Extreme budget 1600 VW engine build
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- čas přidán 22. 11. 2019
- This is for guys who dont have much money who want to build their engine Diy at home ideas on what can work of course the risk is your time. But if you dont have much money here are some ideas of how to build your own engine.
Machine work available at
/ 158542860835505 #rusty #vw #mike f #metal work #volkswagen #vw repair - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I meant to say 1.25 rockers for the web 86 cam
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I was dumb lost the password. I would love any assistance you can give me!
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I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@@mosesdominic9827 I dont even use instagram
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Hello Mike, Wanted to say i built my 1st. VW aircooled way back in 1980 and it was a single port 1600, W110 Engle cam, 30pict carb. 009 dist. It also sported the "Monza" Dual tip Header as well. I Thank You for bringing back some old memories. I'm still working on them now and enjoy all of your video content. Great job !
This is exactly what I needed.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Blessings and more Blessings to you and your family
Good stuff Mike! Thanks for sharing! =)
Back in the olden days there was the "hippie " book for those with no "bread man" ha ha . Worked for me.
I have that book. Great read. Unfortunately, I still have little to no bread! Lol
Great video Mike, thanks for posting these. Very informative for the backyard mechanic
yea we are hoping it helps the guys with nobody around them to learn from.
I restarted video and took a drink every time you said "feel" it! Great video!
Great info. Hope. It runs and runs and runs. Better than parts sitting.
Great to see what can be achieved on a poverty budget. Just shows you don't need big bucks to have fun with a VW.
I like your budget build. Makes me want to go thru my stack of old engines and build a turn key single port backup engine.
always gotta have a backup. I usually do.
Most of us here would like to have a VW Salvage Yard !!
Awesome video with plenty of tips 👊🏽😎
Awesome video!!! Thank you!!
I appreciate your work and presentation... Thanx
Hi man i'm brazilian and bug lover, i study to rebuild my vw beatle, thanks for ur video!
My first car was a '67 beetle with a 1500cc (stock) engine, having single-port heads. It was slow as the day is long.
For performance builds on the cheap, what to look for in a donor engine: 1600cc dual-relief case (with dual-port heads) from 1970 and later.
Mike, an example that could have been mentioned was when you noticed rods upside down. I know the forge mark goes up - but it's kinda hard to see that orientation, and you didn't say anything about how you knew it was wrong and what you did to correct it. I don't want to be too critical, but some of us have a lot to learn. Thanks again
My Father was Volkswagen mechanic and Service manager at a Volkswagen dealership he worked on Volkswagen 1955 to early 1970 we had lot of those green books with out guess work Volkswagen dealership had.
Sweet vid !
thanks for the comment
That filter is a great way to super heat your oil
Thanks Straight Ahead ✌😎
Nice job
Well thanks to you ct and mustie 1 I have the VW bug no pun intended lol I really really really want to get a vintage beetle .
wow nice fast build !
stock is much faster than stroker.
Not much help on aircooled where i live. Trying to figure all this out as i go so this video is golden to me. Thanks and cant wait for the next video. Liked and subscribed.
alright you guys are who I am making this for the most. Some guys have parts and or shops around to get help from and guys like you have youtube. So There will be many more videos on this stuff coming. With these videos and a book you should be good to go.
You mentioned a 6v/12v flywheel. I'd like to get a '66 Ghia flywheel . They had a 6v starter gear w/ 200 MM clutch an can be used on 13oocc and up cranks
Mike's used parts rebuilt is probably gonna last longer than the brand new long blocks I got from Roy Rogers back in the 90s 🤣
A problem never mentioned with volkswagen beetles is replacing the clutch cable. If the yoke assembly at the engine end was re-designed and properly lubricated the cable would,nt break, but I found that I had to cut a hole in the chassis tunnel to hook the cable on the clutch pedal, then weld a patch on to cover the hole. Quite a long job.
The car has many access ports that are simply a larger plate held down with a screw, remove the screw pull the plate do your repair, reset screw! A weld is indeed extra work!
My beetle has 190k miles on the original clutch cable. Unless this problem is specific to earlier cars, I dont see an issue with them
The clutch Boden tube has (yes EVERYONE) a small hole in the classic end. This is the grease hole to lub the cable with a grease gun needle every service.
You lost your patience 😊
I like to watch it often because iam have 'g 1.6 bettle 1969 maybe I may do it 't same way you do anyway 😊
Hi. Nr1 piston is upsidedown, the arrow on the piston shall point to the flywheel. Reason for arrow it because wrist pin is offset a few thousands to one side to help prevent wrist pin slap. But nice video on the enginebuild! Fun to watch.
yea we caught it. That motor RIPS. for a 16 single. faster than a stock dual port for sure.
Love your site. Can you recommend a supplier for pistons and heads. Maybe they would come in a top end rebuild kit with gaskets and pushrod tubes. . Its for a 72 dual port engine. Where would you buy from. Im on a budget. I dont need performance parts. Just stock stuff. Im in NY Any help is appreciated. thanks Joe
14:06 Another way I just used successfully: Heat up the gears with a heat gun. Didn't really expect it to work, but it did!
nice one. never thought of that.
Hey Mike! I am putting a parts list together to build my first aircooled engine, What book would you recommend I have to help me along my rebuild?
Seems like someone could make a mold of Subaru heads, and cast a set of Subaru/VW hybrid heads, and convert to overhead cams, 4valves per hole,. Would be a serious gain, especially if something like v-tec can be incorporated, possibly variable cam timing, with dohc, being able to change the cam timing, as well as go from a 180°-190° @.050" love with . 440" lift to a larger 270°-280° @ .050" and about 525" lift love, on the fly, as well as changing LSA and timing events, it can give max low end TQ to about 3k rpm, then swap lobes, and have a curve programmed in to allow max performance from 3k RPM, to 6k maybe 7k rpm plus, with 4340 crank and rods, light weight pistons, conical or beehive springs with titanium followers and retainers, the valve train could do 10k plus, tool steel cam cores, also being everything is being changed on the heads, the Ports could be setup for low end and high end, have two intake ports per cylinder, closing one to get velocity and swirl for low end performance, maybe have different lobes and port specs for low end and one for top end, closing the large port for low end performance, design a intake with a 1.25" long runners for low end, possibly fed from the opposite bank, then a straight shot 2.25" Dia. port about 5"-7" from valve to plenum,. With about 70mm throttle blade, with either a carb or EFI, have about . 3 cuft plenum, with a 350 Holley 2bbl carb on each bank, with the plenum bolting on to the short and long runners feeding the opposite banks small port, then the opposite side doing the same, but opposite, basically being a 4pc intake, allowing a throttle valve to open in the base of the plenum, possibly using a cable connected in a progressive style linkage, to open the large runner at about 40% throttle, and be easily adjusted to about 75% use a cable linkage between the carbs and power port valves, I believe a 2 litre engine could make the same power as a stock or slightly tuned EJ-25, and with boost, the dual exhaust ports per cylinder should evacuate the cylinders excellently, the simple dual pattern intake lobes with intake port valves, over a v-tec type system, a variable cam timing would be best with a ECM control, the throttle activation of the power port should be fine, especially if you learn how to drive and use it, maybe use a vacuum gauge to help judge when to open it, having a lobe on demand with a extra 80° duration, and.100" lift and possibly a slightly different event timing, alot of difference could negatively effect performance, it should be close as possible to an on / off as possible because a half open valve isn't going to work well, but the power should be 150+ over a stock engine, and 225 HP should be easy without any adders, maybe 250 HP at about 6800, I believe 6800 is about the peak even with trick rods and crank, light pistons, maybe they could be setup for watercolor heads maybe water cooled cylinders as well, or liquid cooled, using the non water coolant, use finger followers, to get a decent ratio over love lift, and possibly use a damper. With pulley on it, so there can be room for a timing belt, better would be an aluminum housing to bolt on to house a chain and the guides, and oiling, and the drain I believe a turbo intercooled engine like this, could make 200-250 per liter easy street able, maybe the small port is too small, maybe 1.625 should be better, with an power port being 2"-2.125 with nearly a 100 mm bore, dual 1.84 maybe 1.94" valves could be possible, and 1.50" exhaust valves, maybe a 184 and 2.00" intake valve can be fitted, with 1.55" exhaust valves , with nicely shaped ports, with a dual o-ringed nearly flat cam cover, the ports should be tall and straight as possible, to flow the best they can, with a straight shot to the valve and the center of the cylinder as they can, the flow should be careful to not de disrupted by the other low speed ports, they must work together, complementary to one another, the. Small port needs to be high velocity, and create a swirl in the cylinder, when opened the large port, needs to dump into the cylinder, and the sigh swirl should not cut or restrict flow, it would probably require at least a month of testing on a flow bench to modify the ports to not disturb each other, with a 5 angle seat setup, it will probably be best to keep the valves identical, only the intake runners changing the flow,. The activation could be done by closing the small port intake runners, allowed the large power ports to do their thing , I could see 280 cfm minimum from such a port, the v-tec would be awesome gain 80° duration, and .100" lift by closing a valve , allowing oil pressure to lock a follower, it would be awesome to have it setup so it can idle on the big cam, and soon as it's revved to about 800 RPM, the small cam is back to make TQ, until about 3k to 3600+/-, it would be an awesome setup!! I'm dreaming crazy I know, it would require ppl who know automotive machining, and casting , engineering,. Not just a mechanic with some ideas, but maybe modify Subaru heads to fit a VW, and water cool them, bolt a plate to the bores, then the head to the plate, crazy to even think it, i know !!! But dreaming of 4v per hole, and flow 310cfm at .500" would be awesome!!
Love your videos fellows. I’ve got a 68 bug made into a dune buggy. If I change to a 1600 pretty beafed up will the trans stand it. Thanks
It will until it doesn't, then you find a wrecked Porsche! If
i love everything air cooled
hello, I'm the middle of building one of these, what sealant are you using for the case halves?
Is it worth extra Bucks for the 🐘 feet style rocker tips on a stock single port or would they make no noticeable difference, thanks.
Mike, did you not mention torque specs on rods because you said "use your books" several times? And the high speed sequence installing rings and jugs gave no helpful tips. (Like the shim you said it needed for right deck height. )I felt you could have taught us more intricate details... Just wondering. But - I really do appreciate all you did say and shared. Good video. Thanks!
at 10:47 there is a small bit of steel baffle on the head, I got some new heads and they don't have that. Is that something I really should have or need? My old heads only had it on one side.
Theoretically, lapping valves doesn’t work. Because when the engine warms up, there’s expansion and possibly contraction of the related parts. So the lapped part of the valve and seat will not mate exactly where they did when cold.when doing a grind, the valve has a wider sealing area to compensate for this. I Suppose if you can see the exact seating area before lapping, then you will know if the correct spot is being lapped. Also, maybe it’s just not an issue on some engines. I have not done a vw yet. But on all the bigger Diesel engines I rebuilt, this was a factor. Just saying.
FYI this motor RIPS all over a stock dual port.
Which direction does piston arrow point? Where are the cooling tins above pushrod tubes?
My next project !!!
I wish Mike was my neighbor..I'll have him help me w/ my Cal-Looker all the time .
youtube is the next best thing. you can watch and learn and also contribute by comments. also guys reply to you to help you as well.
@@Mikefngarage if he was my neighbor. my bus body work would have been done by me years ago. OCd and I mind screw everything till I give up.
@@zundfolge1432 yea for sure I am trying to break that cycle. so many guys go there.
kind of how I built my engine mostly used and rebuilt parts I think the original parts were the best, did you put cool tins on this one ?
not at this point but when we find some carbs I will put dual port heads on it and cool tin. you bet. and maybe that merged system because it will go in one of the bugs for demo.
Hey man do you guys sell and ship these motors?
Amigo en el minuto 31 veo las bielas puestas con la marca de forja para abajo y creo debe ser puesta para la parte de arriba. Saludos
Hola. Si tienes razón...las marcas deben ir hacia arriba...Edo es lo que he investigado y me han enseñado. Buen comentario!
The bearing pin goes towards the crankshaft ...?
Hi Mike when should you use cylinder base gaskets
Brill vid by the way.
Mat.
we use silicone. unless we need that .oo5 gasket for a shim.
@@Mikefngarage thanks Mike
Before watching the next one, let me comment: it will run for sure!!
hi great vid i just got a 1835 engine can i go bigger barrels without head and block machining ?? thanks man
You'll need the case and the heads "fly-cut" for the larger cylinders. Another option to increase displacement is more stroke. (as opposed to more cylinder volume)
u forgot the center main bearing
You only expect 20k out of that??
i see your rear seal is flush with the end of the case or it appears that way from my view , i had such a hard time years ago with oil leaks everyone was saying the seal goes flush with the case i was getting leaks like crazy no one gave me the correct answer my flywheel is tapered so my seal has to go in the recess of the case ,,,,,then i read the book and for sure my book said push it in the recess , no more leaks after that ,,,,i was amazed the even so called experts made that mistake ,,,but i am noticing something here if your flywheel is not tapered ,, then the seal would probably work flush with the case ,,,,can you understand where i am coming from ? thanks just saying i went crazy with that years ago ,,,,too old for that lol
how to get the notch in the bearings? dremel?
No I just fired up the Is Valve grinder
Hi all
As a review on costs
What was the full cost please
And if we wanted to complete this build
What would be the total outlay please
Provisionally How long would this engine last
I am making a plan for next Spring on my 1975 bus
Which is not reliable currently.
I need to make up my mind on a full reconditioned motor or a rebuild
Cheers
Keith in the UK
this one because all the parts except bearings and a few misc parts is $100 but if you needed machine work done it would be much more than that. We are expecting at least 20k miles. out of it but it could do more. depends on the issues with that case. All the parts are within spec so theoretically it should do at least 50k.
Hi Mike, I have seen that you have welds on the housing. How can you weld Magnesium? Is there a special setup?
tig. I wont even try it can catch fire.
Mike Fn Garage Thanks, yes thats what I think as well. Just wondering how the other guys did it without burning the housing down
I have done it before on motorcycle cases. I think it was a little back stitch at a time with Argon post flow.
Im new to the VW scene, I have a 1968 vw beetle, i bought it off the original owner after it had sat for 30 years, after getting it running and driving around for a couple months, the motor lost compression in cylinder 3, had the fuel pump go bad, and i believe some of the valves are stuck open, how much would you say it would cost to get it rebuilt at a shop in California? I am savvy with cars and can do the work i just do not trust myself with an engine, given the conditions i live in
I think basic rebuilds start at about 1200 now. most of the time they go up to about 2000 with new heads and some extra machine work. call these guys they are about the best value.
www.performanceworkshop.net/
@@Mikefngarage thank you so much! What would you say about a shop that sells engines with core swaps? I have 2 engines, one is a seized 1835 that was given to me after the gentleman developed dementia, and the 1600 thats in the car, would you say it is legit?
@@Advtr.ram69 they are good people and will do the right thing. Keep in mind many engines are not good cores. even if they turn over. The cases are often out of size or cracked. But you can trust them with that. If they can do an exchange that is fine. will be a good engine. Another source if you want a turn key engine swapped is Brothers VW machine shop. www.google.com/search?q=brothers+vw+machine+shop&rlz=1C1RXQR_enUS928US928&oq=brothers+vw+machine+shop&aqs=chrome..69i57j46i175i199j0.8418j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 they do not work on or install them but rebuild yours. Both highly trusted people.
Ok I have a 74 super beetle 1600cc engine I was told I couldn’t use a Engle 110 because I had to have a dished camshaft because of the cb performance oil cooler I installed is that true because in your video you all put the same camshaft I was told I couldn’t and you all have the cb performance oil cooler as well??
I knew that the rods were upside down since you had it standing up on the flywheel? I had a better motor ? I found it under 3 feet of leaves , 4 feet of mud ?????????????????
yea as soon as it hit the case I saw the rod markers. I wasnt watching till it hit the case. ha ha.
this one will run great too. even these poverty specials run. probably wont have any leaks May put it in the blue or green car just to demo a drive. Plus looking at swap meets for upgrades. need carbs for dual port. I am fresh out. got 3 sets of heads though.
Stop being a douche and just enjoy the video
Did it run OK mate im interested as I can't find video
Yea faster than a stock dual port by far. and more torque. great combo. porting the exhaust was huge. substitute with engle 110 or web 86 with or without ratio rockers.
@@Mikefngarage nice im building a 1600 std with 110 cam with dual carbs im looking at how may sound and idle
At 48:00 I never saw the lower cylinder air deflectors go in? Critical mistake, if you didn't.
Oh no they are under there. I am not sure why we might have missed putting that in the video. I usually use Cool tin too but on the extreme budget We used stock deflectors. The cool tin do work better especially with merged exhaust I would say pretty much a must on those.
Glad to hear you put them in. I watched it twice and never saw them. You know how the cylinders overheat and warp without them.
@@Mikefngarage maybe just drill a pair of holes in the stock tin?
Can you supply me the Part number of the Camsaft followers part number the flat head type
Why not use “Hydraulic Lifters “ ?
10:00 it actually is "galleries" not "galleys"
How can i turn a beetle engine to 1/2 vw engine?
I've seen this done for small planes am also interested in how they work
The connecting rods were incorrectly installed, the forged mark on the shank of connecting rods must be upwards the piston pin bearings offset 1 mm in relation to the connecting rod bearing.....
yea we flipped them put a camera on and you get distracted.
All I'm gonna say is 30 min 50 seconds should tell all of you what's Really happening
Do u have a facebook?
Mike fn garage on facebook
80 omg of time and ANY MONEY
Hai montato le bielle al contrario 🤦🏻♂️
Si, monto las bielas al revés. La marca del vaciado va hacia arriba...
You mounted the connecting rods upside down 🤦🏻♂️
Axl Look sure did
@@keithwagner6422 I don't know, I would like to see the engine running 🤦🏻♂️,
And then the crankcases crack
You're lacking Is 4 cylinders
Holy hell what is going on in the vw industry
I'm sorry but this did not need to be an hour looooooong! Someone's in love with the sound of his own voice!
You babble on to much repeating yourself seven times this case has been repaired but it's ok for a budget rebuild once is enough you do this with every little thing boring you just just love to hear yourself talk jeez enough is enough
love to see you make a video. harder than it looks. you babble too much on your comment. maybe you should shut your mouth and make a video
Rick Garibaldi I agree, take it as criticism to improve your videos don't be a dick
@@Mikefngarage I enjoy the babble. Makes it feel like you're there and more genuine. Different strokes for different folks i guess.....
Painful to watch ,solo slow commentary ,repeating over and over the blindingly obvious,would never trust an engine cobbled together by this guy ,musti one must be shuddering !! Wow
You talk way too much.uhh
This guy talks too much.