Toilet Flange Too High | How to Fix Wobbly Toilets, Repair, Install New
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Is your toilet flange too high? Many people complain that their toilet wobbles on floor. In this video we show you how to remove your old toilet flange, (closet flange), mounted up too high now your toilet wobbles on tile floors. You need a toilet flange repair. We'll show you how to fix a toilet flange too high issue, install a new toilet flange at the correct height on the tile floor, for a perfectly stable toilet. Once you fix the toilet flange, your toilet wobbles on the floor problems will be gone forever. This was a classic bathroom plumbing disaster with a toilet too high from floor tiles.
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✅ Tools used in this install new toilet flange video:
✅ Oatey 43651 Closet Flange, 4-Inch amzn.to/2MTLSXa
✅ DEWALT DCK299D1T1 Hammer Drill, Impact Driver Kit: amzn.to/2M6h450
✅ Barwalt Blue Gripper 1/8" Tile Shim Wedges - 550 Pieces amzn.to/37ofwfM
✅ Sani Seal Llc BL01 Waxless Green Toilet Gasket: amzn.to/2WPg0HG
✅ Dripless 10oz Ergonomic Caulk Gun: amzn.to/2Du7tRJ
✅ Cramer 5-Fugi Caulking Kit: amzn.to/2DjZVC1
✅ Internal PVC Pipe Cutter: amzn.to/2AeDWLc
✅ Ridgid WD4070 4 Gallon Vacuum: amzn.to/2SAeyX6
✅ ITW 24375 Tapcon Concrete Screw, 1/4 in X 1-3/4 inch: amzn.to/2WPxx2D
✅ Tapcon 3/16 in. x 4-1/2 in. Carbide Drill Bits: amzn.to/2tdW0RD
How to repair wobbly toilet
A wobbly toilet can be root caused to the toilet flange, loose on the floor, not screwed down, or the toilet flange was mounted so that it sits up too high off the floor drain pipe, and the toilet is causing the flange to bend left and right. This is what happens when you have closet flange too high syndrome. No toilet flange repair ring is needed, you just need to rip out the old closet flange and install a new toilet flange.
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WATCH: How To Repair A Wobbly Toilet That's Loose And Rocking:
• How To FIX Wobbly Toil...
WATCH: DIY How to Remove a Rusted Toilet Bolt and Nut Stuck Together: • DIY How to Remove Rust...
Toilet flange replacement concrete floor:
Remember that to remove broken toilet flange can take up to an hour to get it all out depending on how it was cemented in place originally.
Setting proper toilet flange height
In the case of the toilet flange in this video, the toilet flange height was too high, about 1 inch off the finished floor. We had to use 1" tall spacer wedges to balance the wobbly toilet to keep it from wobbling until we would make this toilet flange repair. Stick with us and learn how to fix wobbly toilet.
How to remove broken toilet flange (closet flange)
This toilet wobbles on tile floor; we need to remove the old toilet flange, install a new one to let it sit on top of the finished floor. Toilet flange removal requires old school chiseling, so sit back and we'll show you how to remove broken toilet flanges for this toilet flange replacement project.
Toilet flange replacement to end toilet wobbles
Instead using of a toilet flange repair kit after you remove broken toilet flange, use a toilet flange part: Oatey Twist-N-Set open flange. For toilet flange removal, make vertical slices into the wall of the toilet flange, then chisel out the wall of the flange, leaving behind just the 4" wide waste pipe leading to the sewer system. All this work because of a closet flange too high off the tile floor.
How to install toilet flange (closet flange)
This is a toilet flange replacement PVC part, it can be used to repair a cast iron toilet flange. After you perform the toilet flange removal, adjust the black rubber gasket on your new toilet flange until it expands enough to require a wedging force to install the toilet flange into the 4" sewer pipe. Plumber's tip: choose the correct toilet flange replacement PVC plumbing part.
Remove broken toilet flange
New toilet flange is installed, and tightened to the floor with Tapcon screws, this is how to fix wobbly toilet, and will eliminate any toilet wobbles, learning how to install toilet flange should take about an hour of total plumbing work in your bathroom.
Toilet flange replacement PVC pipes
The proper toilet flange height is when flange is resting on top of the finished tile floor. Getting this correct toilet flange height when installing a toilet flange is crucial to having a steady toilet installation, this is how to repair wobbly toilets. This is how to fix a wobbly toilet
After viewing this toilet flange repair video, you'll know how to repair wobbly toilets. Now show your friends how to install toilet flanges.
That's the worst thing you can do to caulk around the toilet.........smh if there is ever any leak the guy will find out after his entire floor is rotten.
Apparently, you failed to pay attention, at 18:09. I stated we never caulk around the BACK of the toilet. smh This way if there's a leak you will still see the water.
@@jeffostroff ahaaaaaa!!!! you got me!! I apologize 😂😂👍👍
HAHAHAHAHA!!!!! You are right. That toilet should lay flush to the floor with no rock or wobble.
Yep, I’ve argued w inspectors til blue in the face about NOT CAULKING a toilet in. God forbid on a SECOND floor!?!?
“Ceiling just fell on our coffee table…. I wonder if our toilet had a leak start 6 mos ago?” Said NOBODY EVER
I just ran across this problem during my bathroom remodel. The old floor was cement board with ceramic tile over it. The new floor is going to be water proof vinyl which is much lower. I was afraid I was going to have to rip up the sub floor to cut out the toilet flange to lower it. I came across this video and now know how to do it the right way. Thank you so much!
Jeff what I use is plaster of Paris under the toilet bowl. This keeps the bowl from moving.
Once the bowl and old wax seal is off . The flange is set. Everything is cleaned and ready to put everything back. I get the bowl I put in place I use a pencil to outline the base of the bowl. Now I move the bowl off to the side.
I set flange bolts in and put the new wax seal in. Now I mix some Plaster of Paris with water. This stuff drys fast so you need to work fast. I put the plaster of Paris inside the pencil line and add it in the back and fast area. Now I put the toilet bowl in place and get my level check left/Right front/back. You need to start tightening the 2 bowl nuts down. Put the tank on. Once it’s in place let it dry. Then caulk around the bottom base. That toilet bowl should sit tight.
Good plan! Some people also use grout around the perimeter. I still prefer using shims, because then the toilet won't move no matter what. Guys who use grout, the toilet can't be used for hours until the grout hardens and shims the toilet in place.
Jeff....I work at Home Depot..........I watch you and give advise at the store....everyone thinks I am a plumber.....! You make me look good....! Thanks Jeff....!
Wow, thanks! That's awesome Albert!
Very helpful video. Nonetheless, I've got to say that when I saw you mounting the toilet and caulking it across the front on top of that grimy, dirty stain, it just lit up my OCDness. Reminded me of a photo I once saw where a road striping crew striped over a dead possum in the middle of a highway, rather than moving it first. I'd always suggest cleaning thoroughly any surface that's going to have caulking or sealer applied to it.
As always, thanks for sharing.
Steve
We could not get that tile to come clean. Was the worst tile I ever saw in my life, some real cheap 35 year old super porous tile, that absorbed all those satins and they won't come up.
Great video. 👍 I do remodeling and building maintenance and looks like a good fix.You should mention to home owners how much experience it takes to do this without damaging the drainpipe, so they may end up with a major repair if they accidentally cut or break the pipe below.
PS , you can use an anchor or if you on plywood you can drill through the tile and put a corrosion proof heavy duty wood screws to anchor the flange solid to the plywood .. About a 2 inch screw.
PS. Tip for you, cut the tip on the caulk tube a tiny bit larger than the gap. The caulk will go inside the joint by itself if you gun it and make the gap get filled as you move the caulk gun.
PS, to those of you saying no caulking should be done,, some tile jobs can look like a roller coaster , so you have to caulk. He did say to leave back open ...in case of a leak.
Great suggestions, thanks Recylce Spinning
✅ Tools used in this install new toilet flange video:
✅ Oatey 43651 Closet Flange, 4-Inch amzn.to/2MTLSXa
✅ DEWALT DCK299D1T1 Hammer Drill, Impact Driver Kit: amzn.to/2M6h450
✅ Barwalt Blue Gripper 1/8" Tile Shim Wedges - 550 Pieces amzn.to/37ofwfM
✅ Sani Seal Llc BL01 Waxless Green Toilet Gasket: amzn.to/2WPg0HG
✅ Dripless 10oz Ergonomic Caulk Gun: amzn.to/2Du7tRJ
✅ Cramer 5-Fugi Caulking Kit: amzn.to/2DjZVC1
✅ Internal PVC Pipe Cutter: amzn.to/2AeDWLc
✅ Ridgid WD4070 4 Gallon Vacuum: amzn.to/2SAeyX6
✅ ITW 24375 Tapcon Concrete Screw, 1/4 in X 1-3/4 inch: amzn.to/2WPxx2D
✅ Tapcon 3/16 in. x 4-1/2 in. Carbide Drill Bits: amzn.to/2tdW0RD
Kudos that you're able to drill into the concrete and not use 'hammer drill' mode. I'm a newbie at this stuff and any time I have tried using Tapcon screws - in my case into either concrete slab or even concrete block - I quickly lose patience with the slowness of progress using my regular drill.
So I bought a hammer drill and that solved the problem. But you absolutely cannot do it unless you have ear coverings. I use headphones-style sound deadening - it looks like large stereo headphones but it nearly eliminates the outside noise. It's astonishing how loud the hammer drill is.
Thanks for the excellent video! Really answered a lot of questions about the toilet flange - we're rehabbing a bathroom and this video illuminated all the issues we're facing. Thank you!
@@Greg_Chase yes those suckered sound even louder in an enclosed echo bathroom
You all prolly dont care at all but does anybody know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?
I somehow forgot the password. I would love any help you can offer me!
@Houston Joe instablaster =)
@Zahir Russell i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process now.
I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
I like the way you did this job , taking time to do it right despite the uneven floor . Thanks
Thanks Mohamed, glad you liked it.
Well, it was last Sunday(7/24) I spent 5 hours wirh a concrete chisel, a cold chisel and a vacuum to bust out the area needed to bring my PVC flange to slightly above floor level. The toilet was 40 years old and was replaced with a much better American Standard. I still have to get a couple concrete drill bits and blue screws, but it doesn't rock. I used the blue rubber Fluildmaster 7530 seal. 7 out of 10 plumbers use them. Good enough for me.
Gosh, I am no longer intimidated by the prospect of fixing/changing out leaky/wobbly toilets!! I love that you provide details and insight for realistic situations you’re likely to encounter. Thank you!!! I’m new to your channel & totally subscribed 😀
Glad it was helpful! Welcome aboard Lisa!
I like that caulking sled. The top of flange should be no more than 1/4 over the finished floor so that there is room for the ring since the underside of the toilet is only 9/16 above finshed. The pvc type flange is 1/2 inch thick so needs to be set below the finished floor - or else it calls for shims. I'd use a thinner metal/pvc flange or better yet set the plastic flange below finished floor level. I have seen way more flanges set too high than too low, but either are a problem - frankly the whole toilet design is a problem calling for a new answer.
The problem with metal flanges is they rust and break.
My plumber installed a flange with a metal ring that was raised up about 3/16". The flange had a plastic seal in the center. I tried to dry seat the toilet and it wouldn't sit flush with the floor. I couldn't believe it--thought that he had set the flange too high. Originally the plan was for laminate floor, but I ended up doing sheet vinyl which is thinner, so I thought that was the problem. Started messing with shims and even siliconed them to the floor to keep them in place.
It's a good thing I thought to go back to the videos and study them more carefully. It dawned on me that my flange was actually perfect. The problem is me; I am an idiot. I first needed to break out that seal. Then all was well in the toilet world. There are no videos showing a flange with this seal and advising you to remove it even before dry seating. I really didn't think it would impede the seating. This is why even though I watch a zillion videos first, projects still take me 3x as long as the guys in the videos.
Thanks for the vid. I replaced my toilet a few years ago after I had to patch the floor under it. Always had a wobble and just recently the flange snapped on one side.
Watching this video opened my eyes to the errors I made with this repair job I did. I am in the process of replacing 3/4 of the bathroom floor now and will do a much better job this go around. Thanks you.
Glad it helped
This man is really number 1 in the number 2 business.
That job pooped me out!
Really clear instructions. Our landlord had to fix the flange and replace the wax ring on ours a while back, and I noticed there was still some play up in the front after they caulked it.
Really didnt want another landlord appointment, so great tip on thise plastic shims, I'll have to get some.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Excellent video! One of the most articulately explaned videos i've seen!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, your video was so helpful. From start to finish your video helped me fix my two toilets. AND NOW THEY DON’T BUDGE!
Awesome news Ramon, glad to hear it helped you
I find it hilarious that people alleging to be 25, 35, 40 year plumbers would sit through a 10 or more minute video on how to seat a toilet and then spend even more time criticizing the video. That would be like me going on CZcams and sitting there listening to air traffic control simulator videos criticizing someone for their phraseology lol. Get a life outside of the bathroom y'all. Thank you for posting this video! Very informative and exactly what I needed today.
Glad to help Robert!
Styx
. Too much time on my hands
@@jsparlin1 Great tune I remember that song
I’m a plumber for 45 years. That’s all I watch is plumbing repair videos that’s because that’s what I do all day then watch videos at night I must be crazy at least that’s what my wife says
@@patrickdavis3409don't be too concerned. wives tend to think we're crazy..i'm an electrician and can't stand to watch them..watch navy things, history, what they look like now..nonsense stuff
Your so patient w the toilet base caulking! I like the caulk tapes.
Thanks, it's dirty work but someone has to do it
I find that it's a good practice that after the toilet has been in use for a couple of weeks, to go back and check the flange bolts for tightness. The wax seal is gonna flatten out a bit more with use and the bolts won't be so tight anymore.
By installing the shims like we do you won't have to re-check them in 2 weeks, because there is nowhere for the toilet to sink to.
Great job. I got a good laugh when you reached down on the side of the commode at 53 seconds with the white nut in your hand and pretended to be taking it off. Just picking at you but it was funny. Thanks.
Yes, I'm like the producers of COPS, take the cuffs off the guy it was out of focus, we need to re-shoot. So many funny failures were going on during that shoot. You know that every time you turn on the video camera, a nut will fail to unscrew off a bolt.
Exactly what I needed. I have the exact problem at my daughters house. The toilet flange is way to high. The toilet won't even sit on the floor. Thanks very much. I'm off to buy parts and a few tools to do the job right. Thanks again.
Awesome glad to help!
That was so much more informative than the others out there! Very good demo. Quick question of I may.. While trying to break the original flange from the toilet drain, I ended up with large chips from the drain pipe. Just a new flange won't work, is there anything I can fix the chipped drain with to form up the drain? A reduced or special flange? I can't work from underneath the drain either, no access! Thank you
Frank, are the chips from the drain pipe so large that the new drain flange won't cover them? If so, you'll have to get a plumber to come in and install a new drain pipe that slips inside the broken and chipped up .
Frank Garvey if it’s in concrete if it’s 4” coming up you can still glue in a flange long as pipe isn’t below floor more then probably about 1 and a half inches. Long as new flange will seal on old pipe. Or they make a flange that is a bit longer that will go inside pipe and you tighten it up it expands and seals usually for cast iron.. Or there is a drill bit to drill pipe out of fitting. Or you can notch pipe in fitting and chisel it out. But if it’s old or brittle there is a chance fitting will break
Great video and explanation as you went through it! THANKS! I just would’ve replaced that Sani Seal because it didn’t look as if it was in the best condition.
Do you know if they make an Oatey 4 inch closet flange like that (with the seal on the bottom) also with a stainless steel ring on top? I’m not a fan of the plastic and have been searching. I also don’t want to have to glue in the flange because if there’s an issue, it’s easier to replace something that can seal without being glued. Thanks!
Appreciate your time you took for this for us other DIYers!
Oh my gosh. So many good tips in one video.
Dripless caulk gun. (useful for all kinds of jobs. I'm battling with my oozing caulk gun right now on a different chore.)
Don't seal the back of the toilet.(never thought of that)
Blue tape on the grout lines which is useful for any caulk job against tile. Wish I had done that on my bathroom window repair.
Thanks for watching glad to help out
Glad to help out and thank you for watching our video
Very good Demo which i will be doing today.
Being left handed myself you always spot it on someone else too :)
south Paws rule!
Nice video, I’ve installed around 5000 flanges and they should be directly on the subfloor with tile butting up to the flange. You never want it sitting on the finished floor for 2 reasons. 1- you’ll have the rocking motion and 2-your gasket width, you want at least a 3/4” gasket or higher pending the depth of the flange to the finished floor (I prefer sponge gaskets over wax) When you put a bowl down it should feel spongie (if that’s a word) so when you tighten the bolts it will squeeze the sponge gasket. You should refrain from siliconing around a bowl, how will you ever know if it’s leaking until it damages your ceiling below? I would have marked around the flange onto the tile, chip away at the tile so the flange would fit into to circle you’ve chipped away at.
No disrespect intended, just my two cents for whatever it’s worth
Good tips, accept for the silicone part. You do want to silicone the toilet. I did not silicone around the back of the toilet, so any water flooding from inside the toilet will work it's way out the back where we did not silicone. I mentioned it clearly in the video as to why we did not silicone the back. Also, what if there is a spill in your bathroom and you did not silicone around the toilet? Now water goes under and leaks down through the subfloor to other apartments below if you're in multi family housing.
That where you're wrong closet flange goes on finished floor, always no Exceptions , I've been plumbing since late 80's and your the first person I've ever heard to put the flange on the subfloor, why do you think we plumber's leave the toilet pipe up during the ruff in we cut the pipe and install the toilet flange after the floors are done.
@@jeffostroff your right on the caulking around and leaving the back open, But Stone was wrong about the flange going on the subfloor it goes on the finished floor he might want to check the plumbing codes again, he's one of the guys I'm aways having to go behind and fix his mistakes, I'm trying to be polite but the flange goes on the finished floor!!!!! NO,EXCEPTIONS
@@plumbbuild6517 In Response to your comment about his placing the flange on the sub floor, you can do that if you put the spacers on there and you have to make sure you silicone the inside of the spacer so it doesn't leak out. This happens often when somebody is remodeling an old bathroom floor that might have been linoleum, and you come in with a quarter inch thick layer of mortar, and and a quarter or half inch thick layer of travertine tile, now you're a 1/2 inch up above the original toilet flange, so you simply add spacers to get the flange height above the surface of the tile floor. But yes you are indeed correct the final height of the finished flange should be above the finished floor
@@jeffostroff your right that why I keep flange spacers on my van because I run into that quite often. Thanks for your videos, and comments have a good day
I might suggest cleaning the tile well before you silicone the toilet (it's hard to clean the dirty tile after silicone is applied and also hard to get silicone to adhere well to dirty tile).
We try to clean that tile it would not come clean it was some really terribly horribly porous junk tile that the builder had used this was the builder's own house that was obviously built from lousy subcontractors called in to do favors
Great Video, I grout toilet to floor , it seals and supports toilet at same time.
Yes,a lot of guys do that, the gout acts as a shim around the base of the toilet once it dries. I do however prefer using silicone for that shiny modern look, and use small shims to make sure the toilet is wobble free first, then tool out the silicone. Grout can absorb urine stains over the years from all those kids and ladies with bad aim.
In 45 years of plumbing, I've never seen a plumber place wedges under the toilet where it contacts the floor. Never, never caulk around the base of a toilet. Any water that may leak or back up from the toilet drain will be held under the toilet to soak into and rot the flooring or seep between the tile and the subfloor. By the time that your aware that there is a leak, the floor under the toilet will be ruined. If the gasket fails and there is a leak from the drain, you want to see the water run out from under the toilet as soon as possible, so you can have it fixed immediately.
So good in all of your years you've never seen anybody do it right then because putting the wedges under the toilet like we have is the best way to do it! Some plumbers prefer to do it with grout or plaster anything anything that can Harden in form a nice molded fit under the toilet works. But also you didn't pay attention very well to the video because I did not caulk all the way around the back and in fact you know darn well I said in the video we don't caulk around the back we leave the back open in case you ever get a leak the water has a place to go it leaks out the back and that way you know that there is a leak.
@@jeffostroff I was aware that you didn't caulk around the back, but if the floor were unlevel and sloping to the front or sides of the toilet, a lot of water and damage could build up before it escaped the back to indicate a problem.
If you are a real Licensed Professional Plumber then you must have fell asleep during code class. The International Residential Code states "where fixtures come in contact with walls and floors the contact area shall be water tight" P2705.3
I totally agree with you. I don't care what codes may say if you seal around the bottom of a toilet it will hide problems that can rot a floor or ,for example, cause water to run down to a floor below. I've only been plumbing for 30 years so not much I haven't seen. A properly sealed toilet never should be caulked around its base. That is what wax rings are for. We use wedges fairly often because there are some crappy tile installation guys.
@@BenDover-ty6my that is what wax rings are for.
Good instructional video. However, for future re-tiling, will have to re-work the flange. Should have cut a circle on the tile before mounting the flange. This way with new tiling, it won't interfere with existing flange.
Thank you!!! Exactly what I needed to see. I’m headed to HD for one of them drill cutting attachment
Good luck!
Thank you for a thorough and informative presentation.
Glad to help out Paul thanks for watching
What is the gallon capacity is your wet vac? That's a easy fix from looking at this but I am seeing my share of old metal flanges rusted out and making a simple closet bolt impossible to attach on one side, making it rock and leaking on floor. My fault for not watching the whole video, you answered my delima. Thanks Jeff.
Yes Thomas, I believe that was a 3 or 4 gallon vac, it was at my friend's house, so we used theirs instead of mine. Lots of metal flanges rust through. You can by half moon shaped brackets to screw down to repair on section that rusted out, or just go old school on it to remove the old metal one and replace with a new one. Either case, make sure the flange is bolted to the floor. 4 bolts is optimum, if you can't get 4, at least get 2 bolts into the concrete or the toilet will rock because the flange will be free to move too much.
Thank you for teaching us. Love the detail info.
Thanks for watching, glad to help
great fix. don't you hate it when builders screw up like this... never saw that type of expanding flange before.
Yes this is a relatively new flange part
I’m no builder but had a house done and the guys didn’t know I was going to do tile....they just didn’t know...
Pretty cool how at 6:32 your shop vac is the 3rd of the Gmaj chord in the music track. Your vac is a B note :-)
Music theory and toilet changing have always gone hand in hand!
I agree how you did the flange but we always mark out the toliet and put plaster of paris down.that helps setting the solid and keep mthane gas leaking out.
Plaster is OK for stability, but it is wrong to use it to block gas, because that means you are filling in all the way around the back of the toilet which you should not do. I always leave The back of the toilet open in case there's ever a water leak you want to be able to see it come out the back of the toilet and that way you'll know there is a leak. Also in all my years I've never seen a gas or water leak if you have a properly installed wax ring it should make a great seal against gases. Additionally, there is another trap under the toilet in the plumbing which should stop any gasses.
What kind of gases??? My toilet has been out of commission for about 2 wks??? Waiting on $$$$$ Could I get sick from gases????
Good explanations for why you do things. Very appreciated
I appreciate that!
Great video... But correct me if I'm wrong I was told never caulke around the toilet base because you'll never know if it's leaking or not.🤔
They are very incorrect. If you noticed I caulked around the toilet base but not around the back so if there was a leak the water would still get out. It's especially important to caulk the toilet to the floor if you live on an upper floor above somebody because if you ever have a leak in your bathroom it's gonna go under your toilet and down the space between the flange and the floor and drop down onto your neighbor's ceiling and now you're going to be responsible for paying for their damages. Hopefully the guy that gave you that advice on not caulking to toilet we'll cover the payment
(True Story) I changed out a toilet about 3 years ago. For some time now it has that slight wobble. I never understood why until I watched this video and realized I never did bolt the flange down. Also I have some of the tapcon screws in one of my tool boxes. Every time I see them I say to myself what are these for and why are they blue. Now I know why. With that being said because of this video it is fixed now and I did it all by myself, well with a little help from your video which by the way was an awesome video. Thank You (The Cajun Ninja's Dad)
Awesome!
I enjoyed seeing how to lower the flange. I think screwing the flange into the concrete is probably not necessary. I don't think that the toilet will rock, if not done. Maybe it would turn or swivel without the concrete screws, but after the caulk dries, I think that's enough to keep the toilette from turning. However, maybe down the road, if you replace the toilet, the wax ring might adhere, then pullout the flange with the toilet. Now that, I can see as a reason for screwing it down. Tip with silicone, if you have to touch it, or smooth it with your finger, first dip your finger in some 409. Your finger will slide right over it.
Screwing the flange to the flooring is most certainly necessary otherwise the toilet will not only move it is also pulling on the pipe especially if that flange is glued in
An oscillating "multitool" saw would be great for cutting off any protruding pipeflush with the tile.
Yes, that would work also.
Phoebe Ann Sharp sawsall that way you can bevel the inside so flange will sit flush on floor
Yes! Perfect for ABS or CPVC pipe only.
Instead of inside pipe cutter I usually just use a saws all and bevel the inside of the pipe then you can just glue another flange in. I did one the 90 was about 6” bellow grade and coming up about a 30 degree angle how they had the stool set I have no idea one side touched the floor the other at least a inch off the floor. I sure wasn’t chipping up the floor to redo the 90 so I figured out how long of a piece I needed then glued it in the flange and took it outside heated it with my torch and made my own fitting brought it back in still warm boy it stank glued it up jabbed it in and stood on it for a bit. It came out great It was one of those things st the end of the day and it was a 16 hour day pretty much everything there was like that.
Engineering in the field at its finest. Cudos to you my brother from another mother! Most guys would not endeavor to correct that old slanted batman set.
jeffostroff it was the end of the day two hours from home and a 16 hour day. But the best part about it, it was prevailing wage on a army barracks so the ot was about 100 an hour.Just a little trick of the trade sometimes when things won’t fit right just het her nice and warm with your torch and it will form whatever shape you need.
jeffostroff well the way I was taught anything can be done it’s just how much money do you throw at it. I can’t leave someone hanging after I start a job it has to be done. If I don’t do it what are you going to do call a plumber. If I don’t know how ill find out. Just got a job today running water to a bunch of tanks for canibus concentrates. Don’t have a clue but long as I can get a set of schematics for them it’s just running water to them and a drain out.
Great complete explanation with the "whys" answered also. Kept me out of trouble, knowing what to expect and WHY. Thank you !!
Worst way to discover a loose flange is when your working in a tiny bathroom on a sink drain and as you stand up your backside lifts the damn toilet an inch off the floor.
That would be a good video LOL!
Thank you for your videos help me a lot
Right now I am changing my toilet and I found that the pipe is in metal how can I glue the flange to this pipe do you know what king the glue will be good I appreciate your advice
Thank you
Martha
There is no need to glue the flange to the pipe. You typically screw the flange down to the floor anyway. Also like the one I showed here from Oatey it's got a rubber gasket on it that's meant to seal against the inside of that pipe
That is some serious attention to details. nice work
Thanks jj, glad you liked it!
Using my wet finger makes it look awesome every time!
Yes a lot of people like doing it that way, even though the industry pros frown down on it because it creates a weaker concave bead.
Problem, flange to high due to
Improper install in first place. You cut out the old flange. Original pipe is ok just get a new flange from Otay you know the one with metal ring that is designed to go on top of the finished floor. Trim the pipe down with cutting tool then glue the new flange in like it’s supposed to be done. The thicker plastic flange is more designed to be installed on base floor not the finished floor. That repair ring is more for installing in cast iron pipe. While it can be used in this manner it is not the best repair in this situation.
Yup that will work too
I trust glue more than a rubber flange over time.
An Oscillating saw is a great tool to use to cut the PVC flush with the floor. The way toilets are mounted is inherently a weak design.
Yes, I hate the whole toilet flange design
HF unit is cheap and good enough. Accept no substitute for oscillating tool when needing careful plunge cuts. Once you have used one you’ll wonder how you ever lived without one. You don’t use it often but when you need it and don’t have one🙈.
@@drizler HF?
Gracias por realizar este instructivo vídeo de enseñanza maestro!
you are welcome!
Thank you Sir. You answered all my questions about the flange. 👍👍👍
Glad to help
Hi Jeff, may I make a recommendation I would’ve used a 4 x 3 stainless steel closet ring that will fit inside the 4 inch pipe that way you glue it in better connection than using that rubber donut and also a stainless steel ring will last longer than a plastic
You, my friend, know what you're talking about!
Very good job. The only thing I would do different is using DAP Quick Seal at the base of the toilet...easier to use, easier cleanup, not sticky, etc. Thank you.
But does it have 20 year guarantee against mold, and is it really waterproof 100%?
@@jeffostroff You could be right.
Why not clean the tile in front of the toilet off before caulking over it ?
We tried, it was ultra horrible ultra porous tile, and nothing would clean it off. The builder of the house also owned it, built from favors by several sub contractors, and each one was the worst in the world at their job.
The saying that we live in a less than perfect world is especially relevant to toilet installation, especially when you're working in 75 to 100 year old apartment houses. Sometimes you just have to do the best you with what you have or the budget you are limited to.
the worst is old wooden sub floors built from sheets of plywood that are too thin!
That was an easy job. You should see some of the ones I have had to fix. BTW they do make a similar cast iron flange that fits like the
PVC flange that you used. I like CI because it holds up to bolts better than the thin plastic of a PVC one.
I will check it out
I had the same problem. I only needed to make a quarter inches thick wooden podium shape like the base of the toilet. It will look good too.
Very common problem many pro plumbers and builders simply don't know how to rough in a toilet
Like you, I used a quarter-inch off-white HDPE. I caulked the HDPE to the floor and shimmed on top of it before final mounting of the toilet. No visible caulk to discolor in the future and the shims are not visible. The flange was in good shape and if I put a laminate floor in the future it would be the right height but I went with sheet vinyl this time.
@@lym3204good to hear a similar solution. I have used this podium for over a year now and no problems still. Like you I also used caulk to secure the base of the podium but if I had to do it again I think I would skip that step because the weight and the screws on the toilet will keep the podium from moving. I shouldn't need to change toilet for a long time tho 😀
@@tonyman2c I got a good deal on the 1/4" 12"x24" HDPE from Grainger for only $11.18. The off-white matches the white toilet well. But your wood base must match your floor well if you have wood or wood laminate flooring.
@@lym3204 my floor was traditional multi color small tiles. Also I put 2 coats of semi gloss white on the podium for water resistance and look. So it matches well with the white toilet. I like your solution also because it's already white and the material is probably more durable than the regular plywood I used.
Excellent instructions, thank you.
Thank you for the information.
Glad you liked it!
Great video. I have to replace a broken PVC flange. It is from 1986 on a cement slab in Florida. It appears there is 1/2" gap around the outside of the 4" PVC waste pipe where some very small roots have come up. Also a roach or 2 that got to the surface!. Appears to be some sort of plastic sheet barrier in there as well (can't see everything until I cut away the flange). I'm planning on filling the gap with cement to make a barrier and hold the waste pipe in place. Any cautions on that approach? Is there supposed to be a gap? Thanks in advance.
You should be able to fill in the gap no problem. The sheet plastic you see might be part of the visqueen plastic sheets that they law down on the soil before pouring the concrete slab it is required by codes to keep moisture from coming up through the concrete slab.
Great Job. I am sure you had #3 Philips tip for the 1/4" Tapcon, but why bother. Still a fan
No, could not find it. those #3s disappear at the worst times, every time I think I have one there is none to be found.
Very educational good job
Thanks Rainbow, glad you liked it!
Just curious why you wouldn't opt to use a clear silicone on the bottom of the toilet? It would give a much cleaner look and wouldn't be as noticeable in the grout lines or as contrasting with the tile color. Thanks for the video 😁
I use white not clear. White matches the bottom of the toilet
Hi, Thanks for the nice video. If you using a flange with gasket, like the the you installed do you need use pvc cement or the gasket will prevent the leak? Thanks.
The gasket gets compressed and no cement is needed
Great video. I never knew that a pipe cutter like that existed... or the silicone kit. Buying tomorrow!!
There's an even better pipe cutter that comes out of Europe that makes the cut in 10 seconds! But the tool is $70!
jeffostroff you talking about the drill bit?
@@paulmayfield9709 yes, already got it
I have the same problem today looking for a better solution but if I have to remove the flange i would first cut a straight line with a saw down perpendicular to the floor then I will use a heat gun to heat the flang and slowly it will peel off with a long needle nose pliers!
I doubt the needle nose will be strong enough
@@jeffostroff
they have a long heavy duty needle nose that they are used in automotive garage and yes when you heat the pvc pipe it will be soft enough to fold it and remove it . but I got lucky the flange was not glued properly and as soon as I started cutting it came loose but I have removed other pvc pipe this way and it works .just heat the pipe with a heat gun and slowly keep folding the pipe .turst me it works
@@jeffostroff
make sure cover oinside of the pipe with an old rag wrapped in plastic then shove it in the pipe fra enough to clear the heated area then place a folded aluminum foil on top of it then go to work on the heating the pipe. but cut the pipe first with nothing on its way before covering the drain
If you go through all the trouble of removing the plans from the inside that pipe the 4-in pipe then glue a new flange down don't get one you have to expand and bolt it down glue one down like you're supposed to
They are all designed to be bolted down, that's why there are predrilled holes on the flange
Easy to install, czcams.com/users/postUgkxjA-hDN2m8_mi0Dg0JD8U6QiArozIAc4I and comfortable. No idea what other people were talking about when they said it was difficult to install or uncomfortable.
use four inch grinder to get to floor level. then buy ss floor flange..plastic fails..use tapcon screws..work.
Great tip!
What did you use to snip the blue shims? Did you leave them in place under the toilet to snip or remove them from under the toilet, then snip and place them back underneath the toilet?
I mark the shims, use my lineman pliers/snips to cut them, then slide it back under the toilet.
A multi tool would have been easier than using the internal pipe cutter. Also I think setting a toilet in grout is the best way to prevent wobble. Looks better than caulk and comes up easily if the toilet needs to be removed. A little more work but rock solid.
It a;; boils down to preference. Grout works good because it goes all the way around as one solid continuous shim. But we have seen grout crack and crumble. My preferred method is what you see here, where we used the blue shims fitted under the toilet, so now the toilet on its own is already rock solid, it does not have to depend on outside materials for its stability. Then we use white silicone, not caulk, which is waterproof and looks good also.
Never....never grout or caulk the base of a toilet.
@@chrisgraham2904 yeah too many times i've seen a toilet base caulked and guess what you can't see if it's leaking through the wax ring
Amazing This is EXACTLY what I needed
Glad to help Gene!
Yes man you are very good love all your details and showing us really good tips
I appreciate that thanks Alli!
You are very professional great job and you absolutely taught me something thanks 😊
Thanks, glad you liked it
I admire your common sense 👍💪
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
I did assist a friend in adding rings but he disagreed with caulking between the spacer rings. Do you believe it will eventually leak? Thank you for the videos Anthony
Unknown, but I know bby sealing the rings with silicone, they won't leak, so that's the path I take
Good explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
If you caulk a toilet you have to leave an opening for leak discovery. If the toilet rock of wobble. That need to be fixed. His problem is that big think green ring. It should have been chenge to a ring that has adjustable heights or just a plain wax ring.
Good job, you ever try Plaster of Paris on those tile floors?
have never worked with plaster.
@@jeffostroff an old plumber showed mere that trick, works fast and cheap to level toilets bowls, we used pull out the shims. You ever try using those electrician hut drivers to tighten the bolts? The long threads fit up into the shaft of the driver, and you don't over tighten the bolts.
Might I suggest you leave at least 1-2 small openings in the caulk either in the back, front or side ! If you have a bad gasket failure you’ll never know it if you seal it completely up!!! The water needs an escape route to know you have an issue. You can also grout the same are as well for a more professional look but leave a few openings again.
I leave the back of the toilet open, no caulk back there
Great video, work of art, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it Steve, thanks for watching
The real reason you do not want to use the hammer portion on the drill is less chance of cracking the tile floor !
Once I get through the tile, I have no problem using hammer mode.
@@jeffostroff 了
I don’t know about that green wax ring. It looked pretty beat up.
IT's fine
Will need your help when am doing insulation
Wear gloves, sometimes that stuff can get itchy
NICE JOB WELL DONE.
Thanks Josian, glad you liked it.
Excellent job !!!
Thanks Milton, glad you liked it!
I very much liked your video, but I don't understand why you didn't show the installation of the dounut ring, and also why didn't you show the different ring seals they have and why you used that big green one if it gonna be leveled good and why not a wax one. thank you so.much you are great at you're detail and good work. 👍👍🙂🇵🇷🇺🇸
The green ring seals exactly like the wax ring there's nothing esoteric about it you just put it in place of the wax ring and set the toilet down and they both act exactly the same way
Thank you so much for taking the time for my dumb quesrion I will be subscribing to your channel, 👍🙂🇵🇷🇺🇸
Great video Jeff buti still cant understand how backwards the USA is with plumbing. Do all toilets exit at the bottom and not out the back? Nearly all toilets in the uk and europe exit from the back and use a pvc pipe which just presses over the ceramic. None of this wax ring and levelling etc just bolt it down and shove the pipe in.
I wish it was that simple here! The problem exists because there is no standard for how the toilet flange should be connected , where it is at floor level, below floor level. The toilets have a built in trap and exit out the bottom.
CRAIG-CRAIG there are some but the only ones I have seen or set have been in commercial buildings. They also still use either a bowl wax or they have a rubber seal type flange you mount on wall
We have rear exiting toilets at the elderly building I work at but they still have a foam seal where it goes into the wall to connect to the pipe. Keep in mind it was built in the late 60s.
Commercial toilets here in canada have that system just changed one out, cracked tank and wall bracket broke. $1300 for toilet and $900 labour.
Never seen that tool before! Thanks.
Glad to help out, and thanks for watching Lance
I know that brown stuff was not accumulated poop, it's wax. Good video, thanks
Lot of it would not come up
Fantastic! Now I know what to do and I can do it. Thanks!!!
Glad I could help!
Flange lip is broken, now that I’ve cleaned the 200 lbs of wax away I can see that. It’s getting really involved to the point that we may just forget about the commode & squat over the hole. Lol!!!!!
Thank you very much for the very informative video on how to fix a toilet that is to high off the floor. Also thank you for pointing out the tools you use when you are doing a job, and thank for the Amazon link in your videos for the things that you use to do the job. I do have a question, you had to use some blue wedges under the toilet and you started to just cut them off once everything was level, what do you use to cut the wedges and do you remove them and cut them and then put them back under the toilet? I would deeply appreciate it if you would answer these questions about the wedges. Thank you once again for all of your informative videos. Please keep the videos coming. Keep up the great work!!!
I mark where I have to cut the wedges and IK snip them with my wire cutters. I also on occasion will use an oscillating multitool
Thank you for sharing of your knowledge.
Glad to help out, thanks for watching Henri!
Nicely done
Thanks Jose!
Great job, thank you so much for posting!!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
I did not see anyplace that the new flange was glued to the drain.
Did I miss something, or is there no need to glue the pieces together? Is a press fit adequate?
Yes, as I explained in the video, this is a press fit, and you screw the black rubber piece up onto the threads of the flange until it spreads the rubber piece out to form the seal inside the 4" pipe, rubber pieces is spread out so wide that you have to mallet the flange down into place. Then don't forget to bolt down the flange as well once it is down all the way onto the floor. Then the flange will not budge.
@@jeffostroff
Jeff thanks for the speedy reply.
I did watch the video, and I did see the rubber end and the explanation of the spreader part.
I appreciate you taking the time to explain things. Even explaining more than once :-)
I have just attempted to address the toilet flange problem, and unfortunately as I tried to turn off the water flow to the toilet, I ran into another issue. The valve must be corroded or worn or something, and I could not shut the water off completely.
Now, I need to either call in a plumber and have him replace the valve (and fix the toilet), or wait for sometime when I can shut off the water to the entire house, and fix the toilet.
In any event, you have been very helpful, and I am confident now that I can remove an existing flange and replace it with a new one.
Thank you Jeff....I wish you lived in Richmond, VA...I'd always hire you for jobs..
That would be cool
Are you using the clutch on the drill for the 4 screws? Maybe the clutch will stop before the head is striped. What happened to the stainless steel washers? Don't they come with the kit. Spreads out the force of the screws over a greater area, less chance of the plastic breaking.
Yes, the impact clutch seemed to be willing to let go early. Those massive Tapcon anchors can get real hard and tight to turn when you get near the bottom. Also could be I did not drill deep enough, and even though I vacuumed out the holes, there might still be enough powder at the bottom to prevent the screw from going all the way down.