Miter & Fixture Top Tube and Down Tube - Mini Town Bicycle 06
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- In this video we start off by 3D printing some phase blocks. Then I weld up a quick release nut. We end things off by mitering and fixturing the top tube and down tube to the low cost frame jig.
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Artist CZcams - / @uniq5724
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It's cool to see it come together. Interesting also how our videos covering the same steps are so similar in some ways and so different in others. Specifically the comment "oops, I almost used the wrong holesaw. I've done that before!"
So many great ideas, love the jig, thanks for sharing and showing the process with all the success and 'learning' moments.
What a treat to end the week on. Thanks Steve, have a great weekend.
The quick release nut is a great idea
I've followed all of your projects and love the channel. This and Wintergaten are the best content going on CZcams.
You'd probably enjoy Clickspring's channel too.
loving these weekly episodes.
Just found your channel....Exactly what I was looking for......Thank you
These kinds of operations need a spot welder. They are super easy to make from old microwave oven transformers and some bits and bobs. Also, cutting paste makes for better coolant than oil when it comes to saw toothed implements like the hole cutter. Kinda like you'd use wax on a wood saw.
Hole saws are adjusted in the factory to the final spec by bending the teeth to the exact size. Once you start using them, aside from general wear and tear, they also start bending inwards, especially, if you cut oblong cuts. Old machining manuals always recommend starting the cut at a shallower angle (the pierce) or by filling a flat where the first pass can grab and lessen the strain.
IRL, as far as i know, these are expected to get something like 10 12 cuts before they go out of spec. Not the most reliable of tools.
IMO, you should get a boring head, and use it conjunction with a smaller cutter. I know, it's a hassle to do something like this, but if you want precision, it's kinda like the old lathe adage, you drill the hole, you bore it to finish.
a start would be to switch to an annular cutter
Your fixture is working well for you.
Kevin Hornbuckle so far it’s working out alright. 👍
I’m very glad that you came back to CZcams with such an interesting project!!!
👍👍👍
Awesome video as always man, loving all the content lately! Glad you’re back! :)
yes! gimme more!
здорово! мне нравится))))
have you ever built any recumbent bike frames , if so would like to see video on that for sure, you have tons of great learning videos on here, thank you for doing this channel
Do a search for “Ganter knurled quick release nut”. I only have this as a ready-made product, but it might be possible to make one from a brass nut even without a mill? Not sure.
Great to have 3D printer. Why did you leave 8020 tubes and go to wood??
Learned to buysarrette instead of lennox. Thanks
I think your getting faster at building frames especially after this one. I think you will find many uses for the 3D machine.
Pushyhog The wood jig is basically a design experiment. Was curious how far I could push the cheap end. So far it’s working out well. But if you got the money and resources, alu or steel is always the better choice.
Thanks for another great video. What if you turn the “nut in half” 180 degrees, would it sit the other way? You can turn a nut in from the both sides off the hole!
Dear Sir, I like your channel, it is the best! How you print the big technical drawing on paper? With a plotter?
Best regards from Germany.
If you flip your QR nut upside down it may index in a better spot.
Still love your channel, but thank God you sped through the top tube! How was the pizza?
Richard H pizza came out great!
Are the phase blocks solid? If not, what style & percentage infill did you use? They seem pretty sturdy.
One was at 50% and the other at 20%. After using them though, I ended up putting them in the vise for some hand filing on the tube. I think future ones will be 100% infill for that reason.
@@PithyBikes keep it a little below 100%, slicers can get weird when using exact 100%. When I need solid I stick to 97-99% just as good and you do not get too much plastic squeezed into your object
Would it be better to mark the tube with a felt tip pen+ruler in the metal clamp to align it back with the saw? (Instead of the 3D-print)
Unbias that could work but might be a bit less precise and fiddly than fitting a face up to a face.
Hole saws seem to the norm for cutting tube. Does anyone use annular cutters instead? They do a very nice job on thick steel, but maybe not so nice with thin tube. Just a question I have been wondering about especially since a mill is available.
I have seen them used before.
One question...
It is possible to build a frame with pure stainless steel inox tube ?
freeland 44 technically, you could build a bike with anything so yes. There are bikes out there built with stainless steel tubes