Did this help you fix your dishwasher? Let us know what symptoms and error code(s) you were experiencing. Learn how to read the error codes in diagnostic mode here: czcams.com/video/3sX9hjGb-iQ/video.html
After a pump motor burned out a few months ago, and the heating element a month later, the dishwasher started stopping right after starting the wash cycle. Looks like replacing the control board fixed the problem. The old control board showed visible signs of overheating at the pump motor power connection.
there are two fuses here, the f8 & f9. The f9 fuse appears on the schematic but I cannot identify what the f8 fuse serves. When testing the f8 fuse according to the diagram, it's open. I can't figure out what components are fed by f8
My fuse blew a few months ago and got it replaced and since then it was fine. A few days ago it tripped again so I replaced it and ran it but maybe 20 minutes into a cycle it opened again. Do you think it may be a clogged filter that is causing the drain pump to work harder and blow the fuse? Guess it could be a bad heating element too.
Just find someone who has some basic soldering capability. These look to be fairly big parts, as surface mount components go, and should be fairly simple to replace. These are cheap, easy to find, and readily available parts. (7A 125V ( LF7A ) fuses made by Littelfuse)
How do you test the wires going to the circulation pump? Both of my fuses are working, but the new pump I installed is not pushing circulating properly. Soap is left at the bottom of the pan.
Both fuses are beeping from my multimeter test. I just replaced the pump and motor, but i am having a persistent issue of the water not circulating. Soap just drops and pools on the door and bottom pan. Do you think it could be the pump or motor wires? How do i test those?
It sounds like the wiring or main control board could be bad. You can test the wiring for continuity by turning off the power and removing the wire on each end, then use a mulitmeter to test it for continuity.
Welp- I did a diagnostic test and it came back with the code 5-1 for door latch. Which is odd considering we have an issue with the water flow. They're connected though from the visual in the service tech sheets- does that sound right? The wiring for the latch had a continuity test of 0.0, so it's ok. Maybe I should test the points on the circuit board? Sheesh. I'm in a rabbit hole.
Did this help you fix your dishwasher? Let us know what symptoms and error code(s) you were experiencing.
Learn how to read the error codes in diagnostic mode here: czcams.com/video/3sX9hjGb-iQ/video.html
Very clear narrative and step-by-step images and instructions. Thank you!
Excellent instructions. Thank you
You're welcome! Did you find that you had a blown fuse?
After a pump motor burned out a few months ago, and the heating element a month later, the dishwasher started stopping right after starting the wash cycle. Looks like replacing the control board fixed the problem. The old control board showed visible signs of overheating at the pump motor power connection.
Thanks for sharing!
I misplaced the tech service sheet for my Kitchenaid dishwasher. Any way to find a copy online or buy another one?
there are two fuses here, the f8 & f9. The f9 fuse appears on the schematic but I cannot identify what the f8 fuse serves. When testing the f8 fuse according to the diagram, it's open. I can't figure out what components are fed by f8
What is the model number of the dishwasher?
@@PartsDr kdtm354dss4
My fuse blew a few months ago and got it replaced and since then it was fine. A few days ago it tripped again so I replaced it and ran it but maybe 20 minutes into a cycle it opened again. Do you think it may be a clogged filter that is causing the drain pump to work harder and blow the fuse? Guess it could be a bad heating element too.
It can be tricky to figure out which component is bad and putting extra load on the circuit. Let us know what you find as the solution.
So, if the 50¢ fuse is bad, you have to toss the whole control board and buy a new one for $150.00.
Nice.
Sorry to bring you the bad news!
Why couldn't you use a jumper with an equivalent fuse in it?
Just find someone who has some basic soldering capability. These look to be fairly big parts, as surface mount components go, and should be fairly simple to replace. These are cheap, easy to find, and readily available parts. (7A 125V ( LF7A ) fuses made by Littelfuse)
SO GLADI FOUND THISVID
Great! Did you have a blown fuse?
My heating element burn out I replaced it, it's still not working so is it possible I have a bad fuse?
Yes, that could be the cause, it would be worth checking.
Dishwasher circulation pump comes on and goes off during a session. Could that be a bad control board??
It could be if the power is not being sent consistently to the pump motor.
How do you test the wires going to the circulation pump? Both of my fuses are working, but the new pump I installed is not pushing circulating properly. Soap is left at the bottom of the pan.
What if your service manual isnt there?
What is the model number of your dishwasher? czcams.com/video/her9eShOYtA/video.html
If my power button to dishwasher wont even turn on then its probably my control board ... Right?
We never like to assume anything. Something as simple as no power to the dishwasher could be a cause of the issue.
Both fuses are beeping from my multimeter test. I just replaced the pump and motor, but i am having a persistent issue of the water not circulating. Soap just drops and pools on the door and bottom pan. Do you think it could be the pump or motor wires? How do i test those?
It sounds like the wiring or main control board could be bad. You can test the wiring for continuity by turning off the power and removing the wire on each end, then use a mulitmeter to test it for continuity.
Welp- I did a diagnostic test and it came back with the code 5-1 for door latch. Which is odd considering we have an issue with the water flow. They're connected though from the visual in the service tech sheets- does that sound right? The wiring for the latch had a continuity test of 0.0, so it's ok. Maybe I should test the points on the circuit board? Sheesh. I'm in a rabbit hole.