How to change an oil sending unit on 2007-2014 Chevrolet, GMC, Silverado, Suburban, Escalade. Tahoe,
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- Detailed instructions on how to replace an oil sending unit on a GM Truck/Suburban/Escalade/Avalanche/Denali 2007-20014. Fix for no oil pressure or erratic oil pressure.
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After seeing how much work people go through to make these video's I always give a thumbs up if only for their effort.
I did this repair today on a 2008 suburban thanks to this video. Thank you very much. A tip for any others about to tackle this job: DO NOT buy a 12 point socket. I started out using one and had to stop mid repair and go get a 6 point socket because the 12 point began to strip the existing unit. Another helpful tip: if you have two smartphones capable of video calling, use them to get behind the noise panel and see what needs to be done. I couldn't use them while actually working but it was useful in figuring out what exactly I needed to do and where. As for easiest access to the area, I happened to have a 2'x4' cushioned mat that I laid across the front of the engine bay and then I laid on the mat on my right side. This made it relatively easy to get my hand where it needed to be. If you don't have a mat, you could maybe use layers of cardboard or something similar.
I tried cardboard layers, I immediately fell through and am currently stuck face down ass up watching a squirrel trying to nest in the engine bay cuz it's warm and cozy and it's obvious to the little guy that neither me or the trucks moving anytime soon😂
As a novice, this video was a huge help, and I saved the $1,000 the auto shop quoted me. Not to mention, I spent maybe an hour and a half getting this done, but that's because I kept going back and forth to this video to make sure I wasn't missing anything. That hour and a half would have been wasted getting to the auto shop and then juggling cars in the household to get things done. Well worth it. In total, I think I spent less than $30. I thought I would mention a couple of things that I hope are helpful to novice mechanics like myself. 1) Make sure and purchase a line removal tool. This will be for the fuel line. There are a couple of spring loaded tabs that will need to be depressed and the tool makes it simple. I think I paid $8 at O"Reilly's (5/8 line if I recall). 2) I had some challenges removing the electrical connector on top of the OSU. There is a video posted on CZcams that shows how the connector works. Definitely worth watching and understanding how to remove this. If you can get your phone back there to take a picture, it may help in identifying where the retainer clip is located and the tab you need to press as you are pulling the electrical connector. Most of this will be done by feel. Great video, and well worth the effort, so thanks for posting!
Just did mine without removing anything and what a pain in the ass, found this video after and it would have definitely helped me fit my bigger hands back there...... oh well its a silverado and I'm guessing I'll be doing it again with better knowledge next time. Thanks for the great video.
Thank you David!!!! 7 years later and you have saved me 💰…thank you!!!
I fought and fought to get the 1 1/16 socket on the sensor, but the sound guard plastic piece made it impossible for the perfect fitting socket, so I went slightly larger and used a 27mm deep socket. There was just enough play for me to be able to fit it on the sensor with the slight angle need to clear the plastic, but it was still snug enough to loosen it and tighten the new sensor. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
I had the same problem.
Great video... This covered everything that I needed to know to get the job done EXCEPT for one little thing.
The sensor was indexed on my vehicle so that the gray locking tab faced the front of the vehicle and this made it functionally impossible to lift the tab and then reach past it to squeeze the detente and remove the plug. No matter what I tried, I was unable to keep from inadvertently pushing the tab back into its locked position. After a great deal of frustration and swearing, I took a careful look at the plug and decided to try to remove the locking tab. I pulled it off by prying slightly with a pair of needle-nose pliers and it popped out easily enough. With that piece removed, this became a VERY simple job; the plug came right up, the bad sensor was easy to extract, the new sensor was easy to install and the plug had a nice, positive "click" when reinserted over the new sensor. I started the engine and the sensor worked.
I'm not necessarily recommending that anyone follow my procedure, but it may be helpful to someone to know that the locking tab CAN be removed without damaging the function of the equipment.
your method of removing the gray locking tab works i used it and it took me about 10 mins to remove and install the new one
What year and model please. I'm doing this job on Wednesday in my 2011 Avalanche. I fear I'll run into this same issue
2009 Suburban. My advice would be to just remove the locking tab at the first hint of “OMG, this is impossible”
@@IAmPaulBunyan1978 I did the repair today! I was able to get the tab without breaking but I was getting close to the OMG moment lol. Then I had the OMG moment when I couldn't loosen the bad sensor because it was in so tight and at a bad angle to get much torque on ratchet. It doesn't help I'm left handed and that is on the right lol. Was using my weak arm to try to loosen the sensor. Man it was frustrating!
I just got done mine. The dealer was going to charge me approximately $1000. And 2 hrs To do it. Talking over with my friend he said you get the part cheaper on line. So I did. The dealer said $90 just for the part. Amazon little over $40. All said and done. Big thanks to this video and my friend for helping me. It took approximately 30,45 minutes to remove and install new sensor.
People if you need something replaced , repaired what ever. You tube it first before calling someone to do it or get a estimate price. You can do anything you put your mind too. just need some guidance so you don’t get ripped off by the business man. Thanks again.
This video was spot on for replacing oil pressure sensor in 07 GMC Yukon XL 1500. Made the job quick and less painful (my poor hand still hurts)! Took about an hour start to finish and I am no mechanic.
I'm not a tall guy 5'7 ..I had to lay a board on the alternator and that brace by that electrical box and climb up and lay there about 20 minutes for good reach after disconnecting those lines D.J. pointed out in this excellent instructional....Thank You David.
David, thank you for sharing your knowledge and tips on this. My 2007 Chevy Tahoe Oil pressure gauge was pegged at startup and the check engine light was on. For about $50 in parts (new sensor and the 1 1/16th inch socket) and about an hour of work I was able to replace and get everything back together again. I gently used a breaker bar to get the sensor loose and switched to the ratchet to finish taking it off. I didn't have a fuel line removal tool so I left it on, so it took a little longer to work my hand back there. There Great video and gave me the confidence that I could do this job myself.
saved us $425, thank you for the quick and easy fix, AS NOTED, get the socket and the universal joint ratchets. Also make sure you have the gas line removal tool, with those out of the way it was tight but definitely worth the savings. CHEERS
I've got an '04' Suburban 5.3L and my local tire and general repair shop (who are, as I type this finding and fixing a gas leak) told me how labor intensive and costly it would be for them to install my sending unit which I bought during warmer weather but postponed installing so I could check CZcams for good guys like you David and I'm glad he motivated me to finally at least look for help.Again thank you David for sharing your experience with newbies like myself this at least took some of the stress off my mind.Now I just need warmer weather too come back so I give it a go.David," live long and prosper "as a wise man once said.
You are my hero. Without this I would have spent a day screwing around. Took 30 minutes just like you said. Didn't remove the fuel line and didn't need the flex head ratchet
Cheers
Definitely helps me with my friends truck; much different from the old school Chevy's I usually work on. Thank you sir :)
Edit: No need to remove the fuel line or vapor return line; only remove the hose off the vacuum assist. I know, I just did exactly that. Thanks again for locating the part for me. Cheers :)
Thanks
Do you have big ol bear paws like the man in this video?
Great video,Thank you! We just did this on 2012 Silverado 6.2l. The biggest issue we had was removing the 1 1/16” deep socket AFTER installing the new sensor. Because the sensor is mounted high on a “boss” the socket slipped down over it. When we attempted to remove the socket it got hung up on a step in the sound shield plastic piece. We had to remove the sensor which allowed us to get the socket out. Then we packed the socket with paper towels to prevent it from going down too far over the boss. That worked but the job was more like 90 minutes for us! Thanks again for a great tutorial.
You are the MAN!
If I ever get to meet you I'll buy you a nice cold beer.
Took me about 45min to replace the sensor. Tried first without removing the fuel line but it was too narrow. I could barely get the socket on but not the u-joint&shaft.
Now the gauge is back to normal and I'm left to take care of all scratches on my hands&arms ;-)
Best video on this. Tight is no joke. Used the same socket setup, thanks!
Glad you liked it!
You are the man!!!! I wish I could "like" this video 100 times. My buddy was about to pay a shop $400 for this job. We watched your video and decided to give it a go tonight. 30 minutes total was all it took. Easy as could be with the swivel and swiveling ratchet combo. BTW, everyone around here wanted around $60 for the sensor. Amazon has them for $35.00 shipped.
Thank you so much.
I could not afford to pay someone to do this. I really appreciate your video
Dave - Thanks for this helpful Video! Using your guidance, I just finished doing this on my wife's 2013 Tahoe 5.3L. (Gauge pegged at 80PSI, PO582 code) Unfortunately, the grey clip on the electrical connector was inaccessible. I used my Dremmel to enlarge the hole on the heat/sound shield an additional inch or so. Made it much easier to access the clip and to see what I was doing. I can't stress enough that when tightening the new sensor, to only tighten another 1/8 to 1/4 turn once the aluminum crush gasket makes contact with the manifold. I went too far on my first try and sheared the top of the sensor off. Fortunately, was able to get the threaded part out with a #3 screw extractor. Another $50 sensor and all fixed. Still much better than paying a garage to do this. Thanks again!
Thanks for the tips. I was able to change one out without having to unhook any lines or anything thanks to my skinny arms and hands
Thanks so much for putting this video out here. I was able to change the sensor on my wife’s 2011 6.2 L Denali in about two hours and the credit goes to you. Many, many thanks!
Literrally took me 20 mins to do myself. Didn't have to disconnect any lines. Hardest part was getting my hand in there to disconnect the sensor cable. Once I got that off...smooth sailing. Cost me $66 for the part and $40 for the wrench and accessories versus $580 that dealership wanted to charge me. So thanks for the video.
How do you remove the cover to get to the sensor?????
+Melissa Hallman I didnt need to remove the cover. If you buy the wrench and all the sockets the wrench slides behind it and fits behind the cover. I have huge hands and I was still able to do it.
Checked with the local dealer in town.. they wanted to charge me $400.00 , stated they needed to take off the intake to replace the sending unit.. I completed this in 45 min... most of that time was spent getting the hose off above the sensor... That is the only one you need to remove to get the sensor out... don't let anyone else fool you...
I like how you emphasize how frustrating this job is, other videos don't.
Very helpful video. It isn't easy, but I got it done in about 2 hours with some help. I definitely had to remove the fuel line and PCV hose...which I broke because it was brittle. Dealer quoted $587, independent shope wanted $350....both were planning to remove the intake.
This video save me $300 in labor! My wife took our Suburban in to a local mechanic and was told it was a very labor intense job. I knew from a google search that it was more than likely the oil pressure sending unit but didn't know where it was let alone how to remove and replace it. I struggled a bit and didn't remove a couple of the hoses you suggested but I knew because of my small wrist i could fit it between the fire wall and the back of the engine . So that should hopefully help out others who watch this video. But what really upsets me is the mechanic told my wife it was at least 2hrs in labor. Thanks to you and people like you, it gives me hope that I can do these things on my own. By the way it took me roughly 45 mins. Thanks again, I so appreciate your help....
5 years later & that sweet bill of $300 for a $30 part hasn’t changed. Wish me luck!
@@giovannicortez4448 Are the any other major problems with this vehicle????
@@mercedesbenzs600bash No, that was the quote just for the installation of Sender
@@giovannicortez4448 OK thanks im gonna get me a 2014 sometime this year,they sound pretty durable and reliable...
@@mercedesbenzs600bash I have a 2010 LT 5.3L, they’re nice vehicles! Easy to maintain, love not having to use a jack for the oil change! Mine has 168,000 Mi & I just changed all the fluids and bill came out to $930 total not including AC, so not bad. Could have done all the fluid changes myself & not paid $350 in labor but the wifey wanted it done quick since we were going on a road trip lol
Nice video. Didn't have to disconnect fuel line, just the two vent lines. Was able to reach in there, barely. Having the right tools makes it easier. Thank you.
Great Video! On my 2008 Avalanche it was a royal pain getting back there. Absolutely disconnect the fule line and the barke booster. I replaced mine with a universal right above the 27mm which had a little too much play. A wooble would probably be better. My tips:
* absolutely remove the fuel line and pull it up over the stupid gm shield
* Do the same with the brake booster
* When you put the new unit in, lubricate the threads with anti sease or something else that will let you hand tighten
* Hand tighten as far as you possibly can, spend extra time here.
* After you hand tighten GENTLY get your socket assembly over the unit, and watch through the windows that the socket stays seated as you turn. Try to get the ratchet as high up behind the shield as you can to keep the angle as small as possible on any universals. One slip and it is another trip to the auto parts store. The plastic breaks easy (I broke 2). When it is tight enough you will hear the compression washer on the bottom click. STOP and gently remove the socket.
* Look through the window in the shield and make sure everything looks ok.
*Reassemble
If you get a P0521 (Low EOP Voltage) code after install, you broke it. Start over.
So this is the first time I felt compeled to comment on a video. This gentleman really put together a nice video. It saved me a bunch of money and hours of guess work. Thank you very much for your help and your time! Took me about 45 minutes get the new sending unit installed, most of which was trying to get the new unit started, great tip using the twine. Everything is so tight on new vehicles, but shame on GM for their placement of everything. The unit as others have said was a bear to get to, plus I have a larger hand. You know it's especially bad when you need to change out marker light bulbs on your truck and you need to drop the bumper. Come on GM!!!!!
+Robert Nelson Thanks for your input I am glad it helped we are making a lot more.
Just did this job... took my time... about 1 hour to replace both the sensing unit and filter. Good catch on the computer reset... Don't forget the valve lifter filter while you have the sensing unit off.
Thanks!
Thanks for the great easy to follow video. I just changed out the sensor on my 07 Yukon XL Denali tonight. Took 30-45 minutes tops. I bought the OEM sensor at NAPA for $51.99 + Tax. I bought the socket, knuckle, and the ratchet at O'Reilly for just under $40.00. I had the extension already.
I did this exactly as described. Had to learn about the quick disconnect tool. You were right about the tight squeeze! I found that when I unscrewed the sensor past a certain point, I ended up pinning the socket against the firewall. Had to tighten it back a few turns and then get my hand in there and unscrew it the rest of the way by hand. I did get it done though. Thanks for the video!
Just did it this afternoon following your advice. Didn't take me 30min. Rather 2h30. The bastard didn't want to break free. But good clip, good advice! It definitely helped me. Thanks! PS: a guy just gave me a tip for the freaking screen: tread a bolt instead of trying to pick it out like everyone does. Wish I knew that earlier.
Well done. You can be rightly proud of your accomplishment even though it took longer than you originally expected.
I would love to give this guy the biggest hug ever!!!! Thanks to him for the beautiful knowledge
David Jones. You are the man. Thanks for showing the world an easy wat to get accurate oil pressure back. I was actually able to get it in and out without removing the fuel, evap lines. Guess it's my small hands. Although they didn't help retrieving the socket and extensions from the top of the tranny after I dropped it. Oh and make sure to let the engine cool off. Its HOT back there. All and all it was easy as you said. Thanks again!!!
David - Thank You!!! This was a great video and probably the best on CZcams for this type of repair. If it weren't for this video, I never could have done it myself and I am not mechanically inclined at all. Took me just under an hour from start to finish. It would have a been shorter time but I spent too much time trying to undo hoses. Thanks again for providing the right tools needed and confidence to do it. By far this was the hardest mechanic job I've ever done.
Thank you for the video. I followed your instructions and was able to do both the sensor and screen in 45 minutes. Saved me over $325 in labor charges.
Nice!
Really helpful, followed it step by step and worked out perfectly. The bigger issue i had was removing the filter but i came out eventually. Thank you sir
I guess I may be a flunkie. I watched your video, went out and bought all the parts and spent about an hour getting no where. 2008 Tahoe. I've done quite a bit of mechanical work on my cars from watching CZcams videos. I even tried trimming the heat shield behind the intake and I could barely see it, let alone get it out. Going in the shop next week. Congrats, you made it look easy.
Great video David! After diagnosing it myself with code reader (P0521/P0523), stealer quoted $450 over the phone (not to mention there are usually add-ons after they are finished), but I was able to do it for less than $100 and less than 30 mins. It was actually easier than expected. Took a second to get situated on where it was exactly behind the protective shroud, but clear sailing after that. Sourced a great swivel head ratchet, fuel line release tool and AC Delco sensor on Amazon. Great stuff! So cool when the DIY'er succeeds! Keep 'em coming David!
+Scott Riley Thank You we are making more.
Scott Riley how much did the sensor itself run you ?
The sensor itself is less than $20
Thank you! I was worried the oil pump went out. I don't know how you got your hand behind the sound barrier! I'm a woman with small hands and I was having a tough time getting the oil sending unit back on. It took me 4 tries then I got it ! Thank again!
You are the man! Replaced sending unit and screen in 45 min last night. my buddy thought for sure we did something wrong because it went so smooth.
Thanks man, you're spot on. I just changed my sending unit 30 minutes ago.
I just wanted to get on here to say, thanks. I just saw your video the day before yesterday and changed my sending unit in my 07 Tahoe the next day. Your video was the best one I found out of the rest for this job and I don’t think I would’ve done it without that. Awesome video my man, keep up the good work.
Very helpful video. Thanks for taking the time to record it. My '08 Tahoe now has a new screen and sending unit. ODO has 215K miles and counting....
David, Thank You, I watched a few videos on changing this oil pressure sensor. And YOURS was by far the most helpful to me in accomplishing this task. Great Job. Thank You again
Good video. Helped a bunch and saved $$$. Switch was $51, socket was $10. Took about an hour.
Would have been nice to see the tool for removing the fuel line. Got the safety off easy enough, didn't have a tool to get the line to separate.
Did it with the fuel line in place.
My gauge read 0 initially. Let it run for 30 seconds or so. It began indicating. Didn't have to reset the computer.
Your video was right on. I managed to change it out in less than half an hour and not a single knuckle buster (no blood). Hardest part was getting that plastic engine cover back on. Thanks for your expertise. Biggest problem is the part is almost 100 bucks up here in Canada
Hi, so you know I did do exactly what you suggested the first time was frustrating hard but it was done. Now after a year I am having the same problem with the oem AC Delco oil sensor but this time I used my reliable soldering iron carefully sliced that annoying plastic shroud with out cutting burning anything else . Finally with lots patience and carefully heat slicing I can visibly see and easily replace the oil sensor on my 2011 suburban. Now since I cut out the piece all my future replacements will be easy. That plastic shroud makes it incredibly hard to mount or replace it but when it gone its super easy! Thank you for your video!
Thanks for sharing. You saved us working people lots of time and money. I have 2007 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 with a 5.3 flex fuel engine. I changed the sensor last weekend and yes it was a pain in the butt. I spent about an hour working on it. I just removed the vacuum lines and was barely able to reach it. I purchased the factory part on line for about $60 shipped. After I received the part, I probably could have bought the same one on amazon for $30. Thanks again.
David, this was super helpful! I am locked down with my family in California and my oil gauge just started going bananas on my 07 Tahoe. Mocked up your deep socket wrench and got the job done. Thank a lot for posting this.
This helped a lot! I was able to replace my oil pressure sending unit with your tips. You saved me a couple hundred dollars. Thanks for posting this.
Is this the same as a oil pressure sensor.
Most folks don't mention disconnecting the fuel lines. That is a must on some years and models. Everyone says you need a wobble extension. I bought Lisle socket 13250 and it is a wobble socket. Good thing since I don't own wobble extensions! Thanks for a very helpful video.
Just did mine in less than 20 minutes! Did it the way you said easy peasy.
And got big 🖐 lol 😂 thank you 🙏
I just want to say is, thank you! I did follow a couple of the steps you gave and I replaced my 2007 tahoe lt oil presdure sensur in less than one hour, thanks for this video, it was really helpful.
+juanvanegas1976 Thanks
The location of this is in the front just to the side of the alternator (middle of the block) on my 2014 Sierra 5.3 V8 allterrain. The reputation of this part being notorious on the fail meter, seems that GM finally got a brain and relocated it to make easier to change out.
Thanks for the video and tip on the socket and ratchet. Worked perfectly. I did go to O'Reilly AP for a fuel line removal tool and he said to make sure to relieve the fuel pressure. Not sure if that is truly important as not much came out of the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Saved at least $250!
Nice thanks for watching
This was a great video. To the point, and great info. My oil pressure would run fine until it got hot and then it would drop slowly. I replaced this with a 6 inch extension, and the wobbler and the special socket on a 3/8 drive. Go ahead and buy the more expensive sending unit as the cheap one broke with little pressure and the more expensive one the plug lines up when you go to reinstall it and the cheap one put the latch on the on the fire wall side where you cant see it. Thanks man! great vid
I just got a quote for $500. They said the "book" requires them to remove the intake. (even though we know they don't need to). Ordered the part, screen and socket from Amazon for $55. THANK YOU!
I would not have been able to complete it with my good friend Stan, without his help it would taken even longer.
Thank you for this video it was as easy as you said. It took us an 40 minutes to get the sensor out. and about 5 minutes to put it all back together. Just make sure you have the special tool to remove the quick connect fuel line. That was the only snag for us.
THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO
I just did this today on 2011 Avalanche.
Took me about 4 hours.
Problems I had. 1. Getting fuel line off. 2. Electrical connection plug on sensor was a bear. There was a gray colored u shape tab that has to come up about eighth of inch to allow tab to push in and release connector.
3. Next problem and for me the hardest. The darn sensor was so tight it took a lot of effort to free it. But once that sensor was removed, I used a bolt to thread in the hold and catch the insides of the filter. Then pop that out and use same bolt threaded into new filter to provide a pushing rod for new filter. It will pop down in place in the hole and then I hand threaded the new sensor in.
I'm not a mechanic but I am mechanical. I did it. I bought a special deep well socket with thin walls. Had to disconnect the end of one hose and disconnect fuel line ( use special tool) and remove the evap hose completely.
Hope this can help someone else. THANKS AGAIN! YOUR VIDEO HELPED A LOT!
very helpful information...I went a step further and put 4 universals together and didn't have to remove anything..try that out..
I just did this the way you described. The actual book procedure requires intake manifold removal. What a time saver.
Have you ever been proposed to on you tube? Lol
Brian Jones you suck one want you
What a pain it was to replace this sender !
Thank you for making it even possible !
Are there any other major problems with this vehicle???
This guy knows what he is talking about.
Thanks for a great video, it was extremely helpful. I changed out the oil sending unit on my 08 Silverado in about 30 min. I wasn't able to disconnect that fuel line that you had disconnected because I didn't have the proper tool to pop it off. Still, I managed without the extra space. Anyways... The gauge is working again and all the problem codes are gone so thanks again!
+Steve Fernie Thanks, making more
I have to change out mine tommorrow. I hope it takes me 30 minutes on my 08 Sierra.
Just changed mine this evening on 08 Silverado....Only thing I removed was top cover on top of engine...The tools used were 27mm deep socket , 1/2 swivel, a 10in extension and ratchet....Not a mechanic by any means but worked like a charm...
I used 1/2" ratchet, 4" extension, 27 mm deep socket and a universal joint (key tool for this job). Don't know about your vehicles down there but ours in Canada have mixed bag of metric and SAE nuts and bolts. 27mm fit better than the 1 1/16 socket. i also put some Teflon tape on threads of the new sender.
Larry Dale The OEM sensor from the dealer came with teflon tape embedded in the valleys of the threads, so no extra was needed for their sensor.
Thank;s David I used your Video I had to Disconnect Fuel Line . Boy it was in a tight place When I took it out it must off fell somewhere in the engine I never saw it but I don't know if the filter came off or not Very hard to see I just drop the new sensor on . So far so good .Thank you David It took 1hr ..
Great video. Very helpful. The only thing that i had to figure out was how to get the clip off. The grey clip comes off first then you can lift it off. Wish i could add pics.
This was a great video. Fairly easy to do, it will take some patience however. I did not have the tool to disconnect the fuel line, however I was still able to make it work. I found it easier to put the socket on the sending unit and then attach the universal joint, extension, etc piece by piece. Took a little over an hour start to finish. Well worth the dollars saved. Thank you.
Thank you very much....! I have 07 Ext Escalade with the same problem...
Thank you so much for this video!! Because of this I tackled this myself and saved at least $300. It is awesome that you took the time to make this you are a stud!!
Thank You
Ruben Rivera what if that does work
I did the one on my wife's old 07 Tahoe. All I took off was the top plastic cover. I used a ratchet, extension and elbow with a deep well socket. It's a booger but you can do it.
Good tip. Only took me about a hour. Just because I had to go get the fuel line removal kit. However it was very fast and easy.
I changed one in a 2008 GMC and I must say it was a bit difficult I didnt disconnect any lines,but like they said in other comments having the right tools gets the job done
Good tip in a tight area. I know because I changed the motor one time, the firewall is so close by. Thanks
+GILLEBRATH Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I just did this to our 2007 GMC Yukon. Wouldn't have been able to do it without this video! Oil pressure gage now working!👍
This job was a pain in the ass....but worth saving $400 over going to the dealer. My hand is BEAT up after this job. One extra tip is to use a bit of electrical tape around the base of the socket letting it overlap the socket by about an 1/8th and wrap it over the base of the sensor to hold the sensor in the socket while you thread it in. After you get it started pull the socket and remove the tape. I dropped the sensor 3 times and had to fish it out from the valley before using this tape trick. Just my $.02. Took me about 30 min, minus the time to fine the sensor each time I dropped it. Haha.
Same here. I dropped the darn thing and could not find it After much headache I finally saw it and was able to grab it with grabber. There is a small filter at the bottom which I fished out with a socket extension and then lost the new one when attempting to replace it, so I reused the old one which looked clean anyway. Huge PITA if you are a big guy have big hands/arms, but definite money saving method.
Good video!
I have replaced a few and it is uncomfortable, but easy. Just did a 2009 Yukon Denali oil pressure switch today. Customer couldn't get it inspected because if kept tripping a P0523 code.
I just cut the plastic "sound barrier " back with oscillating tool and some tin snips , being careful not to cut hoses or lines, gave me easy acces to unclip electric and drop socket down onto, then slid ratchet under hoses/gas line , popped it on socket and voila!
I have a 2011 Hybrid Tahoe. It needs a couple of things that I believe I can do myself. This wasn’t one of them, but after watching this I believe I have the confidence to at least attempt it. I also need to replace the throttle body.
Very helpful. It was Definately a tight space but after changing the sensor, the pressure went up to 40. Thanks
6:24 " dont fight me now" true working man dialogue 💪🏼!
Thank you very much for your video sir just done replacing mine it took me 36 minutes from start to finish. 2007 cadillac escalade.
thank you for the step by step just a heads up for the people that have an 07 chevy tahoe flex fuel it's a 27mm socket.
Very helpful advice. Did mine today in around 45 minutes. Saved a bunch of money. Thanks for your help.
thanks for giving me the confidence to try it..... 40 minutes to change on my 2010 "Silveraydo" with my skinny arms i didnt dico any lines saved a little time. would have been done sooner if i didnt drop the old one down on top of the trany
Nice . it is tight in there. Thanks for watching
You’re the man! Swapped mine out in 30 mins!
Great video. I was having trouble finding the sending unit until I saw this. Thank you!
John M Thanks
I’ve changed them in 15 minutes to 1 1/2 hours. It depends on how lucky I get with disconnecting the electrical, getting socket on unit and threading the new unit in. Sometimes it’s been quick sometimes not
i know I'm kinda off topic but does anybody know a good place to stream newly released movies online ?
@Deangelo Dario Flixportal =)
@Nixon Leonidas thank you, I signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :D I really appreciate it !
@Deangelo Dario Glad I could help :)
For anyone who is butterfingered and drops the new sensor or socket behind the motor while fiddling with this, use some really light fishing line tied around the sensor until you have it threaded, and pull it off when it's threaded in. I did this job in under 30 minutes, and left the fuel line attached. It's not that bad, most of the fussing was getting the u-joint onto the socket during installation.
you answered all my questions in the first 30secs. i will try this tomorrow
Very helpful and a well done video. I did have to use a 3/8 flex head stubby ratchet to finally get my old sensor out, but everything else you said in this one was right on. Thanks
David, thanks man!! you had to save me an hour of head scratching and cursing, lol. they really did put that sound barrier in just about the worst place for the job, lol. my pal and i both thank you for posting this!
thanks u very much just fix my mom yukon and save us tons of money that we dont have. its a tight fit but was worth it thank u
+Genaro Garcia Thanks for the feedback
for more room up front take the two bolts off of the trans mount at the rear of trans. Jack up the trans until it hits the trans tunnel. This gives you about an extra 2 inches of clearance by the firewall. I did it this way and didnt have to disconnect anything else to remove the sensor.