Welding cracked truck frame (repair)
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- čas přidán 11. 10. 2023
- Welding this rusty broken cracked frame on my Chevy Silverado. I was going to take it to a shop to do the repair, but decided to to it myself.
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You might want to scab a plate over the crack. The metal around the crack is most likely thin on the backside. Learned the this technique while in the military, wasn't my job but knew an aviation tech who introduced this technique. Basically, you grind the weld flat after welding it up then make a plate at least 1.5 times longer than the break, to plate over the repaired area and then weld it in. Another techniques I use on rusted out areas is to cut out the bad area back to something solid, then take a piece of cardboard and a hammer to make a pattern of the hole, make a repair plate then weld it in flush then make the scab plate over it. I often also drill holes in the scab plate and then weld them around the parameter of the hole to the base material. Actually tested the weld technique in a press on test materials and found that it was significantly stronger than a new piece of material not reinforced, and tremendously stronger than a simple weld the crack repair. Yes it is a pain in the bottom to do but it works much better.
1. V your welds. Always, even if the parent material is thin. Full penetration is the name of the game.
2. ALWAYS put fish plates on top of frame repairs. Never weld and leave the weld out in the open to hold. It will crack eventually and because you've just welded that area, it's become a different material, so the crack will be as large as the crack was + extra. If you've seen those videos with trucks in Asia repaired in flip flops, those cracked frames aren't wear and tear and abuse, a lot of those are old trucks they welded before they caught on that you're supposed to put fish plates (reinforcements) on top. Rule of thumb, the fish plate should have round corners, in a rhombus form, and it should cover the crack 5 to 6 cm on all sides (the more "grip" you give that plate, the more it will resist and take stresses from the crack).
That includes bending the fish plate to snake around the frame if the crack has climbed on the horizontal plane. You can get away with a small plate if it didn't go past that.
Personally, i also like to drill the end of the crack and leave that hole as is so no stress ever plays from that weld area.
Source: i fix all of my brother's farm equipment and whenever we've had time to do this repair as stated, the repair has lasted the test of time and lots of kgs on top of it on rough farm land work. It's a bullet proof repair.
Bonus: if you happen to have access to stainless steel or feel you can take that coin loss, use stainless for the fish plate. It will never rust. Also, use weld through primer on the frame and the inside of the fish plate when you assemble them. You also want to put a small (1mm) hole in the fish plate for the gasses to escape as you weld it. You plug that hole over after it has cooled down. Just my 2 cents, nothing more.
Son I am proud of you but always start at the bottom come up hill with your bead run a little more heat 😁
Thanks for the advice.
Yeah downhand has no penetration and it sounded cold. It’s gonna crack again for sure.
You wanna go full pen with something like 7018 or ER70S. MiG is great for some things, but I wouldn’t use it for anything structural. I don’t trust it.
@@JohnStrandtThanks for the advice. I’m just learning as I do. This was weld was in early September and I driven the truck a lot, seem to be holding. If it crack again I’ll do a update n I’ll try uphand with high voltage. Thank you.
@@JohnStrandt Strength is NOT a weakness of mig, it is only a concern in the hands of an inexperienced user making welds like this, which would be a problem regardless of mig tig or stick. Stick will yield a slightly better weld in comparison to a flux cored wire, yes, but not compared to mig with shielding gas which I'd argue is easier to learn how to make a solid weld. If he dials in his settings, watches a few tutorials, better follows the path of the material, ie getting a better lens, I think mig is perfectly capable for a structural job like this. If he wants to learn how to be a welder I will say stick is a great way to learn, mig and tig both come easy when you learn on stick. If you learn on mig you can get stuck.
I wouldn't recommend uphand welding it, it's thin enough that you'll just start blowing holes in it and get pissed off. Vertical down is perfectly fine for a repair like this, the frame is most likely less than 1/8" thick, especially in that spot. If you are still concerned about penetration, gouge out the crack a little bit. Also, turn that wire up, your voltage was a tad too high for your wire speed, hence why it sounded like it was cutting out.
Heres a good tip that should help; keep a small piece of copper or aluminum plate pocket sized to use for a backing strip. The weld will easily break away from the strip and you can run the bead as you please. Hope it helps good luck
Pretty good job for your first time. It takes a lot of practice to get good at welding. The heat setting could have been a little higher. Drill a hole at the area where the crack ends. This will prevent the crack from extending in the future. Grinding a slight V in the crack will help with better weld penetration. Cover the repair with a good chassis paint such as POR 15 or Chassis Saver rather than rubberized undercoating. Chassis paints are affected by UV light. Once the chassis paint is dry, top coat it with regular spray paint.
That’s not quite how it should have been done but definitely an A for effort!
Good job for a beginner, keep it up. You always have to start some where. Don’t let anyone discourage you, no one has ever pick up anything and become a instant pro, only through hard work, trials and error, and persistence will you achieve anything worth doing.
Good attempt. Two recommendations I would have made, one, grind a "V" at the crack to get better penetration. Two, more amperage/heat, you really want to burn the weld in.
The other thing, like someone else recommended, weld the bottom to the top.
Keep her going. My pickup is a battle fighting rust every year. I can see removing the bed in a couple years. My cross pipes that hold the shocks are rusting and getting thinner. Good Luck !
Good job with this type of welding down hill is ok grind down your weld the next time and turn your heat up and run another weld on top of the weld you grind down
I would always drill a hole at the end of the crack the relieve the stress first, then flatten the weld, fish weld a plate over the thinned area.
Nice repair, i just did a repair on a jeep Wrangler frame with a 3 inch hole in it.
Keyboard warriors always going to hate but in my opinion that repair is just fine on an old light duty pickup truck. That will last til the next spot rots out somewhere else ;)
nice weld :)
more heat! turn up the welders amperage! The metal around it should change color front and back side of that about 3/4 of and inch along the whole weld.
Your heat is to cold, turn the Amps up on that welder and reduce your wire speed, use a grinder and bevel the edges of the crack and drill a hol at the end of the crack to stop it from spreading further. Start your weld at the bottom and weld up the crack watching your puddle. Once welded grind it smooth then put a plate over the cracked area and weld around the perimeter of the plate. Your “fix”. Isn’t fixed, I understand your learning but learning shouldn’t cause you to loose your life if it fails or cause someone else to loose their life if it fails.
You really should practice on some 1/8-3/16-1/4 coupons, it will take some time, but better to have some time in the seat, than streaks in the seat when your first welds decide to let go when you hit a bad pothole with a load in the back, also you should use flux core wire it has better penetration than solid mig wire, in both 110 and 220, just make sure to buy E-71T-11 if it has this designation it had to meet a bunch of criteria and is aws approved and multi-pass, generally stay away from E-71T-GS, its not aws approved and is just whatever that manufacturer thinks is good enough for a single pass, there are some decent options from reputable brands though.
good job tho for first time. I would v grove the crack than weld over grind flush , fishplate and plug weld over the front
Great job
Instead rubbed undercoating just regular paint or rust proof
What welder did you use?
Hobart handler 125
Дублер на раме не варится поперек ее...только вдоль...и ремонтная пластина, которую вы приварили к раме должна быть в виде ромба
Rust on a Chevy frame,, who knew.
Hopefully it holds up..
i will not
Why didn't he take the tire off ...🙄😎
I would have removed the tire and gotten a grinder in there to v notch that crack so you could get better penetration. And then weld a scab plate over it. Try going a little hotter next time.
How about cutting out the rot properly and preparing the crack at all it will break again
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How did this hold up
Put couple thousand miles on it so far n still fine. Probably gonna do one year update video.
@@xiachang25yea you should take videos of the weld and how it held up good shit 👍
Those aren’t bad for you first time but please don’t put that on the road
You can tell by sound weld is no good. Should sound like bacon frying.
One thing you didn’t do is take off the , the iron oxide need to come off
First, you needed to become familiar with the frame repair technology. Welds are never placed vertically. Here the metal was destroyed by corrosion - a patch should have been applied, but avoiding vertical welds, in the shape of a triangle or diamond. Even the Pakistani truck repairmen on CZcams know this. I'm not a hater and I respect people who work with their hands, especially those who want to learn something new. But sometimes you need to spend a little more time preparing. The safety of you and those around you depends on the strength of the frame.
I guess you dont know what you dont know ,,,,
welds too cold , better to weld up hill for penetration , some weld prep would help , as would some flitch plates ,,,
the frame twists from poor design. weld a bar behind the radiator from the left side of the A-frame to the righ sde of the A-frame to stabilize the steering gearbox.all 70's - 2000 chevy trucks has this design flaw. the gearbox must be stabilized or it will happen again and break your welds. thats the only solution. the gearbox turns when u turn the wheel putting pressure on the stress point of the frame which causes it to crack.
this isnt safe at all
Safer than it was before.
JFC that should be crushed and scrapped and you need to practice your welds because those were terrible.
Before making videos on how to weld, make sure you actually can weld. Yours it terrible.
Before commenting, read and listen carefully, nowhere did he say it’s a how to video.
He say he’s attempting and it’s his first time.
You can hear that your settings are wrong. Also clean the steel really good. Making some holes and placing a gusset behind would be a better solution.