MYSTERIES of Hot Rod Rear Suspension REVEALED!!! Radius Rods? Ladder Bars? Hair Pins?

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  • čas přidán 26. 09. 2022
  • Thanks to everyone who subscribes, likes, and comments! Maybe one small click for you, but every one is a Giant Leap for the Channel... And its Free!...Jackpot
    Alright Gang... rear radius rods, hair pins, ladder bars... whatever you wanna call them is the subject of great debate... Especially when it comes to hot rods... boy howdy. lets dive in... see if we can figure this out
  • Auta a dopravní prostředky

Komentáře • 21

  • @TheKinemat
    @TheKinemat Před 4 měsíci

    Best explanation about the subject, showing facts and doubts about the entire rear end system! Congratulations!!

  • @user-yu6px4xp1u
    @user-yu6px4xp1u Před rokem

    Thank you that's the best Explanation I've found..I'm no fabricator..and I'm building me and my misses a trike..was going to use a monoleaf spring on it and you're video has helped me understand about the radius arms so well...thank you and have subscribed..

    • @betweenthesharksgarage
      @betweenthesharksgarage  Před rokem +1

      thanks a lot for subscribing that really helps me back. I am glad it helps. its a lot to take in... but once you get it I am sure youll be able to make your suspension work

    • @user-yu6px4xp1u
      @user-yu6px4xp1u Před rokem

      Thanks.really am thick as a plank lol..but really understood what's involved in this style of set up..thanks again.learnt so much

  • @RMcDuffee55
    @RMcDuffee55 Před rokem

    Great job! I recently bought an old rod that has problems in this area. Really helps me understand this type suspension. Thanks alot.

    • @betweenthesharksgarage
      @betweenthesharksgarage  Před rokem +1

      Glad it helped. Thank for taking the time. The rear end has lots of different forces acting on it … but once you grasp it you’ll be able to sort out what’s causing your problems

  • @MikeMiller-fc2cc
    @MikeMiller-fc2cc Před 6 měsíci

    They"re not speed holes. They are called lightening holes or swiss cheese holes. Parts swiss cheese PROPERLY also help strengthen the part. Swiss cheesing was developed during WW11, for the aircraft industry

  • @jpalberthoward9
    @jpalberthoward9 Před rokem

    The lights are on, and somebody's home, cool.

  • @knutbkristiansen
    @knutbkristiansen Před rokem

    Awesome video broder

  • @chuckburns7361
    @chuckburns7361 Před 10 měsíci

    Did you check to see if the hairpins were the same length? I've run into identical pieces that weren't. Also springs settled with use. I've always struggled with how simulate that when setting up suspensions.

    • @betweenthesharksgarage
      @betweenthesharksgarage  Před 10 měsíci

      That’s interesting. I do my initial set up by laying them on top of each other. But that’s for sure something to look out for

  • @johnkranz4004
    @johnkranz4004 Před rokem

    Excellent job your doing

  • @Dec3.1903
    @Dec3.1903 Před 4 měsíci

    Front hairpins used on the back?? You need to start over.

  • @AJStarch
    @AJStarch Před rokem

    Are the hairpins all that you’re using? Any concern that you might need a torque arm or panhard bar? As you know there is no end of internet hot rodders with opinions on this… it’s a lot to digest. I’m using 37-40 rear radius rods so I’m thinking I may need some kind of torque arm even with a mild flathead.

    • @betweenthesharksgarage
      @betweenthesharksgarage  Před rokem +1

      That’s the plan. Fair question though
      As far as the torque arm
      With the hairpin mounted to the top and bottom on the axle tube. The top is in extension during acceleration( axle trying to roll up) and the bottom is in compression. The top functions much like a torque arm in this case … and it’s not gonna stretch.
      The stiffener creates a mini truss to resist bending/yield.
      And you’re a particular case AJ I would run at torque arm with the spring over axle and 40 radius rods. But The radius rods were just not meant to have that type of force applied and they will bend a bit under hard acceleration. That said I don’t think you could break them (from accelerating)unless you were routinely drag racing or something like that. And odds are something else would give it up first. I think your set up will work just fine. And a torque arm is cheap insurance
      As for the pan hard bar. I have never had an issue in a light car with a transverse spring. It’s certainly not a bad idea if you set it up right. For anyone reading the goal of the pan hard bar is to keep the axle centered with the frame and body(right to left ) . And in my experience the leaf spring does that just fine on its own in a street car model a or t.
      I guess I will do a video on the mercury pan hard bar because the travel on those coil springs is dramatic. It had one factory and needs on for sure with the new suspension

    • @AJStarch
      @AJStarch Před rokem

      @@betweenthesharksgarage Thanks for the expanded thought process. I already decided my 40 rods need some backup but I’ve been struggling with the “how much” part and “the look”. I know a simple tube w/ heim joints would be easy and strong but they look out of place on a vintage style build (in my opinion) so I’ve been thinking out a more period looking solution using vintage parts. I’ve been wondering if it will be strong enough though… I know a lot of people run 40 bones by themselves and combined with your comment I now think my idea will be fine. Hopefully I’ll have a video on it by the end of the year. Thanks again!

    • @betweenthesharksgarage
      @betweenthesharksgarage  Před rokem

      @@AJStarch Hey man I have had my head in this problem for a while. You may not need as much as you think. First off any kind of torque arm that is mounted to the upper half of the axle will be in tension when you accelerate. meaning the axle will be trying to spin up as the wheels spin down trying to pull/stretch whatever you use as a torque arm, testing its tensile strength . The tensile strength of a standard 1/4" bolt (grade 2) is 75,000 psi. That will not be the first thing to break for sure. Plus, the torque arm mostly helps deal with the shock force that has to brake the friction of the tires on the pavement, once the car is rolling the force for the axle to spin upward decreases significantly. I think the biggest thing is getting the geometry right so that nothing ends up binding. I think that means that... when viewed from the side.... the torque arm and the radius rods pivot off the same point and thus share the same radius in profile. Otherwise I would imagine the rear end would have two pivot points forcing the rear end to try to move in two different arcs.... i think... or perhaps just weld the front of the torque arm to the front of one of your radius rods and let them share that pivot...sorta making a hairpin