You prob already know, but the castle nut on those is not the issue. Those zip right off and you can pry the control arm down easy peasy. The issue on those is the pinch bolt holding the ball joint into the spindle like you mentioned.
Yes, you're right. I'm pretty sure this one would have come out fine, but if I broke that pinch bolt it would have turned a small job into an annoying nightmare. Instead I carefully marked and replaced that top camber adjustment bolt exactly the way it was. I also removed the speed sensor to avoid damaging it.
Yes it's possible to do this with the other wheel on the ground. As you jack up the opposite side, the sway bar gives a sigh of relief and those holes line up much more easily. Easy is good, ha ha.
In addition to marking the bolts and the tape measure , I just bought one of those camber level gauges on eBay for under $ 10.00 . I don't expect it to be perfect . But I can probably get close , especially on a beater with used tires .
You're right about alignment. Even though I marked the upper camber bolt head and exactly reproduced that position, it is not easy to get closer than a few degrees of accuracy. With a 19mm bolt head, 3 degrees is 0.5mm of rotational movement, which is about the limit of what can be reproduced without alignment. We're even assuming the factory alignment ten years ago is still accurate, and that the tech who does new alignment actually cares about results. Two approach options are there because neither is ideal. If you live in the rust belt, the risk and effort of ball joint removal is dramatically higher.
Played that swaybar game with a jeep before...took me about 20 minutes of struggling before i figured it out.
Thanks for sharing
I just did one. The alignment was perfect, so i opted for the ball joint.
You prob already know, but the castle nut on those is not the issue. Those zip right off and you can pry the control arm down easy peasy. The issue on those is the pinch bolt holding the ball joint into the spindle like you mentioned.
Yes, you're right. I'm pretty sure this one would have come out fine, but if I broke that pinch bolt it would have turned a small job into an annoying nightmare. Instead I carefully marked and replaced that top camber adjustment bolt exactly the way it was. I also removed the speed sensor to avoid damaging it.
Always invaluable advice coming from you. Thanks much!
Thank you dude I did that wrong.. now I can do it right
Yes it's possible to do this with the other wheel on the ground. As you jack up the opposite side, the sway bar gives a sigh of relief and those holes line up much more easily. Easy is good, ha ha.
@@spelunkerd agreed
And now you need a alignment
Real smart of you
A tape measure and level and a few things f things called brain cells, and u can get very close. And ur camber changing on a car isn’t a major concern
In addition to marking the bolts and the tape measure , I just bought one of those camber level gauges on eBay for under $ 10.00 . I don't expect it to be perfect . But I can probably get close , especially on a beater with used tires .
You're right about alignment. Even though I marked the upper camber bolt head and exactly reproduced that position, it is not easy to get closer than a few degrees of accuracy. With a 19mm bolt head, 3 degrees is 0.5mm of rotational movement, which is about the limit of what can be reproduced without alignment. We're even assuming the factory alignment ten years ago is still accurate, and that the tech who does new alignment actually cares about results. Two approach options are there because neither is ideal. If you live in the rust belt, the risk and effort of ball joint removal is dramatically higher.
@spelunkerd A very diplomatic answer to a rude comment. Well done. 👍