Check out my other video where I compare my Budget no-name router bit set with a slightly more expensive set from Trend - czcams.com/video/4E3YUjOJBvQ/video.html
Trend and Rockler smallest shanks are 6mm (quarter inch) It's looking like 3.2mm is not taken seriously when it comes to quality router bits. Looking like I might have to invest in a quarter inch hand router. . . . DO YOU THINK THAT TREND WOULD BE A SAFE BET FOR QUALITY DIY , not professional ???
@@richardclowes6123 I've been using Trend bits for a while now and it's night and day comparing to other budget router bits. They got some more expensive bits that are way better. I can honestly recommend Trend bits and their saw blades in fact as well 👍
Hi, great video ! Yes, you could be better off buying four high quality bits.. If you are a beginner perhaps buy a budget set and see which ones you wear out first.. Then replace them one at a time with high quality ones.. This way you will have a full selection to start with and the set will evolve and improve as your use dictates which bits are upgraded with time.
Initially, I bought a cheap set as well as a high quality 12mm straight cutter. The next purchase was very small round-over bits 3mm (1/8") and 4mm, which I use much more than the 6mm (1/4") and larger ones that came with the cheap set. Recently I bought some cheap top, bottom and double bearing flush cutters from eBay, and they work great especially when considering the price of under $3 each.
Hi Tomasz! I would like to add an extra comment about Round-over bits. A single 45 degree chamfer bit can be used to cut many different width chamfers like you show from 6:25 - just vary the depth of the plunge. However the same technique doesn't really work the same for round-over bits. ... Look at 4:05 - because of the bearing, they always cut cleanly on the side edge of the board. However if you only partially plunge like you suggest, then there will not be a rounded corner on the top edge. This means you have to plane and sand to rectify that, which is annoying and also is introducing a non-precise cut onto the most visible surface. ... If you only want small radius round-over, I suggest buying small 3mm (1/8") and 6mm (1/4") bits. The Ebay ones are cheap, and good enough to get started.
Another quality informative video Tomasz, I now tend to buy only Trend router bits the quality is so much better, that said I have (for many years) used the cheap no name ones with excellent results, a couple of observations: the cheap ones do not keep their edge as long as the Trend (sharpening is an option), however more importantly on the cheap bearing guided ones I have had a number of times when the bearing has failed completely ruining the workpiece, as this process can be towards the end of a job it can be really devastating, imagine an expensive kitchen worktop for example, so I tended to buy quality (SKF or FAG manufactured) replacement bearings, never (so far) had one of those fail, but it pushes the price of the cheap router bits up considerably.
Hehe well you had exactly the same issues as I did lol and I have recored those findings. That will be in my video next week. I'm comparing the Chinese no name set vs the Trend set.
Excellent tips, Tomasz! Thanks! 😃 I agree about the more expensive bits. You should start with the cheaper ones and then upgrade when you see you're buying too much of the same bit. Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hi thomasz and other viewers. Like other comments/viewers, I started with a box set of cutter bits and then upgraded the ones I use most but one thing I can definitely recommend is moving away from using regular 2 flute straight cutters and using upcut/downcut/compression bits instead. The finish is sooooo much better than regular 2 flute straight bits. I bought a few from Bangood and I must say, the quality for the price point is stunning and the price of the bits is so cheap compared to buying equivalent from Trend / Titman tools etc. I don't think I'll ever go back to regular straight cutter bits.
Thank you for another informative video Tomasz, always a pleasure watching these videos. Look forward to the comparison between the Trend set and the cheaper Chinese set.
Hi Tomasz. Nice simple introduction to router bits. Isn't it better to run the curved edge of the router base along the fence to avoid any slight variation in the cut if you don't keep the base carefully aligned to the fence through the whole cut. Not as easy as it sounds to be sure you are doing this especially with a bigger router with a two hand grip on the handles.
Nice thought through video mate 👍 I would probably include a biscuit cutter bit and round nose/cove bit also mate... Not only as in what the names suggest, but in providing a groove along edges to make tongue and groove joints when tweaked up/down as well as the round nose or cove bit for making channels or grooves also. Especially when dealing with worktops in drainage or connections...
@@CasualDIY it does indeed.. A biscuit cutter can be used to join pieces of lumber to help strengthen the joint as you already know. Besides a dowel, biscuits are the alternative to the expensive floating tenon as well
Top bearing guide vs bottom bearing guide - Helpful hint...👍 Hi Thomasz. If it helps other viewers 🙂 - try to use bottom bearing guides (where possible). If you have a top bearing, you cant rock the router forwards/away from you, as the base plate is on the top surface, but if you rock the router towards you, you lose contact with surface and so are not cutting consistently and could hack into the side of the work piece......but... with bottom bearing....the router can not rock either way as the router plate contacts the top surface, and the bottom bearing contacts the side surface, hence, much more difficult to 'mess it up'. Granted, not always viable to use bottom bearing guide but thought I'd mention.
That comment is misleading, since it ignores the normal forces being applied during use. When using the router, the baseplate of the router should remain in contact with the top surface at ALL times. You should never "rock the router", like you describe! ... When you are using a hand-held router on the edge of the work, you always have to PUSH the router towards the edge, or it will not cut. Thus the pressure force applied by the operator is always PUSHING TOWARDS the edge, and never pulling the router away from the edge! ... In fact, it's physically impossible to push the router into the work, yet at the same time pull it towards you like you describe. Just think about it. The top bearing acts just the same as when using a fence, which is also on the top - how can you simultaneously push towards and pull away from a fence? ... If you use a top bearing and you force the router too hard into the edge, then it pivots off the bearing and the cutter at the bottom moves AWAY from the work! If you push so far that the top bearing disengages, then you are doing it wrong. However, the risk of "hacking into the work" is higher if using your suggested bottom bearing. That's because even the slightest "over-pushing" that rocks the router away from you will ALWAYS dig the cutter into the work. ... No matter if the bearing is on the top, on the bottom, or there is no bearing at all... if you force the router in any direction so that the baseplate is no longer flat on the top surface, then you risk hacking into the work.
@@johncoops6897 I do find that with the small trimmer routers where the base is small it's fairly easily to tip it slightly so I think he has got a point to a certain degree even from personal experience 🤔
2:39…. You moved the fence towards the cut. This caused you to then back cut/climb cut your way along the second pass (thats why you zipped off so quick at the start. Move the fence away from the cutter to maintain your direction of cut rules. If you move it toward the cut, you have to cut the other way - this is why i dislike teaching the “left right rule” in routing as it only apply in very particular circumstances. Clockwise/anti clockwise always works in every situation. Cutting this way also means the router wants to wander off course, away from the guide so you can end up with cut lines that aren’t straight, leaving gaps in your joinery.
hi thomasz thanks for another great video and pointing me in the direction of your plans for the router table just a question have the plans been changed from the mistake you make in the video also i would like your advise on a router and plate to fit as it is very confusing trying to match up a router with a plate and also finding one that will work with the safety switch and help would be great as just getting into the wood making thanks for your time regards Gary
Hi, Yes the plans are changed to what I intended I the first place. However I do recommend double checking the measurements as I mentioned it seems that the saws dimensions vary a bit from saw to saw. I would not try to find a router that would fit a particular plate. Buy the router you feel is right for your circumstances and a plate. The plates are made from aluminium and you just need to drill additional holes for your router base if need be. As the are made from aluminium, drilling through them is very easy. For the safety switch just do a quick search on Amazon. Pick the one that has a socket to with you plug in the router. That's the easiest solution. Those can be a bit pricy tho. Hope this helps.
@@anthonymiddlesex6859 in general I would agree with that, however in this case the base is much larger on the flat sides. This means you got greater stability while pushing the router against a straight edge. However there are routers with smaller bases and smaller flat edges. And in that case I would use the round edge.
Check out my other video where I compare my Budget no-name router bit set with a slightly more expensive set from Trend - czcams.com/video/4E3YUjOJBvQ/video.html
Trend and Rockler smallest shanks are 6mm (quarter inch) It's looking like 3.2mm is not taken seriously when it comes to quality router bits. Looking like I might have to invest in a quarter inch hand router. . . . DO YOU THINK THAT TREND WOULD BE A SAFE BET FOR QUALITY DIY , not professional ???
@@richardclowes6123 I've been using Trend bits for a while now and it's night and day comparing to other budget router bits. They got some more expensive bits that are way better. I can honestly recommend Trend bits and their saw blades in fact as well 👍
Hi, great video ! Yes, you could be better off buying four high quality bits.. If you are a beginner perhaps buy a budget set and see which ones you wear out first.. Then replace them one at a time with high quality ones.. This way you will have a full selection to start with and the set will evolve and improve as your use dictates which bits are upgraded with time.
That's actually a very good solution. Thank you for your comment 😁👍
Initially, I bought a cheap set as well as a high quality 12mm straight cutter. The next purchase was very small round-over bits 3mm (1/8") and 4mm, which I use much more than the 6mm (1/4") and larger ones that came with the cheap set. Recently I bought some cheap top, bottom and double bearing flush cutters from eBay, and they work great especially when considering the price of under $3 each.
Hi Tomasz! I would like to add an extra comment about Round-over bits.
A single 45 degree chamfer bit can be used to cut many different width chamfers like you show from 6:25 - just vary the depth of the plunge. However the same technique doesn't really work the same for round-over bits.
...
Look at 4:05 - because of the bearing, they always cut cleanly on the side edge of the board. However if you only partially plunge like you suggest, then there will not be a rounded corner on the top edge. This means you have to plane and sand to rectify that, which is annoying and also is introducing a non-precise cut onto the most visible surface.
...
If you only want small radius round-over, I suggest buying small 3mm (1/8") and 6mm (1/4") bits. The Ebay ones are cheap, and good enough to get started.
Hmm true I guess. I do tend to touch the edges with sandpaper before applying finish so it usually rounds over nicely.
Another quality informative video Tomasz, I now tend to buy only Trend router bits the quality is so much better, that said I have (for many years) used the cheap no name ones with excellent results, a couple of observations: the cheap ones do not keep their edge as long as the Trend (sharpening is an option), however more importantly on the cheap bearing guided ones I have had a number of times when the bearing has failed completely ruining the workpiece, as this process can be towards the end of a job it can be really devastating, imagine an expensive kitchen worktop for example, so I tended to buy quality (SKF or FAG manufactured) replacement bearings, never (so far) had one of those fail, but it pushes the price of the cheap router bits up considerably.
Hehe well you had exactly the same issues as I did lol and I have recored those findings. That will be in my video next week. I'm comparing the Chinese no name set vs the Trend set.
5 seconds in and i'm liking you already! 👍
Hehe that's good 👍
@@CasualDIYThat was an excellent video! Have subbed and am gonna watch a few more over the next few days as got my first router coming next week! 👍
@@SevenDaysToNoon great to hear that, welcome aboard 👍
Excellent tips, Tomasz! Thanks! 😃
I agree about the more expensive bits. You should start with the cheaper ones and then upgrade when you see you're buying too much of the same bit.
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you very much. Exactly 👍
All the best for you and your family.
Thanks, great information along with your other beginner videos. I have enjoyed them all.
Glad to hear it. Thank you for watching 👍
Hi thomasz and other viewers.
Like other comments/viewers, I started with a box set of cutter bits and then upgraded the ones I use most but one thing I can definitely recommend is moving away from using regular 2 flute straight cutters and using upcut/downcut/compression bits instead.
The finish is sooooo much better than regular 2 flute straight bits.
I bought a few from Bangood and I must say, the quality for the price point is stunning and the price of the bits is so cheap compared to buying equivalent from Trend / Titman tools etc.
I don't think I'll ever go back to regular straight cutter bits.
That's on my list of videos to make actually. Comparing both. Have you got some links to those bits on Banggood by any chance please?
@@CasualDIY yes Thomasz. I can't sort it now as off to work but I'll send them to you later. 👍
@@theduftmeister thank you kindly 👍
@@CasualDIY popped in email for you👍
@@theduftmeister didn't get anything mate, my mail casualdiyuk@gmail.com thank you
Thank you for another informative video Tomasz, always a pleasure watching these videos. Look forward to the comparison between the Trend set and the cheaper Chinese set.
Thank you kindly. Yes that video will be out on Wednesday next week 👍
Hi Tomasz. Nice simple introduction to router bits. Isn't it better to run the curved edge of the router base along the fence to avoid any slight variation in the cut if you don't keep the base carefully aligned to the fence through the whole cut. Not as easy as it sounds to be sure you are doing this especially with a bigger router with a two hand grip on the handles.
Hmm I think it could be a personal preference. I do the same with trim base.
Nice thought through video mate 👍
I would probably include a biscuit cutter bit and round nose/cove bit also mate...
Not only as in what the names suggest, but in providing a groove along edges to make tongue and groove joints when tweaked up/down as well as the round nose or cove bit for making channels or grooves also. Especially when dealing with worktops in drainage or connections...
Thank you. Yes it all depends what work you do I guess 🤔👍
@@CasualDIY it does indeed.. A biscuit cutter can be used to join pieces of lumber to help strengthen the joint as you already know. Besides a dowel, biscuits are the alternative to the expensive floating tenon as well
Great video mate, nice and clear instructions as always. The garage shop is looking great btw 👍
Thank you kindly 👍 😁
Yet another informative video Tomasz 👍👍
Thank you kindly 👍 😁
Awesome! Very detailed, thanks
Thank you for watching
Top bearing guide vs bottom bearing guide - Helpful hint...👍
Hi Thomasz.
If it helps other viewers 🙂 - try to use bottom bearing guides (where possible).
If you have a top bearing, you cant rock the router forwards/away from you, as the base plate is on the top surface, but if you rock the router towards you, you lose contact with surface and so are not cutting consistently and could hack into the side of the work piece......but... with bottom bearing....the router can not rock either way as the router plate contacts the top surface, and the bottom bearing contacts the side surface, hence, much more difficult to 'mess it up'.
Granted, not always viable to use bottom bearing guide but thought I'd mention.
Fantastic tip thanks you very much for sharing 👍
That comment is misleading, since it ignores the normal forces being applied during use. When using the router, the baseplate of the router should remain in contact with the top surface at ALL times. You should never "rock the router", like you describe!
...
When you are using a hand-held router on the edge of the work, you always have to PUSH the router towards the edge, or it will not cut. Thus the pressure force applied by the operator is always PUSHING TOWARDS the edge, and never pulling the router away from the edge!
...
In fact, it's physically impossible to push the router into the work, yet at the same time pull it towards you like you describe. Just think about it. The top bearing acts just the same as when using a fence, which is also on the top - how can you simultaneously push towards and pull away from a fence?
...
If you use a top bearing and you force the router too hard into the edge, then it pivots off the bearing and the cutter at the bottom moves AWAY from the work! If you push so far that the top bearing disengages, then you are doing it wrong.
However, the risk of "hacking into the work" is higher if using your suggested bottom bearing. That's because even the slightest "over-pushing" that rocks the router away from you will ALWAYS dig the cutter into the work.
...
No matter if the bearing is on the top, on the bottom, or there is no bearing at all... if you force the router in any direction so that the baseplate is no longer flat on the top surface, then you risk hacking into the work.
@@johncoops6897 I do find that with the small trimmer routers where the base is small it's fairly easily to tip it slightly so I think he has got a point to a certain degree even from personal experience 🤔
2:39…. You moved the fence towards the cut. This caused you to then back cut/climb cut your way along the second pass (thats why you zipped off so quick at the start.
Move the fence away from the cutter to maintain your direction of cut rules. If you move it toward the cut, you have to cut the other way - this is why i dislike teaching the “left right rule” in routing as it only apply in very particular circumstances. Clockwise/anti clockwise always works in every situation.
Cutting this way also means the router wants to wander off course, away from the guide so you can end up with cut lines that aren’t straight, leaving gaps in your joinery.
@@BrainFizz yes true, easy to mess up when you focused on something else 😅👍
Thank you Tomasz..
Thank you for watching 👍
I like how youve placed your router table into your tablesaw .....do you have a video how you put that together ? ps great video !!
Hehe I think you got it now 😄 all the best mate
hi thomasz thanks for another great video and pointing me in the direction of your plans for the router table just a question have the plans been changed from the mistake you make in the video also i would like your advise on a router and plate to fit as it is very confusing trying to match up a router with a plate and also finding one that will work with the safety switch and help would be great as just getting into the wood making thanks for your time
regards
Gary
Hi,
Yes the plans are changed to what I intended I the first place. However I do recommend double checking the measurements as I mentioned it seems that the saws dimensions vary a bit from saw to saw. I would not try to find a router that would fit a particular plate. Buy the router you feel is right for your circumstances and a plate. The plates are made from aluminium and you just need to drill additional holes for your router base if need be. As the are made from aluminium, drilling through them is very easy. For the safety switch just do a quick search on Amazon. Pick the one that has a socket to with you plug in the router. That's the easiest solution. Those can be a bit pricy tho. Hope this helps.
@@CasualDIY thanks for the tips :)
Never move the fence to get wider groove.
So how do you do it then mate?
@@CasualDIY masking tape trick. Add layers of masking tape till you get it perfect. Believe me I did it when building a router table.
DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO BUY GOOD QUALITY 3.2mm ROUTER BITS THAT WILL FIT IN A DREMEL. i.e. ones with bearings etc, not the cheap Amazon ones.
Sorry no idea
Hi Tomasz,
I looking for a budget palm router for DIY usage. Can u recommend something good but inexpensive? Thx
If corded then I would definitely go for Katsu
Here is my video on it czcams.com/video/uY_oualtEBA/video.html
never use the flat side of the router base always use the rounded side................bad move
Interesting, care to explain why you think that?
because if you slightly move it you end up with a wonky line...................if you use the round side you have more movement watch hooked on wood
@@anthonymiddlesex6859 in general I would agree with that, however in this case the base is much larger on the flat sides. This means you got greater stability while pushing the router against a straight edge. However there are routers with smaller bases and smaller flat edges. And in that case I would use the round edge.
czcams.com/video/mtKsbsQI0_4/video.html@@CasualDIY