REBUILDING A LS3 OUT OF A 6.0 - Part 1
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- čas přidán 4. 07. 2024
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How to Check PTV Clearance - • How to Check PTV Clear...
How to Measure Bearing Clearance - • Measuring Bearing Clea...
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I’m so glad I found out you have a channel from your comment on muscle rods channel.
Love engine building.
Thanks for a nice executed video..
I am a first timer trying to understand the basic’s of ls engines, 22years in the bodyshop industry has me wanting to ls swap two of my chevy Suburbans & I am determined! Thanks 🙏🏼
Awesome videos, ur an expert if I have ever seen one
Lmao 😂. Awesome if you don’t know what’s going on here
My new favorite engine building channel! Do you degree your camshafts or is that not necessary?
dude im going to be watching this series for a bit, just comp locked my L76, sooo balls to the wall now, gunna build it to not die again with boost
Jacob,
It would be nice if you went over the overboring of the 6.0L to 4.070. The to look out for. What thickness of the cylinder walls are you hoping for being N/A. I would assume boost would be out of the question. What is the max bore for boost? 4.030?
Thanks
Badass build brother!!! How much meat do you have left on the cyl walls after the overbore?
Very Nice work!
I’m curious why you measure the clearances with a bore gauge w/o the crank installed? I’ve always torqued the caps with the crank installed. Then used pasti to measure the clearances. I’ve never been able to get as accurate of a reading with a bore gauge for oil clearances. Also make sure to check the pump cover clearance if re-installing a pump.(i assume your’s was new). Also surprised you checked OOTH clearance w/o torquing down the rods on the crank. It’d surely change some. But ballpark for gasket thickness is all you’re looking for anyway... more than one way to skin a cat. It’s good to see a builder that actually has a clue about proper engine assembly. I cringe at most of the others. Keep up the good work!
Agreed, it's a time saver that can eat your ass later... also not really a prefect TDC if the rod isn't tq'd to the crank with proper bearing clearance 🤔
Otherwise this yougin seems to be ahead of the curve
If you only use plastigauge, you won't know the actual size of the hole relative to the O.D. of the corresponding crank journal.
lol... You gotta kidding me.
What are you on?
Thanks for the information looking to put one in a Cadillac CTS any suggestions for me
I'm conflicted about the .070 over on the bore. I respect Jacob and his work. I also respect Richard Holdener and he says you don't want to go even .065. Who to believe???
I haven't watched the whole video just yet, but have you gone over what the min. wall thickness should be when attempting to bore a Gen IV 6.0L iron block to 4.065" /LS3 Specs? What would the max. bore size if one was going to put a LSA SC on it ? Will it change if you stroke it too? 4.0"
thanks
Is boring a 6.0 65-70 over fine or do u have to sonic check each cylinders? I really want to do this but the couple shops I went to all are saying no just do 30 over that's it. All said I'm crazy trying to do 65-70 over.
Really enjoying all of the content your putting out, keep it up. From your extensive experience building engines, if you wanted to buy a 5.3 LS where would you go? This could be rebuild crate engine, used with all accessories attached or other? I look forward to your future videos.
Personally I would buy used. Determine if it needs a rebuild (most don’t if they come out of running vehicles) and then go from there!
@@JacobVillemain awesome, thank you for replying. Do you know of a good place here in Houston or would most salvage yards be the best bet?
@@grantbassford33 check around on the Houston LS Facebook Groups, there are a couple part out shops that have good cores available.
@@JacobVillemain Sounds good, I'm looking forward to more of your videos as I get ready to build my engine. Thanks again.
Any worries of cylinder wall thickness by boring that far on a stock cast block? I have seen guys say it's ok, next guy says it should be sonic tested first, next guy says they cracked all the cylinders after doing this........
you ever drill & pin the front timing cover?
how much cylinder wall thickness was left after the .070 bore on the 6.0 motor?
did you use a rod bearing on the rod when checking deck height?
Had a question. While these type of pistons (k447x3) work with ls3 heads?
Any experience with using edelbrock pro flo xt ls3 intake in a N/A application?
What grease do you put on your engine stand? That thing spins like butter lol
Another pritty nice job from you! What happened to the 528" Hemi? Will the engine continue to be built? And will you make another video of it? I really Hope so! 😍
That motor has actually already been completed and is out the door! Sorry for not filming the rest 😬
OK. This is a pity. I would have been very interested! Can you please tell me which cylinder heads (?ported/cleanout?) and camshaft you have installed? Do you have some dyno data from the engine? I would estimate it at 700ps and 700lb-ft. Good job man and thanks in advance!
You are able to take a 6.0L iron block out to 4.070? That would pretty much make it a Ls3/L92 correct? Well without it actually being a LS3
What pistons did you use? I'm looking to do a 12:1 ls3 using the factory crank with a 6.125 rod. I'm having trouble a with piston selection. Suggestions are appreciated.
How many times you bore out a 6.0 iron block to 4.070 bore? I want to bore my 6.0 to 4.030.
Do you remember what rods you used in this build ?
Whats the spec on the heads and cam?
What do you recommend the max overbore on a 6.0 block? Lookin to do a stroker on a healthy shot (350+) possibly boost at some point, and haven’t messed with more then stock bore stuff up till now in the ls platform
Why do you torque from one side of the to the other? I thought you go in sequence starting from the middle work outward. I really aint sure thats why im asking! New to this stuff but from what few videos ive watched thats what everyone says to do.
Are the cylinder walls too thin for boost or nitrous on a build like this?
Could I do this with a LQ9? Like Bore over to 6.2 ? And ls3 top end?
Ever build a de-stroked LS? Around here T56s are just way to expensive. But I can get an FS6R31A (good to ~500ft-lb) for $160
So I'm after a higher RPM lower torque build.
I have not, it's against my religion
I am so glad I stumbled on to your channel!!!! You have incredible content and it is crazy that you do not have at least a million subs! Quick question, I just put together my first LM4 aluminum 5.3L short block and I bought a nice billet true roller timing set and installed it. It went on fine but there is almost no play what so ever in the chain. You said in this video the aluminum block will expand so will that cause an issue in my timing set putting strain on my new cam shaft if there is little to no slack? There is tons of info about timing chains being too loose with LS online but I can not find anything about it being to tight. I know you are a busy man but any info would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry to be off topic but does any of you know a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow forgot my password. I love any tricks you can give me
@Pierce Spencer Instablaster :)
@Kyson Bruce i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Kyson Bruce it worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my ass!
@Pierce Spencer you are welcome :)
If the bearing is too loose, why are you going to smaller bearings???
What brand tool are you using to check clearance?
Why were the Main bearings loose?
What kind of clearance do you like on a ls2 block on boost?
What rebuild kit did you used
I've heard the sleeve jacket in this cast iron block is pretty thin, is that true ?
What are part numbers on the pistons and camshaft thanks
I thought 6 feeler gauges were used when setting clearances for the oil pump gears?
I thought the crank pulley had to be installed before the timing cover was torqued down?
Yup, and degreeing a cam?, checking thrust with a long podge bar not a hammer if you were to have a dial indicator on the end of the crank...
are you using stock main bolts?
😎😎😎
love your info, u explain better than most guys on CZcams. but i do have a question. i am doing a cam swap in a l99, the heads are off and its on a stand i torqued the cam bolts to the proper number and its really hard to spin over if i back off the timing gear bolts it spins good like it did before i polled the original cam. is there something i need to check or change or is it ok ?
Did you ever figure it out?
@@ufcpubg1964 yes i used a cam sprocket that had a bearing
Hi Jacob,
Can please review the high pressure lube that you prefer over ARPs bolt lube that you previously mentioned?
Thanks
Yes! I have a fun video planed to compare different types of thread lubricant.
@@JacobVillemain THANK YOU VERY MUCH !!!
how much charge
Cam specs
how much do you charge
Degree in the cam? No?
12:06
Why is the movement of the piston going down so very lightly?
I was lowering it onto the crank journal by hand to check deck height.
Do you recommend any books to rebuild a ls3? Im not in the usa but would like to build my own motor.
David Vizard ... Look Him Up ...
What Timeing do you use? Ls2 or katech cr5
Rollmaster
For a DIY or novice engine builder, what tools would you say are essential?
Really nice torque wrench and dial bore gauge! With those two tools you can build anything
@@JacobVillemain like how nice of a torque wrench? I have a 3/8 Snap-On digital wrench and a 1/2 inch e-Tork click type.
@@JacobVillemain Any suggestions for a dial bore gauge for the DIYer checking behind a machine shop? The Sunnen sets with fixture are thousands of dollars. Hard to justify that expense for someone not doing it for a living.
@@JmanRx81 i would get a 1/2 digital torque wrench from snap on as they have torque to angle built in and these ls motors use that allot, im sure other brands have that feature built in as well but thats just what i use.
So the whole main cap sequence doesn’t really matter or???
Nope
Who did the grind on the cam?
Lunatic Garage in San Antonio spec’d it out
I’m in the process of freshening up my 6.0l ls2. I’m going to change the pistons from a -12 dish to Wiseco Pro Tru Street Pistons
PTS523AS. I’m running the summit pro ls rods with stock crank. I want to go to a ls3 style head. What would you recommend? The truck is running a 85mm turbo
I would run our 11* LS3 cylinder head!
smedingperformance.com/collections/cylinder-heads/products/260cc-cnc-ls3-cylinder-heads?variant=39309244792890
@@JacobVillemain Looks like those are a 6 bolt head. I’m using a stock lS2 block. When do you think you’ll get the cast heads in stock?
@@jonathanmoore5112 6 bolt heads can be installed on a 4 bolt block…
hi that engine guy i lost hearing from a job i use to have and every seance January first haft the time i'm getting a caption not available for this video so question I'm wondering if you could get in touch with you tube and see why there not caption you're video's like they should this shit only started after Jan 1 this will cost you more viewer's than you know or is system not set up for caption??? well let me know what's going on with no caption being deaf I rely on caption and i am interested in what you have to say and teach if you get the caption working and let me know when you have the caption working and I will come back to watch thank you :-)
I thought you were supposed to tighten the cap studs from the middle out?
It doesn't matter on LS platform.
@@JacobVillemain thanks for the answer, I did not know that. Darn if I lived by your shop I’d work for free, just for the knowledge. Have a great day.
How much do you charge for a rebuild or does it depend
Please view our website for LS Rebuild info
Build me a motor any day 👍🙏
I’ve been wanting to build a poor man’s LS3 out of a spare 6.0 I have….
Lol I work at the Romulus plant. I don’t know why you are shimming the oil pump. They slap it on and call it a day. No shims required. The literally put the pump on spin the engine once and torque it down.
I believe OEM factory oil pumps have a self-align feature and turning the engine over sets it.
Everything I see says you can't bore a 6.0l to 4.065 because the cylinder walls would be too thin did you have to sleeve the block??
Naturally aspirated it most likely would be fine. You would still want to sonic check the bores just because of the differences in castings. On a boosted setup you would want to only bore it if you needed to clean up the bores. The more meat the better in that case because it helps keeps the cylinders round when under pressure and heat.
they just recommend not to do it because there are the ones that fail. so no one is going to risk their rep saying yes its fine to do it to every engine and then when it fuckes up the same dudes are coming back crying saying that you said this would be fine and blah blah so its just easier and safer to say its not recommended to do it. just like certain parts can easily exceed 500 horsepower but they still recommend that setup as good for 500 pounds. Its like the older 4.6 mustang motors they recommend not going over 500 because of the pistons yet you get on a forum and theres plenty of people pushing well past it but then theres also people who went 15 horses over and busted so when you have situations like that its best to just say its not good over 500 pounds. sure some or many go exceeded but thats the level where you start to get into how well the block was taken care of and all these other factors that arent going to be the same across all the blocks. same with t56 trannys they are recommended to what 5-600 horsepower yet theres guys out there powershifting them with 1000whp and beat them daily and have over 6 months of daily driving and weekend racing but tremec or other companies that sell them arent going to market them being 1000whp becuase thats not standard and when your in business you dont want to be making false claims and having people come back and threatening to sue and just all the other headache plus depending on where you live they could actually have a legit case against you and you could then be liable for all the damage that happened if the car was in that power range you said it was able to run in and it broke so its always better to undershoot and have something as critical as the engine end up being over built instead of running on the upper power limits and having more maintenance as parts dont live as long
@@ls87gbody yup and honestly if your running boost the power gain from the bore wouldnt even be that noticeable or be that much of an approvement when you can just run stock bore or slightly freshened up and just ran a couple more pounds of boost to get the power gain that you would see from the engine bore not to mention turning up the boost would save a lot more money since you arent pulling the block and then taking it apart or paying someone to do it then machine it and then you have to buy fatter pistons now so thats another cost then you gotta reassemble it and install the motor when you could have changed a spring or hooked up a computer and put a few more pounds of boost in and achieved more power and costed you less money and way less time for the same result, well actually it wouldnt be the same because then you still would retain the thickness of the bores so you would have a safer engine by turning the boost up vs boring. if your that determined to get some more cubes just throw a 4" stroker in the 6.0 and have 408CI (boring and stroking only gives you a 416 anyways so the bored job is only gaining you a minimal 8 cubic inches. i would say that is far from worth the time and the money if you were wanting a higher powered motored by for this instance and only wanting to stay around 600 there arent issues and arent seeing the same pressure in the engine as you would with forced induction
@@Dreadz530 You still have to bore .030 over on a 6.0 to get a 408, and bore .060 over for a 416. And of course plus the prior mentioned 4 inch crank.
@@reginaldneal5317 .065 you mean, right?
Where are you located?
San Antonio
Shop name?
Smeding Performance/That Engine Guy
Just question man. Did you go to school to learn to build engines?
.070 over on a 6.0. Come on 🧐🧐🧐🧐🧐🧐🧐
I mean com'on!
Can that really be done? If so...I want an iron LS3!
@@79_Trucker there is no iron ls3 factory Block. This is a misleading title.
You can bore a 6.0. .060 but you really want to stay at .030. And definitely not .070. This was stupid to do to a customers block.
Leaves the cylinders too thin and can cause lots of problems and if anything happens the block is junk.
Just did this with a gen 4 6.0 with a 2.3 whipple on it makes right at 700whp no issues. Honestly the sleeves are still thicker than a ls3 block people like to comment on what they heard. I did it, it worked .. more than once
America 🇺🇸 💪🏼🤙🏼🔧🔩🔨
Way to check that valve timing and cam events.......just line the dots and let it fly, even if the intake centerline is off a few degrees. Amateurish.