners onto stainless threads always add some type of lubricant. Stainless on stainless like to gall and bind up. Keep on learning, but take some time for yourself. Don't be concerned about stepping away for a bit and putting the boat out of your mind. It will pay dividends when you get back to it.
You deserve all the support u can get. U are a dedicated fellow. 🇨🇦
Anyone who listens to the Beatles while they are working is bound to succeed! You're doing great, Get yourself a grinding wheel and sharpen your drill bits. It's easy to do by hand once you get the hang of it.
The bit that will compress when the bolts are done up is the box section.Instead of cutting bushes inside the box section you could have used hardwoodcut with an interference fit & hammered in. Then drilled. The box section would not compress &if you were worries about rot you could soak it in resin first.
You are right and Mark is also on a budget,
Also the other bushings over the logs keeps it from being tight. He should be careful who he get advise from, I would say listen to Anika alone, if possible hire her an hour a week online, that will save Mark time and money.... and stupid advise.
@@jiefflerenard1228 Correct . The bushings on the beam need to be slightly slack to allow max compression across the beam.Considering the cost he could have just put bushes on the top ones where they bear on the beam & helf stiffen the studding & not bothered on the underside where they are below the beam & do not apply any vertical load. Only horizontal clamping load.
I don't think that checking details with the designer counts as winging it! Keep going!
Very nice! Its comming along my friend! You are getting better and better.
Greetings from Norway! Last weeks video was a gem, and the quality is only getting better in wisdom, skills and not least the storytelling. And a great taste in music is also a pluss 😊
Thankyou so much, mate. comments like these are such a nice reward for the work!!
Great progress 👏👏
I’ve been following your channel for some time and want to commend you for your tenacity. It is inspiring for an an old codger like me to watch a young man go for such a daunting goal. You have given me hope for the younger generation.
With every video, I’m impressed more and more with your tenacity and wonderful demeanor.
I would definitely put at least two all thread bolts into the main beam. Better also to use the same size bit as the thread and coat the drill hole with some epoxy paint to help preserve it
@Wildling Sailing: Screw the haters my friend! You are doing a great job! Keep up the good work. I'm not missing a single video. Love that you are jamming the Beatles. Jon, Paul, George, and Ringo would love what you are accomplishing. 😊
A word of encouragement. Keep on the good work. Sure one could always do better. Fact is you a learning such a lot as you go on and people should remember you had a boat before this one which you successfully restored and sailed. You got my admiration and support!!!
A trick I learned when cutting threaded rod or bolts is to spin a couple of nuts on first. It gives you something to clamp down on without damaging the threads and when you back the nuts off it repairs the threads
It’s a great outcome happening. It will be cool to see it merging. The mast going up, the engines on. Your great job. Just to say it is inspiring following your channel.
Great work Mark! Going strong despite the weather deteriorating. Hope the recent storm didn't cause any damage!
Thank you for addressing comments related to the mast beam. You are doing fine work. Seeing your struggles and successes is very satisfying. Thank you for providing content.
You are doing great Mark!
I know what's refitting a boat but i can't imagine doing it by myself and pull out a CZcams production.
Wow. Congratulations
TIP: if you can lash or clamp down your workbench, I think you'll be amazed at how much it improves your work. I have a Workmate bench like yours. I hang two 20lb hand barbells from it to give it some stability in my garage. It makes a world of difference not having to stand on it, etc.
Agreed, awesome album, one of my favs, I for one think you're doing an incredible job under difficult circumstances(the fact you aren't a shipwright), but you still consulted the designer, which I can honestly tell you, most people don't do! So an Aussie hats off to you my friend!
Well, fancy the Norwegian Star Cruise ship coming by specially to see your boat. You're famous Mark!
I like the hard wood pieces where the engine mounts go. That was a good idea to route out the groove for the bars. Gives a positive location.
I use a centre drill for starting stainless. Not sure why but it works like a dream, even through thick stuff. Well done Mark, she' taking shape.
Love how you're bringing to a able vessel,Mark!
I really look forward the this every Friday. You’re a real grafter, good learner, and you have inspiring enthusiasm. Thanks for letting us see all this. Well done.
Your boat is looking great Mark.when you finish it don't sell it like you did the other cat. Keep up the good work.
Your doin great. Photography is great and editing looks good to me.
Keep your excitement for this stuff and your gonna do fantastic.
God love this kid for the effort, this project is fun to watch and at the same time is killing me.
I, personally, think if you have driven a 12mm hole you should use 12mm rod. I would agree with bigger washers - even more important if you are using 10mm rod.
Yes 12mm rod will be alot stronger
Mark your doing great mate, it’s so nice to see Annika and Yourself Become Great Friends 👍🥰
Hanneke
@@jadams3427 I thought I got it wrong, Ty.
If you can get to a grinding wheel you can sharpen those bits! You doing awesome keep it up
Hey Mark, loving your videos. I’m a field service tech listening to you during the day, looking forward to your sailing adventures.
I sharpen my drill bits freehand on the fly using an angle grinder, you can use a Jig also 🙂👍
I am not in a position to criticise you as I am totally impractical, but I think you are doing a fantastic job, well done.
It’s your ship….. you are the Captain of said ship….. you know and conversed with the said co- designer of the ship…. Have discussed said procedure and have her blessings….. so once again your are the Captain of said ship….. aka….. you do as you damn well please……I for one don’t know much about sea vessels but you seem to have good knowledge and have talked to an expert of said ship…… so You Do What You Damn Well Please….. I’ve got faith in you and you will succeed…..safe seas and happy sailing…….⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️ anchors away my boy…..👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
In the intro seeing how well you nailed the drilling... I was super impressed. Then I saw the tool you used to get it really straight .... still super impressed! Well played sir... well played!!
As lots of people have said a smaller pilot hole first when drilling stainless also maybe get a cheap pillar drill, nice slow steady speed and even pressure. It would be worth it in the long run if you much more stainless to drill. I’m sure there would be something on marketplace or similar. Good luck and keep up the great work. Oh and some proper cutting fluid, I like CT90.
Well done mate, progress towards the dream.
You're making really good progress.
One piece of advice I read from an old shipwright. When you get new drill bits, don't throw away the old, dull ones. Save those for drilling stainless steel exclusively.
For nautical use, the correct option is 316L Stainless Steel (low carbon). 304 steel oxidizes quickly in contact with seawater.
You're almost there Mark. I look forward to watching your videos every week. Keep motivated and do it the right way FIRST!
Good jobs done. Small steps make one big one🎉
Hey Mark, it looks like the long drill bit (auger) is meant for an SDS drill as opposed to a 3 jaw chuck. Looks like you managed anyway.
Excellent work Mark! You might consider a reciprocating saw if theres much more metal work!
I was worn out just watching you cut all that! 😅
Cannot wait to see that mast planted and a sail flying!
Advice is just epoxying any and all holes as well as wood and using large diameter washers on the stainless rectangular and square tubing.
Also, lock washers may last longer than nylock nuts.
I'm so jealous of you and this massive cool project!
Goooo Mark!👍
Mark very smart to have one drill that runs on electricity, covers when you have burned through all the batteries, good to hear that you build of the mast foot was blessed by the designer. With stainless the faster you drill the harder the metal becomes....slow with lube does it. You might not be able to see it but you have grown immensely as a builder you are taking your time, deferring to experts, and defending their advice, and you are willing to redo things you feel aren't up to the level you want....you are doing really well...cheers
Loving the self depreciating attitude, you are doing a great job.I really look forward to every new video.
Deprecating
You really have learnt so much. But you had some of the best people helping. You mount the beam as one of the boats designers said was safe. 2x👍
You will find the 304 will rust very quickly. Try sticking with 316 on all exterior metals including fixings. Hope that helps😊
Hi Mark glad to see you and Annaka are working together on the mast step after all she has built a few in her time your work ethic is great as being on your own for some people can be hard keep it up well done 😊😊😊
tip for drilling into metal, once you see steam and or smoke, there is no more lubricant in the hole. A proper whole punch would be better too.
I want to buy my own boat, probably a 30 foot boat made out of GRP, not a multi hull. You are ɓuilding Mahi to a high standard, no matter what the naysayers comment! Keep up your good work!
Thanks for providing context at the start; I really enjoy watching you work -- fascinating!
Thank you patrons for helping me have this material.
For the mast foot: I suggest a polyurethane sheet of sufficient thickness to take up the bow in the base. 5mm will be more than adequate. Its a compression load, its bolted down, and there will be rigging to keep the mast upright. I wouldnt worry about it mate.
Exactly a lot of folks are thinking there is a massive load at the mast base. The rigging is what holds the mast upright the load on the base is actually pushing the newly installed base beam down onto the other beams. Hence the reason the lag bolts are more then adequate.
Your jig should help with vertical holes. I've learned that with horizontal holes, one can slip a slightly larger washer over the bit and with the bit turning, use the washer to know when the bit is level. Move the drill up or down until the washer "rides" about halfway between the wood and the bit. This is of no help right or left but is an acceptable way to gauge the up/down. :)
HEY Mark, just discovered your channel, we bought our CT41 taiwan clipper in Monnickendam Harbour and always wondered what this cool wharam was doing there in the corner of the small lake near the harbor, glad that there is someone taking care and making it into a beautiful new adventure. good luck and save travel.
Hi Mark, keep going, you doing fine. Nice to see the progress being made, love the show, cheers Craig UK
Loving the series! Keep at it!
You are doing great Mark and there is lots of good advice below. It's difficult to imagine what you are aiming at with the motor housings and the beams. It would be really nice if you could somehow show us the intended finished set-up, then we could understand why you are doing what you are doing...
What you are doing is MASSIVE!!!!! Take no notice of the couch surfers, you are living a really great life and it does not matter if you get some things wrong, you have have got the main thing right TO LIVE AN ADVENTURE. There is no loosing as long as you are trying. Loosing only happens when you give up and go and get a job in a fecking office with a boss you hate. Loosing only happens when you give up a dream. You can feck everything up along the way, it does not matter, just never make the ultimate feck up of giving up and living a life you regret. Live it like you stole it young Jedi!!!!!!!!!!
Drill a pilot hole first then move up to the full size, but re sharpen your drill bits, after a few years you can do it by eye, but you can by a little jig that fits on your drill to sharpen your bits, good luck in your build