I just finished my SAS labor day weekend and I love my swap👍🏿👍🏿 this is how HD trucks should come from the factory and not with IFS junk...IFS belongs on 1/2 ton trucks and SUV's that's what Ford and Dodge have done
What benefit do you see? I love the ride of the IFS in my LBZ. I test drove several different solid axle trucks and I couldn't stand the ride. The solid axle front end keeps me out of a jeep wrangler too. There are lots of hard core off road vehicles with independent suspension. The hummer comes to mind. Why do you need solid axles? That seems like an expensive mod to make the truck ride like trash on the road.
@@russianrick8403 Benefit 1. Front end stays lined up 2. No pinky finger size tie rods to bend 3. Can handle my 1100 LBS snowplow way better and front end doesn't sag when plow is raised like IFS does 4. Much more room under front end 5. Steering is much more sensitive with less moving parts to ware out 6. Increase front axle rating from 4800 LBS to 6000LBS 7. Strengthen up frame, no more frame cracks behind upper control arms due to heavy snowplow 8. Manual locking hubs...2wd low range is awesome 👍🏿 9. No more weak cv axles popping out when on the throttle with steering wheel turned all the way right or left or cv boots cracking 10. Front axle is a Dana super 60 w/ a 10" ring gear 3" axle tubes with .50" wall 35 splins inner and outer axle shafts 1550 steering ujoints 11. No more stupid 4wd front axle actuator to go bad unexpectedly like on IFS 12. Ball joints does not move with suspension travel like on IFS 13. No need to worry about aluminum center differential housing cracking I busted mines snowplowing 🙄 14. As for the ride I don't care because trucks are supposed to like a wagon and not like a Cadillac 👍🏿😁 The only benefit from IFS is the smooth ride and nothing else
@@David-yy7lb That's a pretty good list! A couple questions on those for the sake of dialog. Couldn't you just crank up the springs or add heavier springs on the front end to handle the extra weight on the front end? Isn't the space under the front end reduced since the pumpkin can't be tucked up higher? I find your point on the steering interesting, because every vehicle I have driven with a solid front axle seemed to have much more ambiguous steering and tended to wander around a lot more. Aside from that, the whole point of a double wishbone suspension is to maintain better steering geometry at different angles and improve scrub angles instead of just having the steering angle pivot in a different axis as the axle moves up and down. I have already upgraded my tie rod ends, so I understand your point there. Lastly, can you expound on what you mean by the front end staying lined up? Can't the axle wander around a bit more with the track bar? It seems like independent suspension is anchored in more places so the geometry should be more consistent. 2wd low does sound pretty cool.
@@russianrick8403 My truck has a 7" S.A.S. lift so there's plenty of room for the whole axle to travel up and down, as for springs i have adjustable King coil overs and they handle my heavy plow with ease but before the S.A.S. swap I had a 6" BDS IFS Suspension lift when I had lift I would crank up the torsion bar bolts to raise the truck up about an inch or so because of the weight of my plow however the down fall of cranked up tbars is the truck would ride like a pogo stick and put more stress on the ball joints, the BDS lift drop the center differential 6" to keep the steering geometry like OEM...as for my SAS steering believe it or not my truck does not wander or have death wobble the steering is very sensitive as for front end alignment yes it stays lined up because my track bar is welded to the frame with a track bar mount with Haim joints and my radius arms has Haim joints too no rubber bushings to ware out so my front end is pretty rigid
@@David-yy7lb sounds like a helluva build. Truck modding gets expensive, and it sounds like everything you did paid off. Maybe the trucks I drove were just wore out.
Such an awesome truck- as you can see, theres a clear fan base- would love to see more on how the truck handles in your adventures! One day my d-max will be ready for some adventures as well. Thank you for posting!
Great video . Seen the last one you made a while back . I would like to know how you got your power outlet ran to your bed I’m trying to do that to mine !! Happy Father’s Day btw
I ran a heavy guage outdoor extension cord from the inverter to the outlet. I just cut the end of cord off and wired it to the outlet. It's ran out of the vent at the back of the cab.
Anymore video's? I'd like to do something like this to my lbz. What's a rough cost number on doing the dana60 install? I go to tularosa mtn basin a couple times a year. These mods would be perfect.
I have a few more videos uploaded, but I dont have any great videos of the build or closeups. The front axle I got for 600 bucks at the junkyard. The rest of the parts were around 4k from WFO. I eventually went with a Ford T-case which required new driveshafts. Case was 1200. Shafts were 750. You could skip that.... I ran the 263 for years before I got tired of it leaking. I installed everything alone in 3 days. 1st day was cutting and cleaning. 2nd day was welding brackets. 3rd day was buttoning up steering / brakes / hubs / shafts. My wife helped me bleed the brakes.
@@mikkiejordan5540 I'm a bit surprised on the t-case. Any reason you went with that over an OEM rebuild? My plan is to use kodiak's t-case because of their bearing redesign. That's a 6" WFO lift I think I heard? It's really the perfect height and wheel combo with the 13.5" IMO.
@@LBZOverlander I went with the 273 for several reasons. The output shaft is aligned with the front axle eliminating some vibrations I had above 50 mph. It's also much much larger. It has flanges on both the front and rear outputs instead of slip yokes. And most importantly it doesn't leak lol Mine came out to about 5" of lift. I would have done WFO 3" kit if it were available at the time for more uptravel
Mostly angle iron lol. I cut out the spare tire carrier and build an angle iron box for the rectangular water tank. It's bolted to the receiver and crossmember for the shocks. Did essentially the same thing for the 3rd battery. I'll see if I can get a video one day
@@mikkiejordan5540 Thanks, i have the gas version of your truck and was thinking about putting suburban/yukon gas tank where spare is. battery where you have air reel and water filter and pump where you have electric reel
Nice truck. I'm in the Austin area as well. I'm in the planning stages of SAS on my 04 Sierra.
I just finished my SAS labor day weekend and I love my swap👍🏿👍🏿 this is how HD trucks should come from the factory and not with IFS junk...IFS belongs on 1/2 ton trucks and SUV's that's what Ford and Dodge have done
What benefit do you see? I love the ride of the IFS in my LBZ. I test drove several different solid axle trucks and I couldn't stand the ride. The solid axle front end keeps me out of a jeep wrangler too. There are lots of hard core off road vehicles with independent suspension. The hummer comes to mind. Why do you need solid axles? That seems like an expensive mod to make the truck ride like trash on the road.
@@russianrick8403
Benefit
1. Front end stays lined up
2. No pinky finger size tie rods to bend
3. Can handle my 1100 LBS snowplow way better and front end doesn't sag when plow is raised like IFS does
4. Much more room under front end
5. Steering is much more sensitive with less moving parts to ware out
6. Increase front axle rating from 4800 LBS to 6000LBS
7. Strengthen up frame, no more frame cracks behind upper control arms due to heavy snowplow
8. Manual locking hubs...2wd low range is awesome 👍🏿
9. No more weak cv axles popping out when on the throttle with steering wheel turned all the way right or left or cv boots cracking
10. Front axle is a Dana super 60 w/ a 10" ring gear 3" axle tubes with .50" wall 35 splins inner and outer axle shafts 1550 steering ujoints
11. No more stupid 4wd front axle actuator to go bad unexpectedly like on IFS
12. Ball joints does not move with suspension travel like on IFS
13. No need to worry about aluminum center differential housing cracking I busted mines snowplowing 🙄
14. As for the ride I don't care because trucks are supposed to like a wagon and not like a Cadillac 👍🏿😁
The only benefit from IFS is the smooth ride and nothing else
@@David-yy7lb That's a pretty good list! A couple questions on those for the sake of dialog. Couldn't you just crank up the springs or add heavier springs on the front end to handle the extra weight on the front end? Isn't the space under the front end reduced since the pumpkin can't be tucked up higher? I find your point on the steering interesting, because every vehicle I have driven with a solid front axle seemed to have much more ambiguous steering and tended to wander around a lot more. Aside from that, the whole point of a double wishbone suspension is to maintain better steering geometry at different angles and improve scrub angles instead of just having the steering angle pivot in a different axis as the axle moves up and down. I have already upgraded my tie rod ends, so I understand your point there. Lastly, can you expound on what you mean by the front end staying lined up? Can't the axle wander around a bit more with the track bar? It seems like independent suspension is anchored in more places so the geometry should be more consistent. 2wd low does sound pretty cool.
@@russianrick8403
My truck has a 7" S.A.S. lift so there's plenty of room for the whole axle to travel up and down, as for springs i have adjustable King coil overs and they handle my heavy plow with ease but before the S.A.S. swap I had a 6" BDS IFS Suspension lift when I had lift I would crank up the torsion bar bolts to raise the truck up about an inch or so because of the weight of my plow however the down fall of cranked up tbars is the truck would ride like a pogo stick and put more stress on the ball joints, the BDS lift drop the center differential 6" to keep the steering geometry like OEM...as for my SAS steering believe it or not my truck does not wander or have death wobble the steering is very sensitive as for front end alignment yes it stays lined up because my track bar is welded to the frame with a track bar mount with Haim joints and my radius arms has Haim joints too no rubber bushings to ware out so my front end is pretty rigid
@@David-yy7lb sounds like a helluva build. Truck modding gets expensive, and it sounds like everything you did paid off. Maybe the trucks I drove were just wore out.
Such an awesome truck- as you can see, theres a clear fan base- would love to see more on how the truck handles in your adventures! One day my d-max will be ready for some adventures as well. Thank you for posting!
Thanks man! I'll try to take some more video when I go out.
Bad ass truck brotha! I'd like to get myself something like your truck done up by WFO, but with a gas 6.0 gas engine.
Such a badass build! Well done!!! I’m in Georgetown would love to see this in person!
Thanks man.
Awesome truck it’s literally has everything
I love your truck dude very nice build.
Thanks man!
Love the truck! I have an 05 crew pretty much similar. I don’t love the FURD wheels, but I suppose the price was right. Well built!
Thanks man! Just recently got rid of those wheels and went with 17s
Solid build. Cool vid
Thanks, man
Great video . Seen the last one you made a while back . I would like to know how you got your power outlet ran to your bed I’m trying to do that to mine !! Happy Father’s Day btw
I ran a heavy guage outdoor extension cord from the inverter to the outlet. I just cut the end of cord off and wired it to the outlet. It's ran out of the vent at the back of the cab.
Working on getting my build on my 06 2500hd cat eye , was wondering what bed rack is that that you have
Anymore video's? I'd like to do something like this to my lbz. What's a rough cost number on doing the dana60 install? I go to tularosa mtn basin a couple times a year. These mods would be perfect.
I have a few more videos uploaded, but I dont have any great videos of the build or closeups.
The front axle I got for 600 bucks at the junkyard. The rest of the parts were around 4k from WFO. I eventually went with a Ford T-case which required new driveshafts. Case was 1200. Shafts were 750. You could skip that.... I ran the 263 for years before I got tired of it leaking.
I installed everything alone in 3 days. 1st day was cutting and cleaning. 2nd day was welding brackets. 3rd day was buttoning up steering / brakes / hubs / shafts. My wife helped me bleed the brakes.
@@mikkiejordan5540 I'm a bit surprised on the t-case. Any reason you went with that over an OEM rebuild? My plan is to use kodiak's t-case because of their bearing redesign. That's a 6" WFO lift I think I heard? It's really the perfect height and wheel combo with the 13.5" IMO.
@@LBZOverlander I went with the 273 for several reasons. The output shaft is aligned with the front axle eliminating some vibrations I had above 50 mph. It's also much much larger. It has flanges on both the front and rear outputs instead of slip yokes. And most importantly it doesn't leak lol
Mine came out to about 5" of lift. I would have done WFO 3" kit if it were available at the time for more uptravel
okay now I want to see where/how you mounted battery and water tank.
Mostly angle iron lol. I cut out the spare tire carrier and build an angle iron box for the rectangular water tank. It's bolted to the receiver and crossmember for the shocks. Did essentially the same thing for the 3rd battery. I'll see if I can get a video one day
@@mikkiejordan5540 Thanks, i have the gas version of your truck and was thinking about putting suburban/yukon gas tank where spare is. battery where you have air reel and water filter and pump where you have electric reel
@@j.walker3498 that actually sounds like a great plan!
Nice build. I like the steps. What’s the shop in Austin? I’m not far from there.
It was Torch Monkey Fab, but they have since gone out of business. May check out Bennett Built in Killeen, though.
I live in arizona
Do you mind showing how you set the A/C up? Been trying to rig something up. Mostly just looking into it, I haven’t set down any plans etc yet
I'll see what I can do. But it's basically an angle iron square that a window unit sits in. It has 3 legs that come down and rest on the rack.
Also, let me see your awning? Did you build it or buy?
I dont have a video on the awning, but it's an ARB awning. I'm sure there are some videos on it.
Please post ur list and price
How did you make your bed rack, what tent are you using? My 04 3500 has the long bed.
I built the rack out of 2x4 rectangle tubing and angle iron. It's mounted to the bed using L-track so it's quickly removable.
Tent is a Roam Vagabond
Looks like your hydraulic assist is leaking
Does you draglink rub you oil pan. Mine does using the stock ford drag link
It does not. But I'm running a drop pitman arm. Are you running a flat?
@@mikkiejordan5540 yes I am. Im running the wfo flat pitman arm
What did you have to do for the transfer case ?
I used the factory 263 for years until our started leaking. Then I got a Ford 273 from transfer case express.
For ur sas how much u spent total
Too many ford parts. Now it’s a cross breed