DIY Deck Part 12 - Attaching Railing & Balusters
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- čas přidán 26. 04. 2019
- How-to-do-it-yourself patio/deck, attaching railing and balusters.
00:12 How to measure, cut and prepare deck railing.
01:48 How to attach deck railing.
04:28 How to measure, prepare and attach balusters. - Jak na to + styl
It's nice to see an instructional video made by someone who has owned their tools longer than their video camera!
Ha!Ha! Yea, my tools are certainly much older than my camera gear. I have tools that I used as an apprentice teenager, over 40 years ago, and they're still in use.
@@BasaPete
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Thank you fort the tip about pulling the posts together with a rope. I used a ratchet tie down and fixed a pretty big bow in one post as a result! So many other great info like how you pre-drill and start the screws. Made my DIY project go smoother than I thought.
Thank you for your kind comment.
hey just wanted to say thank you. followed this guide for my front deck (first deck build) and it turned out amazing.
Thank you for your kind comment.
I'm so glad that my video was helpful.
Thank you so much for taking the time to record and post this series! I had several Great Uncles on both sides of the family that built houses, but I wasnt smart enough as a kid to pay attention and learn.A couple of them had started long enough ago to be some of the first to own and use a Skilsaw.
Its so nice to see someone try to see how right they can do something, instead of how fast and how cheap. Thanks for explaining your thought process and reason for every step.
Also with all the HOA's around, been a long time since I saw somebody building with clothes hanging on the line out back.
Thank you for the very nice comment.
Yea, carpentry has been in my family along time, too.
Those old guys really knew how to build it right.
i know it's kinda off topic but does anybody know a good website to watch newly released series online ?
@Jayson Fisher Flixportal :P
@Myles Marlon Thanks, signed up and it seems to work :D Appreciate it!
@Jayson Fisher You are welcome :D
I was struggling to install the balusters without help until I watched your video. It was very helpful. Save me lots of time and energy. Great video!!
Thank you. I'm glad this was helpful.
i am a craftsman for a living...you tickled my brain... thanks!! i like your thinking..
That means a lot coming from a fellow craftsman. Thank You.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make your videos you’ve been so helpful God bless you
Thank you for your nice comment.
I have used your videos several times to show customers the traditional method of using wood. You are very easy to understand as well as intelligent. Thanks for your time! So many people want to go with plastic, but it is awful for our planet. So, I always recommend wood, or defer to metal if someone is looking for something different.
Thank You for your kind comment.
Like you, I'm not in favour of using plastics. Wood, metal or concrete are the only genuine building materials.
Great job! You made me look forward to my project! Thank you!
Thanks. Good luck and have fun.
Just the answer I needed...predrilled those toenail holes on end. Thanks!
Thank you. Glad I could help.
Good job Sir, learned alot from you. Thanks. From Edmonton. Canada.
Thank You.
You are the cat's meow. Quality workmanship.
Thank You.
Congratulations master y love your work 😎
I love to see someone still using a corded tool. Run the cord once and you don't have to chase dead batteries all day. My favorite part is the end of the day when all the batteries are dead and you end up waiting for enough charge to finish a handful of fasteners. Not everybody can afford an extra $400 in batteries to run a tool. Nice job rails look straight and square.
Thank you for the nice comment.
I agree; corded tools are much more reliable than battery-powered tools.
Great videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for your comment.
I am 71 years old but I learn from you. MEXICO 😎
Gracias mi amigo. Me alegra poder ayudar.
Great presentation!!!!! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank You.
what i have to admire most is your attention to detail. All the way down to wearing the same T-shirt so the videos all segway together without outfit changes. well done sir.
Thank You. You are the first to comment on my tee shirt, and you're right I purposely wore the same shirt, hat, and pants. Did you notice the NASCAR theme?
@@BasaPete Be honest. You only own one T-shirt ;-)
@@SteveRawcliffe I have lots of T-shirts, but only wear one. Ha!Ha!
Looks great! Thanks for the video
Thank You for the comment.
Excellent series on building a deck, thanks for sharing you’re expertise.
Thank you for your nice comment.
Thoroughly enjoyed your videos. Wish we could find someone in Cape Breton to build us a patio that good.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed my videos. I had a lot of fun making them.
I'm sure there are some great builders in Cape Breton. Maybe a little research will help you find a good one.
FYI if you cut a piece of wood to use in between for the space you wouldn't have to measure and make marks. Saves time and speeds up production
Thank you for your good advice.
Hi Mr Pete, new subscriber here. I watched this whole series this morning and thoroughly enjoyed it. I'll probably never build my own deck but watching you build was the most satisfying thing this week. Thank you. I learned a lot. You know we have mountains South Africa too.
Thank you for the kind comment. Oh, South Africa is definitely on my list for mountain trekking.
New subscriber. Watched your deck building and Holmes and crew couldn't build a better deck then yours. Looking forward to the rest of the build,
Thank You. Compared to Holmes, that quite the compliment.
Basa Pete Hello. What is the brand of sealer you use after you cut any of the pressure treated wood?
Great videos and great job. Your work is nice.
As an alternative to using a rope to bring the post to plumb I use a small ratchet strap (like you would use to secure a load on a trailer) its a lot easier to do for 1 person and easier to adjust it. As far as marking out where each spindle goes install the first spindle making sure its plumb then cut a block 3 7/8 inch (our code is also 4 inches max so I use 3 7/8 inches just incase you get that one inspector that is "special" 😉) and use that block to space your spindles that eliminates a bunch of extra measuring. Hope this helps
Thank you for your helpful comment.
I love your work
Thank you.
Very informative videos and enjoyable
Thank you for your nice comment.
Good job, it look's real nice.
Thank you.
thnx for the time to make the vídeo, its ver y helpful,
Thank you, glad it helped.
Just stumbled onto your channel. Very good instructions advice on posts and railings. Gonna make my install easier! Liked and subscribed
Thank You.
@@BasaPete my pleasure. Going to be building a railing on 2 sides of my floating deck and the way you notch your posts and attach from the outside is exactly what I needed
Love it.
I should do X style in between the post, but as you say it is a taste.
Dam good job there.
Be sure to check with your local building inspector. Thank You.
Looks great. Glad I found your videos. Not sure what the code is for the bottom rail but I would have gone 3-4 inches up from the deck for snow removal. I say that not knowing how much snow you get in that specific location.
Thankyou
Hi Pete....bloody marvelous videos mate!!! when can we expect to see video #13
Thank you. Hoping to have #13 ready soon, "Final Touches".
Basa Pete I waiting too
I chose a different top rail (2 X 6's) so I could set garden boxes, planters, and vases on it. Was able to dig around in these planters, etc. while standing up, not bending over.
That's an excellent idea.
Excelent. Please the part 13?
Thank You.
Part 13 is up.
Good video. Can’t get my head around the weird American measuring though. Had no idea people still used fractions for anything. Millimetres for everything
Thank you for your comment.
I use a mixture of both measuring systems. I use the metric system mainly for distance, elevation, and speed. I use the imperial system for construction, height, weight, and fuel mileage. And there is a lot of measurement where I use both systems, depending on who I'm talking to. I guess you could say I'm bilingual when it comes to measurements.
I'm Canadian too
And proud of it. Thanks.
wheres part 13!?!?!? we need to see this finished deck!
Thank You.
Part 13 is up.
@@BasaPete finally...
I am a dyi and found that 3" screws are too long for 1 1/2" lumber, 2 1/2 work better and don't poke thru the other side , keep up the good work,thnks.
Thank you for your comment.
Yes, you are right. 2-1/2" screws would have worked better, a few 3" screws did pop out the other side.
Excellent series.
Where did you go?
I hope you come back. 😊
Thank You. I'm still here. Have a few projects that I'm working on.
@@BasaPete Good videos! Thank you!
I did a railing similar to yours but used #8. 2.5" about a half an inch from the end. I did two on each side and one on the top and bottom, I also have a 2x6 running across the top using #10 3" to go into the top of the guard post, than roughly every 16" across into the top rail. It seemed really solid before putting the top 2x6. My question though, is will the 2.5 inch screws a half inch away from the end, cause me any concern? I pushed on it pretty hard and shook it back and forth and I'm about 185lbs. Thanks for the video!
Thank you for your comment.
Six 2.5" screws should hold good. The residential code here is 200lbs lateral force. I checked mine with a come-a-long and hanging weight scale.
@@BasaPete great, thanks for the feedback!
What brand of impact driver do you use. I can't find any that are corded. They are all battery powered now
Thank you for your comment.
My impact driver is a 1/4" Mastercraft from Canadian Tire Hardware Store. I don't believe they sell the 1/4" corded impact driver anymore, just the 1/2" corded driver, which is no good for carpenter work unless you're driving in a very large lag bolt or something.
Makita has a 1/4" corded impact driver I believe.
Good Luck.
It seems the only impact drivers that are available now a days are battery which I don't like. There is a Makita that is corded but it is over $400.00. There also is a cheap Makita for $100.00 but it has no power.
What dimension of lumber did you use for the top and bottom parts of the railing? 2x6 or 5/4x6?
Thanks for the question.
I used 2"x4"s, top and bottom.
Basa Pete thank you! I really enjoyed your videos. In our area in Michigan our building codes do not allow us to notch 4x4’s to be used for railing systems.
@@SteveGruver Thank You.
Here in Nova Scotia, we have two building codes: The first is the Canadian Morgage and Housing Codes (CMHC), used by our government and private buildings insured by CMHC. The second is what I call the regular building codes, used by regular people who don't have bucket loads of money.
I am redoing my parents pool deck it goes all the way around a 24-foot round pool and has a side that is 15 ft from the pool and 30 foot wide the other three sides are roughly three and a half foot away from the pool. So the deck itself is 30 × 48 ft it's big and goes all the way around. Me and my dad built it back when I was maybe 6 7 years old over 20 years ago now I'm 38 now. When we Built This deck over 20 years ago there was no codes in the township it was out in the middle of nowhere farmland so my dad put the 4 x 4 posts roughly 13 ft apart all the way around. So I have a question my mom bought new railing Home Depot that only comes in 8 foot sections so I split the 13 foot and put a Post in and lagged it to the 2×8. I did not run the post to the ground I cut it at the bottom of the 2×8 lagged it and sandwiched it with 2×8. My mother seen this and flipped out on me saying they needed to go to the ground. Someone told her every 6 ft. I told her not for railing.but she insisted which meant I had to rip out all the skirting and the framing for the skirting to run the post the ground. Was she right or was I okay putting that post in like I did. It wasn't there before holding up the deck and now it's just there for railing which I lagged and it wasn't going anywhere can somebody please let me know so I can show her how much work and time and money she just wasted thank you
Thank you for your comment.
As you can see on my deck (and you can check with other decks), the railing posts do not need to go to the ground as long as they are attached securely to the framing of the deck.
How to replace old deck rail post , would you use old lag holes
Thank you for your question.
If the lag holes are still in good shape I would. If the holes are not good I would glue in a snug-fitting plug and then redrill.
Hello great job !!! I’m looking for the cut and seal product ? I’ve asked the guys at the local paint store and they all look at me funny ... would you happen to have a name for it ? Thank you keep up the work !!!
Go to a large hardware store like Home Depot or Lowes . Tell them what you want . They all have the stuff .
You can get any wood conditioner like Minwax Wood Conditioner. I think they have a water based one and an oil based one.
Don't have to worry about the cordless drill battery running out
Thank you. My thoughts exactly.
R your joists at 16 " center using the 5/4 " deck boards?
Thank you for your question.
Yes, my joists are 16" centre.
So, a few screws keeps someone from falling through that rail? As that wood dries out and ages, the screws have less bite.
Thank you for your comment.
In my experience screws usually break before they let go, and I've only had one broken screw.
s kingjr you must put 1/2 inch lags through your balusters... since those keep people from falling through... I mean, screws lose their holding power.. right?
How would attach a handrail that is loose to the side of a vinyl house?
Thanks for the question.
I would have to see it before saying anything.
great video, thanks for sharing. I have a question. I see deck rails every where and they all seem to have a board just off the deck top? My question is why so low? I see that you used the distance on the balusters as a guided height. The reason I ask is when I am sweeping or shoveling snow off the deck, the low height does not allow for me to push the leaves or snow under this board? and raising it even a few inches would still not allow a small child to get stuck under it. So I do not see why it would be a safety thing. I know you are not responsible for the building rules, but I thought you might have a answer to my query. Thanks have a great day.
Thank you for your question.
Four inches (10 centimeters) is the maximum opening in a deck railing.
The height (1-1/2") of the lower baluster frame on my deck railing is set due to the length of the prefab balusters (36"). If the balusters were shorter, I could have an opening on the lower baluster frame up to four inches (10 centimeters).
@@BasaPete I see, yes that makes sense. Do you know if there is a guide line on the height of the bottom rail? I am thinking of changing mine? or maybe just a opening for sweeping and shoveling off the snow. I also live in Canada, I am in central Ontario. Thank you for your reply. Have a great day.
@@southerncomfort971 You should check your local building codes to see what they allow. Here in NS, we're allowed 4 inches.
@@BasaPete thanks again , I will check into here.
I watched everything, from part 1 until part 12, where's part 13?
Thank You.
Part 13 is up.
I can’t find any cut-n-seal where I am, what will do in its place?
Thank you for your comment.
Before Cut-N-Seal, I used wood preservative.
I would recommend 2.5 inch screws
Thank you for your comment.
@@BasaPete you do good work 👍
Any more vids coming up
Hopefully, soon.
Using an impact wrench to drive screws is a little overkill
Thank you for your comment.
I've been using an impact-driver for years, it's one of the best and easiest ways to set deck screws.
He is using an old method, in a short time the hand railings will decay and won’t be either secured or safe. My humbled opinion I think using galvanized hardware to hold the hand railings from the posts may work way better then this.
Thank you for your comment and advice.
Hi
You should’ve stopped that 4 x 4 from splitting
Never ever nail balusters that way. They go on the inside of the railing. But hey.....it's your deck not mine.
Honestly, I've never seen a baluster nailed to the inside of a railing.
But, it does make sense that it would be stronger.
I believe we nail them to the outside of the railing purely for the looks.
I've never seen them nailed to the inside of a railing. However, I'm not convinced that toe-nailing a couple of screws to attach a railing is enough to withstand a lateral 200-lb force.
TOO MANY COMMERCIALS
Thanks for the comment.
I watched the video and there were two short commercials at the start and one at the end. That seems normal to me.
I know some long videos (10+ minutes in length) have commercials in the middle, but this 8-minute video didn't have any.
Not sure if CZcams adds more commercials for different viewers. Sorry, but that's out of my control.
As an avid CZcams watcher, I'm considering signing up for CZcams Premium. No commercials.
You need to learn railing math.
Thank you for your comment.
Railing math is simple after used several times. However, some do-it-yourselfers find it complicated. That's why I demonstrate an easier method: Railing length divided by 4 inches. If the balusters come up uneven adjust the 4 inches to 4 -1/8" or 4-1/4" or whatever makes the spacing even.