The most quiet GEARS for Airsoft AEGs? | Tech Tipps | Before and after comparison
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- čas přidán 2. 08. 2024
- The main source for a squeeky sounding AEG is located in the gears. This is why i would like to show you how I make my replicas sound better - and which gear set I use for it. After trying dozens of different manufacturers and gear types, the ones you can see here are my absolute favourite.
They are easy to shim, sound amazing in any gearbox i installed them to, and the best: you can get the thing working even on a small budget. Have fun watching!
0:00 Intro
0:43 Introducing the gears
2:46 Installation and shimming
6:20 Before/after comparison
6:51 Final thoughts
Music by Patrizio from Pixabay - Sport
In case you want to purchase the shown gear-setup, you find the components for example here:
www.taiwangun.com/de/gears/short-stroke-12-tooth-cnc-set-cyma
www.taiwangun.com/de/langer-typ/cyma-high-torque-motor-long-22-tpa-cyma
shop-gun.de/produkt/longtype-high-torque-motor-22tpa-neodymmagnete-cyma/
www.softair.zone/airsoftwaffen-zubehoer/internals-gears/gears/gear-sets/cyma-cnc-steel-high-speed-gear-set.html?language=de
Things to note for those who plan to buy this exact setup. When the sector is short stroked by any amount of teeth (less than 15) make sure your piston has a FULL metal rack before installing a short stroked sector. If your piston is all plastic with one metal tooth, you will shred your piston teeth very quickly.
Research your replica’s internals before making all your purchases to check the piston or you can also simply add an upgraded, steel rack piston (~8 quid) at the time of checkout to be on the safe side.
To Rummbolt, great quality video and information! You earned me as a subscriber 100% ! Keep it up
Thank you very much for your kind words & the subscription!
I totally agree to your comment - for a durable build, a full-steel-teeth piston should be included as well. Have a good one , until the next video 🙂🙃
i appreciate this man. you deserve more subs m8
Thank you very much good sir! Subs and comments such as yours are always appreciated! Have a nice weekend!
Wow, i was not expecting that drastic improvement. Great video
Thanks man! Feel free to try it yourself 😊
@@rummbolt I ran away to the dark side of HPA with a wolverine inferno to be as quiet as possible. If i go back to AEG I will have to give it a go.
The Quietest Gear & motor setup is the Begadi DSG Gearset with a Warhead Motor.
With Perfect shimming and the correct motor alignment its brilliant.
And if you want it Quieter still, Use a Polly Gun its almost as quiet as a Really High end HPA build with silencer
Honestly the name "ghost gears" sounds really catchy
Yeah good Idea! We should remember this one 😁
Great video!
Thank you very much 😊
oh lol! you are here too XDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD
@@TorksTube Airsoft techs support other airsoft techs 😹😹😹💪
Firing stance and movement resembles a true Airsofter!
I´m just glad they don´t have to rely on me in the regular military services :P Ask my teammates :D
schönes video gute arbeit 👍
Danke dir, freut mich dass dir das Video gefällt ☺️
Wow that sounds amazing after the gear swap out
Yeah i think so, too! A quite impressive upgrade 😁
Could I potentially make it even faster, by putting the correct pinion gear on some thing like a titan warhead, have you tried anything like that?
I did not try it myself, but in theory i see no point why it should not work. If you try it some day, i'd be glad to hear about your results ✌️
Do you know which gun have both of this components ?
Yes, many Cyma Platinum guns have this setup pre-installed. For example their SCAR-L, the P90 or MP5. Feel free to check the online-shop of begadi.com, they have many of those guns in stock :)
Wow that Lonex was very noisy ootb. I reshimmed mine and actually threw in a Cyma 22 TPA like you had in the video. Also installed a Perun Hybrid and it sounds great now. Everything else is stock. Edit: Oh and I installed a maple leaf MR and omega nub. Range is now pushing 60 meters, but could be more if I gave it more hop, but I'd rather take a straighter line and less range than make the bb rise too much. The Lonex barrel seems to be very good.
WARNING! If you want to install an ETU in your Lonex gearbox, the wire holding tabs inside the gearbox are too tall and can crush the wires of you mosfet! That's atleast what happened to my Perun, not sure about Gate mosfets. I had to file down the tabs before the wires fit. Luckily it doesn't seem like the wires were damaged when I closed the gearbox, but it was a huge f*** up that I did not check.
Sounds like a great setup you built! Thanks for sharing your information - damaged cables really can be a pain in the a**.
The reason why this particular Lonex was so loud may probably be because it was used for many years without any maintenance. I bought it cheap from a friend. Now, it serves as a "trial-and-error"-gun for me, to test different internal combinations :)
@@rummbolt Oh yeah my heart almost stopped when I realized why the gearbox was so hard to close. I literally bought the Perun, walked home, and started to install it. If I'd had destroyed the Perun an hour after buying it I would've actually screamed in pain 😂 But yeah the new motor and mosfet really spiced it up and now it absolutely destroys. I run 0.32s through it and I'm amazed at the accuracy. I have a Cyma MP5SD6 High-speed (so same high speed gears and motor as you installed) with MR hop, omega nub, and lambda barrel, but the Lonex beats it in accuracy and range... which kinda pisses me off too because Lambdas are somewhat expensive. I guess the MP5 will become my CQB gat. Also a funny thing. My friend quit airsoft and sold the Lonex to me, in perfect working condition, for 50€ including 8 mags... 50€!!!
Really good catch! I noticed this myself on my Cyma CM045A High Speed version which comes stock with those gears and this is the most quiet replica I've got, thought I just got lucky or something.
On my first cyma platinum gun, i thought the same. But when i became aware that it can be copied to other replicas, it was like a no brainer to do so for all my AEGs. Have fun with your cyma!
@@rummbolt Thank you! Side question, what brand are your combat pants? I tried some cheap ones off of Ali Express but those things are uncomfortable as heck.
@@kris.krustev My Shirt- and-pants-set is from "Invadear Gear". They have lots of different camo options and come in for about 120€ together. I am completely satisfied, also have a set in black and one in Italian Vegetato :)
@@rummbolt thanks again! Keep the good videos coming.
@@kris.krustev I have to thank you for your subscription and your kind words! Greetings from Germany and enjoy your remaining week :)
got my aeg sounding like a hpa i use a air break in it though and brushless
Also an interesting idea, thanks for sharing :)
the pinion gear is or used to be sold by Rocket. 32 euros for CYMA gears is quite expensive. nice video.
Thanks for sharing the information! Do you maybe have a link for the stand alone Cyma pinion gear? Maybe it´s also interesting for other viewers :)
Concerning the price point for the gears...well, relatively seen, I´ve payed much more for gears that were a lot less silent (Lonex Helical Type for example, not so easy to shim..)
For the "sound quality" you get, it is a good value for your money in my eyes :D
I beleive the gears to be oem’d by shs. Although that bevel gear is different from the one you get from the off the shelf sets. I can get similar sound out of shs sets with an chihai motor pinion.
Another thing to note. I recently did a build in a cyma cm045a “high speed” which has this exact gear set. The sector gear with the sector delayer can cause tappet plate pme. This happened for me at 28rps with a t238 brushless motor. So if your going to use like a t238 brushless motor i would get a normal shs set. And a high speed delayer if you need a delayer.
@@kapler8550 also interesting to think about! SHS was known for good silent gears in the past, but for some reason, they are not listed in many shops here in Germany anymore.
Once, i got a defective SHS Spur gear about two years ago. The inner ring of teeth seperated from the outer one - something i did not experience with cyma yet :)
Do you feel like SHS gears are comparable? CYMA gears seem pretty hard to come by here in Mexico.
SHS Gears are very good as well, as long as you can get the original ones. Watch out for fake SHS sets, they are very poor in Quality.
@@rummbolt If you're referring to Rocket, that's a false statement
@@lukem3260 Not sure what you mean, but i had nothing about Rocket in mind :)
BEGADI SILVERLINE CNC GEARSET (LOW NOISE) 16:1-13z with 27k warhead motor and gate titan mosfet/etu.
Very fast trigger with my drumMag 2300 in few minutes empty (1,6j.)
Sounds like a great setup :)
I've had one of those break by the axle, so not my recommendation.
@ Thanks for sharing your experience. I got the silverlines in a G28, and never had issues like this. But on the other hand, it was not played very often :D
Hi.What brand is your scar?
Hi, its the cyma / cybergun Scar-L. I also have some gameplays on my channel :)
Really nice info, never considered using cyma gears , i Will surely try them
Thanks - i hope they will give you the same results as they did for me
Get your cyma plat shimmed and have perun fitted and you can't even hear the gears turn. That the sound of the piston. I have my cyma platinum gearboxes fully upgraded and refined. I'm not building a dsg. The stock motor is fine as it is a 22k.
Yes, with an electrical trigger unit and precocking, it gets even better! Good information, thanks for sharing!
what is your model of camera in your front please?
You´re asking about my headcam? It´s the Runcam Thumb Pro :) Or you mean the cam which is recording the tech footage? This would be my smartphone Camera, Oppa Find X2 Pro :D
@@rummbolt no your front camera
@@trexcommander4787 I do not use any other cameras in this video :)
I also use the Runcam Scope cam 2, the Runcam 2, the Runcam Helmet cam and the Akaso Brave 6 Plus, but only in my other videos :)
Nice Headset. Wich Brand is it and how does it Performs
@@felix1846 thank you! Its the ZTac Comtac IV. Not very reliable though, lots of external cables to break. I only use it as a lightweight mount for my camera nowadays :)
Adding a foam filled suppressor would be nice so you only hear the gears for a more complete comparison. Great vid though! Very informative
Thanks for your kind words :)
I do have such a suppressor but actually do not feel it to be very effective.. maybe i can test it with the next project build :)
Have a good one!
I take it you've tried helical gears too? I tend to go with them for their quiet sound too
Yes, I tried Lonex Helical Gears before. It is one or two years ago, but the results (when I did it) were not as good as with the Cymas. However, I hear a lot of good things about helicals, when shimmed-in correctly, they are great for sure :)
@@rummboltHelical shimming is a little more complicated to get right, but if done correctly is extremely quiet.
Do you do tech work for other people? Where are you located?
There has not been any request yet, but in priciple, I´m open to do so, yes. I´m located in Germany, North Rhine Westphalia.
Would 13:1 gear set be to much for a 400 fps setup?
From my point of view, it should be possible with the right choice of components. -> High Torque Motor, good air sealing to make weaker springs possible and strong gears. I´m not sure if the Cymas could handle it in terms of durability, escpecially with the stroked sector gear. But i did not test them long enough to tell, sorry :)
@@rummbolt just watched you're DMR build. Might go with 16:1 gears with HT motor. But thanks for the respond :)
@@Newman11111 Okay cool - have fun and much success!
Bist du eigentlich aus DE? Kurze frage, Muss man auf Irgendwas achten wie mann die Tappetplate einbaut? Oder Einfach zusammen stecken und es zieht sich selbst zurecht?
Ich würde nur darauf achten, dass der Steuernocken des Sector Gears die Tappetplate nicht nach oben drückt. Und prüfen ob die Plate mit Nozzle sauber läuft. Ansonsten macht die eigentlich recht wenig Probleme, da sollte sich nichts "zurechtziehen" müssen :)
Achso ja, ich komme aus Deutschland genau.
@@rummbolt also muss man schon darauf achten, daß man alles richtig hinlegt. Hab bisher nicht ganz verstanden, wie das mit dem ausrichten der Zahnräder Funktioniert wenn Leute es in Videos zusammen bauen. Dachte immer die legen das so pi mal daumen rein und dann nach dem ersten Schuss legt sich alles richtig hin.
@@rummbolt was ist denn dein Standart Feld? Vielleicht sieht man sich ja :)
@@spectreplaysz Das hängt ein bisschen vom System ab. Grundsätzlich stimmt das schon, wenn du aber beispielsweise ein System mit Cut-Off Lever hast, könnte es im ungünstigsten Fall sein, dass dieser die Switchkontakte aushebelt, sodass du die Waffe quasi gejammt wieder zusammenbaust. Das ist aber sehr unwahrscheinlich, und du kannst die Gears ja auch manuell noch drehen wenn die GB geschlossen ist. Ich würde sie an deiner Stelle so positionieren, dass die Feder der Tappetplate so entspannt wie möglich ist. Es ist sowieso nur das Sectorgear relevant, die Drehposition von Spur, Bevel und Pinion ist komplett egal. Würde aber auch empfehlen, das beim ersten Mal zusammen mit jemandem zu machen, der schon ein bisschen Erfahrung hat, damit hinterher auch wieder alles funktioniert wie es soll :)
Great video! Would I need a MOSFET to do this in my Cyma CM.011?
@@DrZirta Hi and thanks for you comment. I never opened a cyma like your, but a mosfet or even etu makes things a lot easier.
Without, finding the correct combination of spring, motor and battery can be harder because you need the right cycle timing for semi.
Active break mosfets and cycle detection etus can help here.
Have a good one!
@@rummbolt hey thanks for the quick reply! This is my first foray into AEG modding so I’m a bit clueless! Can you recommend any affordable mosfet / etus? And did you use one here? :)
@@DrZirta in this particular case, i do not use any mosfet. But its a little advanced. If i were you, i would ask an experienced airsoft tech to do the first project built together. Or try it with an older replica you do not play very often. Chances are not low you could mess up the timing.
Also, etu installation requires some experience.
The easiest in my eyes would be a gate aster or maybe an ASCU.
But also here: do your first steps in teching together with someone experienced - results AND learning will be best then in my eyes. Have a good one!
@@rummbolt Okay thank you! Sounds like i should enjoy my g36 as it is :)
Hey what facemask are you using?
It's the Cygnus Armory Warrior mask in Gen 2 :)
How many joules do you shoot with that setup.
This particular setup shoots 1,2 Joules at 0.2g BBs. By installing the 13:1 short stroke gears from Cyma, it lost about 0,3 Joules, as it was ~1.5 before. In theory, you can add more power by using a stiffer spring. Or you can exchange the sector gear, but I did not try it yet so i can´t tell how this will effect power and sound :)
Yaee. We have 1.69 joules without any safety distance.
@@martinjensen257 Thats also no problem with those gears, just make sure to use a stronger spring than stock and take care for proper air seal :)
Crazy difference to be honest :)
Thought the same when i found this combination about one year ago and wonder why it is not more popular yet 🤔 Have a good one!
I wonder... why do you even bother to run an AEG on 7.4 or 8.1 NiMH... mosfet/trigger unit, 11.1 and you have an entirely different replica in your hands.
I think you´re right. All my replicas run on 11.1v Lipos. The project gun you see in the video belonged to a friend before and serves as a "trial and error" replica now, also for showing different things here on youtube. But i totally agree: With 11.1v and a good mosfet/trigger unit, the system reacts a lot more "crisp" / "sharp". But it still can produce some scratchy noises, that´s why I decided to make a video on those gears by Cyma :)
Doing bench work it is easier to hear the gear box with a 7.4 compared to an 11.1 due to the cycle time being slower. If you shim test a gear box with an 11.1 your ear can easily miss delicate audio queues like something may be rubbing, PME, tightness/looseness. Also a good rule of thumb is to build an AEG that can function with a 7.4 to provide variety. A good example is my PKM, sometimes I want that fast rate of fire with an 11.1 but others I prefer a slower speed to sustain longer bursts and/or conserve ammo.
I can run 7.4v or 11.1v in all my guns, with the gate warfet or the titan, the warfet seems to prefer 11.1, but with the titan 7.4 is completly fine, way faster trigger response than my finger speed and more than enough to even overshoot people, something that i hate, and the temperature overall is way lower, not even warm. Also tested a 9.9 LIFE battery, awesome results with all kind of trigger setups, but i have too many lipos to swap to lifes XD.
Jeeeez the difference! :O ...... well To Cyma we go i guess
Good choice :D I´m planning to install a fourth set to my G28 soon :) Have fun with the gears in case you order some!
Hab bei meiner g&g cm 16 srs absolut nichts gebracht....
Du hast mir ja auch im ASVZ geschrieben, ich vermute dass es daran liegt dass du nicht das Cyma Pinion Gear verwendet hast. Kann die Qualität deines Shimmings natürlich nicht beurteilen, habs ja nicht gesehen - kann nur sagen dass ich in drei verschiedenen V2-Gearboxen die gleichen, guten Resultate hatte :)
Das kann bei G&G auch einfach an der Feder liegen. Die schwingt bei G&G Waffen immer nach. Das kann man mit einer vernünftigen AEG Feder von Cyma,Begadi usw lösen.
Wer auch immer den Anfang beigebracht hat, der hat keine Ahnung, oder es wurde nicht zugehört.
Fedening hat nichts, aber garnix, mit dem Abzug zutun. Egal wie schnell ich den bespiele.
4 Einrastpositionen sind ok, besser wären (wie Cyma eigentlich immer hatte) 6, aber wenn ich ohne ETU einfach loslasse im Schuss, oder nen Kack Akku habe, hab ich auch nen JAM.
Das Spurgear, kann alleine nicht vorgeben, wie das Verhältnis ist. 13:1 Spur passt nicht auf 18:1 Bevel.
Kürzere Zyklen, erzeugen genausoviel Geräusche, nur die Frequenz ist höher und kann besser vom Pistonaufschlag überlagert werden.
Und den Ferromotor gegen einen Neo tauschen, bringt auch schon viel, wie man bei dir ja sieht (aber aufgrund des Allestausch nicht hören kann).
Danke für dein Feedback! Beigebracht habe ich mir das Airsoft Teching in erster Linie selbst, und die Aussagen basieren auf eigener Erfahrung. Schade dass du also der Meinung bist, ich hätte keine Ahnung :)
Zum ersten Punkt: Das Video behandelt in erster Linie den Sound, auf Feeding gehe ich nur kurz beim Delayer Clip ein. Es geht mir dabei darum, zu sagen, dass durch den Clip den BBs (auch bei schnelleren Schusszyklen) durch das länger geöffnete Nozzle mehr Zeit zum Nachrücken in die HU bleibt - gebe dir Recht, dass "faster Trigger Finger" hier als Formulierung unglücklich ist. "Fast Shooting Cycle" wäre besser gewesen.
Mein Gedankengang bei 4 Einrastpositionen (besser als bspw. 6) ist der, dass die Gears damit "mehr" Weg haben, um durch den Federdruck zurückzuwandern, wenn ich den Trigger zu einem ungünstigen Zeitpunkt löse. Dies könnte den Cutoff Lever dann günstigerweise wieder absenken. Generation 1 dieses Gearsets hatte noch 6 Positionen, die zweite Generation hat nun vier. Das wäre zumindest mein Erklärungsansatz für diesen Schritt seitens Cyma.
Mit dem Spurgear hast du völlig recht, ich habe es hier als das Gear interpretiert, das die Übersetzung "vorgibt". Eine andere Funktion als zu übersetzen, hat es ja schließlich nicht wirklich.
"Genausoviele" Geräusche ist ja erst einmal eine quantifizierende Aussage, da wäre erst mal die Frage zu klären, wie wir hier Geräusch messen. In der Lautstärke,in db , in der Dauer, in der das Geräusch auftritt ... In der Kernaussage stimme ich dir aber auch hier zu, dass der Aufprall des Pistons die (schneller ablaufende) Geräuschentwicklung der Gears besser übertönen kann.
Ich persönlich halte Geräuschunterschiede durch den Motor ansich zwar für gegeben, aber für nachrangig. Könnte man sicherlich auch noch mal testen.
Zusammengefasst hätte ein vertieftes Ausführen dieser Themen den Rahmen des Videos aber gesprengt, ich wollte gerne unter 10 Minuten bleiben. Wenn du möchtest, lass uns das Thema gerne im ASVZ vertiefen!
Wäre soweit alles cool, wenn der Cyma HT Motor nicht so viel Strom ziehen würde. Alternativ funktioniert auch sehr gut das SHS Pinion-Gear welches ich bereits in 2 Knifften in Kombi mit einem Mamba 19k verbaut habe. Musste das Bevelgear allerdings 0,10m höher Shimmen. Danach war hörbar kein Unterschied mehr, bei deutlich geringerem Stromverbrauch!
Ich persönlich bin immer gut mit dem Strom ausgekommen beim Cyma Motor, muss ich sagen, aber zur Not lässt sich das Pinion Gear ja auch einfach umpressen. Wenn das SHS Gear auch gut funktioniert, auch eine gute Idee - möglicherweise ists ja sogar das gleiche, beides aus China. Hatte früher mit SHS auch immer gute Erfahrungen gemacht was Geräuschkulisse anging, seitdem mir aber mal ein Spurgear von denen kaputt gegangen ist, hab ich die nicht mehr verbaut.
Mainly a decent shin job can removes the noise the gearset and motor are unnecessary
I would not agree here. At least, Bevel & Pinion gear should match. Mixing different manufacturers here can make it nearly impossible to shim properly - at least thats what my experience tells me :)
Better use modify mpi then cyma
Never tried those before to be honest :)
It' s waY better don't go that hot as cyma if u spam single fire
cool video but you can get the gear off the motor and place it on another motor
Thank you! Yep thats no problem as long as you have the proper tools for this job :)
@@rummbolt well i have iFixit screw driwers thats have small enough hex to unscrew the gear
@@fotografbeznapadu2 keep in mind that even some d-type motor axles have slightly different diameters, so maybe you will also need an additional tool to apply more pressure on the gear :)
It sure is definitely quieter with those set of gears
I think so, too! Going to install them to my G28 soon as well :) Happy Holidays!
PRECOCK
In the other M4 you see in the video, i combine the Cyma Gearset with precocking through Gate ASTER. Makes the response time and sound even more snappy :)
Amateur clockmaker here, gears do not need to be greased or oiled. Gears do not slide on teeth like people think they do, they roll off of the teeth. There is minimal friction on gears because of this. Oiling or greasing gear teeth serves to trap dust and metal particles on the teeth and speed up the wear. Always oil pivots, but teeth don't need it
Thank you for those information!
In airsoft, it is very common to grease the gears - not in order to prevent tearing off primarily, but to reduce noise. Basically all replicas come with greased gears out of thr box. I don't know i gear noise is important in clock making - but this is the reason why i do it in every build. The difference with and without grease can be heared clearly in direct comparison :)
@@rummboltI don't think clock sprockets deal with a similar proportion of stress as airsoft gears compressing a power spring. Correct me if I am wrong
@@tryhardairsoft416 yeah i agree with that :)
Not how it works in airsoft brodi lol.
Im poor i dont have money for that i have 3 years old m4s and without upgrade
Thats still cool, Airsoft is all about having fun :) Changing gears etc just for better sound can be considered as a cool thing, but its not necessary for enjoying the hobby in my eyes :) have a good one!
@@rummbolt it is fully plastic and it have broken parts but it still works so i still having fun with it and i have pistol so id doesnt matter:)
@@vojtanususcze6099 thats the best attitude my friend! So much better than all of the guys running around with premium gear but being afraid to go low to not make it dirty... Keep on rockin!
@@rummbolt thanks
Jus get a mtw save the headache
For me, it´s acutally fun to optimize the sound of an AEG like this :) But i understand, some people do not like it, so it can be a good option for sure. Have a good one!