*** UPDATE to the video *** Under the sensor is a small screen. I had it but was told by a few people it wouldn't be necessary to replace it so I didn't. A few hours after installing the sensor and uploading this video I took the truck for a ride and the warning came back on. I brought it home, took the sensor back out, fished out the screen and replaced it. I drove the vehicle again and all seems to be well... My suggestion is to also replace the screen.
27MM!!! 27MM!!! 27MM!!! 27MM!!! 27MM!!! 27MM!!! Great video, thanks. Just swapped mine out on my 2012 Silverado in less than 10 minutes thanks to this. I used a 3/8 straight ratchet -> 5" extension -> 3/8 to 1/2 adapter -> 1/2 swivel -> 27mm socket.
This video was very helpful, along with the comments others made about their experience doing the job. I struggled a little to get the screen out, but it turns out the 1/4" extension fits snugly into the screen, pulled out easy.
Dave I’ve been a subscriber for quite some time now. I saw this video a while ago and thought “I’ll never have to do that”. Well here I am watching this video as I now have to replace this sensor on my own truck. Thank you very much for the video and for everything else that you do!
Way to go Dave! I am always cautious when it comes to working on my cars/trucks, so I end up taking them to the dealership. You had great advice from your mechanic. Now go and enjoy the rest of your day off!
@@DaveBsellsChevy Question, on that chevy motor, if you crank the truck, and oil pressure is 40psi, then starts to drop slowly, and bottoms out round 20psi while driving, DO you think that's a weak oil pump, or sensor ?
I have an 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500. Thanks to this video, and having small hands lol, changing the sensor should be fairly easy. 🤞🏼 look forward to more videos like this…? 😊
Well done man. I'm in North Alabama with an oil pressure problem. I am optimistic replacing the sensor solves it. I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Hopefully with the sensor replacement I will be back up and running. With your instruction, I now know what tools I need and the steps to take. 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with the 5.3L V8.
Was just seeing another video to replace same sensor, needed to take the whole intake manifold out to reach it, find your video lot more helpful, thanks brother!!!
I had the same issue with mine! I think it all depends on which way the connector ends up facing once the sensor is in tightly. I ended up using a long flat blade screwdriver through a "window" opening that I could see to finally get my connector unattached. Once that chore was completed, the rest of it seemed pretty easy! Good luck!
@@mattiba3422absolutely. I couldn't figure out how others were easily popping the tab and squeezing the connector until I realized my connector was 180⁰ from others. If the sensor stops in the right spot, it's easy to pop off, but if it stops in the wrong spot you going to have a task on your hands.
I will be attempting this soon. Already have the socket. Was just waiting for the weather to cool off. Not looking forward to hitting the “point of no return” and pushing through. But can only imagine how much a mechanic would charge due to how difficult it is to reach the sensor.
The filter below the sensor seems to gunk up and cause problems. To get it out I’d recommend using a “curved blackhead tool” (the one that kind of looks like a hook). Sounds weird but will save you a lot of time. Great video btw
YOU CAN DO IT.. 2003 Chevy 5.3 LM7 it did not have the screen. I’m 70 years old and YES, you can replace the oil pressure sending unit WITHOUT taking the intake manifold off. I have the scratched hands to prove it . Just take the engine cover off. Used the following tools….. Special oil pressure sending unit socket $6.00 at NAPA. 3/8” X 6” wobble extension. 3” extension. 3/8” universal adapter. Standard 3/8 drive socket. I found the easiest way to access the sensor was to climb on top of the engine from the front . If you are left handed, good luck…. The hardest part I had was trying to get the new sensor started without cross threading it…
Tried replacing a sensor today and man.. you make it look so easy! The lack of space is brutal. Thought I had the sensor threaded in properly and it popped out as it cross threaded. Super annoying!
I found it easier to use a swivel extension instead of the wobble while still using the 6 inch extension. Took care of the problem of not having room to turn the ratchet! 👍
I did this on our Yukon a couple of days ago. I tied some twine around the new sender so I could retrieve that if I dropped the sender while trying to get that started threading. If I ever have to do again, I'm removing/cutting away some of that plastic guard.
GREAT Video! Replacement on our 2007 Silverado was exactly as described in this video. Part was $50. Borrowed the socket from our local auto parts store. Installation took about 30 minutes. Thanks Dave, you saved me hundreds of dollars.
This is the best video I’ve watched on how to do this. There’s at least 5 I watched that tell you to take off the brake booster line, the Pcv line, and the fuel line. I didn’t have to take off any of this and I was done in a about an hour. I used a 27mm socket with a 1/2 to 3/8s adapter, swivel joint, 6” extension and a 3/8s straight non-swivel socket wrench.The hardest part for me was removing the clip, but i had it off in 5-10 minutes. Great video!
Oh, and the screen was definitely my problem. The bottom half was completely clogged. Use a small pick to simply pull it out, then drop the new one in. The round rim like part goes up in case you drop it pulling the old out and can’t see how it goes
I needed to see this my oil hand jus stopped moving in my 2011 chevy 5.3 liter v8 jus like wat u was wrk on my truck has oil tha hand jus stopped GREAT VIDEO
Just got it done took me about an hour and 15 minutes. It is very tight space but it is possible. Used a ratchet to break it loose, then finished it off with a Milwaukee electric ratchet.
Thank you for this video. Looks like I had a little less room on a 2011 Sierra than you did, but got my fat wrist in there and got it replaced. One tip might help others: Fill the empty space along side the motor with blankets or pillows to keep from crushing anything while laid across the top of the motor. Most of my weight was on the alternator, which is solid. I coulda taken a nap up there!
so your feet were hanging off the passenger side ? Which hand did you use to get back there ? ( assuming you come in from the drivers side.... the right hand ? )
@@breeeep feet were hanging out above drivers side headlight. After filling the drivers side of motor with pillows and blankets I could lay on my stomach and reach back there with my right hand.
First one of these I've seen that you can actually see it pretty well. I think when I do mine I'm going to use my camera also to help me see better, although it's definitely a feel kind of operation. I'm here in January 2024, 3 years after this was made and after he made the update in the pinned comment. While watching it I was wondering why he didn't change the screen/filter element underneath the switch, his update explains that he did go back and do so. Everything I've seen so far indicates you definitely should replace the screen as it could be clogging up at times, and a new one comes with the switch anyway so while you're there, swap it out too for sure.
Great video. Very informative and helpful on how to do this job. My tool list that I found that worked great 27mm or 1 1/16 deep well 1/2 inch drive socket 1/2 inch swivel 1/2 to 3/8 adapter 3/8 drive 6 inch extension 3/8 ratchet Make sure to replace the screen filter. To get the screen filter out just use a normal pencil and stick the eraser side gently down the sensor opening and lightly with a little twist into the opening of the screen and pull it out. Works great When putting the sensor back in you can just use the socket and a 1/2 stubby ratchet to get it pretty close to tight , then use the rest of the adapters and extensions to tighten it the rest of the way
I have the same Silverado and have had to replace that sensor 3 times. The first time took me all day because I did not see any videos to help. Anyway I hope your new sensor lasts longer than mine have
I'm a long-haul trucker and work on my own vehicles when I can & depending on how much trouble it will be. I was considering replacing this sensor myself. Thank you for the video. I now know I would rather pay someone else to do this rather than do it myself on 1 of my off days. 😂
You lucky guy you. I'm here now trying to get this damn screen out. I wish I had a lag bolt around here. I'm about to pull one out of my wall mount for my tv. 😂. U did it like it wasn't a problem at all.
Glad the video was helpful! Also, Arete is great! I learned a ton, kept motivated all year, and built the habits I am continuing now. I spent 19/20 in Arete and although not part of it currently I know I'll be back once I get myself to the next level I am aiming for.
I bet even if you had to buy that socket it’s still cheaper than at the dealer, especially if they have to follow GM protocol and remove a bunch of the engine. Great video!
Disconnect the rubber hose from the top that is blocking the ratchet from going on ,it will make it much easier. Also . If anything comes with a new screen always replace the screen . Screens protect the actual item from anything befor the item goes out .great video also . Found this a day after i was done doing mine 😂
@@jessleft65 so leave the screen out hmmm and the screen helps keep dirt and whatever else out. Do not listen to the dealers they just want you to come back and have to replace more parts but hey who am i I'm just saying . Makes no sense
It’s a technical service bulletin from the manufacturer of the vehicles stating you should leave the screen out. I’d trust it. Sometimes they make mistakes when they build things and sometimes they try to correct those mistakes by letting everyone know what experience has taught them. The screen caused most of the issues that are being experienced because it’s plugging up so now they say leave it out. Manufacturers built engines for generations and they put oil sending units in them without screens and rarely had a problem. And that all started in the days way before fuel injection when engines ran a lot dirtier.
I did this oil pressure sensor job in my 2006 Silverado 2500HD with a 6.0L V8 after I noticed the oil pressure gauge was nearly maxed out at 80 PSI even with the engine not running. This job was extremely difficult. I couldn’t see any of the area behind the engine. I had to use my phone camera to survey the area then do everything by touch and feel. I barely had space to squeeze my hand behind the engine block to reach the sensor. After I disconnected the cable from the sensor, I turned the key without starting engine and the gauge was at zero. So, I knew this was certainly a bad sensor. I had to remove the 13mm bolt next to the sensor in order to get a 27mm 8-point socket on it; this didn’t work at all. I tried a 27mm 6-point socket, which was better but wasn’t fully seated and I feared I might break the bad sensor if I forced it. So, I sprayed some penetrating oil on the sensor threads overnight while I obtained the actual 1 1/16” socket made for the sensor and it worked perfectly. Of course, GM engineers that planned the location for the sensor left me bloody and bruised after working back there and my knees on top of the engine. But, in the end, success. I refuse to let inanimate objects defeat me. And, I think I save hundreds of dollars if I had to pay a mechanic to remove the entire intake for much easier access. Doing this job on the on trucks with smaller engines is probably much easier.
On the connector there is a white lock you need to lift it with a pick are long thin screwdriver till it CLICKs and stays up in place. Then under it you can push in with a screwdriver to release the retaining clip. When released the connector slides off easy. The hose in the way is the brake booster vacuum hose to released it from the intake push in on the red retainer. To get the screen out use a 2" X 5/16" lag screw run it in with your fingers LIGHTLY TILL IT STOPS lift the screen out. Install the new screen push it in with your fingers then install the sensor. If you are brave you can cut some of that plastic out of your way be carful. All in said and done the intake is easy to remove, the intake seals and lower injector seals are a known leaker. I would never put those injectors back with the old seals. If you use the old lower seals injector to intake you are asking for a big air leak. I can not remember if a LS with AFM/DOD has the knock sensors under the intake. Those two knock sensors under the intake on earlier LS are a pattern issue go get them while you have the intake off always replace the knock sensor harness. Lastly make sure you do not get the knock sensor harness caught between the intake seals to head. After a sensor replacement Its not uncommon for the OP gauge to take a bit to show pressure. IF no pressure cut it off walk away from it on the third start it usually wakes up (bleeds the air out) That's my story and I am sticking to it.
Over 200k on my 2011 Sierra now. Guy I got it from at 195k was using Rotella 5w30 synthetic, and it smoked a ton at startup. I first put in an odbII AFM disabler from Amazon for $80. Still smoked. I then switched oil to Mobil1 10w/30 high mileage, and bam, no more smoke. Just wondering now if this is why this sensor went bad, and if it'll go bad again after I just replaced it. Working great for now! Ideas?
Great man need to change mine also but when i bought mine it came with a small little filter and I didn’t see that part in your switch where exactly does that go
Usually, when a new hire starts they just tell them their day off as it fits the store schedule. It's the same schedule every week. I've had Tuesday's off since I started in the business.
I have a 2018 5.3 and my gauge starting going crazy. Gave me reading of 60lbs at idle. When driving went to 70-80. Next ignition cycle. Normal. I’m guessing it might be the problem.
This video is gold!! I need to do this on my 04 Tahoe, sensor went out about a month ago. Can you list the tools you used with sizes? You Might be onto a new new channel; Dave fixes Chevy’s 😎
Thanks Brian, the socket I used was made for the sensor but I think I read somewhere that a 27mm would work. The extension with the "wobble" feature as well as the ratchet with the adjustable neck helps a lot as well.
@@DaveBsellsChevy I finally got it done! Lot harder then I thought, had to use my phone camera to really see. 👌🏼. As far as, tools I had the adjustable ratchet, but ended up going with just a standard one with a wobble extension
The fact that you had no idea what to do going into this made it awesome. Seasoned mechanic here watching for reference. Nice job. Next time pull the stupid screen and toss it.
My oil pressure is 20 at idle over the last few weeks so I think I'm going to be going down this road shortly... Also I've got knock sensor codes in the past especially when it rains. 2007 Silverado 5.3 with 217,000 MI
The oil pump pickup tube has an O-ring that will suck air and make the oil pressure do weird things. The connector on the bottom of the computer, on the left fender well gets water in them causing knock sensor codes, cooling fans to run non stop etc.
The sensor was super easy to replace less than five minutes to do it didn’t need any special tools whatsoever all I used was a 1 1/16 deep half inch drive socket with a half inch drive swivel and a half inch drive ratchet and that’s all you need
*** UPDATE to the video *** Under the sensor is a small screen. I had it but was told by a few people it wouldn't be necessary to replace it so I didn't. A few hours after installing the sensor and uploading this video I took the truck for a ride and the warning came back on. I brought it home, took the sensor back out, fished out the screen and replaced it. I drove the vehicle again and all seems to be well... My suggestion is to also replace the screen.
Dave B sells Chevy how much harder was fishing out that screen?
Pretty easy. I didn't have any kind of pick tool to use so I took a metal hanger, cut it to about 6 inches and bent a hook on the end of it.
I have the same problem y need to change the sensor 😭
@@punisherestrada4400 no
The screen comes with the new sensor
27MM!!! 27MM!!! 27MM!!! 27MM!!! 27MM!!! 27MM!!! Great video, thanks. Just swapped mine out on my 2012 Silverado in less than 10 minutes thanks to this. I used a 3/8 straight ratchet -> 5" extension -> 3/8 to 1/2 adapter -> 1/2 swivel -> 27mm socket.
I literally used the same shit you did😂
Saved me lots of time thanks for posting what you used
Great info
The only thing I didn’t hear in the vid thank you
Going be replacing the sensor for the 2nd time and just glad that I saved this video from the first time replacing it. Gotta love videos like this!
This video was very helpful, along with the comments others made about their experience doing the job. I struggled a little to get the screen out, but it turns out the 1/4" extension fits snugly into the screen, pulled out easy.
Dave I’ve been a subscriber for quite some time now. I saw this video a while ago and thought “I’ll never have to do that”. Well here I am watching this video as I now have to replace this sensor on my own truck. Thank you very much for the video and for everything else that you do!
Way to go Dave! I am always cautious when it comes to working on my cars/trucks, so I end up taking them to the dealership. You had great advice from your mechanic. Now go and enjoy the rest of your day off!
Hey Scott, I always love a good challenge and the advice from Joe gave me more confidence going into the job. Plus I saved my folks a few bucks.
Dude, thank you so much for explaining this. First video to actually make sense of where everything is and how to do it.
Glad my video helped out!
I just wanna thank you, this video showed me so easily how to do it
I find it very satisfying to do automotive repairs myself. Bravo Dave!!
Thanks 👍
Excellent, excellent video, to the point in landscape mode and no LOUD distracting (C)rap imitation music in the background.
Love that you’re trying new stuff. Much respect for the amount of work you’re putting in.
Yea man, my father always said if you can read you can learn to do anything. Now a days it is even easier with CZcams and Google!
Hey not bad! Every ones in a wile, it's good to get your hands dirty.
@@DaveBsellsChevy Question, on that chevy motor, if you crank the truck, and oil pressure is 40psi, then starts to drop slowly, and bottoms out round 20psi while driving, DO you think that's a weak oil pump, or sensor ?
Good to see someone in sales getting dirty and making repairs the right way...especially for dear ole dad...kudos
Right on!
Good job. I have a 2014 Yukon and I’m sure one day I will need to replace mine. Thanks for showing us how 😎👍
I have an 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500. Thanks to this video, and having small hands lol, changing the sensor should be fairly easy. 🤞🏼 look forward to more videos like this…? 😊
I'm fixing to tackle this on the same exact year truck. Thanks for the video.
Well done man. I'm in North Alabama with an oil pressure problem. I am optimistic replacing the sensor solves it. I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Hopefully with the sensor replacement I will be back up and running. With your instruction, I now know what tools I need and the steps to take. 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with the 5.3L V8.
Great! Hope it all works out for you
@@DaveBsellsChevy ,, ok
so what happened ?
Did you have to disconnect the battery cable to do this@@DaveBsellsChevy
What size socket
This is amazing,my Gm dealer just called me and wanted $900 Canadian plus taxes to do the same thing
Was just seeing another video to replace same sensor, needed to take the whole intake manifold out to reach it, find your video lot more helpful, thanks brother!!!
Awesome!! It really wasn't that bad a job once you squeeze your hand back there.
One dealer to another, thanks for the video. It was exactly what I needed to knock the job out!
DUDE! Thank you. You just saved me like 3-4 hours easy, and some soul searching.
Mine truck is a 2012 and the light came on. I did a google search and your video popped up first. So thank you very much for doing this video.
Sweet! Glad it was helpful
Great video 👊💪🏁
I've got the same dumb problem and yes Chevy says replace the screen.
Thanks!!
You made it look easy I’ve been at it for 45 minutes I CANNOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTOR YET😡 YOU did a GREAT job thanks for putting that video together❤️🇺🇸
lol, the magic of video. Glad my video was helpful.
I had the same issue with mine! I think it all depends on which way the connector ends up facing once the sensor is in tightly.
I ended up using a long flat blade screwdriver through a "window" opening that I could see to finally get my connector unattached. Once that chore was completed, the rest of it seemed pretty easy! Good luck!
@@mattiba3422absolutely. I couldn't figure out how others were easily popping the tab and squeezing the connector until I realized my connector was 180⁰ from others. If the sensor stops in the right spot, it's easy to pop off, but if it stops in the wrong spot you going to have a task on your hands.
I will be attempting this soon. Already have the socket. Was just waiting for the weather to cool off. Not looking forward to hitting the “point of no return” and pushing through. But can only imagine how much a mechanic would charge due to how difficult it is to reach the sensor.
Thanks for the video. Fixin a do this job right now. Was wondering if the screen was necessary but read ur update so I’m gonna do it.
Great video…I was thinking about taking it in but now I might do it. Thanks for sharing!
The filter below the sensor seems to gunk up and cause problems. To get it out I’d recommend using a “curved blackhead tool” (the one that kind of looks like a hook). Sounds weird but will save you a lot of time. Great video btw
YOU CAN DO IT.. 2003 Chevy 5.3 LM7 it did not have the screen.
I’m 70 years old and YES, you can replace the oil pressure sending unit WITHOUT taking
the intake manifold off. I have the scratched hands to prove it .
Just take the engine cover off.
Used the following tools…..
Special oil pressure sending unit socket $6.00 at NAPA.
3/8” X 6” wobble extension.
3” extension.
3/8” universal adapter.
Standard 3/8 drive socket.
I found the easiest way to access the sensor was to climb on top of
the engine from the front . If you are left handed, good luck….
The hardest part I had was trying to get the new sensor started without cross threading it…
Tried replacing a sensor today and man.. you make it look so easy! The lack of space is brutal. Thought I had the sensor threaded in properly and it popped out as it cross threaded. Super annoying!
I found it easier to use a swivel extension instead of the wobble while still using the 6 inch extension. Took care of the problem of not having room to turn the ratchet! 👍
But that being said, I had the wrong sensor so the bad one is back in for now 😅
Nicely done, thanks!
I did this on our Yukon a couple of days ago. I tied some twine around the new sender so I could retrieve that if I dropped the sender while trying to get that started threading. If I ever have to do again, I'm removing/cutting away some of that plastic guard.
GREAT Video! Replacement on our 2007 Silverado was exactly as described in this video. Part was $50. Borrowed the socket from our local auto parts store. Installation took about 30 minutes. Thanks Dave, you saved me hundreds of dollars.
Glad it helped!
where did you get the sensor from and did it come with the screen?
@@robcbr91 O’Riley’s. Yes, it came with a screen.
What’s the name of the socket?
What's the name of the socket
This is the best video I’ve watched on how to do this. There’s at least 5 I watched that tell you to take off the brake booster line, the Pcv line, and the fuel line. I didn’t have to take off any of this and I was done in a about an hour.
I used a 27mm socket with a 1/2 to 3/8s adapter, swivel joint, 6” extension and a 3/8s straight non-swivel socket wrench.The hardest part for me was removing the clip, but i had it off in 5-10 minutes. Great video!
Oh, and the screen was definitely my problem. The bottom half was completely clogged. Use a small pick to simply pull it out, then drop the new one in. The round rim like part goes up in case you drop it pulling the old out and can’t see how it goes
Glad it helped out!
How did you take the clip off
I needed to see this my oil hand jus stopped moving in my 2011 chevy 5.3 liter v8 jus like wat u was wrk on my truck has oil tha hand jus stopped GREAT VIDEO
Thank you very much for showing me!!
Excellent job!! Very informative, thank you!!
👍
Just got it done took me about an hour and 15 minutes. It is very tight space but it is possible. Used a ratchet to break it loose, then finished it off with a Milwaukee electric ratchet.
Great video man. I am going to be doing this this weekend. I appreciate the walk-through.
Glad my video helped out... It's a pretty easy job. the hardest part is getting in there but once you feel around a bit it isn't too bad
I’m replacing mine this very minute and I don’t understand how to get the connection plug out
Thank you for this video. Looks like I had a little less room on a 2011 Sierra than you did, but got my fat wrist in there and got it replaced. One tip might help others: Fill the empty space along side the motor with blankets or pillows to keep from crushing anything while laid across the top of the motor. Most of my weight was on the alternator, which is solid. I coulda taken a nap up there!
so your feet were hanging off the passenger side ? Which hand did you use to get back there ? ( assuming you come in from the drivers side.... the right hand ? )
@@breeeep feet were hanging out above drivers side headlight. After filling the drivers side of motor with pillows and blankets I could lay on my stomach and reach back there with my right hand.
You learn about laying across the engine when you have to change the spark plug on the #8 cylinder.😆
Thank you for your help. I'm about to tackle this right now. Your video was very helpful.
How did it go??
First one of these I've seen that you can actually see it pretty well. I think when I do mine I'm going to use my camera also to help me see better, although it's definitely a feel kind of operation. I'm here in January 2024, 3 years after this was made and after he made the update in the pinned comment. While watching it I was wondering why he didn't change the screen/filter element underneath the switch, his update explains that he did go back and do so. Everything I've seen so far indicates you definitely should replace the screen as it could be clogging up at times, and a new one comes with the switch anyway so while you're there, swap it out too for sure.
EXCELLENT, super helpful.
Great video. Very informative and helpful on how to do this job.
My tool list that I found that worked great
27mm or 1 1/16 deep well 1/2 inch drive socket
1/2 inch swivel
1/2 to 3/8 adapter
3/8 drive 6 inch extension
3/8 ratchet
Make sure to replace the screen filter.
To get the screen filter out just use a normal pencil and stick the eraser side gently down the sensor opening and lightly with a little twist into the opening of the screen and pull it out. Works great
When putting the sensor back in you can just use the socket and a 1/2 stubby ratchet to get it pretty close to tight , then use the rest of the adapters and extensions to tighten it the rest of the way
Thanks for adding the list of tools 👍
So, I can use a regular deep well 1 1/16 socket instead of buying the Lisle 13250 socket?
@@robinnagel3684 yes you can
@@steveschwenke9636, thank you sooooo much. So many different opinions out there. Wish me luck as I attempt to do this by myself.
Used your exact tool list. Thank you!
Thanks man your videos have been very helpful
Dave, I bet your glad you don't have to worry about doing that stuff with your Chevy Bolt!
So true.. Very little if any maintenance on that, as of now anyway.
I have the same Silverado and have had to replace that sensor 3 times. The first time took me all day because I did not see any videos to help. Anyway I hope your new sensor lasts longer than mine have
Great video Dave! 👍
Thanks Marshall
Awesome video I hope you can also do more videos like this.
I definitely will as jobs/issues with vehicles arise.
I'm a long-haul trucker and work on my own vehicles when I can & depending on how much trouble it will be. I was considering replacing this sensor myself. Thank you for the video. I now know I would rather pay someone else to do this rather than do it myself on 1 of my off days. 😂
Bro your a life saver!!
Glad I could help
Awesome brotha! You should do more like this! You’re an excellent instructor! You little B lol
Mattie Oz!! Hope all is well buddy
You lucky guy you. I'm here now trying to get this damn screen out. I wish I had a lag bolt around here. I'm about to pull one out of my wall mount for my tv. 😂. U did it like it wasn't a problem at all.
Awesome job
Solid video! Thanks!!
Thanks a million saved a lot of money great video
Glad it helped!
Love it. Thank you!!!
Nice. I believe there is a piece in the sensor that breaks off and usually has to be fished out.
You should do more videos like this man
I'd love to... I need to get myself a garage and project car!
Exelent good teaching
Loved this.
Cool!
Same with my Chevy 98 the oil sensor is difficult to get to, had to buy special socket but got it
Great video Thankyou for your help
Great video thankyou for your help.
Great job man.
Thanks!
Best flashlights!
Thank you good job
Super good video
Hi Dave ,Thanks soooooo much great video, your the BEST my Brother from another Mother
You are very welcome
Thank for the inspiration
👍
Nice work 👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻
thanks for video hello from Puerto Rico 👍
Awesome! Glad it helped out
Great video Dave .
👍👍👍👍🤘🤘🤘🤙🤙
Thanks 👍
Hell yeah, nice hat! Arte is the business! Can't wait to join! Also... thank you for this video! I needed that!
Glad the video was helpful! Also, Arete is great! I learned a ton, kept motivated all year, and built the habits I am continuing now. I spent 19/20 in Arete and although not part of it currently I know I'll be back once I get myself to the next level I am aiming for.
Super. And helpful.
I bet even if you had to buy that socket it’s still cheaper than at the dealer, especially if they have to follow GM protocol and remove a bunch of the engine. Great video!
Absolutely and you don't need the special socket.. I think it is a 27 mm deep socket or something close to that
@@DaveBsellsChevy yes, Chevy wanted $700 installed...
Good job
Disconnect the rubber hose from the top that is blocking the ratchet from going on ,it will make it much easier. Also . If anything comes with a new screen always replace the screen . Screens protect the actual item from anything befor the item goes out .great video also . Found this a day after i was done doing mine 😂
Yes there is a screen but gm came out with a tsb saying leave the screen out. So just remove the original and screw the sensor in:)
@@jessleft65 so leave the screen out hmmm and the screen helps keep dirt and whatever else out. Do not listen to the dealers they just want you to come back and have to replace more parts but hey who am i I'm just saying . Makes no sense
It’s a technical service bulletin from the manufacturer of the vehicles stating you should leave the screen out. I’d trust it. Sometimes they make mistakes when they build things and sometimes they try to correct those mistakes by letting everyone know what experience has taught them. The screen caused most of the issues that are being experienced because it’s plugging up so now they say leave it out.
Manufacturers built engines for generations and they put oil sending units in them without screens and rarely had a problem. And that all started in the days way before fuel injection when engines ran a lot dirtier.
@@jessleft65 the government never lies also they are just trying to correct things . They been running the country for years 😂.take it easy buddy.
I did this oil pressure sensor job in my 2006 Silverado 2500HD with a 6.0L V8 after I noticed the oil pressure gauge was nearly maxed out at 80 PSI even with the engine not running. This job was extremely difficult. I couldn’t see any of the area behind the engine. I had to use my phone camera to survey the area then do everything by touch and feel. I barely had space to squeeze my hand behind the engine block to reach the sensor. After I disconnected the cable from the sensor, I turned the key without starting engine and the gauge was at zero. So, I knew this was certainly a bad sensor. I had to remove the 13mm bolt next to the sensor in order to get a 27mm 8-point socket on it; this didn’t work at all. I tried a 27mm 6-point socket, which was better but wasn’t fully seated and I feared I might break the bad sensor if I forced it. So, I sprayed some penetrating oil on the sensor threads overnight while I obtained the actual 1 1/16” socket made for the sensor and it worked perfectly. Of course, GM engineers that planned the location for the sensor left me bloody and bruised after working back there and my knees on top of the engine. But, in the end, success. I refuse to let inanimate objects defeat me. And, I think I save hundreds of dollars if I had to pay a mechanic to remove the entire intake for much easier access. Doing this job on the on trucks with smaller engines is probably much easier.
Wow this was extremely useful and informative because my oil pressure sensor went out too 😅
I have a 6.2 Yukon so hopefully it’s the same technique.
Thanks for watching!
What about this screen that came with the sensor? Ok just read your update! Thanks!!! Changing my it on my fathers truck.
yours is in a much better position than mine (2004 Avalanche). Mine is at least a foot down below the level of the intake manifold
Thank you
On the connector there is a white lock you need to lift it with a pick are long thin screwdriver till it CLICKs and stays up in place. Then under it you can push in with a screwdriver to release the retaining clip. When released the connector slides off easy. The hose in the way is the brake booster vacuum hose to released it from the intake push in on the red retainer. To get the screen out use a 2" X 5/16" lag screw run it in with your fingers LIGHTLY TILL IT STOPS lift the screen out. Install the new screen push it in with your fingers then install the sensor. If you are brave you can cut some of that plastic out of your way be carful. All in said and done the intake is easy to remove, the intake seals and lower injector seals are a known leaker. I would never put those injectors back with the old seals. If you use the old lower seals injector to intake you are asking for a big air leak. I can not remember if a LS with AFM/DOD has the knock sensors under the intake. Those two knock sensors under the intake on earlier LS are a pattern issue go get them while you have the intake off always replace the knock sensor harness. Lastly make sure you do not get the knock sensor harness caught between the intake seals to head. After a sensor replacement Its not uncommon for the OP gauge to take a bit to show pressure. IF no pressure cut it off walk away from it on the third start it usually wakes up (bleeds the air out) That's my story and I am sticking to it.
That was 100% helpfull
Awesome! Glad it helped
Can you send me the link where you bought your new sensor and screen please. I’ve heard a lot of the off brand ones don’t work very well.
Ducking joe is the man!!!!!!!!
Did you push or pull the blue tab to get connector off? About to tackle this plus replace screen
Over 200k on my 2011 Sierra now. Guy I got it from at 195k was using Rotella 5w30 synthetic, and it smoked a ton at startup. I first put in an odbII AFM disabler from Amazon for $80. Still smoked. I then switched oil to Mobil1 10w/30 high mileage, and bam, no more smoke. Just wondering now if this is why this sensor went bad, and if it'll go bad again after I just replaced it. Working great for now! Ideas?
So as I was working on this the old oil pressure sensor decided to shear off. Any advice on this nightmare
Great man need to change mine also but when i bought mine it came with a small little filter and I didn’t see that part in your switch where exactly does that go
Yes, put the new screen in... i didnt at first but did off camera
Good stuff!
A little something different for the channel
Dave B sells Chevy I like it!! Variety is the spice of life!
Nice job! Unrelated question to the video... how do the salesmen at your store determine who gets off certain days of the week?
Usually, when a new hire starts they just tell them their day off as it fits the store schedule. It's the same schedule every week. I've had Tuesday's off since I started in the business.
That Arete hat though 👌👌👌👌
RIGHT ON!!! Arete class of 19/20
I have a 2018 5.3 and my gauge starting going crazy. Gave me reading of 60lbs at idle. When driving went to 70-80. Next ignition cycle. Normal. I’m guessing it might be the problem.
Is Joe a real person? 😆 thanks for the tip GOD bless!👍
This video is gold!! I need to do this on my 04 Tahoe, sensor went out about a month ago. Can you list the tools you used with sizes? You Might be onto a new new channel; Dave fixes Chevy’s 😎
Thanks Brian, the socket I used was made for the sensor but I think I read somewhere that a 27mm would work. The extension with the "wobble" feature as well as the ratchet with the adjustable neck helps a lot as well.
Dave B sells Chevy thanks! I’ll have the tow on stand by when ever I try this lol
@@DaveBsellsChevy I finally got it done! Lot harder then I thought, had to use my phone camera to really see. 👌🏼. As far as, tools I had the adjustable ratchet, but ended up going with just a standard one with a wobble extension
The fact that you had no idea what to do going into this made it awesome. Seasoned mechanic here watching for reference. Nice job. Next time pull the stupid screen and toss it.
My oil pressure is 20 at idle over the last few weeks so I think I'm going to be going down this road shortly... Also I've got knock sensor codes in the past especially when it rains.
2007 Silverado 5.3 with 217,000 MI
The oil pump pickup tube has an O-ring that will suck air and make the oil pressure do weird things.
The connector on the bottom of the computer, on the left fender well gets water in them causing knock sensor codes, cooling fans to run non stop etc.
The sensor was super easy to replace less than five minutes to do it didn’t need any special tools whatsoever all I used was a 1 1/16 deep half inch drive socket with a half inch drive swivel and a half inch drive ratchet and that’s all you need