you have to prep it better that is why your paint is chipping. chrome is one of the hardest surfaces to paint. You have to start off with something gritty like 120 and make sure you really scrub and after getting something smoother, and so on and so on. until you are happy with the results. The point of sanding the surface is not just to make it smooth, but to give the paint a surface to stick on to. If you get runny paint is because you are spraying uneven coats or you did not sand correctly.
I used 2 cans of high build primer which evened out all the little bumps, 2 cans of the color matching paint and 2 cans of clean and it came out really nice and smooth with a nice gloss.
4WDmania nothing so far but I accidentally rubbed a small area off on the turn signal light because I put the bumper on without the paint being totally cured. but it has like 8 coats of clear so I'm assuming I won't have any chips but idk
Hey man this is on one of your older videos on the 99 Silverado, but where did you find the headlight switch and cargo lamp bulbs because I can't find them anywhere. I already got the AC control and instrument cluster led's but just not the head light switch bulbs.
Couple suggestions: scuff the heck out of the plastic with 120 grit, degrease with your choice of degreaser, then use adhesion promoter, not just primer. Adhesion promoter is in fact a primer for plastic. My question is which brand rattle cans did you use? If you say Duplicolor, that right there is the problem. The allure of "factory matched" colors got me, too. I painted my S10 after the clear coat was destroyed by high altitude UV rays...and the paint job the small town shop did sucked any way...it all peeled up. I haven't fixed it as of yet, because I'm aiming to simply get a new hood and start over. I've found Rustoleum rattle cans hold up the best while Duplicolor fails surprisingly quickly. Take a look at the gray painted portions on my Suburban. That's all Rustoleum. No clear coat. No wet sanding. The black stuff is, however, Duplicolor's rattle can Bedliner. That stuff I swear by. I've been using for nearly 20 years on my trucks. Rustoleum's rattle can bedliners gave me woes. Interesting note is Duplicolor now has a clear version of said bedliner in a can. I'm interested to try that out; perhaps on my grill. No paint holds up to abuse on the grill of any truck driven in the mountains. Rattle can bedliner just might, though.
You are spot on I used all duplicolor products. I used self etching primer on the bumper cap. Painting just isn't for me. Don't have the patience. thanks for the tips.
Sometimes you can get a factory package that has a body color painted grille . . . But NOT 2015-16-17 F-150 (of course) Although they DO have a LOT of different grilles, that's for sure. So now, in addition to $50k for the truck, I need to buy a standard black (or grey) plastic grille, prep it properly -THAT IS THE KEY- which takes A LOT OF TIME. Finally, 2 coats primer, then at least 2 coats of white to cover the black grille that came in a box, to replace the chrome one that came with the truck, NOW, remove the chrome grille, PLUS the Ford oval emblem and then . . . . But wait . . . maybe, just maybe, somebody will back into the grille and breakit up in a parking lot. Hmmm . . . insurance paying for a new grille? I never thought of that. Professionally repaired at a body shop, too. Hmmmm . . . . . . . . . .
LMAO that's kinda mint. I have the same truck and an Impala LS, same body style. Both look great my dude.
it looks nice!
you have to prep it better that is why your paint is chipping. chrome is one of the hardest surfaces to paint. You have to start off with something gritty like 120 and make sure you really scrub and after getting something smoother, and so on and so on. until you are happy with the results. The point of sanding the surface is not just to make it smooth, but to give the paint a surface to stick on to. If you get runny paint is because you are spraying uneven coats or you did not sand correctly.
I used 2 cans of high build primer which evened out all the little bumps, 2 cans of the color matching paint and 2 cans of clean and it came out really nice and smooth with a nice gloss.
clear*
White .Out. did you have any problems with the paint chipping of from poor adhesion?
4WDmania nothing so far but I accidentally rubbed a small area off on the turn signal light because I put the bumper on without the paint being totally cured. but it has like 8 coats of clear so I'm assuming I won't have any chips but idk
I will probably end up having mine professionally painted because I don't know what I'm doing lol
4WDmania same lol
Hey man this is on one of your older videos on the 99 Silverado, but where did you find the headlight switch and cargo lamp bulbs because I can't find them anywhere. I already got the AC control and instrument cluster led's but just not the head light switch bulbs.
I replaced them with 3mm LEDs
Did you remove the bumper assembly or paint “on-truck”?
You take the guards off the bumper before painting them?
Yes I did
Did you try wet sanding the paint and polishing it to remove the texture.
I did not. I was reading online and it seemed the the general consensus was to not sand the base coat.
Did you open your headlights or just tint the corners from the outside?
Jake LbZ I opened them and tinted the reflector inside
Couple suggestions: scuff the heck out of the plastic with 120 grit, degrease with your choice of degreaser, then use adhesion promoter, not just primer. Adhesion promoter is in fact a primer for plastic. My question is which brand rattle cans did you use? If you say Duplicolor, that right there is the problem. The allure of "factory matched" colors got me, too. I painted my S10 after the clear coat was destroyed by high altitude UV rays...and the paint job the small town shop did sucked any way...it all peeled up. I haven't fixed it as of yet, because I'm aiming to simply get a new hood and start over. I've found Rustoleum rattle cans hold up the best while Duplicolor fails surprisingly quickly. Take a look at the gray painted portions on my Suburban. That's all Rustoleum. No clear coat. No wet sanding. The black stuff is, however, Duplicolor's rattle can Bedliner. That stuff I swear by. I've been using for nearly 20 years on my trucks. Rustoleum's rattle can bedliners gave me woes. Interesting note is Duplicolor now has a clear version of said bedliner in a can. I'm interested to try that out; perhaps on my grill. No paint holds up to abuse on the grill of any truck driven in the mountains. Rattle can bedliner just might, though.
You are spot on I used all duplicolor products. I used self etching primer on the bumper cap. Painting just isn't for me. Don't have the patience. thanks for the tips.
Painting is a two sided coin for sure, yes. I have to be in the mood for it, but once I'm done I usually like my results...except when I don't.
Sometimes you can get a factory package that has a body color painted grille . . . But NOT 2015-16-17 F-150 (of course) Although they DO have a LOT of different grilles, that's for sure. So now, in addition to $50k for the truck, I need to buy a standard black (or grey) plastic grille, prep it properly -THAT IS THE KEY- which takes A LOT OF TIME. Finally, 2 coats primer, then at least 2 coats of white to cover the black grille that came in a box, to replace the chrome one that came with the truck, NOW, remove the chrome grille, PLUS the Ford oval emblem and then . . . . But wait . . . maybe, just maybe, somebody will back into the grille and breakit up in a parking lot. Hmmm . . . insurance paying for a new grille? I never thought of that. Professionally repaired at a body shop, too. Hmmmm . . . . . . . . . .
What headlights are those?? Thanks!
Xavier Vesga those are the stock headlights I baked them open and smoked the reflector
If you remove them it will make the truck look so much taller, and yes nfab steps are junk unless done at like a legit shop
I know! I'm just in denial... lol