It's funny, I've been fixing my friends knives lately so using my whetstone much more than usual. I too found rykys advice and found the rust eraser to be very effective for cleaning the loadup. It left as you say a diminished smoothness and feel to my stone so I just tried the diamond plate on it and quickly my stone was back to normal. It's interesting to see someone else getting the same results - I wonder why Ryky didn't mention that in his videos.
Hi Thomas! Good to hear from you! I'm using rust remover for cleaning the sides only. So all my stones look like new. For the surface I use, I always use Atoma #140 and #400 grid. The key to keep diamond plate or flattening stone sharp is to fix from higher grid to lower grid. So they both finish a "re-new" process.
Thank you, Frederic! Let's say the process to clean and flatern a stone is from 0% to 100%. Rust remover does 95% job. Then flatterning stone or diamond plate does the last 5%. Or you just use flatterning stone or diamond plate for this job only. But it also takes time. Rust remover clean the surface very quickly.
I always wondered about those sabi-toru. I barely use mine for my stones, water rinse is usually good enough since I flatten my stones regularly. Useful information. Thanx again for the video.
Rust removers seem to leave rubbery material in prolonged use. With some stones it is more of an issue than with others. Lapping solves the problem for my as well.
Great content! I agree with your finding because over time I realized sabitoru lost its grit and became smooth which proves it was contaminating the stone. Now I use the naniwa dressing stone they come with. It would be interesting to learn about what do you think about raising slurry with naguras. It is very common in straight razor sharpening (I don't have one, I'm into kitchen knife sharpening, but I experiment with and without slurry.)
Thank you, Engin! Slurry is actually good. The stone becomes more abrasive. It cuts better indeed. Naniwa dressing stone...hm... I think it's the same as Naniwa M60 #1000 grid. I'd prefer to use diamond plate for more slurry.
@@tailibaba Right, the dressing stone is normally for cleaning but my atoma is not with me right now so temporarily using the dressing stone for raising slurry too, its particles doesn't seem really abrasive on steel, I guess it is made of mostly bonding material, and somehow the slurry is purer than I expect. Some day I will try kuro/tsuchime nagura as it is easy to find. Also I noticed slurry reduces load up on stone. And moving the slurry around with alternating strops is kinda fun :) have a great day
i used the rust eraser "fine" the white one for quite some time i noticed that my stone is different from when i use the small dressing stone given with my cerax 1000. but for me, what i guess is the rust eraser make the stone smoother, less agressive, and yes sometimes almost glazed it i ended up using it to clean my stones under water at the end of sharpening what i think is Ryky uses his stones in such a way as to preserve them as much as possible. the rust eracer dont make the stone stop cutting, it unclog it, but it make it less effective then if lapped
@@tailibaba diamond stones is eating the stone i try not to use the diamond plate a lot. only every 5 sharpening mote or less, i try to finde a good nagura or cleaning stone that don't eat the stone when applied
Sounds like you’re being polite. What I’m hearing is that, you used a rust remover to remove the material load up on the stone, only for the stone to end up loading up with material from the rust remover anyway. In the end you still end up using a flattening plate. Seems like just adding extra steps to end up using a flattening plate, which would achieve the same result whether or not you started with a rust eraser. Despite your stated conclusion, everything you’ve described would actually point to Ryky being wrong, no?
Thank you! I followed Ryky and tried rust remover. And I felt everything I explained in the video. In my opinion, it is not a good idea to use rust remover. Yes, rust remover can clean the load up, but it gives the stone another load up. You can feel it when sharpening. The best way would be diamond plate, no load up at all, clean and flat. And rust remover is too small to flat a stone. It will just follow the unflat area and make it more unflat.
Wouldn't be the first time. I've watched most of his videos and like the guy a lot, but must say - he would be better off deleting 2/3 of them and updating other 1/3. Most of them, especially the older ones, are now just misleading. Like the famous King S1 being a soaker.
Quick question if a whetstone is one grit, does it matter which side i sharpen on? Cause some stones have lettering and design on one side and nothing on other side. Is there a difference or both the same.
Mostly, double sided stone has two different grid. Normally we need to start from lower grid side. But Suehiro makes some stone, which has two sides but same grid.
They both do. Remember the process. New Atoma flatten low grid first, it will not be that sharp. This is the preparation before use. When you use it, always flatten fron higher grid to lower grid. Your Atoma will never get blocked and never be slipery.
There are too many. Depending on the previous stone you use. You can choose either 800 or 1000 grid. If you like splash and go, Naniwa 1k, Suehiro Debado LD 1k and Debado Sne 1k are good. If you like soaking stone, Suehiro New Cerax 1k, Imanishi Bester 1k or 1200 are nice.
It's funny, I've been fixing my friends knives lately so using my whetstone much more than usual.
I too found rykys advice and found the rust eraser to be very effective for cleaning the loadup. It left as you say a diminished smoothness and feel to my stone so I just tried the diamond plate on it and quickly my stone was back to normal. It's interesting to see someone else getting the same results - I wonder why Ryky didn't mention that in his videos.
Hi Thomas! Good to hear from you! I'm using rust remover for cleaning the sides only. So all my stones look like new. For the surface I use, I always use Atoma #140 and #400 grid. The key to keep diamond plate or flattening stone sharp is to fix from higher grid to lower grid. So they both finish a "re-new" process.
Totally agree with you! I don’t liked my stone after I tried for the first time this rust remover.
Thank you, Frederic! Let's say the process to clean and flatern a stone is from 0% to 100%. Rust remover does 95% job. Then flatterning stone or diamond plate does the last 5%. Or you just use flatterning stone or diamond plate for this job only. But it also takes time. Rust remover clean the surface very quickly.
I tend to use a cleaning nagura that is higher in grit than my stone.
Just be careful that nagura is very small. It's difficult to flatten your stones.
@@tailibaba I said clean and not flatten. :) I flatten my stones on a piece of tile with SIC powder. :)
I always wondered about those sabi-toru. I barely use mine for my stones, water rinse is usually good enough since I flatten my stones regularly. Useful information. Thanx again for the video.
Thank you Dan!
Rust removers seem to leave rubbery material in prolonged use. With some stones it is more of an issue than with others. Lapping solves the problem for my as well.
Yes!
I wonder, has Rycky ever reacted to this video in any way? I think you really demonstrated your point very well.
Thank you! Doesn't matter. I hope to send correct info to users.
Great content! I agree with your finding because over time I realized sabitoru lost its grit and became smooth which proves it was contaminating the stone. Now I use the naniwa dressing stone they come with. It would be interesting to learn about what do you think about raising slurry with naguras. It is very common in straight razor sharpening (I don't have one, I'm into kitchen knife sharpening, but I experiment with and without slurry.)
Thank you, Engin! Slurry is actually good. The stone becomes more abrasive. It cuts better indeed. Naniwa dressing stone...hm... I think it's the same as Naniwa M60 #1000 grid. I'd prefer to use diamond plate for more slurry.
@@tailibaba Right, the dressing stone is normally for cleaning but my atoma is not with me right now so temporarily using the dressing stone for raising slurry too, its particles doesn't seem really abrasive on steel, I guess it is made of mostly bonding material, and somehow the slurry is purer than I expect. Some day I will try kuro/tsuchime nagura as it is easy to find. Also I noticed slurry reduces load up on stone. And moving the slurry around with alternating strops is kinda fun :) have a great day
YES! All correct!
i used the rust eraser "fine" the white one for quite some time
i noticed that my stone is different from when i use the small dressing stone given with my cerax 1000.
but for me, what i guess is the rust eraser make the stone smoother, less agressive, and yes sometimes almost glazed it
i ended up using it to clean my stones under water at the end of sharpening
what i think is Ryky uses his stones in such a way as to preserve them as much as possible.
the rust eracer dont make the stone stop cutting, it unclog it, but it make it less effective then if lapped
According to my experience, at least it is not the right stuff for cleaning stone. Diamond plate is the best for both cleaning and flattening.
@@tailibaba
diamond stones is eating the stone
i try not to use the diamond plate a lot. only every 5 sharpening mote or less,
i try to finde a good nagura or cleaning stone that don't eat the stone when applied
@@dris9274 I use it all the time. Don't worry. You get much more benifit out of it.
Why would you wipe slurry away after Atoma plate lapping? I’d leave it alone, and resume sharpening. Am I wrong?
You can do both. Without slurry gets better sharpness.
I use the rust eraser under running water and haven’t noticed that issue.
Maybe to compare with flattening stone, you would probably notice something?
But if we must re-lap the stone again with a diamond stone, why use the rust remover at all?
Yes. I always use either flattern stone or diamond plate. But in case people followed that and used rust remover, then this is the solution.
Yes, that is what I was thinking
Cool! I do the same thing but I use the little stone the sharpening stone comes with, and I usually drink a beer first😜
Little stone can also do the work only if you cleaned your stone by the rust remover. I also drink beer or others. lol
I use the rust eraser under running water and haven’t had that issue
Maybe you can compare:
1/ the feeling after rust remover
2/ the feeling after regular flatten stone or diamond plate.
Sounds like you’re being polite. What I’m hearing is that, you used a rust remover to remove the material load up on the stone, only for the stone to end up loading up with material from the rust remover anyway. In the end you still end up using a flattening plate.
Seems like just adding extra steps to end up using a flattening plate, which would achieve the same result whether or not you started with a rust eraser.
Despite your stated conclusion, everything you’ve described would actually point to Ryky being wrong, no?
Thank you! I followed Ryky and tried rust remover. And I felt everything I explained in the video. In my opinion, it is not a good idea to use rust remover. Yes, rust remover can clean the load up, but it gives the stone another load up. You can feel it when sharpening. The best way would be diamond plate, no load up at all, clean and flat. And rust remover is too small to flat a stone. It will just follow the unflat area and make it more unflat.
Wouldn't be the first time. I've watched most of his videos and like the guy a lot, but must say - he would be better off deleting 2/3 of them and updating other 1/3. Most of them, especially the older ones, are now just misleading. Like the famous King S1 being a soaker.
lol
I tend to get the gritty feel after using a diamond plate to flatten.
Yes. This is good.
magic eraser/sponge works great for cleaning particles off the stone
Cleaning function is ok. But better use flatten stone or diamond blade after that.
What stone are you using? Great advice thanks from the Netherlands
Hello! Hoe gaat het! Thank you! In this video, it was Naniwa Professional 5k.
Quick question if a whetstone is one grit, does it matter which side i sharpen on? Cause some stones have lettering and design on one side and nothing on other side. Is there a difference or both the same.
Mostly, double sided stone has two different grid. Normally we need to start from lower grid side. But Suehiro makes some stone, which has two sides but same grid.
What is the grit on the diamond stone you used to clean the stone afterwards? Great video!
Thanks! Actually both Atoma #400 grid and Atoma #140 grid diamond plates work very well.
@@tailibaba many thanks
Would a atoma 140 or 400 be better to flatten for my suehiro 1000 and 5000.
They both do. Remember the process. New Atoma flatten low grid first, it will not be that sharp. This is the preparation before use. When you use it, always flatten fron higher grid to lower grid. Your Atoma will never get blocked and never be slipery.
Which medium 1000 grit stone do you recommend?
There are too many. Depending on the previous stone you use. You can choose either 800 or 1000 grid. If you like splash and go, Naniwa 1k, Suehiro Debado LD 1k and Debado Sne 1k are good. If you like soaking stone, Suehiro New Cerax 1k, Imanishi Bester 1k or 1200 are nice.
@@tailibaba Thanks for the response debado sne vs cerax 1k what do you think?
Well, SNE is much better.
I know I’m a year late, but I got the Naniwa Chosera (old model, not the professional) 1k and I loved it so much I got the 5k for a “finishing” stone.
Hey! It's never late!
The intro almost made me just go to a different video. It was pretty much as annoying as it was unnecessary
😊