Upgrading Everything on my Ender 3
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- čas přidán 9. 03. 2024
- My most ambitious video yet.
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I’ve uninstalled the mains bed for safety concerns, I’ll consider reinstalling it in the future once I receive proper parts. I appreciate everyone’s feedback on it. I’d like mention that this videos purpose was to try and upgrade “everything” not upgrade the most impactful parts. It’s not the best performance per dollar, there are more videos out there covering what the best value upgrades are. I can always recommend a leveling probe, mainboard upgrade (I’ve heard good things about kevinakasam’s dual z belt mod) and a hotend and extruder upgrade. There’s plenty to choose from, I’ll try and do a deep dive (with justification) on the topic in the future.
i tried to upgrade my biqu b1 with big tree tech board and the h2 and the printer just keeps missing 10cm even after calibrations
@@dorito24856 I’m not sure why that would happen, I’ve done several mainboard upgrades and extruder upgrades with minimal issues. Some fixes I’d look into would be E-steps for all axis, in case they got modified, and motor v-ref and current in case you’re missing steps. I hope you find the solution. Cheers
That little 220V silicone bed looks dangerous, bro.
It is, I am very careful around it, any mistakes could certainly be dangerous. I’ll be working on making it safer in my own time. Crimp connections are used when possible, however a thermal fuse is a recommended add on. I’ll look into it as I’d like to know as much as I can to increase knowledge and reduce risk. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Well, the first thing would be to have a really good clean surface for it to stick to. You should remove all that old insulation foam before sticking it on the bed for starters. Next would be insulation for those wires to prevent them from shorting out. TBH though, with such a small bed, 24v should be more than enough to heat up quickly in my opinion. On larger beds with thicker aluminum plates is when AC is really necessary.
@@wrxsubaru02 Good tips, I’ll look into some more cable sheathing/covers for my wires as I’m all out and it’s useful stuff. For a 235mm bed it’s not necessary using a mains heater, I just wanted to add it for the title and was a food excuse to try out. There’s a video I would like to do in the next few months where I install a silicone heater on a cabin fiber sheet as a lightweight alternative to an aluminium one, will hopefully be interesting for high speed printing on bedslingers.
@@TommyHoughtonget some RTV gasket sealant and put it around the edges of the pad, check how voron beds are assembled
I have a similar 220v 500w bed heater which is 300mm^2. Once I had the mcu on without the rpi powered. The mcu turned the bed on by itself and kept it on at 100% for a few minutes. I heard hissing sound from the other room, came back to find that my bed heater was about to melt my printer. Smokes were coming off and the heater almost detached from the bed. But its working fine even after that incident. I never operate it from far after that.
It's nice to look at a fellow maker that has no end-stops on creativity and fear of poking a multimeter in there. Keep up the good work.
Much appreciated! I’ll be a bit careful from now on of course haha. Cheers
Awesome video! Amazing editing/transitions as well!
Cheers Ryan! Super pleased with this one. All the best with your projects! (Will get to your email shortly)
Very professional looking video, Tommy - fascinating! 😀
Thanks Auntie!
What you can try for the speedbenchy is actually remove the rubber feet and pit it on small stiffer legs, for some reason the vibration of the printer and the bed can cancel each other out because the bed doesn't stop abruptly because the printer itself moves with it
Interesting, thanks for sharing that! I’m planning on doing more performance upgrades to the Ender 3 later this year, so I’ll try remembering this. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton the guy that made the 100 3d printer has a great explanation for it! It is on youtube
I’ll check it out! I’ve heard great things about that machine.
Great video, doing something similiar with my ender 3 max! So happy to see some similar ideas in here!
That's awesome to hear! I hope it goes well. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Thank you! I need it! I did the physical part of upgrading to a 400x400 bed, and now I need to buckle up and do the klipper install next!
Sounds great! I hope you've got a good levelling probe for that bed haha. Once you get the little config changes dialed in, it's a lot of fun. All the best
always love your videos tommy!!!
Thanks Misty!!
Cool upgrades!
Thanks! They were a lot of fun.
Cool edits. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Will do
Mad editing skills, mate! Keep those V-wheels rolling!
Thanks, will do!
I might have to do this to one of my Enders! I haven’t touched any of them since I got my X1C but would love to see how much they could be overhauled with upgrades. Great video and editing!
It's a lot of fun. The X1C is a great machine, plus you won't have to worry about printing parts when you're E3 is being worked on. Thanks! Cheers
I love your content, great as always
I appreciate the support!
You basically made all the features that the S1 pro has, I like it. Good job.
It would probably cost the same as one too. I hear it’s a good machine. Cheers
Amazing job
Thanks!
Nice upgrading my ender 3 soon hehe thanks for this
All the best with it! Cheers
The Biqu extruders are 👏👌
I’m actually really pleased with it! The only thing I didn’t like were the aluminium screws which were a bit fragile but might have been me.
Mine never worked, asked for a refund, and never got it. :( they ghosted me. That's what i get gor buying it from amazon.
I'm really sorry to hear that, that's more than frustrating. I hope something goes right to compensate.
nahh they are not responding they just kind of ghosted me this happened last year@@TommyHoughton
cant wait for the ender 5 build
I'm looking forward to it! I would really love to convert it to CoreXY, hopefully I can get in touch with Fabreeko regarding a mercury one kit. I'll keep planning it in the meantime. It'll be exciting! Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Just finishing up a mercuryone build my self, has been great. Will you do hydra aswell?
@@oliverbroadbent4255 That's awesome to hear, I've watched a lot on the build and it's definitely cool. I probably won't install Hydra, I'd only consider the build itself If I can get Fabreeko's attention for a kit. Otherwise I will convert to corexy, just a different way. There's quite a few options it seems, which is good. While the Mercury conversion seems quite easy, it's quite costly for me. Cheers
Great video! :D
Thanks, I appreciate it!
That effect at 2:40 was nice. I haven't seen that before. Good video!
Thanks! I really appreciate It! If you're referring to the "pull object from screen" trick, I've only seen it once or twice ever, it's quite a fun one though. I'm learning some new ones for my next video, It's going to be awesome. Cheers
I'm down for all this craziness
I hope to keep it going!
@@TommyHoughtonThe OG E3 feels like the model T of 3d printers, but i might sell my klipper one now that I’ve been trying a k1 max for a minute. Tech has really come up
Hey I did the same dual Z mod I recommend getting a belt to keep the motors synchronized. the 616mm is a little tighter than the 618mm but I use the 618 on my printer and it works perfectly.
or you could do what I did on my V2 and add a 5th stepper motor driver to the stock motherboard.
Good idea, I'll look into that.
That Production Quality Tho! and I'm Jealous of those electronics skills.
Thanks Scott! I put a lot of time into this one, I’m super pleased. The electronics took a while but it was all decently well documented which helped.
where did you source your linear rail? Ive thought about doing rail upgrade as well but keep getting told i need to find a reliable source
I got it from Aliexpress, It's probably not as good as a genuine one, but it seems to work fine for me. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004377144262.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.74.63511802QZA1mx
Hej cool, I also have an Ender 3 that I could upgrade.Thanks for the video!
No worries, all the best with your machine!
the silicone heated bed will heat up the bed quicker, which can lead to bed warping
You have a point, I’ll keep an eye on it or remove it depending on how things go.
i love this sm editing wise very scott yu jan core plus 10/10 cam work (PS PLEASE TELL ME IF I WROTE HIS NAME WRONG)
I really appreciate that! He’s a huge inspiration 😄 You got his name right. I believe he has a dash between his middle and last name (Yu-Jan) but you got it all right. I’ll be doing a similar style video in July with an Ender 5, I hope you’ll be able to check it out! Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Dude if u keep up with posting you will be there in no time!!!!!
@@COREMFC Thanks so much for the support! I really mean it when I say it makes my day 😄I’ve got some big projects planned that could change everything. I hope to see you around more often!
Nice upgrade :) At this point though i think its best to put that money on a better printer to start with... except for one thing: you learn a lot doing all those upgrades :) Nice videos and well made mate
Thanks Simon! You’re absolutely right on that, there’s diminishing returns after a while. I certainly learn a lot with the mistakes I make 😄 In July I’ll be releasing my video “Building The Fastest Ender 5 Pro” with a corexy conversion, LDO speedy motors, dragon ace hotend, auxiliary cooling and more. I’m extremely exited to begin; I’ve just started scripting. I’d be honoured if you checked it out in the future! Thanks so much for commenting :D It made my day. All the best with your projects! Cheers, Tommy
A question for the heated bed, would you guys say switching the heated bed is worth it on the ender 3 neo, or should i apply an insulation pad as i have seen multiple people run?
I wouldn’t say a whole replacement is worth it, I found that insulation was a nice boost to temperature retention, maybe heat up time too but can’t say for sure.
1:41 transition was crazy 🔥
I’m so proud of that one, it’s super clean
so clean
Great job Tommy👍Even with 7 BL machines and a K1Max i'll still mod a Ender 3 once every few months :)
Thanks! I love what you did with your Ender 3 V2 a while back, when I had one a couple years ago I really wanted to do something similar. Cheers
Hello thank you for the video. Can you please share your marlin firmware file? I do have both the motherboard and the tft creen but it doesnt work for reason.
Hi there, I don’t have the firmware file as I flashed it years ago. I believe the skr mini e3 v3 I had installed was running stock Marlin firmware before I accidentally broke it. I’m not sure as to why it’s not work for you, I’m sorry to hear that it isn’t. I’d recommend trying a Facebook group or dedicated support for troubleshooting.
As a ender 3 pro newbie owner, im jealous) Nice video!
Much appreciated! All the best with your machine! I’ve had a couple of e3 pro’s in the past and they performed very well.
Don't be. Most of these upgrades are pointless. A btt mobo, best would be the skr 1.4, with 2226 stepsticks, RPi Zero 2 and a capricorn tube would be the only upgrades that you would need to make the printer far, far, far better than the original version (and also better than this contraption in the video).
Second Z axis with an independent driver and linear rails (on the Y axis), are good upgrades, but I can tell you by running them for a while, not much of a difference. The X axis linear rails are all pointless. A proper upgrade would be dual linear on the X, but with the 2020 profile that is almost impossible. Also you would need a dial indicator to mount it properly, something almost no one on CZcams seems to realise. Also all the displays are just pointless, mine went in the parts bin almost immediately after I bought the printer and used Klipper along a RPi Zero. I push mine a lot, I've taken all the electronics outside of an IKEA Lack chamber, and print TPU, ABS, PLA (detachable sides with magnets on the enclosure), and PET/PETG. I recently upgraded to a RIDGA sherpa mini with the stock hotend, just with a bi-metal heatbreak. If you pay only for the upgrades that you truly need (and don't be stingy on those), you will get a reliable printer that can print functional parts. Then if you need faster prints, you can either build a Voron or get a secondhand Ender 5 Pro and convert it to a Mercury 1.
Don't be jealous, do the research and upgrade the Pro.
ill be looking forward to seeing the ender 5 mods for sure. I just recently bought a ender 5 and it was used from the local microcenter. After finally learning to level and tram the bed for Z hight so I could print my only issue now is making sure Z steps are calibrated for it and move onto PID tuning the bed so I know everything is correct. >_< Take my advice just buy it new and calibrate it from a stock system. A used system regardless of being stock or modded is a different ball park to mess with honestly.
All the best with your machine! I got it preowned for a good deal so I can’t complain. I’ll hopefully get a ton of mods on it, It’ll be great. Cheers
a few notes here.
1. you should really use a z-motor bracket that uses all 4 motor holes
2. the top parts on the lead screws will overconstrain them. I don't really add them but at least 3 of my printers came stock with something akin to those.
Thanks for the tips! I’ve heard before that the “Z-guides” or whatever they’re called could cause problems but I think it was in the long run. I’ll look more into it. Cheers
What software you use for your 3D prototypes?
For CAD work I use Fusion 360.
Nice! what was the final time?
Thanks! For the benchy I believe it was 12:50, unless you meant build time or such. Cheers
I'm wondering what is cheaper: all those upgrades or buying a new Ender 3 v3 SE (or KE)?
Definitely a new Ender 3 SE/KE, it would perform better while being cheaper and simpler.
That’s not the point. We’re here to send a message.
And another question, i tried multiple times to install octoprint and klipper on the pi, it is an pi 3b original(soo not like bananapi but a genuine raspberry) but i have tried it 4 times already and it keep hanging on zeroconf and i have waited 15 min to eveb 3 hours without luck. Anybody know how to resolve this issue
Really nice vid however there is a few more things to learn and do. For example having a lightweight extruder setup for faster and more speed and acceleration. Or just convert it into a core xz printer like the switch wire, tbh at this point, what I will do is just to see fluid I have the spare time and money to upgrade and modify this even more or just get a new printer. I could learn a thing or two from the editing man but anyways keep up the good work!!!❤
Thanks for the tips! I’ll look into CoreXZ, I’ve been too intimidated to consider starting a build. All the best with your machine! Cheers
Is that bed hooked up to a high quality solid state relay?
I’m not sure of its quality, it’s cheap and definitely not as good as one of those branded genuine models. Michael from teaching tech made a great video on ac beds which I did my best to follow. I might consider removing the ac bed as it’s quite a serious upgrade which I need to keep regulated. I still need to get a thermal fuse. Cheers
I'm ready for that ender 5 build I'm like 85% upgraded
Me too mate! I’ve got almost all the parts already. I’m a little nervous about it going wrong, but it will be an exciting project and an excellent video. All the best with your machine! Cheers
You should try out swapping your toolhead to a stealthburner and hotend to a bambu
I’d love to try that one day, I’ll add it to my list.
hey, could you provide links to that toolhead? or if you made it yourself post it to thingiverse? thanks!
Here's the thangs link, thangs.com/designer/robertsisco/3d-model/H2%20V2S%20Lite%20Parts%20Cooling%205015%20Ducts%20and%20Mount%20Optimized.stl-993950
It requires an adapter to be used with the Ender 3, I'd prefer not to share the one I made as it's not very good. Cheers
why don't you upgrade the Y axis to linear rails? the printbed wobbles a lot, ruining prints🤨
I was considering it, but I couldn’t find a good kit at a suitable price. I would have preferred it over the x axis for sure. I could have done it diy, but I was worried I wouldn’t be able to do it and the other upgrades in time. Cheers
I have big extrusion issues with the biqu extruder foe me in dont works has anyone a idear. I did rotation distance tuning. And the extrusion of the walls and the top and bottom layers dont match.
What I found made the biggest difference was changing pressure advance from the stock value for my machine (which was bowden in the config) from 0.85 to 0.05. My rotational distance is around 3.3. Make sure everything is tensioned correctly and tightened. If you can adjust the current of your extruder motor that may be worth looking into. I hope you get it sorted, extrusion issues are a pain I’m familiar with.
The Ender of Theseus at this point
I will hopefully be testing a CoreXY conversion kit for it in the future, that will transform the frame too. No original ender 3 will be left haha.
As someone recently introduced to 3D printing, I've been considering getting a printer for home. Would the ender 3 be a good investment? I am under the impression its an older 3d printer thats been around for awhile, but I do like the idea of "upgrading" or tinkering and fixing parts on it myself if I have to. I've seen alot of youtubers use bambu printers, but they seem pretty pricey as well.
I’ve heard good things about the Ender 3 V3 SE, it’s one of Creality’s new Ender 3’s with most of the upgrades installed. (I haven’t tried it yet but I’m going based off what I’ve seen) As good as an old Ender 3 would be to get started, it can be frustrating to mess around with, and it lacks a lot of modern features, especially the original. You’ll end up spending more to bring it up to speed. There’s fun in doing it, but it’s never the most economical path. There’s a ton of information online, so most problems will probably have been encountered and solved. But for someone getting into printing, I’d look at getting one of these modern machines with most of the upgrades already installed and especially one that’s proven itself. It’ll make it easier to tinker as well having a machine that actually works. I’ve heard great things about Bambu’s machines, but can’t justify the cost yet either. I’d have a look around at machines released in the last year or so and try find user reviews as some machines aren’t really that good. Cheers
beginner 3d print nowadays should get a bambulab a1 mini, sub 400$ without their fancy multi filament system, theres no tinkering with the machine, just print, the machine works. If later on, you get interested, the ender 3 is a good base for an upgrade project where you get to tinker with your machine as much as you want. with the years I came to liking printing without tinkering much better than maintaining my printer alongside printing, so I am very happy of bambu's arrival on the market.
amazing but here are some things that can retain quality at those speeds, 1. belt are tensioned with as tensioner, 2. the extruder may be a little heavy, 3. make sure fully you are not losing any cooling and all part cooling fans should be at 100%, 3. dont go that high speeds, 4. make sure everything possible is calibrated, 5. general maintenance 6. quality fans
and you should be good :)
A proper belt tensioner is what I need to get next, it really does make a huge difference. I’ll keep those tips in mind, and thanks!
@@TommyHoughtoni just remembered, but you could get more powerful cpap fans, they are more powerful than the 5015 and can also improve quality by a lot. And you can print and use the printers parts to make a belt tensioner.
@@LucaThePupineer I'll be trying some other cooling methods on the Ender 5 video. I've got some huge 120mm blowers for auxiliary cooling, and some tiny 3010's for the printhead, will be super cool (in both meanings.) I hope to try cpap cooling in the future. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton get ready to be ‘blown’ away🤣
What is the benefits of changing to a 220v bed? Is it worth it?
Not on a build plate smaller than 300mm. The thick beds that Voron's, RatRigs, large 3D printers (or 12v ones) could really take advantage of a 220v bed. The costs of a good quality relay, thermal fuse, mounting hardware and bed itself do add up, but they are very powerful. On anything Ender 3 sized, it's not worth it. Cheers
Haha looks very similar hotend setup to my delta that I upgraded as well. Still using bowden but it's got a HF dragon v2.
Thanks for sharing! How does that hotend perform? Cheers
@@TommyHoughton It's really nice, I did some modifications to mine and machined an aluminum bracket to hard mount it on my delta. Put a pt1000 and 70w heater in it and can do nylon which was my goal, even using a the spare 24v fan off my ender 5 for hotend cooling suffices enough.
@Hosteggy Great idea with the bracket, nothing worse than a loose hotend. That’s quite a set of components too! I saw a hotend on Aliexpress called the “Bingo” hotend. I really want to put a 100w cartridge in that if I can get my hands on one, it looks insane. I’ll be installing the Trianglelab Dragon Ace hotend on my Ender 5 for my July video. I’m hoping it performs well. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Oh that bingo looks very interesting, large heatsink as well compared to the competition. My dragon HF is trianglelabs as well so you shouldn't have any issues with them.
1) Why rails on X?
2) Why dual Z?
3) Have you locked your Z lead screws on top of that 2040s?
The x axis rail was chosen because it was easy to do with an affordable kit, the Z axis too, It was primarily because of the title and I wanted to upgrade some of the motion components. The dual z definitely keeps things more stable, I've had better print quality using it on two of my machines. Although I've also done extruder upgrades on both as well. The guides at the top of the lead screws are tightened down. Cheers
Please install a thermal fuse on the bed
Will do, I’m looking around getting a couple today.
The clicky gears on the H2 is not a problem. It's even a good thing. It's just noisy as hell with PA lol
I thought it was at the start, now it’s not a worry. Super pleased with the quality of prints. I must try printing some, I’ve been afraid of using anything other than PLA for years.
@@TommyHoughton I loved my H2 but I stopped using it to test the Sherpa Mini.
Sadly, I'm not really pleased with the results.
I have the same nozzle, block, v6 heatsink, and the extruder can't reach 500 anymore.
My H2 could do 600 easyly, the limit would be the CHT nozzle. Do you have some tips for increasing the power of an extruder ?
I’m sorry to hear that, I’ve always wanted to try a Sherpa Mini, not sure why it would affect the performance so much. In regard to increasing power, a copper cht nozzle or steel a one would help since you’re printing at high temps, a new high power heater cartridge might help as well. For the extruder itself some vref tuning and/or current adjustments may help too. It’s an interesting problem so I can only provide suggestions. I hope you get it sorted. Cheers
What Is the maximum speed you can you print with a good quality?
I haven’t done proper testing, but several times the recommended stock speed is still comfortable for the components. I’d say 200-300mm’s per second travel with 3000mm’s acceleration at least. The print head is a bit loose so I can’t push things super high before it shows. I had a Gcode with the values for the quality benchy but I can’t seem to find it. If I do I’ll update this comment. Cheers
Thank you!!
I think about upgrading and replacing parts on my Ender and Kobra Go's and always come to the conclusion that the money and parts are better used on putting together a Voron or some other DIY printer.
I agree with that, anything in a similar league to a voron will outperform any bedslinger. It’s a great looking machine too, as with all the higher end corexy’s.
Isn't the difference in the size of the 220v bed and the aluminum bed going to cause a significant temperature difference
Pretty sure yeah, although I don’t print much outside the small area anyway.
SKR board has a fuse you can replace
i bet he proberly fried an IC or some other unidentifiable component poking around with the meter in a live circuit, just my 2 cents.
You're right, I'll look into that and hopefully it fixes the problem.
@@ItsBoyRed could be….i fried my first SKR mini’s fuse right out of the box new. It crackled then popped, and I thought I killed the board but just grabbed an auto fuse assortment kit to replace it, that’s why I suggested it.
There’s a little transistor that has some marks around it, I believe it’s the one that handled fan power. I bridged the connections on the fan itself which made its way to the mainboard. I got a rough model number but not the most helpful. I was rather careless which was my fault.
I’ll try that today and give it a shot, I wasn’t able to heat anything after the short, so I’ll give the mobo power and that required stuff with a new fuse. Will let you know
Consider Kevin’s Belted Z mod
I'll look into it! I've heard good things about it.
Please create a blog post with all links and details
I don’t have a blog, but I’ll post all items used in the description soon. Cheers
you could have flashed the pi with mainsail with the official pi flashing tool. It includes klipper and moonraker by default.
The printer looks like a workhorse!
I’ll look into that for next time, I found Kiauh works well for my workflow. It’s a beast for sure, but still has room for more. Cheers
Quick question: why upgrade old printer if you could just buy new one that has all these features for almost same price?
It was primarily for fun, being able to make a video on it helps recuperate some of the costs. There are limits to how economical it is to upgrade a machine. I would love to get a machine such as the Ender 3 V3 SE or Sovol SV07 as they have so many features at competitive prices, but shipping costs bring the prices up too much for me too justify at the moment. Cheers
The silicon heater isn't that good of an idea. First it is too small for the thin aluminium bed and will cause it to warp due to uneven heat distribution. Over time the original traces of the bigger low power heater might be stressed too much and break. Second, you absolutely need to ground the heatbed when using ac current at that voltage. Third you need to put at least one thermal fuse in line with it (better two in series) and in direct contagt with the heatbed, because ssrs can break and permanently close the circuit. That would easily cause temperatures to reach way above safe levels ab become a great fire hazard.
Thanks for the tips, I’m trying to get my hands on a few thermal fuses, grounding the bed is something I’ll look into as well. I’m considering removing the bed for the time being just to make the whole system a bit safer until the components arise. Cheers
Is it worth it to do all of this?
No, this video was just trying to “upgrade” as much as possible. My most recommended upgrades are a leveling probe, pei flex plate (g10 is also great) and higher quality hotend (although not entirely necessary) and a silent mainboard if not installed already. Most of the others are either for title or just unnecessary. Cheers
I also modded my ender 3 pro, and now I am too afraid to run it without supervision in case it caught fire.
I’m with you on that, until I either remove the ac bed of install more safety components, I’ll be keeping a close eye on it.
So you sort of made a KE ...but at what cost.
A much higher one, Creality’s new E3 lineup pricing is very good.
@@TommyHoughton If it makes you feel better I've dumped thousands into printers that are now worth next to nothing. Mostly because it was fun to do. Now I just like to print and not just parts for the printers 😀
at this point you should have converted it to switch wire using a kit but it could have been a totally different video and approach
Yeah you have a point. Christoph Lehner already did an excellent video doing just that, and I wasn’t ready for such an undertaking just yet. Cheers
still running single and stock motors. lol it is not everything then. I remixed a mount for a dual 48mm y motors.
Yeah I really wanted to upgrade them all but couldn’t fit it in the budget. Thats sounds awesome! I hope to do something similar in the future. Cheers
A pi zero can run klipper?! I though you needed at least a Pi 3
It works surprisingly well! Saves a ton of money too, you do need a few adapters to get the most use though. I quite like it.
well done.
but seriously look into the dual belted z by Kevinakasam
it's a seriously good design
Thanks! I’ve heard great things about the upgrade and considering what I’ve done so far, there’s not much point in leaving it out. I’ll write it down. Cheers
Love the idea but you could literally buy 2 sovol sv07 printers for what you spent on parts alone. Lol.
I love the SV07, but I couldn’t get it shipped to me at a reasonable price nor find one locally. I enjoy upgrading the printers though, but of course a printer that just works without mods like the SV07 is an excellent choice.
idk if you like critics but... I feel like you did what a lot of most most ender people do wrong with their builds which is invest way too much into a solid metal direct drive hotend instead of focusing on other things. You could have built a sherpa mini with the old extruder parts and added a $20 bambulabs hotend clone with the same fans you already had. would have been 1/3 the weight with same flow
I'm always welcome to critics, I make a ton of mistakes and often unoptimised decisions, so feedback goes a long way. That's a great idea with using old parts to make a sherpa mini, they're really nice extruders but quite pricy so I haven't yet invested. BigTreeTech kindly provided the H2V2S lite for the build, which is why I didn't go for a pick and choose scenario. The Bambulab hotends and their clones are great value high performance parts, my go to is usually the trianglelab CHC system with a cht (or cht volcano) nozzle although that will end up costing double the bambu clone. The mellow BMG is great extruder too which I would consider, but the costs all add up a bit more than I realised with a previous build. Lerdge on Aliexpress has a new extruder similar to the orbitor/sherpa for ~30 USD but I cannot confirm its performance. I'll look into trying some of those bambulab hotends, they could be useful for a number of projects. I appreciate the feedback! Cheers
How much has this single ender 3 costed you lol? great video btw
Not sure, I've spent around 300USD, and BTT provided a bunch of components which bumped the cost up significantly.
My Ender-3 print much better after i put straight the hot end 😏
I did a similar fix on another machine once, it dramatically improved print quality. Always nice when the simple fixes work the best.
@@TommyHoughton i had the problem over a month and with all the filaments had bubble sound because the hot end was not 100% straight and no any video or someone to inform me about the hot end ,every one said humid.
I use the tool with bubble in it to put the hot end straight.i don't know the name of the tool.
Someone must make video about this fix.
Most of people have issues about this and i can understand from the pictures that most of them have not straight hot end.
If you can make video because my videos are for Umarex paintball markers.
@@noobt4eguns I appreciate the detail. Glad it’s all working well now! Is the tool you’re thinking of perhaps a “level?” I’ll write down this problem and solution for the future. Cheers
ok but you dont haven't done the EnderXY mod
I’m not sure what you mean fully, would you be able to re-explain?
@@TommyHoughtonI think this person was talking about the enderxy kit you can use to convert your printer into a corexy because bed slingers can only go so fast
@@spectrasouls Gotcha, thanks for explaining. I’ll be doing a CoreXY conversion hopefully in the near future. I’m talking to Ryan Sauer about getting one of his kits as it’s quite interesting. Cheers
That was a quick reply I got myn from belt3dprinterkits and it works pretty good it was a fun project I mean not convential because why not just buy a better printer but it was more of the journey for me than the destenation
Not gonna lie the way you dumped the screws and nuts on the table triggered me
That’s fair, it also annoyed me a bit but I left it in. Cheers
Yay Rubber Duckies
I'm just going to say it. You've put too much effort into this printer for the results achieved. Just my $0.02, convert that ender 5 in the background to a mercury one. It will perform better than the bedslinger. As someone who also likes to tinker, figure out a cut-off point on upgrades so you don't go too far down the rabbit hole and potentially waste money. I converted my ender 5 to a mercury one and loved it. Next step was to add hydra to mercury one. That ended up being my cut-off point. Next thing was to just build a voron and solve the limitations of the ender/mercury. Other good options out there now as well, voron, ratrig, vzbot, etc. Or bambu, creality k1 if you just want turnkey (but where is the fun in that).
The Mercury One is an awesome conversion, I really hope I can pull it off for the video, I'll look into it to see how possible it would be for me. It would certainly make it my best printer. You're right about the cutoff point, with my other machines I try to be as economical as possible with my upgrades. This one went a little overboard, but it was quite a bit of fun. I would love to build my own corexy from scratch, but that's quite the project that I'm not ready for just yet. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Understood. Doing the mercury one conversion isn't any harder than what you've done in this video. The biggest challenge will be printing the parts. They will need to be ABS or ASA. I printed mine by putting a box over my ender 5 to serve as a bootleg enclosure. Fabreeko sells a complete mercury conversion kit. That is the most economical way to do the conversion.
It sounds really viable, I'll start compiling all the links onto a doc for the video. I'll maybe try and reach out to them too. Thanks for the info!
Why not buy prusa then?
A Prusa would still cost too much for me, plus I wouldn’t resist modifying it. I’ve been meaning to buy a printer that “just works,” but I really enjoy modifying them. Definitely one day though. Cheers
@@TommyHoughtonI own two creality ender 3. And I thought that could be better to buy something with less need for maintenace. Because recently i've spent two days trying to figure out what is a cause of mysterious rings. I've literally dissaemble all [partys and repalced them with one which works properly. In the end I had to replace entire hot - end and that was it. And I bought two spare for future failures. But right now i'm planning to buy bamboo lab. .
@@qnaman The worst troubles are when you can’t find the cause immediately, it’s frustrating at the least. Getting an x1 or p1p will be a huge upgrade, I’ve heard such good things about those machines. I hope things work out!
Its cool and all but you couldve just get a new and much better printer for basically the same price
I have been looking at one, but It would cost a ton to ship and local printers have a decent markup that I can’t justify. I’d love to splash on a bambu lab and never worry again but not yet.
@@TommyHoughton not even bambu, new enders are dirt cheap for what they can do
This reminds me of theseus's ship, I mean, if you upgrade every part on your ender 3, is it still an ender 3?
I've had similar comments pop up a decent bit, and it's a good question. I don't have the ability to answer it though. Later this year I should be installing a CoreXY Conversion kit for the Ender 3, which should replace the last of the stock parts. It really will be a whole different printer.
Is it called Ender 3000 coz you spent roughly the same upgrading it? Jk jk :D Awesome video as always!
Thanks! I can only imagine what upgrades I could do with a budget/video like that. I think it's totalling about 4 or 5 hundred USD worth of parts atm including printer. Definitely putting some ludicrous hotend and motors on it, and getting as many custom metal parts for it as possible. Who knows, maybe I could reach out to Creality in a few years and do that! Cheers
replace dual z axis with single motor z belted axis design by kevinakasam, also please update the video to prevent people from buying the shitty 2 axis mod. Trust me once you go belted you never go back
I’ve heard good things about the belted z upgrade, I’ll look into doing something with it. I’ll update my comment with it.
I've now compared your conversion... just Raspberry Pi costs over 80$.... then all the conversion parts that you ordered online and had made... dude buys a Bambu Lab!!!!
The Raspberry pi was 33 NZD, a bambulab in my country would cost 1500 NZD for a P1P, unfortunately what I spent wasn’t close, especially thanks to sponsors providing a lot of the upgrades. What I did still isn’t the most economical, but it was enjoyable. An Ender 3 V3 SE would cost half what I spent and work as well if not better. I get your point of course. Cheers
A rpi zero is not 80$
i think u can get alot better printer for money you spend on upgrading
That’s true, printers have been getting better and cheaper every few months. I’ll look into getting a printer that “just works” in the near future, it’s good that we’re getting more of them. Cheers
its basically only an ender 3 frame
Yep! I’ve been talking to someone who makes a CoreXY kit for it, and after that there’ll be nothing left. I wonder if it will still be an Ender 3 then?
@@TommyHoughton exactly
Printer of theseus
That bed heater is a joke.. you didn't measure the bed size before ordering??
I did, I couldn’t risk it not fitting so I went smaller, it is a bit too small though. Works fine for now.
best ender 3 upgrade is a new printer
Especially with the OG E3. I hear the E3 V3 SE is quite good value for money. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton nah, had the e3 v1 for a few years and when I gifted it to a friend all that was left from the original build was only the frame. Then I had the chance to work on a v2 and it was the exact same thing with the exact same problems. In comparison I tried sovol sv03 (a very good prusa mk3s clone) and a kp3s. I wouldn't recommend to anyone getting anything from creality nowadays when there are far better alternatives
@@leftthenright88 Good to know. Creality’s got so many machines now, it’s almost confusing. A lot of people seem to have the KP3S and SV06 and such, so I’m hoping they’re good machines. I feel like Creality is saturating the market with the same thing.
@@TommyHoughton you have to give them credit for driving the industry into cheap open source machines that got a lot of people into the hobby but that came with a lot of quality control problems.
@@leftthenright88 Definitely! I’ve had plenty of their machines, and while they’re certainly not perfect, they have helped me and many others with their journeys. Cheers
hello fellow short ciruited
i did it twice on the same board :facepalm:
Glad I’m not alone, sorry it happened to you too. At least it was the same board twice and not two boards once!
the video looks good, but dude, the lighting, too much, and with the cristal white table y overexposed. Also yo need take care of the close up takes, if you put your hand in frame yo loose focus
Thanks for the tips! I’ll be more careful with both from now on. I have a bad habit of lighting everything as much as possible instead of being strategic. Cheers
Just buy a different printer at this
Point
I’ll get a proper one eventually. I wouldn’t be able to resist upgrading it though haha
Nice stuff but money not well spend, you could've gotten rails for Y and motors for X and Y instead of those 2 screens and that useless bed heater which is a fire hazard. It's also undersized and won't heat the bed equally. It is also really weird that you blew your whole board up because of the fan header, I blew up fan mosfets before but not the whole board. The insulation under the bed is doing nothing, H2S has similar flow rate to bambu hotend clones which are $10 on Aliexpress and you can get a BMG extruder for $5 which will then perform better than a H2S. 6K accels is not high for a bed slinger, I was running my Anycubic MZ2 at those speeds for quality prints. I'm not trying to hate but also I'm not sure if this is rage bait. I can list at least 10 more things you have done wrong, it is not bad to not know something but spreading misinformation to close to 30K people is not cool
That’s all fair. I’ve had several comments point similar things out. This video was more for fun then the most performance per dollar. I can easily agree with the bambu and bmg clone combo, it’s more than great value. The small heater was for the title, it’s not a good use of money. The board still “works” but none of the heating stuff does. A lot of the parts were sent in which is why some may seem unconventional. I don’t intend to spread misinformation, the components worked well for me, but I really should have explained them more. I should be realising the bigger picture with this many people tuning in. I’ll be making sure the Ender 5 video is better than this. I really appreciate your feedback, if you ever spot something else I can work on please tell me. It’s the most effective way for me to improve. Cheers
Super cute an all with your snaps and all but not really of much help.
Sorry about that! I was aiming for more of an entertainment approach, but I should have been more onto it with the information presented, I’m working on making that better for next time, I’ve already had a couple of people point this out. If you have any suggestions, they’re more than welcome. Cheers
Money waste. All upgrades cost more than latest the stock ender 3
Some upgrades are really not worth it, but it was interesting to try and replace as much as possible with “upgraded” components. There’s only 3 or so components ever worth upgrading on an Ender 3, and they can be done much cheaper. Cheers
Useless. If you can't get good quality benchy from fast speed print, don't print at fast speed. And this is definitelly NOT what I call quality benchy. Seen MUCH BETTER results from less modded printers!
I found the quality to be as good as my stock ender 5, but the print took 1/3 of the previous time. I’m pleased with it. You can achieve quality prints from stock machines too. My main goal of this video was to upgrade “everything” and have it still print decently. It seems to do that. I completely understand your point of course. Cheers
First!
Legendary
All that hassle for those sh*tty prints?
It’s actually very good, the layer lines are even with no weird artifacts. Maybe I didn’t showcase them properly, I only showed a couple of prints. Of course, it could be achieved with less effort and fewer components, but it was enjoyable to do. It’s understandable that the increased cost and time spent upgrading isn’t worth it for most people, but I prefer it. Cheers
To be honest, i think all these upgrades are waste of time and money. Ender 3 requires only 3 upgrades - direct drive extrusion, new mainboard with silent drivers and bltouch. Everything else should be saved to buy a better printer.
I can agree with that, on a previous machine I found those upgrades made the biggest difference. Cheers
Just buy better printer. Ender never will be worth upgrading. Only upgrade recomended from me is to upgrade to another printer
I have been looking at getting a proper printer that just works, but for the time being I’m happy with my current machines despite their flaws. Hopefully I’ll get my hands on a nice coreXY soon. Cheers
In a way you’re right, though an Ender 3 is the cheapest way to get into 3D printing with community support. At least where I live, a Bambu labs A1 mini is double the price of a Ender 3 V3 KE, which is quite a huge difference…
Not everyone can afford a Bambu or a Prusa Mk4. An Ender 3 isnt perfect, but its more than enough to start off with for a decent print quality
@@catrass7515 for price of ender plus all upgrades and Time its the same price