DIY CNC Router under $600 (Upgrades)
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- čas přidán 20. 07. 2024
- Getting more accuracy and repeatability out of DIY Lowrider CNC.
Aluminum XZ part: www.thingiverse.com/thing:466...
Makita plate parts: www.thingiverse.com/thing:478...
Music: www.bensound.com
SKR 1.3 and TMC2209 drivers: amzn.to/3s2ooT1
TF35 touch screen: amzn.to/3djrMVD
Makita router: amzn.to/3nYyLVN
00:00 Intro
00:20 32-bit controller install
03:28 Transparent acrylic router plate
06:40 DIY Air assist
09:42 Spoilboard and T-tracks
11:30 Milling aluminum parts
14:03 Anodizing aluminum
14:51 Re-assembling gantry
18:03 Why going all this trouble? - Jak na to + styl
Dude.. You levelled up!!
I just thought about adding magnets to hold my dust shoe... came on and saw you doing that and so much more!!
Thanks, happy milling for you too!
Dude, this is great. Your channel deserves to grow.
Thanks, appreciate it.
Also working on low rider and appreciate you posting this
Great job. I have been sitting still for this follow-up video.
:)
Never wondered why, just figured because y its awesome and you know how. Starting with plastics so you can build with aluminum is brilliant.
Or you could just start with aluminum
This is amazing! Great job!
Thank you, Kārlis
Looks really good. Watching now. I just have to mention, don't power those boards while they are on the antistatic bags. Those are conductive and can short the board.
Thanks Jeff. It never dawned on me to check if those bags are conductive, now I know.
Man you should definitely make these aluminum xz parts available for sale. I need 4
do you have the file for the air blast nozzle and the laser mount that you could share. Also could you gives more information on your laser setup? thanks for a great video. can't wait to start building mine
so the controller will do milling too? , I like to duplicate this project, loving it
I'm not a fan of the unsupported hollow tube for rails over all any length but a very cool project. Well done.
What about solid steel rods as a substitute?
Thank you for posting! I've implemented many of your upgrades but complicated my life by using an SKR 2.0 Rev B. I think I've overcome al the complications. One question I have is regarding your X axis. Did you run the two motors in series? Did you change the amperage settings in the firmware to allow for running two motors?
They ran in series and I didn't adjust any amperage, don't think it's needed with UART on SKR with TMC2209 steppers
@@cantsitstill9056 Thank you!!
Soooo, we want more upgrades...
And a anodizing setup/tutorial.
And im building a lowrider as well with basically the same setup, just wondering what bit you used for the aluminum.
And i looked up the square tubing, 5mm thick is pretty hard to find
Aluminum endmills I use are 1/8" single flute carbides, like those: shop.v1engineering.com/collections/sharp-stuff/products/1-8-single-flute
Nice work there. Thanks for sharing.
Any idea what improvement you are getting in accuracy over the distance of your work bed?
I’m guessing the deflection of the bit is almost gone. !
Thanks again.
Thank you. It's beings a while since I've done big cuts, I even shortened lens of belts over the longest axis. Guess I'll find out as I go.
i realize it's kind of randomly asking but do anybody know of a good place to watch newly released tv shows online ?
@Lukas Marlon flixportal :D
@Jabari Emilio Thanks, I went there and it seems to work =) I really appreciate it!!
@Lukas Marlon glad I could help =)
Great work! What kind of dye you're using for anodzing?
I got myself few Caswell dyes, like those: amzn.to/2Q1CqGV
Hello, Thank you for your information, wanted to ask, what thickness should be the steel shafts for a 2 by 1.5 meters diy simple cnc frame, are 20mm shafts strong enough for such x and y length and would nema 23 motors be good enough to move the axis or should be bigger?
Metric version of this device is build for 25mm tubes: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3064287 and Nema 17 for steppers
WOW!!! That’s all I have to say. By any chance do u have the files for the new aluminum brackets made on his vid. And thank you
Here's a link: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4662197
What keeps the low rider tracking parallel all the way up and down the board that it's sat on? It seems like any tension difference in the belts or resistance differences somewhere would cause it to skew
Somehow it doesn't skew, at least to the point where I can see the difference.
Did you machine those trusses in there (on the thingiverse model) for any other reason than it looks dope? I dont have a cnc router but I do have access to a mill. Thinking about fabricating a set before I build mine
Well, sure it looks dope :) but no, the idea was to make everything stiffer.
@@cantsitstill9056 ain't nothin stiffer than a solid piece lol. I'll prob go for it
What a great job! I assume you use "Marlin" and not "GRBL" right? What programs do you use for cuts?
Yes, Marlin 2. And Estlcam for a CAM software. Occasionally Fusion360 CAM.
@@cantsitstill9056 Thanks! I'm finishing mine and I see some very good updates from you.
like it good job I would like to build one any tips
Just do it :)
Hello...great machine!...I have CNC with arduino uno and cnc shield v3 and drv8825 drivers...can i replace those drivers with tmc2209 for quiter joging? and will i have sensorless homing with that or I need SKR 1.3 board?
I'm not sure if tmc2209 would work with older shields, I doubt it. The different between a full set of TMC2209 drivers with and without SKR1.3 board is only $25 (in US), why not get the whole set?
@@cantsitstill9056 can I install grbl on skr board? :) I get used to grbl, and I use Openbuilds control software, which I think is the best for controlling cnc, so I would like to stay on grbl. :)
@@unique93obr Looks like this is possible after all, but comes with some tinkering, here's a guide on installing TNC2130s on RAMPS board.
Great! I'm interested in making the same change you did. Could you share the plastic pieces and the dxf of the new plate? I would like to have a second Y stepper and use a bigger dust port.
Is the second motor connected in parallel with the first motor? I have ramps 1.4 with dual endstop so I am using E0 and E1 as 2nd X and Z engine respectively. If I want to put a second motor Y I would not know how to connect it. Maybe it is only possible with the SKR 1.3
THANKS!!!
Here's a link to STLs and DXF. Second Y motor is connected to the same driver as the first one. With SKR I got 5 drivers, 2x for each Z, 2x for each X - those are for automatic squaring, Y motors connected to the same driver.
@@cantsitstill9056 Thanks, the makita plate parts link is broken. If you can upload again in some time great. Thanks for share!!! I will try your design.
@@juanandrescarri27 Well if I would have clicked on Publish and not just Save :) Give it a shot now.
@@cantsitstill9056 Thanks for this. I already change my configuration like yours but Im using Ramps 1.4 and its running ;). Y motor conected to the same driver in parallel conection.
Being connected in parallel, you had to double the driver voltage, right? Thanks!
@@juanandrescarri27 mine are connected in series as advised by Ryan from V1. I think you right about voltage for parallel connection, but please double check it on V1 forum.
Great Job! However everywhere I look for a SKR 1.3 they are discontinued or unavailable. What would you recommend in its place? I would like to follow what you did here however I want the coding to be correct and I worry the BigTreeTech V1.4 will mess something up.
I think SKR Pro 1.2 officially supported, Check V1 forum, I'm sure there are folks out there who tried some latest hardware: forum.v1engineering.com/
do you have the file for the laser mount?
@@shenanfaas1802 you can find it here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4782046
@@shenanfaas1802 also if you adamant about using SKR 1.3 I actually have one unused I wanted to put on eBay for awhile now.
Hey there is there anywhere where there is a stl case for for the BIGTREETECH SKR Pro v1.2 32-bit high-Frequency 3D & also the screen?
I used this for SKR www.thingiverse.com/thing:4525126 not sure if it'll work for Pro 1.2. I don;t remember now which model I used for TFT screen.
Top demais mais
I see wheels on top and bottom, but what keeps it on track side-to-side?
Well, you can say nothing, Z axis tubes are running almost touching the side of the table, but it tracks well without them.
Bonjour . Beau travail. Je suis votre chaine .Pouvez vous m'expliquer comment connecter le laser pmw sur SKR v1.3.
Seems like this would cost well over 600! Lots and lots of small parts, about 600.
Can I make this machine 36x70? If so what size am I able to cut to. I make items 34x60 would this work for me?
Making it long is easy, it rides along the longer side of your table. Width is trickier, 34 inch work area is doable, however table should be much wider than that, something like 42. Use this calculator to run your numbers: docs.v1engineering.com/lowrider/calculator/
How can I set up sensor less homing? SKR pro 1.2
Check this video czcams.com/video/0PEGNj5m90o/video.html It goes over the concepts, which are the same for all SKRs as far as I understand.
Does anyone have the firmware file for this. The Vi engineering stuff is too old to compile.
Check here: github.com/V1EngineeringInc/MarlinBuilder/releases
What firmware are you using with the skr?
I use one from here: github.com/V1EngineeringInc/MarlinBuilder/releases
Good afternoon. Don't tell me where to download the program for the control board. Thank you
github.com/V1EngineeringInc/MarlinBuilder/releases
Thank you so much. I'll try it tomorrow
what if you make those aluminium parts from hard wood?
I don't know, aluminum tubing makes sense to me, it's not hard to source and possible to mill on this same machine.
@@cantsitstill9056 yes but if i don't have a cnc or 3d printer to mill these parts, on my first assembly maybe i could make those parts from hard wood. Like beech wood or maple, do you think that's steady enough?
@@veloran I don't know. Some parts will be pretty hard to mill, they meant to be printed.
Всё шикарно!
Guess I missed something. What do the magnets do if you are still bolting on the plate?
they hold dust shroud
magnetic dust shroud (looked like a leather skirt)
hi, where to download such a firmware?
Руслан - github.com/V1EngineeringInc/MarlinBuilder/releases
@@cantsitstill9056 спасибо
@@cantsitstill9056 thank you
@@cantsitstill9056 tell me how to make sure that each engine has its own driver? could you drop your files? thank
@@user-vm3ow7vx6l SKR 1.3 board has 5 drivers, 2x for Z (1 for each Z motor), 2x for Y (1 for each Y motor) - this is needed to mate auto-squaring working. Now 2x X motors are connected to the same drivers in series, as described here: docs.v1engineering.com/electronics/steppers/
you still running this setup ?
Use it sporadically, mostly to flatten large chunks of wood. Build a larger table for this machine to ride for that purpose.
That's super cool, I want to build one the same, everyone at the Forums is pushing the LR3 but this design seems a bit more versatile.@@cantsitstill9056
Wish you sell me for 600$ ?