am gonna use small hammer drill similar to his air attachement then a shroud with vacuum attatchment on a 7" grinder and remove thinset. praying it will work!
My tile have alot more holding down plus mess, so I don't know if this will work for me. I need to be able to get it pretty much down to bare wood. I think I need a bigger chisel. But I dont know, does anyone know. I have like and inch or more of stuff holding my tile to my kitchen floor. I need to know what works best to get it all up. Thanks this is a great video just looks so different.
If you haven't got around to this yet, check out Harbor Freight's Demolition Hammers. You can also rent a Hilti from Home Depot along with the chisels. Sorry I didn't respond promptly.
Yessir. If you continue on watching the videos in this series, you will see the entire kitchen was gutted. In some areas, down to the studs. The only thing I needed work under was rolling around the fridge, so I can keep fresh food.
The air chisel is great until you are removing slate tile which turns into a million small sharp pieces if you aren't lucky to get the entire tile up and a large dust cloud follows. I hate whoever glued slate tile to the subfloor in my house.
Yes - It was a dusty mess. After the first few passes, I encapsulated the entire kitchen in plastic from the rest of the house. And kept the kitchen windows open.
I hate to say it… But you’re going to be one of those old guys that can’t hear anything anyone saying. I hope you’re not against hearing aids. Or… You could just put on hearing protection for 299 at Harbor freight. That would be a good idea. By the way, thanks for the video it was very helpful.
Thanks for watching and commenting. The thin layer of wood you see me tear up is referred to as an underlayment. It acts as a base for the finished tile floor. Below the underlayment is the structural floor, (typically 3/4" plywood) which is nailed directly to the floor joists, referred to as your subfloor. The thin underlayment serves a few purposes especially when your finished floor will be tile. 1. It adds additional strength to the structural floor. Not that the 3/4" ply is not strong enough, but when laying tile, you want some kind of extra layer in there to attach the mortar to. This will help prevent cracked tiles. Nowadays, there are more advanced underlayments which I did go with in the new kitchen. 2. It adds an additional 1/4" to the floor which is necessary if an abutting finished floor is a different surface. For example, my kitchen butts up to my family room and dining room, both of which are finished with 3/4" oak hardwood. Well tile isn't 3/4" thick. By adding the underlayment + the mortar + the tile, your floor height where it meets up with the hardwood floor will be equal.
Because I was foolish enough to set up a tripod on the same floor i was destroying? I quickly learned and corrected myself in next clip! Thanks for watching.
Love the footwork at the end. Was like a mic drop for demolition.😁
Nice job mike! Can’t wait to see more man
Awesome video!
Appreciate it. Thanks for posting comments.
Not a lot of mastic left behind. Seems he could have used that subfloor after removing mastic.
am gonna use small hammer drill similar to his air attachement then a shroud with vacuum attatchment on a 7" grinder and remove thinset. praying it will work!
My tile have alot more holding down plus mess, so I don't know if this will work for me. I need to be able to get it pretty much down to bare wood. I think I need a bigger chisel. But I dont know, does anyone know. I have like and inch or more of stuff holding my tile to my kitchen floor. I need to know what works best to get it all up. Thanks this is a great video just looks so different.
If you haven't got around to this yet, check out Harbor Freight's Demolition Hammers. You can also rent a Hilti from Home Depot along with the chisels. Sorry I didn't respond promptly.
How did you get the tiles up that were under the kitchen cabinets? I'm assuming you removed the cabinets?
Yessir. If you continue on watching the videos in this series, you will see the entire kitchen was gutted. In some areas, down to the studs. The only thing I needed work under was rolling around the fridge, so I can keep fresh food.
The air chisel is great until you are removing slate tile which turns into a million small sharp pieces if you aren't lucky to get the entire tile up and a large dust cloud follows. I hate whoever glued slate tile to the subfloor in my house.
Yes - It was a dusty mess. After the first few passes, I encapsulated the entire kitchen in plastic from the rest of the house. And kept the kitchen windows open.
thats the Harbor Freight toy..use the Bosch Bulldog SDS Plus instead...save you 1/2 the time
I hate to say it… But you’re going to be one of those old guys that can’t hear anything anyone saying. I hope you’re not against hearing aids. Or… You could just put on hearing protection for 299 at Harbor freight. That would be a good idea.
By the way, thanks for the video it was very helpful.
I don’t know nothing about flooring, barely doing some renovating, why is there wood on top of the original flooring?
Thanks for watching and commenting. The thin layer of wood you see me tear up is referred to as an underlayment. It acts as a base for the finished tile floor. Below the underlayment is the structural floor, (typically 3/4" plywood) which is nailed directly to the floor joists, referred to as your subfloor.
The thin underlayment serves a few purposes especially when your finished floor will be tile.
1. It adds additional strength to the structural floor. Not that the 3/4" ply is not strong enough, but when laying tile, you want some kind of extra layer in there to attach the mortar to. This will help prevent cracked tiles. Nowadays, there are more advanced underlayments which I did go with in the new kitchen.
2. It adds an additional 1/4" to the floor which is necessary if an abutting finished floor is a different surface. For example, my kitchen butts up to my family room and dining room, both of which are finished with 3/4" oak hardwood. Well tile isn't 3/4" thick. By adding the underlayment + the mortar + the tile, your floor height where it meets up with the hardwood floor will be equal.
Ummmm.... hearing protection? As someone with hearing damage (tinnitus), I highly recommend protecting your hearing. Thanks for the video.
0:59 literally couldn't stop laughing 🤣
Because I was foolish enough to set up a tripod on the same floor i was destroying? I quickly learned and corrected myself in next clip! Thanks for watching.
oh my god, same, I honestly thought it was deliberate at first. Gold